Sydney to Auckland

Day itinerary:

Known for the migrating whales that cruise through its waters between May and November Eden sits in New South Wales’ scenic Twofold Bay. While the whales are now protected and cherished here the town was initially founded as a whaling centre and has many fascinating stories to tell. Namely a unique symbiotic relationship with the killer whales. Rewarded with the tongues from freshly caught whales the orcas would help to round up baleen whales in the bay making it easy for humans to land them. This mutually beneficial exchange came to be known as The Law of the Tongue. Find out more about it and the area’s whaling past at Eden Killer Whale Museum – where you can see the skeleton of the most famous orca accomplice Old Tom. Head into Ben Boyd National Park for amazing bird watching and to see the arches of soaring rock formations rising beside fire-red cliffs. View the glorious coastal scenery of frothing aqua-seas and rugged headlands from the viewing deck on top of Boyd’s Tower. Initially devised as a lighthouse it would later be used as a lookout to spot whales breaching the bay’s waters and to see Old Tom splashing his tail to alert the whalers. Travel through more glorious scenery and tangled rainforest to the verdant promontory of Green Cape Lighthouse. Jutting out into the South Pacific Ocean the pearly-white lighthouse caps crumbling cliffs and offers sweeping views of the jagged cliffs and wave-thrashed rocks.

Straddling the Derwent River at the foot of Mt. Wellington’s forested slopes, Hobart was founded as a penal settlement in 1803. It’s the second-oldest city in the country after Sydney, and it certainly rivals its mainland counterpart as Australia’s most beautiful state capital. Close-set colonial brick-and-sandstone shops and homes line the narrow, quiet streets, creating a genteel setting for this historic city of 215,000. Life revolves around the broad Derwent River port, one of the deepest harbors in the world. Here warehouses that once stored Hobart’s major exports of fruit, wool, and corn and products from the city’s former whaling fleet still stand alongside the wharf today.Hobart sparkles between Christmas and New Year’s—summer Down Under—during the annual Sydney-to-Hobart yacht race. The event dominates conversations among Hobart’s citizens, who descend on Constitution Dock to welcome the yachts and join in the boisterous festivities of the crews. The New Year also coincides with the Tastes of Tasmania Festival, when the dockside area comes alive with the best of Tasmanian food and wine on offer in numerous cafés, bars, and waterfront stalls. Otherwise, Hobart is a placid city whose nightlife is largely confined to excellent restaurants, jazz clubs, and the action at the Wrest Point Casino in Sandy Bay.The Hobart Tasmanian Travel and Information Centre hours are weekdays 8:30–5:30 and Saturday 9–5.

Day itinerary:

Mount Wellington’s looming cloud-wisped form is an ever-present sight as you explore booming Hobart the cosmopolitan capital of Australia’s most southerly state. A former British penal colony nowadays Australia’s second-oldest city is a place to live the free and easy life. Encircled by dramatic cliffs landscaped gardens and rolling vineyards Hobart is also well stacked with cultural pursuits including museums and respected – if controversial – galleries plastering new and old art to their walls. With fresh sea breezes and a fabulous location Hobart is a creative place where you can browse the produce of local artisans in Saturday’s massive Salamanca Market – which draws visitors from all across Tasmania and beyond. Eat at waterfront restaurants or rise up Mount Wellington’s slopes to appreciate the remoteness of Hobart’s location. From this elevated platform you can look down across views of flowing forests undulating mountains and endless ocean swallowing up the city. Further away animal sanctuaries introduce you to the island’s famous inhabitants including the famous Tasmanian devil. Thirsty? Hobart has a long brewing tradition – so enjoy a refreshing ale poured from the country’s oldest brewery. The climate’s blend of generous sunshine and cool Antarctic breezes helps Hobart to produce its acclaimed wines and thick clumps of pinot noir grapes hang from vineyards dotted along the valleys nearby. Taste the wines accompanied by a platter of artisan cheese and sausage.

New Zealand fiord country along with Fiordland National Park is one of New Zealand’s premier attractions. Incredibly beautiful, wild and remote, the region is an intriguing combination of rugged mountain ranges, dense rainforest, solitary alpine lakes, sparkling rivers and splashing waterfalls. Much of Fiordland is virtually unexplored wilderness and still the habitat of rare birds. As the ship cruises the beautiful Doubtful, Dusky and Milford Sounds, experience the majestic fiordland of South Island’s western coast. Captain James Cook sailed along this coast in 1770 and again in 1773, when he anchored at Dusky Sound for a rest and ship repair. Doubtful Sound is one of the region’s most majestic fiords. It is ten times larger than Milford Sound. As the ship cruises into Hall Arm, gaze at vertical cliffs and mighty waterfalls plunging over sheer rock faces. In fine weather, mountains and greenery are reflected in the protected waters of the fiord. Farther north lies Milford Sound. Far from any populated area, Milford Sound is famous for its grandeur and spectacular beauty. It is perhaps the best example of New Zealand’s renowned classic landscape of steep granite peaks framing glacier-carved inlets with mirrored reflections on dark waters. Dominating the scene is Milford’s landmark, the triangular pinnacle of Mitre Peak. Along the sheer cliffs, several waterfalls tumble more than 500 feet (154 metres) into the sheltered Sound. Only a few moored boats and a scattering of buildings at the head of the Sound break the unity of mountains, forest and water. This spectacular beauty and unspoiled setting is yours to enjoy as the ship cruises Milford Sound.

Day itinerary:

Named after Milford Haven in Wales, Milford Sound is not a sound but a fjord, yet the name has stuck. In 1998 the Maori name Piopiotahi has been added and officially it should be written as Milford Sound/Piopiotahi. The local name refers to the extinct New Zealand Thrush (the piopio). Milford Sound sits within South Island’s Fiordland National Park, one of the four national parks forming the UNESCO World Heritage site “Te Wahipounamu” –pounamu being the local greenstone highly estimated for carvings by the Maori.The fjord has a length of approximately 16 kilometers and a depth of more than 290 meters. Steep cliffs, several impressive waterfalls and dense rainforest characterize the fjord. Halfway down the fjord is Stirling Falls, the second tallest. Near the end of the sound the U-shaped Sinbad Gully and the famous Mitre Peak which rises to a height of 1,692 meters can be seen, while on the eastern side is Lady Bowen Falls, at 162 meters the tallest of the falls. The Piopiotahi Marine Reserve protects the flora and fauna in the water. Apart from bottlenose dolphins in the fjord, New Zealand fur seals can be seen resting on Seal Rock on the northern shore, while on the opposite side is a Fiordland Crested Penguin site.

Day itinerary:

Located in the far southwest corner of New Zealand, Doubtful Sound was first named ͞Doubtful Harbor͟by Captain James Cook, who observed the inlet as he sailed past it and declined entering because it looked too tight for his ship. The place is often referred to as the ͞Sound of Silence͟ for its stillness and quiet visitors feel upon entering the fjord. Doubtful Sound is the deepest and second-longest fjord in the region (421 meters deep and 40 km long), second to nearby Milford Sound. Doubtful Sound contains two separate layers of water: fresh water on the surface fed by mountain run-off, and salt water from the sea beneath. These waters do not mix, resulting in two contrasting layers with differing refractive properties that make it difficult for light to penetrate. This phenomenon makes it possible for deep-sea species that are more light-sensitive, such as black coral, to flourish in relatively shallow waters. There are three distinguishable arms to Doubtful Sound all extending southward. The shortest is First Arm at 6km long, followed by the longest Crooked Arm at 14 km, and Hall Arm at 8 km long. Cruise these arms of Doubtful Sound to see its spectacular waterfalls, such as Helena Falls (220 meters high) and the impressive Browne Falls cascades (619 meters). Keep your eyes open for wildlife such as Fjordland crested penguins, bottlenose dolphins and New Zealand fur seals which may be spotted on the small islets that create the entry point to the fjord.

European whaling ships first called at Otago Province during the early decades of the 1800s, yielding a mixed response from the native Māori. In 1848 Dunedin was settled, and by the mid-1860s the city was the economic hub of the Otago gold rush. Dunedin’s historical wealth endures in such institutions as the University of Otago, the oldest in the country. But if any region can bring out the bird-watcher in you, this is it; the area is home to the Royal Albatross and yellow-eyed penguins.

Day itinerary:

The south-easterly coast of New Zealand’s wild southern island is a haven for outdoor adventures with masses of raw scenic beauty and thrilling coastline. Heading the Otago Harbour Dunedin is a cosmopolitan city of culture and architectural splendour with a distinctly tartan flare.Searing bagpipes echo down the streets in the Edinburgh of the South which wears its Scottish origins proudly. Gothic revival architecture is scattered liberally including the magnificent university – with its glorious clocktower – and the city’s grand cathedral. The railway station is perhaps the pick of this city’s many artistic structures. Its glowing gardens and pretty mosaics add extra detail to the elegant gingerbread building. The melodramatic coastline of the Otago Peninsula boasts dramatic cliffs and sea-sprayed beaches as well as an abundance of animals. Explore cliffs laced with tunnels and hidden walkways to get you up close and personal with Yellow-eyed penguins. Sea lions and seals also sprawl out on windswept beaches drifting in and out of indulgent dozes. Not that Dunedin is lacking a distinctly quirky personality of its own as showcased by the event where locals race thousands of chocolate orbs down the world’s steepest street – Baldwin Street. Museums in the city tell of Chinese influences as well as the stories of early Maori settlers. Round off an active day sampling a South Island institution – an icy beer from Speight’s Brewery.

Your initial impression of Christchurch will likely be one of a genteel, green city. Joggers loop through shady Hagley Park, and punters ply the narrow Avon River, which bubbles between banks lined with willows and oaks. With a population approaching 350,000, Christchurch is the largest South Island city, and the second-largest in the country. It is also the forward supply depot for the main U.S. Antarctic base at McMurdo Sound. The face of Christchurch is changing rapidly, fueled by both internal and international immigration. The Māori community, although still below the national average in size, is growing. Ngai Tahu, the main South Island Māori tribe, settled Treaty of Waitangi claims in 1997 and have been investing in tourism ventures. Old wooden bungalows are making way for town houses, the arts scene is flourishing, and the city’s university attracts cutting-edge technology companies. In short, there’s plenty of fresh energy percolating underneath the English veneer.

Day itinerary:

New Zealand’s ‘Garden City’ is a place of quiet streets leafy parks and beautiful tree-lined boulevards. Christchurch has an unmistakable English flavour to it and serves as the gateway to southern New Zealand’s natural wonders. The rebuild of the country’s oldest city continues apace – following the earthquakes that devastated it in 2011 – and the South Island’s biggest city is now blossoming having evolved into a confident and cultural powerhouse. Colourful street art adds an edge to the city while shiny new bars and restaurants contribute to the sense of revitalisation and renewal. Visit museums and take tours to learn more of the reconstruction which has made incredible progress in recent years. The old-time charm of a punt on the River Avon is still a quintessential Christchurch experience. Sail amid weeping willows drooping to the water as you drift through a blur of colours in the botanical gardens. Surrounded by extinct volcanoes soaring lakes and the rolling farmlands of the Canterbury Plains spectacular scenery sprawls around the city. Pay a visit to the Southern Alps’ snow-covered peaks the stunning hot pools and rushing streams of Hanmer Springs or the Hector’s dolphins who swim at Akaroa. A city that has faced immense challenges – both natural and manmade – over the last decade it’s hard not to feel inspired by Christchurch’s defiant character and friendly people who share an open and welcoming outlook that shines stronger than ever.

New Zealand’s capital is, arguably, the country’s most cosmopolitan metropolis. It’s world-class Te Papa Tongarewa-Museum of New Zealand is a don’t-miss attraction, and the burgeoning film industry led, of course, by the Lord of the Rings extravaganzas has injected new life into the local arts scene. Attractive and compact enough to be explored easily on foot, Wellington is a booming destination. Modern high-rise buildings gaze over Port Nicholson, surely one of the finest natural anchorages in the world. Known to local Māori as The Great Harbor of Tara, its two massive arms form the jaws of the fish of Maui from Māori legend. Sometimes referred to as the windy city, Wellington has been the seat of New Zealand’s government since 1865.

Day itinerary:

Sprawling around a hook-shaped peninsula Wellington is a vibrant and energetic seaside capital. A compact well-stocked city of buzzing bars and chatting cafes New Zealand’s capital is a bright and breezy place with an infectious easy-going atmosphere. Known as the creative hub of the South Pacific there are shows to see art installations to enjoy and rich flavours to savour here. The sounds of rare and beautiful birdlife fill the hills around the city and the bush of the green belt provides easy-to-access sanctuary strolls and cycle rides. The Botanical Gardens break up the buildings even more while an iconic cherry-red cable car rumbles up Wellington’s slope to the city’s best viewpoint looking out over the city’s scenic harbour from above. Zealandia has provided an urban home for rare and endangered birdlife bringing many species back from the brink. Varied museums cover everything from Maori traditions to earthquake simulations and even the real-life Kraken – a displayed colossal squid. Wellington is only New Zealand’s third-biggest city but spend some time here and you’ll realise that’s a blessing. The wines grown nearby are revered and the city’s craft beers are also making waves. Wander the breezy waterfront and admire the surfers riding the wind-whipped rollers of the self-proclaimed ‘coolest little capital in the world’.

The earthquake that struck Napier at 10:46 am on February 3, 1931, was—at 7.8 on the Richter scale—the largest quake ever recorded in New Zealand. The coastline was wrenched upward several feet. Almost all the town’s brick buildings collapsed; many people were killed on the footpaths as they rushed outside. The quake triggered fires throughout town, and with water mains shattered, little could be done to stop the blazes that devoured the remaining wooden structures. Only a few buildings survived (the Public Service Building with its neoclassical pillars is one), and the death toll was well over 100.The surviving townspeople set up tents and cookhouses in Nelson Park, and then tackled the city’s reconstruction at a remarkable pace. In the rush to rebuild, Napier went mad for art deco, the bold, geometric style that had burst on the global design scene in 1925. Now a walk through the art deco district, concentrated between Emerson, Herschell, Dalton, and Browning streets, is a stylistic immersion. The decorative elements are often above the ground floors, so keep your eyes up.

Day itinerary:

Sip the fine wines of legendary producers visit Cape Kidnappers’ crowds of birdlife and wander the stylish streets of the world’s art deco capital during your time in handsome Napier. Located on the huge arc of Hawke’s Bay Napier enjoys a generous Mediterranean style climate and a breezy cafe culture. A green outdoor town wander Marine Parade which borders the rich blue Pacific and invites you to stroll along a tree-lined two-mile seafront. Take the gentle hike up to Bluff Hill for panoramic views over the lively Napier Port and out towards Cape Kidnappers – given its name following a clash between Captain Cook’s settlers and the local Maori population. Here you’ll encounter one of the world’s largest mainland gannet colonies creating a colourful cacophony by the sea. Set on sheer cliffs the golden-headed birds are an incredible sight swirling overhead and dancing before you. The city’s renowned Art Deco architecture glows in the sunshine of New Zealand’s North Island. Built following the devastating 7.8 magnitude earthquake which ripped through the region in 1931. The rebuild in the architectural fashion of the time has left an authentic treasure-trove of 30s style buildings. Grapes thrive in the warm dry climate of Napier and Hawke’s Bay which is one of New Zealand’s oldest wine regions. Swirl glasses in waterfront bars or head out to walk among the vineyards of pinot gris and syrah grapes learning of the climate conditions that help add sophisticated flavour to every bottle.

Auckland is called the City of Sails, and visitors flying in will see why. On the East Coast is the Waitemata Harbour—a Māori word meaning sparkling waters—which is bordered by the Hauraki Gulf, an aquatic playground peppered with small islands where many Aucklanders can be found “mucking around in boats.”Not surprisingly, Auckland has some 70,000 boats. About one in four households in Auckland has a seacraft of some kind, and there are 102 beaches within an hour’s drive; during the week many are quite empty. Even the airport is by the water; it borders the Manukau Harbour, which also takes its name from the Māori language and means solitary bird.According to Māori tradition, the Auckland isthmus was originally peopled by a race of giants and fairy folk. When Europeans arrived in the early 19th century, however, the Ngāti-Whātua tribe was firmly in control of the region. The British began negotiations with the Ngāti-Whātua in 1840 to purchase the isthmus and establish the colony’s first capital. In September of that year the British flag was hoisted to mark the township’s foundation, and Auckland remained the capital until 1865, when the seat of government was moved to Wellington. Aucklanders expected to suffer from the shift; it hurt their pride but not their pockets. As the terminal for the South Sea shipping routes, Auckland was already an established commercial center. Since then the urban sprawl has made this city of approximately 1.3 million people one of the world’s largest geographically.A couple of days in the city will reveal just how developed and sophisticated Auckland is—the Mercer City Survey 2012 saw it ranked as the third-highest city for quality of life—though those seeking a New York in the South Pacific will be disappointed. Auckland is more get-up and go-outside than get-dressed-up and go-out. That said, most shops are open daily, central bars and a few nightclubs buzz well into the wee hours, especially Thursday through Saturday, and a mix of Māori, Pacific people, Asians, and Europeans contributes to the cultural milieu. Auckland has the world’s largest single population of Pacific Islanders living outside their home countries, though many of them live outside the central parts of the city and in Manukau to the south. The Samoan language is the second most spoken in New Zealand. Most Pacific people came to New Zealand seeking a better life. When the plentiful, low-skilled work that attracted them dried up, the dream soured, and the population has suffered with poor health and education. Luckily, policies are now addressing that, and change is slowly coming. The Pacifica Festival in March is the region’s biggest cultural event, attracting thousands to Western Springs. The annual Pacific Island Secondary Schools’ Competition, also in March, sees young Pacific Islander and Asian students compete in traditional dance, drumming, and singing. This event is open to the public.At the geographical center of Auckland city is the 1,082-foot Sky Tower, a convenient landmark for those exploring on foot and some say a visible sign of the city’s naked aspiration. It has earned nicknames like the Needle and the Big Penis—a counterpoint to a poem by acclaimed New Zealand poet James K. Baxter, which refers to Rangitoto Island as a clitoris in the harbor.The Waitemata Harbour has become better known since New Zealand staged its first defense of the America’s Cup in 2000 and the successful Louis Vuitton Pacific Series in early 2009. The first regatta saw major redevelopment of the waterfront. The area, where many of the city’s most popular bars, cafés, and restaurants are located, is now known as Viaduct Basin or, more commonly, the Viaduct. A recent expansion has created another area, Wynyard Quarter, which is slowly adding restaurants.These days, Auckland is still considered too bold and brash for its own good by many Kiwis who live “south of the Bombay Hills,” the geographical divide between Auckland and the rest of New Zealand (barring Northland). “Jafa,” an acronym for “just another f—ing Aucklander,” has entered the local lexicon; there’s even a book out called Way of the Jafa: A Guide to Surviving Auckland and Aucklanders. A common complaint is that Auckland absorbs the wealth from the hard work of the rest of the country. Most Aucklanders, on the other hand, still try to shrug and see it as the parochial envy of those who live in small towns. But these internal identity squabbles aren’t your problem. You can enjoy a well-made coffee in almost any café, or take a walk on a beach—knowing that within 30 minutes’ driving time you could be cruising the spectacular harbor, playing a round at a public golf course, or even walking in subtropical forest while listening to the song of a native tûî bird.

Day itinerary:

Known as the ‘City of Sails’, its two harbours will tempt you with waterfront walks and the chance to breathe fresh sea air deep into your lungs while absorbing spectacular views of Auckland’s grand harbour bridge’s span. Take in the true scale of Auckland’s magnificent cityscape by ascending 192 metres to the Sky Tower and looking out over the city’s gleaming silver towers which reflect on the abundant waters below. Views over the bay and adjacent islands await and you can share elegant cocktails at this dizzying height above the mingling yachts of Viaduct Harbour. Immerse yourself in the rich history and culture of the area at Auckland Art Gallery Toi o Tāmaki. Set beside tranquil fountains and handsomely landscaped flowerbeds of Albert Park, the French-Renaissance building houses, New Zealand’s most extensive art collection and exhibits works from Māori and Pacific artists. New Zealand is world-renowned for its captivating natural scenery and day trips across the sparkling bays to nearby islands like Waiheke Tiritiri Matangi and Rangitoto are always tempting. Discover lava caves grape-laden vineyards and flourishing wildlife in the Hauraki Gulf’s islands.You’ll also find an exceptional 360-degree panorama over the city to the horizon beyond from the heights of ancient Mount Eden. The spectacular dormant volcano rises improbably from a city suburb and also lends its name to Eden Park – the unusual translucent stadium of New Zealand’s mighty All Blacks.