If you associate Puerto Rico’s capital with the colonial streets of Old San Juan, then you know only part of the picture. San Juan is a major metropolis, radiating out from the bay on the Atlantic Ocean that was discovered by Juan Ponce de León. More than a third of the island’s nearly 4 million citizens proudly call themselves sanjuaneros. The city may be rooted in the past, but it has its eye on the future. Locals go about their business surrounded by colonial architecture and towering modern structures.By 1508 the explorer Juan Ponce de León had established a colony in an area now known as Caparra, southeast of present-day San Juan. He later moved the settlement north to a more hospitable peninsular location. In 1521, after he became the first colonial governor, Ponce de León switched the name of the island—which was then called San Juan Bautista in honor of St. John the Baptist—with that of the settlement of Puerto Rico (“rich port”).Defended by the imposing Castillo San Felipe del Morro (El Morro) and Castillo San Cristóbal, Puerto Rico’s administrative and population center remained firmly in Spain’s hands until 1898, when it came under U.S. control after the Spanish-American War. Centuries of Spanish rule left an indelible imprint on the city, particularly in the walled area now known as Old San Juan. The area is filled with cobblestone streets and brightly painted, colonial-era structures, and its fortifications have been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.Old San Juan is a monument to the past, but most of the rest of the city is planted firmly in the 21st century and draws migrants island-wide and from farther afield to jobs in its businesses and industries. The city captivates residents and visitors alike with its vibrant lifestyle as well as its balmy beaches, pulsing nightclubs, globe-spanning restaurants, and world-class museums. Once you set foot in this city, you may never want to leave.
The capital of Dutch St. Maarten stretches about a mile (1½ km) along an isthmus between Great Bay and the Salt Pond and has five parallel streets. Most of the village’s dozens of shops and restaurants are on Front Street, narrow and cobblestone, closest to Great Bay. It’s generally congested when cruise ships are in port, because of its many duty-free shops and several casinos. Little lanes called steegjes connect Front Street with Back Street, which has fewer shops and considerably less congestion. Along the beach is a ½-mile-long (1-km-long) boardwalk with restaurants and several Wi-Fi hot spots.Wathey Square (pronounced watty) is in the heart of the village. Directly across from the square are the town hall and the courthouse, in a striking white building with cupola. The structure was built in 1793 and has served as the commander’s home, a fire station, a jail, and a post office. The streets surrounding the square are lined with hotels, duty-free shops, restaurants, and cafés. The Captain Hodge Pier, just off the square, is a good spot to view Great Bay and the beach that stretches alongside.
You can easily explore all of Gustavia during a two-hour stroll. Some shops close from noon to 3 or 4, so plan lunch accordingly, but stores stay open past 7 in the evening. Parking in Gustavia is a challenge, especially during vacation times. A good spot to park is rue de la République, alongside the catamarans, yachts, and sailboats.
If you fly to the 32-square-mile (83-square-km) island of St. Thomas, you land at its western end; if you arrive by cruise ship, you come into one of the world’s most beautiful harbors. Either way, one of your first sights is the town of Charlotte Amalie. From the harbor you see an idyllic-looking village that spreads into the lower hills. If you were expecting a quiet hamlet with its inhabitants hanging out under palm trees, you’ve missed that era by about 300 years. Although other islands in the USVI developed plantation economies, St. Thomas cultivated its harbor, and it became a thriving seaport soon after it was settled by the Danish in the 1600s. The success of the naturally perfect harbor was enhanced by the fact that the Danes—who ruled St. Thomas with only a couple of short interruptions from 1666 to 1917—avoided involvement in some 100 years’ worth of European wars. Denmark was the only European country with colonies in the Caribbean to stay neutral during the War of the Spanish Succession in the early 1700s. Thus, products of the Dutch, English, and French islands—sugar, cotton, and indigo—were traded through Charlotte Amalie, along with the regular shipments of slaves. When the Spanish wars ended, trade fell off, but by the end of the 1700s Europe was at war again, Denmark again remained neutral, and St. Thomas continued to prosper. Even into the 1800s, while the economies of St. Croix and St. John foundered with the market for sugarcane, St. Thomas’s economy remained vigorous. This prosperity led to the development of shipyards, a well-organized banking system, and a large merchant class. In 1845 Charlotte Amalie had 101 large importing houses owned by the English, French, Germans, Haitians, Spaniards, Americans, Sephardim, and Danes. Charlotte Amalie is still one of the world’s most active cruise-ship ports. On almost any day at least one and sometimes as many as eight cruise ships are tied to the docks or anchored outside the harbor. Gently rocking in the shadows of these giant floating hotels are just about every other kind of vessel imaginable: sleek sailing catamarans that will take you on a sunset cruise complete with rum punch and a Jimmy Buffett soundtrack, private megayachts for billionaires, and barnacle-bottom sloops—with laundry draped over the lifelines—that are home to world-cruising gypsies. Huge container ships pull up in Sub Base, west of the harbor, bringing in everything from breakfast cereals to tires. Anchored right along the waterfront are down-island barges that ply the waters between the Greater Antilles and the Leeward Islands, transporting goods such as refrigerators, VCRs, and disposable diapers. The waterfront road through Charlotte Amalie was once part of the harbor. Before it was filled in to build the highway, the beach came right up to the back door of the warehouses that now line the thoroughfare. Two hundred years ago those warehouses were filled with indigo, tobacco, and cotton. Today the stone buildings house silk, crystal, and diamonds. Exotic fragrances are still traded, but by island beauty queens in air-conditioned perfume palaces instead of through open market stalls. The pirates of old used St. Thomas as a base from which to raid merchant ships of every nation, though they were particularly fond of the gold- and silver-laden treasure ships heading to Spain. Pirates are still around, but today’s versions use St. Thomas as a drop-off for their contraband: illegal immigrants and drugs. To explore outside Charlotte Amalie, rent a car or hire a taxi. Your rental car should come with a good map; if not, pick up the pocket-size “St. Thomas–St. John Road Map” at a tourist information center. Roads are marked with route numbers, but they’re confusing and seem to switch numbers suddenly. Roads are also identified by signs bearing the St. Thomas–St. John Hotel and Tourism Association’s mascot, Tommy the Starfish. More than 100 of these color-coded signs line the island’s main routes. Orange signs trace the route from the airport to Red Hook, green signs identify the road from town to Magens Bay, Tommy’s face on a yellow background points from Mafolie to Crown Bay through the north side, red signs lead from Smith Bay to Four Corners via Skyline Drive, and blue signs mark the route from the cruise-ship dock at Havensight to Red Hook. These color-coded routes are not marked on most visitor maps, however. Allow yourself a day to explore, especially if you want to stop to take pictures or to enjoy a light bite or refreshing swim. Most gas stations are on the island’s more populated eastern end, so fill up before heading to the north side. And remember to drive on the left!
If you associate Puerto Rico’s capital with the colonial streets of Old San Juan, then you know only part of the picture. San Juan is a major metropolis, radiating out from the bay on the Atlantic Ocean that was discovered by Juan Ponce de León. More than a third of the island’s nearly 4 million citizens proudly call themselves sanjuaneros. The city may be rooted in the past, but it has its eye on the future. Locals go about their business surrounded by colonial architecture and towering modern structures.By 1508 the explorer Juan Ponce de León had established a colony in an area now known as Caparra, southeast of present-day San Juan. He later moved the settlement north to a more hospitable peninsular location. In 1521, after he became the first colonial governor, Ponce de León switched the name of the island—which was then called San Juan Bautista in honor of St. John the Baptist—with that of the settlement of Puerto Rico (“rich port”).Defended by the imposing Castillo San Felipe del Morro (El Morro) and Castillo San Cristóbal, Puerto Rico’s administrative and population center remained firmly in Spain’s hands until 1898, when it came under U.S. control after the Spanish-American War. Centuries of Spanish rule left an indelible imprint on the city, particularly in the walled area now known as Old San Juan. The area is filled with cobblestone streets and brightly painted, colonial-era structures, and its fortifications have been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.Old San Juan is a monument to the past, but most of the rest of the city is planted firmly in the 21st century and draws migrants island-wide and from farther afield to jobs in its businesses and industries. The city captivates residents and visitors alike with its vibrant lifestyle as well as its balmy beaches, pulsing nightclubs, globe-spanning restaurants, and world-class museums. Once you set foot in this city, you may never want to leave.
Natural light streams through the floor-to-ceiling windows of the Owner’s Suite, illuminating the interior of up to 1,033 square feet. The contemporary living area includes an in-suite bar for hosting cocktail hour before enjoying dinner with friends in the dining area — or alfresco on the expansive private terrace. After sunset, unwind under the stars in the terrace’s whirlpool spa and indulge in a soothing outdoor shower before heading inside to retire. The bedroom welcomes you to a sanctum of repose, complete with a custom king bed and spacious walk-in wardrobe, and the marble bath includes a modern shower, soaking tub, double vanity and a powder room that can be accessed conveniently from the foyer.
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Spacious indoors and out, the Concierge Suite offers up to 786 square feet of interior area and a private terrace of up to 409 square feet. The bedroom includes a generous walk-in wardrobe and dressing area as well as a marble bath with a double vanity, walk-in shower, soaking tub and an enclosed powder room accessible from the foyer. Sunlight casts a warm glow through the floor-to-ceiling glass in the bedroom and living room, which both open onto the terrace so you can step out to take in the views. The interior and outdoor spaces each feature an elegant dining area and a comfortable living area with a plush sofa, perfect for entertaining guests or enjoying a romantic evening for two.
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The Ilma Suite embraces the ever-changing vistas along the horizon with an expansive private terrace of 291 to 301 square feet. Sunbathe with a traveling companion on the dual chaise lounges or curl up with a bestseller on the comfortable outdoor sofa. Host friends for dinner with a seaside harbor as a backdrop when you dine alfresco on the terrace or view the tableau through the floor-to-ceiling windows of the indoor dining area. Within up to 657 square feet of interior space, the cozy bedroom retreat features a luxurious king bed, spacious closets, and a modern shower system in the bath, which may also include a separate soaking tub.
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Within the View Suite interiors of up to 689 square feet, dramatic floor-to-ceiling windows in the living area and bedroom connect you to the surrounding seascapes. Step from the bedroom onto your private terrace of up to 205 square feet, where fresh sea breezes and scenic views await. After an alfresco breakfast, prepare for your day in the spacious marble bath featuring a double vanity, modern soaking tub and separate shower. The walk-in wardrobe and dressing area in the bedroom provide ample space to ready yourself for the day’s exploration. When evening comes, invite friends to join you in the dining area of your suite, which may also include a separate powder room for your guests.
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With 560 square feet of interior luxury plus a private terrace of up to 199 square feet, the Grand Suite has all the comforts of home and then some. Host friends for dinner at the stylish dining table for four and enjoy after-dinner drinks and conversation in the spacious living area. When it’s time to retire, open the double doors onto your bedroom retreat, which includes dual walk-in wardrobes, and enjoy a relaxing soak in the marble-clad tub before drifting off in the comfort of the custom king bed. Each morning, sip an espresso on your terrace as you take in the view of the enchanting destination you’re about to explore.
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The welcoming entry corridor of the Signature Suite leads to an intimate dining area for two, where you can enjoy a delicious meal at any time of day or night. Then take in a movie from the plush sofa in the living area, or from the custom king bed in the spacious bedroom that features a second television. The bath offers the convenience of a double vanity for couples, a walk-in shower and a soaking tub, perfect for unwinding after adventures ashore. The ample 409 square feet of interior space is complemented by a private outdoor terrace of up to 151 square feet, where a comfortable lounger is equally suited to sunbathing or stargazing.
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The airy interiors of the Terrace Suite offer 294 square feet of comfort, and just beyond the floor-to-ceiling windows, the namesake private terrace provides up to 108 square feet overlooking the sea.
This personal oasis includes a custom king bed, an ample wardrobe and a separate sitting area for curling up with a good book. The marble bath features luxurious amenities by Diptyque Paris, a modern shower system and a double vanity — ideal when sharing the space with a companion. Wake each morning to fresh coffee from the in-suite espresso machine and conclude each day with a nightcap from the mini-bar, while a Suite Ambassador attends to your wishes in the moments in between.
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The thoughtful design of the spacious main restaurant creates a warm, welcoming ambiance that balances a sense of privacy with the desire for social connection. Both traditional and innovative, the breakfast, lunch and dinner dishes showcase the fresh local ingredients and seasonal cuisines of the destinations that Ilma explores, with menus ever changing like the tides of the sea. Tides Sample Menu
Join friends at a private enclave within Tides for an exclusive dining experience. The stylish and inviting ambiance of Dining Privée provides the perfect setting for celebratory dinners and other special events. Reservations are required, and an additional fee applies.
Elegant and modern in design, Seta Su Ilma offers decadent tasting menus featuring exquisite cuisine deeply rooted in Italian traditions. Savor fresh seafood, perfectly grilled steak and handmade pasta — each course impeccably paired with a fine wine. Accompaniments like freshly baked bread, cold-pressed olive oils, seasonal truffles, and limoncello from the Amalfi Coast complete an authentic Italian dining experience worthy of a Michelin star. Reservations are required, and an additional fee applies.
From sashimi to tempura to Wagyu beef dishes, Memorī offers contemporary interpretations of authentic Japanese cuisine. With sleek angles and textural accents, the vibrant space centers around the sushi bar at the heart of the restaurant, while also offering ample seating at comfortable tables indoors and alfresco.
Just steps from the Main Pool on Deck 10, Mistral invites you to a celebration of timeless Mediterranean cuisine. Traditional breakfast dishes in the morning are followed by handmade pastas and pizzas, crisp salads and fresh seafood, along with grilled steaks and chops as the day evolves to evening. Throughout the spacious seating indoors and alfresco, shades of blue mirror the views of the surrounding sea and sky.
Comfortable and stylish, The Living Room greets you with fresh coffee, tea, pastries and other sweet and savory treats each morning. As the day progresses, the bar pours premium cocktails, fine wines and champagne, and a live pianist sets the mood. Each evening this becomes the perfect spot to enjoy canapés and an aperitif before dinner — and then return afterward for late-night dancing.
When you wish to dine in the comfort of your suite or on your private terrace, our All-Day Dining menu offers a variety of selections from the onboard restaurants. Later in the evening, a Late-Night Dining menu is available.
The airy, light-filled interiors of the Beach House flow seamlessly to its outdoor decks, where the Infinity Pool reflects Ilma’s connection to the sea. Dine indoors or alfresco on Latin-inspired cuisine, complemented by craft beers, bold wines and an elevated tequila selection, in this elegant yet relaxed space evoking a chic Peruvian beach club.
Comfortable and stylish, The Living Room is the perfect place to connect with friends or retreat to a private alcove with a good book from the library. Fresh coffee and pastries greet you in the morning, while the afternoon brings cocktails and canapés. As the mood evolves throughout the day, the melodies of a live pianist give way to a late-night DJ for dancing and themed parties.
From exclusive sportswear and branded apparel to jewellery and leather goods, leading labels offer enticing options. In select ports, your shopping experience is further enhanced by bespoke collaborations with local artisans who come on board to showcase their offerings.
A tranquil open-air retreat on Deck 9 forward, The Observation Terrace offers comfortable chaises and sofas for sunbathing or socializing while taking in the panoramic views. Cool off with a frozen cocktail, spritzer or ice cream treat from the bar, and enjoy attentive deck service offering chilled misting and iced towels.
A softly lit enclave furnished in rich leathers and dark walnut timbers, this cozy lounge is named for its state-of-the-art humidor showcasing fine tobaccos that include an exceptional collection of hand-rolled cigars by Davidoff. Settle into a plush armchair and sip a premium cognac or a well-aged Macallan single-malt whisky.
Begin your evening with a bubbly cocktail, toast a special event or relax with an after-dinner nightcap, this intimate cocktail lounge serves top labels from around the world, as well as premium champagnes with caviar pairings.
Right at the water’s edge, the Marina offers space for lounging as well as direct access to the sea for kayaking, paddle boarding and other watersports. Just steps above, the expansive Marina Terrace serves cool refreshments, such as handcrafted cocktails, frozen sorbet and chilled fruit brochettes, with a backdrop of dramatic seascapes.
Listen to the gentle lap of waves while reclining on a massage table, savoring a therapeutic spa treatment from the private terrace of one of our treatment rooms. Inspired by the destinations we visit and curated to fulfill your needs, our treatments feature the finest ESPA products to awaken the senses, refresh the body and renew the spirit. Arrive early, stay a while and drift away into relaxation aboard your oasis at sea.
With panoramic views from high atop the yacht, Deck 10 is home to Ilma’s large Main Pool, with tanning ledges and spacious sundecks for lounging and The Pool Bar serving refreshing drinks. This lively space is also an entertainment hub for sail-away parties, themed events and movies under the stars. A few decks down, the Beach House not only serves delicious Latin-inspired cuisine but also features the aft Infinity Pool, where views from a comfortable chaise stretch as far as the horizon.
The Fitness Studio is home to a health and wellness program that integrates fitness and spa with lectures and nutrition that can be customized for each guest. From personal training to sunrise yoga and mat Pilates, each voyage has opportunities to maintain a healthy lifestyle. With a selection of machines such as bikes, rowers and ellipticals as well as free weights and other equipment, guests can take their regular exercise routine onboard.
The Salon offers a variety of beauty and hair services including manicure and pedicure treatments, hair consultations, cutting, styling and blow drying. Next door at The Barber, gentlemen can enjoy a close shave or invigorating facial before heading ashore to explore the port feeling refreshed and revitalized.
Enjoy an invigorating massage, revitalizing facial or other rejuvenating treatment in one of the spa’s 11 private rooms, indoors with ocean views or alfresco with sea breezes. A sauna, steam room and quiet zones allow you to truly disconnect, and The Barber and The Salon ensure you always look your best. Reservations are required, and an additional fee applies.