Cape Town to Tema

The reopening of the diamond mine at Elizabeth Bay 20 years ago has brought the development of tourism and fishing back to this small 19th century village on the barren, windswept Namib Desert coast. One of Namibias oddities, it has everything you’d expect from a small German town – delicatessens, coffee shops and a Lutheran church. Here, the icy but clean South Atlantic is home to seals, penguins and other marine life and the desolate beaches support flamingoes. It was founded in 1883 when Heinrich Vogelsang purchased Angra Pequena and some of the surrounding land on behalf of Adolf Lüderitz, a Hanseat from Germany, from the local Nama chief. Lüderitz began its life as a trading post, with other activities in fishing and guano-harvesting. As a sign of Luderitz’s revival, 1996 staged the first traditional German Karneval since 1960.

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The scorched desert that surrounds Luderitz means the city’s collection of German art nouveau architecture couldn’t look more unusually placed along the Namibian coastline. This quirkiness is what gives the destination its charm. See gangs of playful penguins skipping across the waves pink flamingos wading by the coast and dolphins leaping into the air near Penguin Island and Seal Island. A much more haunting location with an incredibly dark past is Shark Island – which witnessed the deaths of between 1 000 and 3 000 people when it was the location of a German concentration camp between 1905 and 1907. Inland from Luderitz is Kolmanskop the site of a famous diamond mine and ghost town.

Once a whaling station, Walvis Bay provides a gateway to the extraordinary desert landscapes of Namibia and is itself an area of unusual natural beauty. The showpiece of the Walvis Bay area is the natural lagoon where you can see flamingos in their thousands at certain times of the year, along with a variety of other wading birds such as the white pelican. Further inland you will find the stunning Namib Desert, which provides an unlikely home for a diverse array of wildlife. Alternatively, you could venture into the desert of Sossusvlei, whose mountainous ochre sand dunes are said to be the highest in the world, or visit the colonial town of Swakopmund.

Day itinerary:

Home to a beautiful lagoon washed pale pink by a colony of resident flamingos Walvis Bay is a colourful African call where you can meet some of the continent’s most flamboyant wildlife. A small Namibian city on the Atlantic coast of southern Africa the city takes its name from Whale Bay – which gives a clue as to the wonderful wildlife watching opportunities available here. As Namibia’s only deep-water harbour Walvis Bay is an important fishing centre for the country and its sunny shores and natural wonders make it a popular spot for holidaymakers. Walvis Bay is a bird lover’s paradise and hundreds of thousands of birds assemble here to make the most of the tidal lagoon. Boat tours can take you out amongst the preening crowds or you can admire the flamingos herons and carefully treading wading bird species from afar. With whales and dolphins frolicking offshore too there’s a wide variety of wildlife to see here. On the cusp of the sun-scorched Namib Desert beyond Dune 7 rises up to form the highest sand dune in the country with sands piling up 380 metres. Perfect for a picnic or a pulse-raising desert sport like sand skiing or sandboarding. Climb to the top for views from its heights or you can take a flight tour to see further afield and spot some of the extraordinary land animals who roam the landscapes. See the natural drama of Sandwich Harbour where the golden sand dunes plummet directly into the ocean’s waves.

Once a whaling station, Walvis Bay provides a gateway to the extraordinary desert landscapes of Namibia and is itself an area of unusual natural beauty. The showpiece of the Walvis Bay area is the natural lagoon where you can see flamingos in their thousands at certain times of the year, along with a variety of other wading birds such as the white pelican. Further inland you will find the stunning Namib Desert, which provides an unlikely home for a diverse array of wildlife. Alternatively, you could venture into the desert of Sossusvlei, whose mountainous ochre sand dunes are said to be the highest in the world, or visit the colonial town of Swakopmund.

Day itinerary:

Home to a beautiful lagoon washed pale pink by a colony of resident flamingos Walvis Bay is a colourful African call where you can meet some of the continent’s most flamboyant wildlife. A small Namibian city on the Atlantic coast of southern Africa the city takes its name from Whale Bay – which gives a clue as to the wonderful wildlife watching opportunities available here. As Namibia’s only deep-water harbour Walvis Bay is an important fishing centre for the country and its sunny shores and natural wonders make it a popular spot for holidaymakers. Walvis Bay is a bird lover’s paradise and hundreds of thousands of birds assemble here to make the most of the tidal lagoon. Boat tours can take you out amongst the preening crowds or you can admire the flamingos herons and carefully treading wading bird species from afar. With whales and dolphins frolicking offshore too there’s a wide variety of wildlife to see here. On the cusp of the sun-scorched Namib Desert beyond Dune 7 rises up to form the highest sand dune in the country with sands piling up 380 metres. Perfect for a picnic or a pulse-raising desert sport like sand skiing or sandboarding. Climb to the top for views from its heights or you can take a flight tour to see further afield and spot some of the extraordinary land animals who roam the landscapes. See the natural drama of Sandwich Harbour where the golden sand dunes plummet directly into the ocean’s waves.

Namibe is a coastal city of baroque architecture and stately churches in southwestern Angola. The city was founded in 1840 by the colonial Portuguese administration. Namibe is perched between the edge of the expansive Namib Desert and the cold waters of the Benguela Current flowing to the north offshore. Thanks to the blend of cool water and proximity to the desert, Namibe has a cool dry climate and desert vegetation. The most famous of these desert plants is the Welwitschia mirabilis, a rare plant found only in the Namibe Provence of South Angola and the Namib Desert. This exceptional plant species is generally considered to be one of Earth’s older living plants and experts suggest that it can live up to 1,000 years. Close to Namibe is the Arch Lagoon, also known as “the lost oasis”. The lagoon is formed by a magnificent rock formation in a unique display of art in nature. Despite its name the lagoon is usually dry in Spring.

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Perched between the edge of the expansive Namib Desert and the cold waters of the Benguela Current lies the coastal city of Moçâmedes. Formerly known as Namibe, the south western Angolan city recently changed its back to its original Portuguese name, after being known as Namibe, between 1985 and 2016. Both names are used equally.Like much of Angola, Namibe has Portuguese roots. The city was founded in the mid-19th century by 160 settlers coming from the motherland as well as refugees fleeting the unrest in Brazil. The impact of Portugal has left its legacy on the city. Roman Catholic and colonial architecture in the historic centre of Moçâmedes range from Saint Ferdinand Fort and the churches of Saint Adrian and Saint Peter.Due to Namibe’s proximity to the desert, it is unsurprising that the city briefly changed its name. Vast deserts and semi-desert regions cover much of the territory, joining the Skeleton Coast of Namibia. Desert vegetation is rife and includes the Welwitschia mirabilis, a rare plant found only in the Namibe Provence of South Angola and Namibia’s part of the Namib Desert. The plant, known colloquially as the “long-haired thing” is considered a living fossil, with experts believing that some specimens may be up to 5,000 years old, making Namibe’s examples the oldest living things on Earth. Namibe’s secrets are not just found in the desert however, the nearby (often dry) Arch Lagoon, or Lost Lagoon, is home to many bird species including water birds, raptors and weavers.

To visit Luanda is to witness the inhabitants of Angola rebuild a great city with their newly-acquired wealth. The sense of pride and confidence is overwhelming, and is demonstrated by the city’s new highways and skyscrapers, and by the wildlife and habitat rehabilitation programmes being carried out by the conservation authorities. The modern city of Luanda was founded in 1575 by Portuguese explorer Paulo Dias de Novais, and soon became a centre for trade between Portugal’s African colonies and Brazil. Apart from a short period of Dutch occupation, Luanda was under Portuguese rule until 1974. In the four decades since independence, Angola has become a peaceful and increasingly prosperous country, rich in diamonds and Africa’s second largest oil producer: many international companies now have head offices in Luanda. Please note: Owing to the destruction caused to the country’s infrastructure during the civil war that ended in 2002, Angola lost much of its ability to produce and distribute food: the resulting heavy import duties and high taxes have driven up the cost of goods and services, making Luanda one of the world’s most expensive cities. The price of excursions in this port reflects the prevailing local conditions.

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A study in contrasting economies Luanda is a boisterous coastal city of haves and have-nots. As capital of Africa’s second-largest oil-producing country it has been deemed the world’s most expensive city and since independence in 2002 everyone seems to be gunning for a piece of the post-civil war economy. Its renaissance offers a range of experiences from cushy hotels to a restaurant-lined oceanfront promenade to locals hawking handmade goods at crowded public markets.

Atop the northernmost point of Principe is Bom Bom, a small island where a 140 meter wooden bridge leads from the small islet to a resort well hidden in the local forest. A track weaves through the forest heading into thick forest and meanders by villages and local gardens. Little walking is required to visit the resort’s two splendid beaches for swimming and snorkeling. Birders enjoy Bom Bom Island for spotting the outstanding Principe Sunbird, Principe Speirops, Principe Golden Weaver, Principe Glossy Starling, Principe and brilliant Blue-breasted Flycatcher.

If you’re sick of the usual beach resorts, then zesty Lomé will welcome you to a coastal destination that oozes with inimitable character. The former ‘Jewel of West Africa’ offers some wonderful beaches, and exports its delicious bounty of cocoa, coffee and pine kernels far and wide. A disorientating place, where stuttering engines and whizzing motorbikes add a chaotic essence to the city’s streets, you’ll see vendors strolling with supplies balanced improbably on their heads, along with a healthy supply of intrigue, adventure and buzzing markets. Swarms of bikes and motorbikes dominate the coastal road, which borders the huge, palm tree lined Lomé beach – but the sand is wide enough for you to relax with the road merely a distant whisper. A treasure trove of traditional masks and statues wait for you to explore inside the National Museum, while the characterful Monument de l’Independance honours the country’s sacrifices in its struggle for independence, and is a suitably defiant beacon of liberation.

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If polished beach resorts with identikit sun loungers and beach menus are not quite your idea of experiential travel, then you have come to the right place. Because Lomé is authenticity at it very best. Tourists are few and far between, village life carries on much as it has for centuries and adventure, excitement and discovery are guaranteed.The capital of Togo, Lomé enjoys a heady status as the former “jewel of West Africa” (although both Ghana and the Ivory Coast claim ownership of the title). With over 40 tribes calling the tiny city home, whether it is the jewel of West Africa or not, it is certainly the most diverse melting pot of cultures to be found on the west coast. This patchwork of population is best experienced in the capital, where the dizzying sight of vendors strolling with huge bags balanced on their heads and motorbikes beeping and slaloming between the traffic is a tangible lesson in modern day history! A trip around the daily market will have you discovering not only a treasure trove of different tribal traditions but will also have you bargaining for anything from thirst quenching fresh fruit and beautifully made fabrics to livestock and voodoo spirit dolls.Voodoo ceremonies are still widely seen all over Togo, and visitors that are lucky enough to witness one will definitely take home a souvenir worth remembering. These are not just for tourists but an ancient, deep religious practice that merges African and Christian beliefs and is said to rid you of the devil within.

If you’re sick of the usual beach resorts, then zesty Lomé will welcome you to a coastal destination that oozes with inimitable character. The former ‘Jewel of West Africa’ offers some wonderful beaches, and exports its delicious bounty of cocoa, coffee and pine kernels far and wide. A disorientating place, where stuttering engines and whizzing motorbikes add a chaotic essence to the city’s streets, you’ll see vendors strolling with supplies balanced improbably on their heads, along with a healthy supply of intrigue, adventure and buzzing markets. Swarms of bikes and motorbikes dominate the coastal road, which borders the huge, palm tree lined Lomé beach – but the sand is wide enough for you to relax with the road merely a distant whisper. A treasure trove of traditional masks and statues wait for you to explore inside the National Museum, while the characterful Monument de l’Independance honours the country’s sacrifices in its struggle for independence, and is a suitably defiant beacon of liberation.

Day itinerary:

If polished beach resorts with identikit sun loungers and beach menus are not quite your idea of experiential travel, then you have come to the right place. Because Lomé is authenticity at it very best. Tourists are few and far between, village life carries on much as it has for centuries and adventure, excitement and discovery are guaranteed.The capital of Togo, Lomé enjoys a heady status as the former “jewel of West Africa” (although both Ghana and the Ivory Coast claim ownership of the title). With over 40 tribes calling the tiny city home, whether it is the jewel of West Africa or not, it is certainly the most diverse melting pot of cultures to be found on the west coast. This patchwork of population is best experienced in the capital, where the dizzying sight of vendors strolling with huge bags balanced on their heads and motorbikes beeping and slaloming between the traffic is a tangible lesson in modern day history! A trip around the daily market will have you discovering not only a treasure trove of different tribal traditions but will also have you bargaining for anything from thirst quenching fresh fruit and beautifully made fabrics to livestock and voodoo spirit dolls.Voodoo ceremonies are still widely seen all over Togo, and visitors that are lucky enough to witness one will definitely take home a souvenir worth remembering. These are not just for tourists but an ancient, deep religious practice that merges African and Christian beliefs and is said to rid you of the devil within.

Ghana’s fourth-largest city plays serene beaches against a bustling commercial centre. People from around the world visit the shore, both for its beauty and to enjoy the fresh seafood served right on the sands. Frantic city life awaits a short distance inland, where an economy fuelled by Ghana’s oil industry is most apparent in the maze of vendors at Market Circle.

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The colours, chaos and the happy cacophony of street life greet you as you are welcomed in Takoradi (or Taadi to the locals). Internationally recognised as a major player on the world scene due to its prosperous oil and gas reserves, Takoradi is in fact and amalgamation of two cities. The plurality of these towns has given the town its dual personality — a beachside resort area, framed with uncrowded white sandy beaches and four-star hotels, and a busy traditional market, with street vendors selling a bewildering array of goods, piled high into metal basins or baskets and carried atop the vendor’s head. Suffice to say that these twin cities are infused with a vitality and history that is uncommon even in Africa. The panoramic beauty of the area is stunning; indulge in the subtle scents of jasmine, inhale the heady perfume of hibiscus and morahia, or admire the stark sketch of a royal palm set against a sapphire sky. Eco-tourists will be interested no doubt by the Monkey Hill reserve, a sanctuary for primates in danger set right in the heart of the city.An active fishing port, Takoradi’s sister city Sekondi gains its welfare from the sea. The industry supports millions of Ghanaians and fish is still caught in the traditional manner. Fishermen unload their catch from that morning or sit mending their nets in the boatyard while the womenfolk prepare and sell the fish to the local community on the harbour side.

From a modest fishing port to the biggest in Ghana, Tema’s industrial activity has all but tarnished the charming, postcard scenery of the region. The neighbouring white-sanded beaches remain immaculate, still serving as a testimony of the rich variety of fishing birds that can be found in the area.In the way Mother Nature intended it, gannets, boobies and kingfishers amongst other species fish in and around the cerulean waters of the coast. A light breeze tickles the inflamed, iron-filled soil of the mainland on which the railway linking Tema to Accra lures hundreds of visitors each day. On board one of the carriages to Accra, distinctively noticeable by their painted coats of red, yellow and green that echo Ghana’s national flag, a peek out of the window will offer scenic views of the harbour and coast, as well as the large fields that separate Tema from the capital by 15 miles/25 kilometres of open space.Accra’s ambiance contrasts with the peaceful setting of Tema, but nevertheless has its own charm to be enjoyed. Through rich, contemporary monuments which recall Ghana’s 1957 independence, the Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park is an architectural jewel which also narrates the life and exploits of the eponymous president who fought for his country’s freedom. A more casual but perhaps interesting approach to the City’s culture and history is the visit to an artisanal studio, where primary materials such as wood and metal are transformed into stunning carvings of all sorts, illustrating a traditional African belief of a new life beyond death. And for a relaxing yet enriching experience, the hospitable restaurants are always eager to share their Banku, a local dish made out of corn and served with fish or stew.Craft markets are also worth a detour and are great for cherry-picking souvenirs. Demonstrating other fine Ghanaian traditions such as leather crafting and weaving, a popular favourite is the country’s hand-made Black Soap, which is renowned for its soothing virtues.

Day itinerary:

From a modest fishing port to the biggest in Ghana Tema’s industrial activity has all but tarnished the charming postcard scenery of the region. The neighbouring white-sanded beaches remain immaculate still serving as a testimony of the rich variety of birds that can be found in the area.In the way Mother Nature intended it gannets boobies and kingfishers amongst other species fish in and around the cerulean waters of the coast. A light breeze tickles the inflamed iron-filled soil of the mainland on which the railway linking Tema to Accra lures hundreds of visitors each day. On board one of the carriages to Accra distinctively noticeable by their painted coats of red yellow and green that echo Ghana’s national flag a peek out of the window will offer scenic views of the harbour and coast as well as the fields that separate Tema from the capital.

From a modest fishing port to the biggest in Ghana, Tema’s industrial activity has all but tarnished the charming, postcard scenery of the region. The neighbouring white-sanded beaches remain immaculate, still serving as a testimony of the rich variety of fishing birds that can be found in the area.In the way Mother Nature intended it, gannets, boobies and kingfishers amongst other species fish in and around the cerulean waters of the coast. A light breeze tickles the inflamed, iron-filled soil of the mainland on which the railway linking Tema to Accra lures hundreds of visitors each day. On board one of the carriages to Accra, distinctively noticeable by their painted coats of red, yellow and green that echo Ghana’s national flag, a peek out of the window will offer scenic views of the harbour and coast, as well as the large fields that separate Tema from the capital by 15 miles/25 kilometres of open space.Accra’s ambiance contrasts with the peaceful setting of Tema, but nevertheless has its own charm to be enjoyed. Through rich, contemporary monuments which recall Ghana’s 1957 independence, the Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park is an architectural jewel which also narrates the life and exploits of the eponymous president who fought for his country’s freedom. A more casual but perhaps interesting approach to the City’s culture and history is the visit to an artisanal studio, where primary materials such as wood and metal are transformed into stunning carvings of all sorts, illustrating a traditional African belief of a new life beyond death. And for a relaxing yet enriching experience, the hospitable restaurants are always eager to share their Banku, a local dish made out of corn and served with fish or stew.Craft markets are also worth a detour and are great for cherry-picking souvenirs. Demonstrating other fine Ghanaian traditions such as leather crafting and weaving, a popular favourite is the country’s hand-made Black Soap, which is renowned for its soothing virtues.

Day itinerary:

From a modest fishing port to the biggest in Ghana Tema’s industrial activity has all but tarnished the charming postcard scenery of the region. The neighbouring white-sanded beaches remain immaculate still serving as a testimony of the rich variety of birds that can be found in the area.In the way Mother Nature intended it gannets boobies and kingfishers amongst other species fish in and around the cerulean waters of the coast. A light breeze tickles the inflamed iron-filled soil of the mainland on which the railway linking Tema to Accra lures hundreds of visitors each day. On board one of the carriages to Accra distinctively noticeable by their painted coats of red yellow and green that echo Ghana’s national flag a peek out of the window will offer scenic views of the harbour and coast as well as the fields that separate Tema from the capital.