Papeete to Lautoka

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Known as the “Sacred Island,” Raiatea is a fascinating haunt for archaeologists and historians as it’s one of the islands in the Pacific where Polynesian culture can trace its roots. Visitors will find many of the older Polynesian structures still in place and are fascinating places to explore. In the 16th century, Raiatea developed a powerful cult dedicated to Oro the God of War and built a large meeting ground, the Taputaputea Marae, which is still intact. Human sacrifice was practiced until around the middle of the 18th century and visitors should look for the sacrificial stone. Several tour operators run visits to the marae (ancient temples) along with some degree of informed commentary—although in fairness Polynesian storytelling can embellish things a little. The Faaroa River is the only navigable waterway in French Polynesia and it can be traveled by powerboat or outrigger canoe. Running through the Faaroa Gorge it passes some spectacular scenery with steep-walled jungle foliage holding dozens of bird species and wild hibiscus. Trekking up Mount Temehani, a well-known landmark that’s said to be Oro’s birthplace, is relatively demanding. Keep a lookout for the rare, five-petal tiare apetahi. Said to be impossible to grow anywhere else, this white, indigenous flower can only be found above 1,300 feet (396 meters). Look, but don’t touch. It’s against the law to pick them.

Simply saying the name Bora Bora is usually enough to induce gasps of jealousy, as images of milky blue water, sparkling white beaches and casually leaning palm trees immediately spring to mind. The imagination doesn’t lie, either, and if you visit, you’ll soon realise this island is every bit as gorgeous as you ever imagined. Thatched wooden huts stand out over shallow, sparkling seawater, with vivid fish swirling just below. Soak up the sun, scuba dive, or simply revel in the opulent luxury of one of the island’s many magnificent resorts. If blissful inactivity doesn’t appeal, then get active, and hike the greenery of the sharp Mount Pahia.

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If you have ever dreamt up your ideal island holiday, we suspect it goes something like this: Soapy blue seas? Check. Sparkling white beaches? Check. Thatched wooden huts, gently sloping palm trees and kaleidoscopic marine life? Check, check and check. And yet, even by ticking every box, first time viewing of Bora Bora still beggars belief.This tropical hideaway less than 12 m2 in the heart of the South Pacific has been toping travel wish lists for years. Long considered the realm of honeymooners – spectacularly romantic sunsets are a speciality – Bora Bora is not just for wandering with your love. If the prismatic shades of blue of the world’s most beautiful lagoon do not fill you up, then perhaps underwater scooters and aqua Safaris will charge your batteries. If exploring Bora Bora’s lush hinterland is more your glass of tequila sunrise, then trips around the island (often stopping off at the celebrity haunt Bloody Mary Restaurant & Bar) are a must.Bora Bora’s peaceful ambience has not always been the case. The island was a US supply base, known as “Operation Bobcat” during WWII. During this time, Bora Bora was home to nine ships, 20,000 tons of equipment and nearly 7,000 men. Eight massive 7-inch naval cannons were installed around the island, all but one of which is still in place. Although little is known of the history of the island, it is known that Bora Bora was called Vava’u in ancient times. This supports belief that the island was colonised by Tongans prior to French annex in 1888.

Life is laid back on Rarotonga, the most populous of the Cook Islands, but the residents are still an active bunch. Though there are plenty of white sandy beaches on which to laze—and people do, with plenty of napping— locals love to get out and move. Join them in snorkeling, diving, riding—bikes, horses, scooters—fishing, bush walking, and playing squash and tennis. Another popular, if odd, and favorite activity is lining up along the sea wall adjacent to the airport’s runway to be jetblasted.

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Life is laid back on Rarotonga the most populous of the Cook Islands but the residents are still an active bunch. Though there are plenty of white sandy beaches on which to laze—and people do with plenty of napping— locals love to get out and move. Join them in snorkeling diving riding—bikes horses scooters—fishing bush walking and playing squash and tennis. Another popular if odd and favorite activity is lining up along the sea wall adjacent to the airport’s runway to be jetblasted.

Even high praise like the ‘world’s most beautiful island’ from Lonely Planet’s co-founder, Tony Wheeler, won’t prepare you for the intoxicating intensity of the coal blue ocean, the glow of the pure white sand, and the soothing ripple of the palm-tree forests at incredible Aitutaki. Breathless romance hangs thick in the air here, especially when a riot of purples, reds and oranges are spreading across the sky, accompanying the sun’s descent each evening. It wasn’t until 1789 that Europeans discovered this island haven, with the HMS Bounty’s crew arriving, just a few weeks before a mutiny tore them apart. The Europeans were beaten to the islands, however, by the streamlined wooden canoes of the Polynesian settlers, who arrived around 900AD. While Western missionaries would eventually visit to spread Christianity to the island – evidenced by the white, coral-encrusted walls of the many churches – their efforts to repress the people’s deep love of communal singing and dancing ultimately failed, and music forms a key component of the islanders’ culture to this day.The beaches here are flawless, and swaying in a hammock, suspended between leaning palm trees, as the ocean gently ruffles the sand nearby, feels gloriously indulgent. Aitutaki Lagoon is a huge aquamarine pool of water, alive with a kaleidoscopic swirl of tropical fish, which lurk just below the surface. You may even be lucky enough to spot turtles padding across the sand, scraping themselves towards the open ocean.The snorkelling opportunities here, and on One Foot Island – where you’ll want to acquire the badge of honour of having your passport stamped with the island’s iconic huge footprint – are sublime. Don’t miss the tiny island of Moturakau either, which is crammed full of exotic birds and crabs, who have dominion over the island’s tangled, jungle terrain. 

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When Lonely Planet co-founder describes somewhere as “the world’s most beautiful island” you can be sure that you are in for a treat. Incredible Aitutaki, inspiring Aitutaki, unbelievable, idyllic and unimaginable, there are simply not enough superlatives to describe quite how amazing Aitutaki is.Brought to light in 1779 by Captain Bligh, the Mutiny on the Bounty meant that Aitutaki has something of a bloodthirsty history. While Europeans missionaries eventually settled on the island in the 19th century (evidenced by the white, coral-encrusted walls of the many churches) the island’s Polynesian history dates to around 900AD. Traditional songs and dances from this period still exist (although Christian hymns, known as “imene metua” are also popular), and are performed by islanders with gusto and much pride.The island is part of the Cook Islands, one of the most secluded and romantic archipelagos in the world. With its powder white sand, warm turquoise waters and sense of casual luxury, it is easy to see why the island has earnt itself the moniker of honeymooner’s island. However, there is much more to Aitutaki than just fun in the sun. With a reef that completely encompasses a large turquoise lagoon, Aitutaki is considered one of the most spectacular diving and snorkelling destinations in the world. Added to the tropical excitement is that when entering the main village via Zodiac along a narrow channel – travellers will be greeted by a traditional and customary warrior challenge.

The low-lying atoll of Palmerston is inhabited by three families, all descendants of William Marsters (1831-1899). Members of the community are known to greet visitors and guide small boats into the lagoon through a maze of coral reef. Once ashore, the whole community generally turns out to meet visitors as it is a rare occurrence. The island’s highlights include a church, the oldest house, the cemetery, the school, the underground gardens and “Duke’s Pool,” inviting for a swim or snorkel. In the lagoon’s waters it is possible to find colorful reef-fish, sea cucumbers, rays, and sea turtles. Overhead there is birdlife including tropicbirds, boobies, noddies, frigatebirds and terns.

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The low-lying atoll of Palmerston is inhabited by three families all descendants of William Marsters (1831-1899). Members of the community are known to greet visitors and guide small boats and Zodiacs into the lagoon through a maze of coral reef to reach the only inhabited islet –commonly called “Home”. Once ashore the whole community generally turns out to meet visitors as it is a rare occurrence. The island’s highlights include a church the oldest house the cemetery the school the underground gardens and “Duke’s Pool ” inviting for a swim or snorkel. In the lagoon’s waters it is possible to find colorful reef-fish sea cucumbers rays and sea turtles. Overhead there is birdlife including tropicbirds boobies noddies frigatebirds and terns.

Niue, or “The Rock” as it is known to its inhabitants, is one of the largest raised coral atolls in the Pacific, an island type named “Makatea” after an island in French Polynesia. Niue’s coast lends itself to exploration with stops at points of historical and scenic interest including opportunities for snorkeling, exploring limestone caves, and swimming in Niue’s crystal clear water.

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Alofi, the capital of Niue island, or “The Rock” as it is known to its inhabitants. The island has a population of only around 600 inhabitants, giving it the modest title of being the second smallest capital “city” in the world. The island does boast an international airport but despite this, tourism is not as rife here as in some of the other, better known Polynesian idylls.Niue has a distinctive beauty all of its own. Think less of the sweeping, romantic beaches for which Polynesia is famous and more sheltered rocky coves, jewel-like reef pools, headlands, tropical forest, coconut plantations and neat, colourful villages scattered throughout the island’s 100 sq.m. The crystal clear waters and limestone caves of beautiful Alofi Bay offer spectacular snorkelling opportunities.The island is sometimes referred to as its ancient name of Savage Island. Niueans’ nature of worship was in the past joyful and ecstatic. Islanders would receive the power of the divine by dancing around a campfire. These ceremonies, called tugi e mama (lighting the fires) were especially used before going to war, when a priest or shaman would light a fire and call out to the gods to come to the aid of the troops who were about to enter in battle. As one of Polynesia’s poorer islands, today Niue has no organised religion, although islanders are incredibly spiritual. Thus, there are no real places of worship but rather areas of land – known as taugas – marked out and reserved solely for the breeding of birds and crabs.

With a population of 6,000, Neiafu is the capital city and the second largest municipality in the Polynesian nation of Tonga (a 169-island archipelago in the South Pacific). The city is situated in a deep- water harbor (Port of Refuge) on the south coast of Vava͛u, the main island of the Vava͛u archipelago in northern Tonga. The waters of this region are known for their clarity and beauty, and the area attracts many humpback whales between June and November. A popular destination in Neiafu is the Ene͛io Botanical Garden, a bird sanctuary that promotes the survival of exotic and native bird species as well as supports and conserves a diverse array of plant life. The island’s city life can be experienced at the numerous cafes and restaurants that welcome visitors.

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With a population of 6 000 Neiafu is the capital of the Vava’u Group and the second largest municipality in the Polynesian nation of Tonga (a 169-island archipelago in the South Pacific). The city is situated next to a deep- water harbor (Port of Refuge) on the south coast of Vava’u the main island of the Vava’u archipelago in northern Tonga. The waters of this region are known for their clarity and beauty and the area attracts many humpback whales between June and November. A popular destination in Neiafu is the ‘Ene’io Botanical Garden a bird sanctuary that promotes the survival of exotic and native bird species as well as supports and conserves a diverse array of plant life.

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Leleuvia is a small low-lying island southeast of Ovalau with a length of barely 500 meters. Situated between the chiefly island of Bau, Moturiki and Ovalau, almost equidistant from Ovalau and the Central Eastern coast of Viti Levu, this lush, green island hosts a small resort. An easily accessible reef with many colorful reef fish 10 meters off of Leleuvia’s western beach invites to be explored. Resident sea kraits are often seen resting ashore north of the small pier. Despite its small size and the resort on its southern side, the island still has quite an extensive forest of tamanu (Alexandrian laurel), lantern trees, fish-poison trees and beach gardenia. There are also local clusters of beach hibiscus, beach heliotrope and Pacific rosewood where Sacred Kingfishers, Orange-breasted Honeyeaters, and Pacific Swallows have been recorded.

North of Nadi through sugarcane plantations and past the Sabeto Mountains is Lautoka, nicknamed the Sugar City for the local agriculture and its big processing mill. With a population of around 50,000, it’s the only city besides Suva and, like the capital, has a pleasant waterfront. It’s the sailing point for Blue Lagoon and Beachcomber Cruises but is otherwise unremarkable for tourists, itself having few hotels and fewer good restaurants. Locals recommend the city as a less-expensive place to shop for clothing, but note that it can take as long as 45 minutes to drive here. Legend has it that Lautoka acquired its name when two chiefs engaged in combat and one hit the other with a spear. He proclaimed “lau toka” (spear hit) and thus the future town was named.

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It doesn’t get much sweeter than arriving on the sun-soaked shores of the Sugar City. Fiji’s second-biggest settlement opens up a world of blissful beaches and turquoise seascapes while its dense jungle lures the adventurous deep into its embrace. Experience rich Fijian life and see dramatic displays like warrior dances and remarkable local practices like firewalks which kick up burning embers into the night’s sky. Legend says the city took its name after two chiefs faced each other in a duel. A spear pierced one of the chiefs leading to the shout of ‘lau-toka!’ or ‘spear hit!’ Sugar is Lautoka’s main trade but its botanical gardens are a sweet insight into the tropical plant life that thrives here – from pearl white lilies to tall fragrant orchids. Explore temples charming cafes and mills – or barter for some of the juiciest mangoes you’ll ever taste at the city’s lively market. You’ll only be able to resist the beaches for so long and it doesn’t get much more stunning than the Blue Lagoon – a heavenly blend of woven together turquoise shades. Remote wild and unspoiled these are some of the best tropical beaches in the world. There’s more rejuvenating relaxation at the mineral-rich mud pools and spas fuelled by the volcanic activity below. Savala Island is a teardrop of sand offshore and another beautiful place to wander with the soft powder between your toes – along sandy spits that peter out into the water. Or swim and snorkel among its envied reefs thronging with fish life.