Greenland: North Atlantic Odyssey

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The beautiful fjord system of Prince Christian Sound is a waterway in southern Greenland that connects the Labrador Sea and the Irminger Sea. Sixty miles long and narrows to only 1,500 feet wide at some points. It separates the mainland from the islands of the Cape Farewell Archipelago and is surrounded by steep granite mountains as high as 3,937 feet.

The largest town in southern Greenland, Qaqortoq has been inhabited since prehistoric times. Upon arrival in this charming southern Greenland enclave, it’s easy to see why. Qaqortoq rises quite steeply over the fjord system around the city, offering breath-taking panoramic vistas of the surrounding mountains, deep, blue sea, Lake Tasersuag, icebergs in the bay, and pastoral backcountry. Although the earliest signs of ancient civilization in Qaqortoq date back 4,300 years, Qaqortoq is known to have been inhabited by Norse and Inuit settlers in the 10th and 12th centuries, and the present-day town was founded in 1774. In the years since, Qaqortoq has evolved into a seaport and trading hub for fish and shrimp processing, tanning, fur production, and ship maintenance and repair.

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The scenic colonial town of Qaqortoq is easily seen on foot. Walk to the town square with its gorgeous fountain built of Igaliku rocks. Colorful houses encircle the square and Our Saviour’s Church, built in 1832, is nearby. There are many works of art that have been chiseled into the rocks at the sculpture park called “Stone and Man,” and the local museum full of Nordic artifacts is definitely worth a visit. Another point of interest is the fishing wharf where fresh and dried fish is sold.

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With a population of 1,600, Narsaq is the youngest town of Greenland and was founded in 1959. The mountain behind the town is full of coveted minerals and is a major attractions for rock pickers and geologists including the rare mineral, Tugtupit which has only been found in one or two places around the world.

Nanortalik lies in a scenic area surrounded by steep mountainsides and is Greenland’s tenth-largest and most southerly town with less than 1500 inhabitants. The town’s name means the “place of polar bears”, which refers to the polar bears that used to be seen floating offshore on summer’s ice floes. Nanortalik has an excellent open-air museum that gives a broad picture of the region from Inuit times to today. Part of the exhibition is a summer hunting camp, where Inuit in traditional clothing describe aspects of their ancestor’s customs and lifestyle.

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The southernmost town in Greenland located at the mouth of the Tasermuit Fjord, Nanortalik shares space with polar bears who live and hunt on the sea outside of town. Vertical cliffs and steep peaks characterize the area around Nanortalik and Ketil Mountain at 6,562 feet has one of the highest climbing walls with Greenland’s only natural forest just 25 miles away. The locals are charming and friendly and known for their choir singing, which you may end up hearing.

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This 43-mile (70km) long fjord opens into the Labrador Sea and separates two long mountainous peninsulas. Nanortalik Island is located at the mouth of the fjord. It is a popular spot for climbers and kayakers and is the starting point for many challenging treks.

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St. Anthony is a popular whale-watching destination. Located at the northern tip of Newfoundland, icebergs appear along Newfoundland Iceberg Alley and the rugged coastline, there is a vast wilderness of valleys and lake-dotted mountains, and the local fresh seafood is among the best.

Acclaimed for its unearthly landscape, Woody Point is probably as close to Mars as you will ever get in this lifetime. Situated on the west coast of the island, the Tablelands behind Woody Point in the Gros Morne National Park are composed of peridotite — like much of the surface of Mars — and  NASA, the Canadian Space Agency, plus others are studying this unique land form searching for insights into possible bacterial life on the red planet. The story of the Tablelands earned Gros Morne its World Heritage Site status from UNESCO in 2010, and the area remains a geological wonder, showcasing a time when the continents of Africa and North America collided. When the plates struck 485 million years ago, the peridotite was pushed to the surface, and remained above sea level. The rock lacks the nutrients to sustain plant life, thus giving the Tablelands a barren, isolated appearance. As the name suggests, the flat topped mountains dwarf the tiny village (population 281!), yet Woody Point has retained its character and the historic houses and buildings dating from 1870 have been beautifully maintained.

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Bonne Bay and Woody Point are part of the Gros Morne National Park, whose ancient landscape is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Bonne Bay has two sections – Inner Bonne Bay and Outer Bonne Bay. Inner Bonne Bay has two arms with wooded coves and beaches. Outer Bonne Bay is the entrance to the Bonne Bay fjord. This bay was carved out approximately 10,000 years ago and is an area full of wildlife – moose and caribou, Arctic hare and ptarmigan.

Havre St. Pierre is a tiny seaside port on the north shore of the Saint Lawrence River in Quebec. It was settled in 1857 by Acadians from the Magdalen Island, and still today locals speak a dialect more similar to Acadian French than to Quebec French. It was originally called Saint-Pierre-de-la-Pointe-aux-Esquimaux until 1927, when it was officially shortened to Havre St Pierre. Until recently the local economy relied mainly on fishing and lumbering, today it is mainly a titanium ore-transhipment port. Nearby is one of the world’s most amazing natural phenomena – the Mingan Archipelago. They are the largest group of erosional monoliths in Canada, and were declared a Nation Park in 1984. These limestone monoliths have formed over thousands of years by wave action, strong winds and seasonal freezing and thawing. The result is a unique set of large limestone sculptures.

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Situated at the northern end of the St. Lawrence River, Havre St. Pierre is home to the eerie limestone structures of the Mingan Archipelago National Park Reserve. Tourism contributes hugely to the economy of this small town noted for the unique variety of flora and fauna found here such as the rare Mingan Thistle and puffins. Excellent fishing is also found here,made up of snow crab, scallops, lobster and salmon.

Québec City’s alluring setting atop Cape Diamond (Cap Diamant) evokes a past of high adventure, military history, and exploration. This French-speaking capital city is the only walled city north of Mexico. Visitors come for the delicious and inventive cuisine, the remarkable historical continuity, and to share in the seasonal exuberance of the largest Francophone population outside France.The historic heart of this community is the Old City (Vieux-Québec), comprising the part of Upper Town (Haute-Ville) surrounded by walls and Lower Town (Basse-Ville), which spreads out at the base of the hill from Place Royale. Many sets of staircases and the popular funicular link the top of the hill with the bottom. Cobblestone streets, horse-drawn carriages, and elaborate cathedrals here are charming in all seasons. The Old City earned recognition as an official UNESCO World Heritage site in 1985, thanks largely to city planners who managed to update and preserve the 400-year-old buildings and attractions without destroying what made them worth preserving. The most familiar icon of the city, Fairmont Château Frontenac, is set on the highest point in Upper Town, where it holds court over the entire city.Sitting proudly above the confluence of the St. Lawrence and St. Charles rivers, the city’s famous military fortification, La Citadelle, built in the early 19th century, remains the largest of its kind in North America. In summer, visitors should try to catch the Changing of the Guard, held every morning at 10 am; you can get much closer to the guards here than at Buckingham Palace in London.Enchanting as it is, the Old City is just a small part of the true Québec City experience. Think outside the walls and explore St-Roch, a downtown hot spot, which has artsy galleries, foodie haunts, and a bustling square. Cruise the Grande-Allée and avenue Cartier to find a livelier part of town dotted with nightclubs and fun eateries. Or while away the hours in St-Jean-Baptiste, a neighborhood with trendy shops and hipster hangouts.

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A focal point of French culture and one of North America’s oldest and most beautiful cities, Quebec City sits above the St. Lawrence River on a rocky spur with 328-foot cliffs. This French-speaking city was established in 1608 with the only fortified city walls remaining in America north of Mexico, and declared a UNESCO World Heritage City. The Old Town is packed with museums, cobblestone streets and mansard-roofed houses begging to be explored. Other historic attractions include the Fairmont Chateau Frontenac, Notre Dame Basilica, Battlefields Park and Terrasse Dufferin.

Canada’s most diverse metropolis, Montréal, is an island city that favors style and elegance over order or even prosperity, a city where past and present intrude on each other daily. In some ways it resembles Vienna—well past its peak of power and glory, perhaps, yet still vibrant and grand.But don’t get the wrong idea. Montréal has always had a bit of an edge. During Prohibition, thirsty Americans headed north to the city on the St. Lawrence for booze, music, and a good time, and people still come for the same things. Summer festivals celebrate everything from comedy and French music and culture to beer and fireworks, and, of course, jazz. And on those rare weeks when there isn’t a planned event, the party continues. Clubs and sidewalk cafés are abuzz from late afternoon to the early hours of the morning. And Montréal is a city that knows how to mix it up even when it’s 20 below zero. Rue St-Denis is almost as lively on a Saturday night in January as it is in July, and the festival Montréal en Lumière, or Montréal Highlights, enlivens the dreary days of February with concerts, balls, and fine food.Montréal takes its name from Parc du Mont-Royal, a stubby plug of tree-covered igneous rock that rises 764 feet above the surrounding cityscape. Although its height is unimpressive, “the Mountain” forms one of Canada’s finest urban parks, and views from the Chalet du Mont-Royal atop the hill provide an excellent orientation to the city’s layout and major landmarks.Old Montréal is home to museums, the municipal government, and the magnificent Basilique Notre-Dame-de-Montréal within its network of narrow, cobblestone streets. Although Montréal’s centre-ville, or Downtown, bustles like many other major cities on the surface, it’s active below street level as well, in the so-called Underground City–-the underground levels of shopping malls and food courts connected by pedestrian tunnels and the city’s subway system, or métro. Residential Plateau Mont-Royal and trendy neighborhoods are abuzz with restaurants, nightclubs, art galleries, and cafés. The greener areas of town are composed of the Parc du Mont-Royal and the Jardin Botanique.

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Montreal is full of interesting architecture and is considered by many to be the creative capital of Canada. Named a UNESCO City of Design, Montreal attractions include Basilique Notre-Dame, Stade Olympique, Canal de Lachine, Old Montreal, and Habitat 67. Enjoy a meal at one of the terraced cafes of Plateau Mont-Royal and make sure you try Kamouraska lamb, Arctic char and poutine.