Civitavecchia to Monte Carlo

Naples, in the Campania region, is Italy’s third largest city. Its claim to fame is the spectacular location along one of the world’s most splendid bays, backed by the perfect cone of Mount Vesuvius. In addition to its beautiful setting, Naples’ surprises with other outstanding attractions such as the Royal Palace, San Carlos Opera House, the impressive National Archaeological Museum and the Castel Nuovo, dating from the 13th-century. The city’s central area is best explored on foot. Chaotic traffic conditions make driving around the city a very frustrating experience. Naples provides a convenient starting point for trips to such favored destinations as Pompeii, Herculaneum and Mount Vesuvius. The Isle of Capri can be reached via a 45-minute hydrofoil service. The region of Campania was home to Greeks settlers some 300 years before Rome was founded. Pompeii, too, was a Greek town before being conquered by the Romans during the 5th century BC. It was under the Romans that Pompeii flourished and grew prosperous. When Mount Vesuvius erupted in 79 AD, the population of 20,000 was wiped out, but dozens of buildings were preserved under layers of cinder more than 20 feet deep. The most important finds from Pompeii are displayed in Naples’ National Archaeological Museum. A visit here will no doubt enhance a visit to ancient Pompeii.

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Raw, unvarnished and refreshingly authentic, Naples is Italy’s third-largest city and a place like nowhere else. They say ‘see Naples and die,’ and you’ll soon discover the unique energy and exuberance of this sprawling city, which balances urban grit and timeless wonder like no other. Set on the breathtaking Bay of Naples, with the looming cone of Mount Vesuvius puncturing the blue sky close by, it can take a little time for Naples to work its way under your skin – but once you attune to its rhythms, you’ll be hopelessly under its spell. Naples’ densely packed, towering streets lend a claustrophobic, canyon-like feel to the UNESCO World Heritage Site city centre. Here, overflowing market stalls sell handcrafted goods along tight alleyways, and hidden courtyards serve up glasses of glowing Aperol Spritz. The smell of freshly-baked focaccias and drying washing hang over the thoroughly lived-in streets, while stunning baroque churches rise out of nowhere. Wherever you wander, this is a city sprinkled with immense cultural treasures and artistry – from palaces to fortresses and ruins from antiquity. Unpretentious food, made from simple, flavourful ingredients is a feature of Naples’ revered cuisine, and the birthplace of pizza is the perfect city to taste fire-baked, shockingly under-priced, margherita. Wash it down with a bottle of wine perfected by the fertile slopes of Vesuvius. A sharp espresso is always welcome to punctuate your time exploring. Mount Vesuvius’s destructive impulses destroyed and conserved the ancient city of Pompeii in the blink of an eye, and the town is one of the best-preserved Roman ruins in the world. Naples’ National Archaeological Museum displays many magnificent finds should you wish to stay in the city. The Amalfi coast’s immeasurable beauty also stretches out close by, while Capri’s glorious island glamorously luxuriates just offshore.

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A summer escape for Rome’s historic elite the stacked waterfront of Porto Santo Stefano is a secluded taste of idyllic southern Tuscany. Physically closer to Rome than Florence the city is strung to Italy’s western coast by two sandy harnesses and sits on the unqiue peninsula of Monte Argentario – which was once an island. Flamboyant pink flamingos and herons stroll through the encased lagoon while Porto Santo Stefano’s waterfront hums with clinking cafes and strolling visitors. The luxury yachts in the harbour show that Porto Santo Stefano has lost none of its luxury appeals and with beaches wild hikes and waterfront beauty it continues to lure visitors to this secluded escape. Known for its fishing and cuisine – which is based around heavy use of the Tyrrhenian Sea’s juicy bounty. Stroll to Piazza dei Rioni for a dripping lemon gelato or wander the streets noticing the lingering World War II damage – the city was heavily bombed during the conflict. Fortunately the historic star-shaped Spanish fort was spared and it still watches out resolutely over the waters. Rugged coastline falls to secluded beaches with a wilder unkempt charm. Sail the coves – seeing cascading olive groves – or island-hop to Giglio and Giannuti which lie 12 miles from shore and can be seen from the monastery topped Argentario mountain. On the other side of the promontory you’ll find Porto Ercole – where the lifeless body of the Old Master Caravaggio was discovered.

Livorno is a gritty city with a long and interesting history. In the early Middle Ages it alternately belonged to Pisa and Genoa. In 1421 Florence, seeking access to the sea, bought it. Cosimo I (1519–74) started construction of the harbor in 1571, putting Livorno on the map. After Ferdinando I de’ Medici (1549–1609) proclaimed Livorno a free city, it became a haven for people suffering from religious persecution; Roman Catholics from England and Jews and Moors from Spain and Portugal, among others, settled here. The Quattro Mori (Four Moors), also known as the Monument to Ferdinando I, commemorates this. (The statue of Ferdinando I dates from 1595, the bronze Moors by Pietro Tacca from the 1620s.)In the following centuries, and particularly in the 18th, Livorno boomed as a port. In the 19th century the town drew a host of famous Britons passing through on their grand tours. Its prominence continued up to World War II, when it was heavily bombed. Much of the town’s architecture, therefore, postdates the war, and it’s somewhat difficult to imagine what it might have looked like before. Livorno has recovered from the war, however, as it’s become a huge point of departure for container ships, as well as the only spot in Tuscany for cruise ships to dock for the day.Most of Livorno’s artistic treasures date from the 17th century and aren’t all that interesting unless you dote on obscure baroque artists. Livorno’s most famous native artist, Amedeo Modigliani (1884–1920), was of much more recent vintage. Sadly, there’s no notable work by him in his hometown.There may not be much in the way of art, but it’s still worth strolling around the city. The Mercato Nuovo, which has been around since 1894, sells all sorts of fruits, vegetables, grains, meat, and fish. Outdoor markets nearby are also chock-full of local color. The presence of Camp Darby, an American military base just outside town, accounts for the availability of many American products.If you have time, Livorno is worth a stop for lunch or dinner at the very least.

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There are few more elegant places to salute the sunset than Terrazza Mascagni, Livorno’s refined chessboard piazza. A historic port, and a beachy gateway to Tuscany, Livorno welcomes you ashore to explore this enchanted Italian region’s sun-soaked beauty, rich flavours and world-renowned fine art. Stay in Livorno to explore ‘Piccolo Venezia’, or ‘Little Venice’ – a quarter of the town that’s laced with canals, little marble bridges and plenty of tempting eateries. With its bustling market, fortresses and iconic waterfront, there’s plenty to keep you busy here, but most will be tempted to venture inland to explore more of Tuscany’s many charms and artistic wonders. Test your nose, as you breathe in the subtleties of Tuscany’s vineyard-draped scenery, and visit wineries showcasing the best of the renowned flavours of the Bolgheri wine-growing area. Or head out to Prato, where you’ll find tightly-woven textile history. Pisa’s showpiece tower is within reach, as is Florence’s city of immense and imaginative renaissance beauty. Admire the delicate carving of Michelangelo’s masterpiece, the David statue, and note the provocative stance as he casts a dismissive glance towards Rome. Stand before the city’s majestic black and white cathedral – the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore – with its colossal brick dome. The view down over Florence’s river and grand dome from Piazzale Michelangelo, meanwhile, is one of Italy’s finest. However you choose to spend your time in Tuscany, you’ll discover an artistic region, filled with beauty designed to appeal to every sense.

Livorno is a gritty city with a long and interesting history. In the early Middle Ages it alternately belonged to Pisa and Genoa. In 1421 Florence, seeking access to the sea, bought it. Cosimo I (1519–74) started construction of the harbor in 1571, putting Livorno on the map. After Ferdinando I de’ Medici (1549–1609) proclaimed Livorno a free city, it became a haven for people suffering from religious persecution; Roman Catholics from England and Jews and Moors from Spain and Portugal, among others, settled here. The Quattro Mori (Four Moors), also known as the Monument to Ferdinando I, commemorates this. (The statue of Ferdinando I dates from 1595, the bronze Moors by Pietro Tacca from the 1620s.)In the following centuries, and particularly in the 18th, Livorno boomed as a port. In the 19th century the town drew a host of famous Britons passing through on their grand tours. Its prominence continued up to World War II, when it was heavily bombed. Much of the town’s architecture, therefore, postdates the war, and it’s somewhat difficult to imagine what it might have looked like before. Livorno has recovered from the war, however, as it’s become a huge point of departure for container ships, as well as the only spot in Tuscany for cruise ships to dock for the day.Most of Livorno’s artistic treasures date from the 17th century and aren’t all that interesting unless you dote on obscure baroque artists. Livorno’s most famous native artist, Amedeo Modigliani (1884–1920), was of much more recent vintage. Sadly, there’s no notable work by him in his hometown.There may not be much in the way of art, but it’s still worth strolling around the city. The Mercato Nuovo, which has been around since 1894, sells all sorts of fruits, vegetables, grains, meat, and fish. Outdoor markets nearby are also chock-full of local color. The presence of Camp Darby, an American military base just outside town, accounts for the availability of many American products.If you have time, Livorno is worth a stop for lunch or dinner at the very least.

Day itinerary:

There are few more elegant places to salute the sunset than Terrazza Mascagni, Livorno’s refined chessboard piazza. A historic port, and a beachy gateway to Tuscany, Livorno welcomes you ashore to explore this enchanted Italian region’s sun-soaked beauty, rich flavours and world-renowned fine art. Stay in Livorno to explore ‘Piccolo Venezia’, or ‘Little Venice’ – a quarter of the town that’s laced with canals, little marble bridges and plenty of tempting eateries. With its bustling market, fortresses and iconic waterfront, there’s plenty to keep you busy here, but most will be tempted to venture inland to explore more of Tuscany’s many charms and artistic wonders. Test your nose, as you breathe in the subtleties of Tuscany’s vineyard-draped scenery, and visit wineries showcasing the best of the renowned flavours of the Bolgheri wine-growing area. Or head out to Prato, where you’ll find tightly-woven textile history. Pisa’s showpiece tower is within reach, as is Florence’s city of immense and imaginative renaissance beauty. Admire the delicate carving of Michelangelo’s masterpiece, the David statue, and note the provocative stance as he casts a dismissive glance towards Rome. Stand before the city’s majestic black and white cathedral – the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore – with its colossal brick dome. The view down over Florence’s river and grand dome from Piazzale Michelangelo, meanwhile, is one of Italy’s finest. However you choose to spend your time in Tuscany, you’ll discover an artistic region, filled with beauty designed to appeal to every sense.

One of the most photographed villages along the coast, with a decidedly romantic and affluent aura, Portofino has long been a popular destination for the rich and famous. Once an ancient Roman colony and taken by the Republic of Genoa in 1229, it’s also been ruled by the French, English, Spanish, and Austrians, as well as by marauding bands of 16th-century pirates. Elite British tourists first flocked to the lush harbor in the mid-1800s. Some of Europe’s wealthiest drop anchor in Portofino in summer, but they stay out of sight by day, appearing in the evening after buses and boats have carried off the day-trippers.There’s not actually much to do in Portofino other than stroll around the wee harbor, see the castle, walk to Punta del Capo, browse at the pricey boutiques, and sip a coffee while people-watching. However, weaving through picture-perfect cliffside gardens and gazing at yachts framed by the sapphire Ligurian Sea and the cliffs of Santa Margherita can make for quite a relaxing afternoon. There are also several tame, photo-friendly hikes into the hills to nearby villages.Unless you’re traveling on a deluxe budget, you may want to stay in Camogli or Santa Margherita Ligure rather than at one of Portofino’s few very expensive hotels. Restaurants and cafés are good but also pricey (don’t expect to have a beer here for much under €10).

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Effervescent and exclusive, Portofino rests on a privileged peninsular. Lavish yachts mingle together, seeking out sought-after berths in the harbour, while gelato drips onto the stone-paved streets in this, the most alluring and glamorous town of the Italian Riviera. This section of the Ligurian Coast is a protected area, and home to some of the country’s most picturesque, and jaw-dropping scenery – which is best viewed from the deck of a sailing boat. Crisp white villas roll out across the verdant green hillsides, surrounded by laden vineyards and olive groves. Down in Portofino itself, the buzz of chatter and the clatter of cutlery, provide the soundtrack to busy terrace bars and restaurants, which serve up fine food and delicious sea views. Portofino’s achingly beautiful harbour arcs around the lapping waves, with a warmly-hued waterfront of peach and apricot colours – which also adorns postcards and promotional travel guides of Italy. For the authentic Portofino experience, sail out onto the tranquil waters of the Gulf of Tigullio, to mingle amongst the privileged at play, or settle back in the shade as you take aperitivo on the picturesque waterfront Piazzetta. Here you can sip the famous Ligurian wines, and stave off hunger with focaccia con il formaggio – or platters of fine cheese and hams. Deeper into Portofino, you’ll find artisans crafting their wares and weaving together lace, or you can ascend to viewpoints like the lemon shaded Church of San Giorgio, to look over the pretty jumble from up above. A wander out along the headland to the tapering tip of the peninsular, rewards with the views of Portofino’s iconic white lighthouse beaming out light and welcoming ships to this slice of Riviera heaven.

On one of the best stretches of the Mediterranean, this classic luxury destination is one of the most sought-after addresses in the world. With all the high-rise towers you have to look hard to find the Belle Époque grace of yesteryear. But if you head to the town’s great 1864 landmark Hôtel de Paris—still a veritable crossroads of the buffed and befurred Euro-gentry—or enjoy a grand bouffe at its famous Louis XV restaurant, or attend the opera, or visit the ballrooms of the casino, you may still be able to conjure up Monaco’s elegant past. Prince Albert II, a political science graduate from Amherst College, traces his ancestry to Otto Canella, who was born in 1070. The Grimaldi dynasty began with Otto’s great-great-great-grandson, Francesco Grimaldi, also known as Frank the Rogue. Expelled from Genoa, Frank and his cronies disguised themselves as monks and in 1297 seized the fortified medieval town known today as Le Rocher (the Rock). Except for a short break under Napoléon, the Grimaldis have been here ever since, which makes them the oldest reigning family in Europe. In the 1850s a Grimaldi named Charles III made a decision that turned the Rock into a giant blue chip. Needing revenue but not wanting to impose additional taxes on his subjects, he contracted with a company to open a gambling facility. The first spin of the roulette wheel was on December 14, 1856. There was no easy way to reach Monaco then—no carriage roads or railroads—so no one came. Between March 15 and March 20, 1857, one person entered the casino—and won two francs. In 1868, however, the railroad reached Monaco, and it was filled with Englishmen who came to escape the London fog. The effects were immediate. Profits were so great that Charles eventually abolished all direct taxes. Almost overnight, a threadbare principality became an elegant watering hole for European society. Dukes (and their mistresses) and duchesses (and their gigolos) danced and dined their way through a world of spinning roulette wheels and bubbling champagne—preening themselves for nights at the opera, where such artists as Vaslav Nijinsky, Sarah Bernhardt, and Enrico Caruso came to perform. Along with the tax system, its sensational position on a broad, steep peninsula that bulges into the Mediterranean—its harbor sparkling with luxury cruisers, its posh mansions angling awnings toward the nearly perpetual sun—continues to draw the rich and famous. One of the latest French celebrities to declare himself “Monégasque,” thus giving up his French passport, is superchef Alain Ducasse, who said that he made the choice out of affection for Monaco rather than tax reasons. Pleasure boats vie with luxury cruisers in their brash beauty and Titanic scale, and teams of handsome young men—themselves dyed blond and tanned to match—scour and polish every gleaming surface. As you might expect, all this glitz doesn’t come cheap. Eating is expensive, and even the most modest hotels cost more here than in nearby Nice or Menton. As for taxis, they don’t even have meters so you are completely at the driver’s mercy (with prices skyrocketing during events such as the Grand Prix). For the frugal, Monaco is the ultimate day-trip, although parking is as coveted as a room with a view. At the very least you can afford a coffee at Starbucks. The harbor district, known as La Condamine, connects the new quarter, officially known as Monte Carlo with Monaco-Ville (or Le Rocher), a medieval town on the Rock, topped by the palace, the cathedral, and the Oceanography Museum. Have no fear that you’ll need to climb countless steps to get to Monaco-Ville, as there are plenty of elevators and escalators climbing the steep cliffs. But shuttling between the lovely casino grounds of Monte Carlo and Old Monaco, separated by a vast port, is a daunting proposition for ordinary mortals without wings, so hop on the No. 1 bus from Saint Roman, or No. 2 from the Jardin Exotique – Both stop at Place du Casino and come up to Monaco Ville.

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Glitzy glamorous and unashamedly luxurious – live the high life in Monte Carlo. From the super-yachts jostling for position in the harbour to the lavish bars splashing out iced champagne tiny Monaco’s only city is a high rolling decadent affair – and a gloriously indulgent sun-soaked taste of the good life. Famed for its low tax status – and the Formula One race that roars through its hairpin bends and tight streets each year – Monaco is the ultimate playground of the rich and famous. Monaco may be the world’s second-smallest country – only the Vatican has a smaller footprint – but Monte Carlo has a confidence impact and appeal that few can match. The gilded Royal Palace adds an air of regal glory and whether you want to soak up the culture at the opera or raise the stakes at a casino – doing your finest 007 impressions – you’ll feel very much at home here. Soar above the high-rise hotels and glorious casinos in a helicopter to see the city from above and admire landmarks like the cathedral where Grace Kelly married the Prince of Monaco in 1956. High-end fashion fragrances and fancy adornments await in the gold-label shops of Monte Carlo’s lavish shopping streets while the old town’s pink and lemon floral facades offer an authentic balance of historic character to counterpoint the well-heeled excesses. A wonderful escape revel in old-world glitz and glam as you admire twinkling chandeliers and wander between palatial architecture while enjoying your time in Monte Carlo’s abundant wonderland.