Copenhagen to Hamburg

Stockholm is a city in the flush of its second youth. Since the mid-1990s, Sweden’s capital has emerged from its cold, Nordic shadow to take the stage as a truly international city. What started with entry into the European Union in 1995 gained pace with the extraordinary IT boom of the late 1990s, strengthened with the Skype-led IT second wave of 2003, and solidified with the hedge-fund invasion that is still happening today as Stockholm gains even more global confidence. And despite more recent economic turmoil, Stockholm’s 1 million or so inhabitants have, almost as one, realized that their city is one to rival Paris, London, New York, or any other great metropolis.With this realization comes change. Stockholm has become a city of design, fashion, innovation, technology, and world-class food, pairing homegrown talent with an international outlook. The streets are flowing with a young and confident population keen to drink in everything the city has to offer. The glittering feeling of optimism, success, and living in the here and now is rampant in Stockholm.Stockholm also has plenty of history. Positioned where the waters of Lake Mälaren rush into the Baltic, it’s been an important trading site and a wealthy international city for centuries. Built on 14 islands joined by bridges crossing open bays and narrow channels, Stockholm boasts the story of its history in its glorious medieval old town, grand palaces, ancient churches, sturdy edifices, public parks, and 19th-century museums—its history is soaked into the very fabric of its airy boulevards, built as a public display of trading glory.

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Stylish Stockholm has enough to occupy you for a lifetime from cathedral-like food markets to simmering baths and natural escapes. Visit the staggeringly beautiful interior of Stockholm’s City Hall or learn more about one of Sweden’s best-known exports – with a visit to the ABBA museum. The history is deep and the architecture typically stylish as you explore this capital of Scandi cool. The Gamla Stan old town is a storied historic core of cobbled streets and brightly hued towering townhouses standing side by side. Attractive squares fill with the smells of fried herring from traditional restaurants while the latest culinary trends sweep through the city’s revered kitchens. Breathe in the crisp clean air and relish the tranquillity and atmosphere of a truly great and grand Baltic city. Stockholm’s visitors and residents spill outdoors in the summertime to the city’s beaches and the archipelago’s scattering of 24 000 islands and islets nearby. Steamboats puff scenic routes between them. Stockholm itself sprawls across 14 islands interlinked with dozens of arching bridges. Shimmering canals and leafy green parks offer peace and sanctuary within the city while trendy bars coffee shops and rooftop cocktail joints add to the hip and happening appeal. Stockholm’s bustling shopping streets also showcase cutting edge trends for the fashion-conscious.

Mariehamn is the capital of the fractured Åland Islands, an autonomous region of Finland, which encompasses some 6,700 islands and skerries, which spray out across the Gulf of Bothnia towards Sweden. There’s ample opportunity to stretch your legs here, with every outdoor activity imaginable available, and you can breathe in the freshest sea air you’ve ever tasted, as you kayak between islands, stroll flower-speckled fields, and sizzle in outdoor hot tubs. Known for being one of the Baltic’s sunniest destinations, you’ll also find a healthy supply of charming beaches, where you can lap up the rays. The region serves as a gateway to the Gulf, and has been a key witness to countless struggles and tussles over the years. It has a proud maritime heritage, and you can take a voyage through the exhibitions of the Aland Maritime Museum to learn more. See the genuine pirate flag on display – which is one of only three known to still be in existence. Its ominous skull and crossbones are sure to shiver your timbers. You can also experience life aboard an ocean-faring ship from Mariehamn’s past, as you climb aboard the mighty, four-masted Pommern windjammer ship, which was donated to the museum once World War II had concluded.

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Sprinkled across the Baltic Sea between Sweden and Finland, no fewer than 6,700 islands and skerries make up this archipelago, which boasts rich seafaring tradition. Settled between the mighty Baltic sea capitals of Stockholm and Helsinki, Mariehamn is the comparatively pocket-sized capital of the Åland Islands, and a place of low-key, breezy appeal.Discover a walkable town’s streets where flowerbeds bloom, peacocks strut, and hammers tap away in traditional craft shops. Summer nights at this latitude are long and leisurely, with the sun barely taking rest during the midnight sun’s months. Blessed with extra hours, make excellent use of them by lounging in the cafes, or enjoying the hikes, beaches and wholesome foods of this fractured, confetti-spread archipelago. Named as one of Finland’s best museums, Åland’s maritime museum is a seafaring voyage through the islands’ proud traditions – where you can see a genuine skull and crossbones flag – which once flew above a pirate ship – before stepping aboard the Pommern windjammer ship museum.The capital’s Western Harbour was once home to the world’s largest fleet of wooden sea-sailing ships, which traded around the world. Leisurely, signposted walks along the coastline will provide more details on this illustrious history. The islands have also been treacherous over the years, however, and hundreds of wrecks rest below the waves, tempting scuba divers to explore. It was in the skeletal confines of one doomed ship where the world’s oldest champagne was discovered in 2010. Some of the prized bottles, dating back to the 1840s, are now on display in the town’s museum.

A city of the sea, Helsinki was built along a series of oddly shaped peninsulas and islands jutting into the Baltic coast along the Gulf of Finland. Streets and avenues curve around bays, bridges reach to nearby islands, and ferries ply among offshore islands.Having grown dramatically since World War II, Helsinki now absorbs more than one-tenth of the Finnish population. The metro area covers 764 square km (474 square miles) and 315 islands. Most sights, hotels, and restaurants cluster on one peninsula, forming a compact central hub. The greater Helsinki metropolitan area, which includes Espoo and Vantaa, has a total population of more than a million people.Helsinki is a relatively young city compared with other European capitals. In the 16th century, King Gustav Vasa of Sweden decided to woo trade from the Estonian city of Tallinn and thus challenge the Hanseatic League’s monopoly on Baltic trade. Accordingly, he commanded the people of four Finnish towns to pack up their belongings and relocate to the rapids on the River Vantaa. The new town, founded on June 12, 1550, was named Helsinki.For three centuries, Helsinki (Helsingfors in Swedish) had its ups and downs as a trading town. Turku, to the west, remained Finland’s capital and intellectual center. However, Helsinki’s fortunes improved when Finland fell under Russian rule as an autonomous grand duchy. Czar Alexander I wanted Finland’s political center closer to Russia and, in 1812, selected Helsinki as the new capital. Shortly afterward, Turku suffered a disastrous fire, forcing the university to move to Helsinki. The town’s future was secure.Just before the czar’s proclamation, a fire destroyed many of Helsinki’s traditional wooden structures, precipitating the construction of new buildings suitable for a nation’s capital. The German-born architect Carl Ludvig Engel was commissioned to rebuild the city, and as a result, Helsinki has some of the purest neoclassical architecture in the world. Add to this foundation the influence of Stockholm and St. Petersburg with the local inspiration of 20th-century Finnish design, and the result is a European capital city that is as architecturally eye-catching as it is distinct from other Scandinavian capitals. You are bound to discover endless engaging details—a grimacing gargoyle; a foursome of males supporting a balcony’s weight on their shoulders; a building painted in striking colors with contrasting flowers in the windows. The city’s 400 or so parks make it particularly inviting in summer.Today, Helsinki is still a meeting point of eastern and western Europe, which is reflected in its cosmopolitan image, the influx of Russians and Estonians, and generally multilingual population. Outdoor summer bars (“terrassit” as the locals call them) and cafés in the city center are perfect for people watching on a summer afternoon.

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A thriving flawlessly-designed seaside city Helsinki is famously livable and inspiring. A regional powerhouse of outstanding design and creativity Helsinki lies across a confetti scattering of 300 islands and skerries in the Gulf of Finland. Known for the light granite hue of its buildings – which lend the city a bright whitewashed appearance – traditional buildings mingle seamlessly with bold new structures showcasing Finland’s celebrated design outlook. Helsinki Cathedral is the crowning glory – rising high over the city’s waterfront with its pearly white domes gleaming.   A city that reveres knowledge and creativity above all else artworks and statues litter the streets and parks honouring creative minds of the past. Open parks offer space to lie back and soak up summer’s sun while sculptures like the abstract organs of the Sibelius Monument celebrate national heroes like composer Jean Sibelius – whose music gave Finland national identity in the quest for independence. Feel the stunning acoustics of the incredible Rock Church deep in your gut as you witness a performance in this collaboration between man and nature. Helsinki’s easy-going forward-thinking way of life was hard fought for and the spectacular Suomenlinna fortress rears out of the waves as a reminder of the historical struggles that have played out in this stretch of sea. Sail out to the quaint little beaches and waterfront pathways that now lend a calm peaceful ambience to this UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Estonia’s history is sprinkled liberally with long stretches of foreign domination, beginning in 1219 with the Danes, followed without interruption by the Germans, Swedes, and Russians. Only after World War I, with Russia in revolutionary wreckage, was Estonia able to declare its independence. Shortly before World War II, in 1940, that independence was usurped by the Soviets, who—save for a brief three-year occupation by Hitler’s Nazis—proceeded to suppress all forms of national Estonian pride for the next 50 years. Estonia finally regained independence in 1991. In the early 1990s, Estonia’s own Riigikogu (Parliament), not some other nation’s puppet ruler, handed down from the Upper City reforms that forced Estonia to blaze its post-Soviet trail to the European Union. Estonia has been a member of the EU since 2004, and in 2011, the country and its growing economy joined the Eurozone. Tallinn was also named the European City of Culture in 2011, cementing its growing reputation as a cultural hot spot.

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A fairytale city of new and old Tallinn boasts one of the best-preserved UNESCO listed old towns in Northern Europe and balances the traditional and contemporary astutely. A beautiful Baltic capital of storied culture and history Tallinn is riding the wave of a burgeoning reputation as Europe’s hidden gem and it boasts a picturesque allure that few cities can rival. The European City of Culture award in 2011 was a symbol of the country’s increasing integration with the European Union and offered Tallinn a chance to showcase and upgrade its cultural marvels. Walk into the old town through Viru Gates past flower vendors and the smells of roasting nuts. Town Hall Square is the heart and soul of Tallinn and when you walk the narrow cobbled streets that open out into it you’re walking the same pathways that Tallinn’s people have walked since the 13th century. Surrounded by practically complete medieval walls lose yourself in deep museums and visit pretty churches like St. Olaf church – one of the city’s most famous with its sharp green spire puncturing the sky. Head to Kohtuotsa platform in the upper town for views of the city’s sea of red roofs interrupted by church towers and rounded turrets. From here climb Toompea Castle’s central hill before visiting the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral – easily recognisable by its bold colours and trio of black onion domes.

Estonia’s history is sprinkled liberally with long stretches of foreign domination, beginning in 1219 with the Danes, followed without interruption by the Germans, Swedes, and Russians. Only after World War I, with Russia in revolutionary wreckage, was Estonia able to declare its independence. Shortly before World War II, in 1940, that independence was usurped by the Soviets, who—save for a brief three-year occupation by Hitler’s Nazis—proceeded to suppress all forms of national Estonian pride for the next 50 years. Estonia finally regained independence in 1991. In the early 1990s, Estonia’s own Riigikogu (Parliament), not some other nation’s puppet ruler, handed down from the Upper City reforms that forced Estonia to blaze its post-Soviet trail to the European Union. Estonia has been a member of the EU since 2004, and in 2011, the country and its growing economy joined the Eurozone. Tallinn was also named the European City of Culture in 2011, cementing its growing reputation as a cultural hot spot.

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A fairytale city of new and old Tallinn boasts one of the best-preserved UNESCO listed old towns in Northern Europe and balances the traditional and contemporary astutely. A beautiful Baltic capital of storied culture and history Tallinn is riding the wave of a burgeoning reputation as Europe’s hidden gem and it boasts a picturesque allure that few cities can rival. The European City of Culture award in 2011 was a symbol of the country’s increasing integration with the European Union and offered Tallinn a chance to showcase and upgrade its cultural marvels. Walk into the old town through Viru Gates past flower vendors and the smells of roasting nuts. Town Hall Square is the heart and soul of Tallinn and when you walk the narrow cobbled streets that open out into it you’re walking the same pathways that Tallinn’s people have walked since the 13th century. Surrounded by practically complete medieval walls lose yourself in deep museums and visit pretty churches like St. Olaf church – one of the city’s most famous with its sharp green spire puncturing the sky. Head to Kohtuotsa platform in the upper town for views of the city’s sea of red roofs interrupted by church towers and rounded turrets. From here climb Toompea Castle’s central hill before visiting the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral – easily recognisable by its bold colours and trio of black onion domes.

Gotland is Sweden’s main holiday island, a place of ancient history, a relaxed summer-party vibe, wide sandy beaches, and wild cliff formations called raukar (the remnants of reefs formed more than 400 million years ago). Measuring 125 km (78 miles) long and 52 km (32 miles) at its widest point, Gotland is where Swedish sheep farming has its home. In its charming glades, 35 varieties of wild orchids thrive, attracting botanists from all over the world.

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Sweden’s holiday island of choice Visby is a pretty medieval city that has been delightfully frozen in time. A dramatically walled Hanseatic trading centre Visby faces out across a 60-mile gulf towards the Swedish mainland. An island of sparse scenic landscapes Gotland is dotted with quiet fishing villages roaming sheep and unusual limestone natural structures. With beautiful beaches as well as spell-binding history crowds from across Scandanavia and beyond set sail for these escapist shores every summer. Set on the Baltic Sea’s largest island the steep medieval walls of Visby are at once a gorgeously picturesque and incredibly imposing welcome to this UNESCO World Heritage Site. The oldest section the red-roof capped Gunpowder Tower is one of Sweden’s oldest surviving constructions. Inside the walls the elegant Cathedral of St. Mary’s rises with its pair of pepper-pot towers. Visby has an irresistible tangle of medieval streets with photo-opportunities waiting around every narrow bend. The scattering of ruined churches adds another layer of eerie beauty while a splash of colour is provided by blooming botanical gardens thriving within the island’s mild climate. A place of rich history visit museums to learn the island’s whole story – from its formation to the ancient inhabitants who have occupied its shores. For the best view head to Hogklint – a coastal cliff area on the south of Visby. Or explore the island via beautiful coastal bike trails.

Rīga has an upscale, big-city feel unmatched in the region. The capital (almost as large as Tallinn and Vilnius combined) is the business center of the area while original, high-quality restaurants and hotels have earned Rīga some bragging rights among its Western European counterparts. The city also doesn’t lack for beauty—Rīga’s Old Town (now a UNESCO World Heritage site) is one of Europe’s most striking examples of the art nouveau architectural style. Long avenues of complex and sometimes whimsical Jugendstil facades hint at Rīga’s grand past. Many were designed by Mikhail Eisenstein, the father of Soviet director Sergei. This style dominates the city center. In many ways, the wonder of Rīga resides less in its individual attractions and more in the fabric of the town itself. In the medieval Old Town, an ornate gable or architrave catches the eye at every turn. The somber and the flamboyant are both represented in this quarter’s 1,000 years of architectural history. Don’t hesitate to just follow where your desire leads—the Old Town is compact and bounded by canals, so it’s difficult to get totally lost. When the Old Town eventually became too crowded, the city burst out into the newer inner suburbs. The rich could afford to leave and build themselves fine fashionable mansions in the style of the day; consequently, city planners created a whole new Rīga. Across the narrow canal, you’ll find the Esplanāde, a vast expanse of parkland with formal gardens and period mansions where the well-heeled stroll and play. Surrounding this is the art nouveau district. Encompassing avenues of splendid family homes (now spruced up in the postcommunist era), the collection has been praised by UNESCO as Europe’s finest in the art nouveau style. The best examples are at Alberta 2, 2a, 4, 6, 8, and 13; Elizabetes 10b; and Strēlnieku 4a. If the weather permits, eschew public transport and stroll between the two districts, taking in the varied skylines and multifaceted facades, and perhaps stopping at a café or two as you go. The city has churches in five Christian denominations and more than 50 museums, many of which cater to eclectic or specialist tastes.

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Centred around a charming UNESCO World Heritage Site listed Old Town Latvia’s capital is a quirky and artistic place – with an extensive collection of gleaming art-deco architecture. With a quirky underbelly and beautifully preserved fairytale architecture it’s no wonder Riga is affectionately known as the Baltic Berlin. Ascend the tower of St. Peter’s Church for a view down over the gingerbread-architecture below. The House of Blackheads is one of the city’s standouts a historic trade guild’s meeting place it adds grace and grandeur to the spacious town square. The much-photographed Three Brothers lean together with their pastel-shaded facades and idiosyncratic personalities. Look out across the River Daugava for an example of modern Riga – the steel and glass of the National Library building. The Freedom Monument stands a full 42 meters tall and is a proud statue marking Lativa’s incredibly hard-won independence. Cavernous hangers – that once housed bomber zeppelins from the First World War – now host one of Europe’s biggest and best food markets. Soak up the smells and sights of Riga Central Market where you can taste pickles smoked herring and piragis – local rolls stuffed with bacon. Take time out in brightly painted cafes and flower-laced courtyards which serve up refreshments and dizzyingly strong self-brewed craft beers. Or head to the greenery of Bastejkalna Park to stroll the banks of the canal and over ornate bridges.

Warnemünde, officially a suburb of Rostock, is a quaint seaside resort town with the best hotels and restaurants in the area, as well as 20 km (12 miles) of beautiful white-sand beach. It’s been a popular summer getaway for families in eastern Germany for years.There is little to do in Warnemünde except relax, and the town excels brilliantly at that. However, Warnemünde is a major cruise-ship terminal. Whenever there is more than one ship at dock, the town explodes with a county fair–like atmosphere, and shops and restaurants stay open until the ships leave at midnight. The city celebrates the dreifache Anlauf, when three ships dock simultaneously, with fireworks.

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Warnemünde, officially a suburb of Rostock, is a quaint seaside resort town with the best hotels and restaurants in the area, as well as 20 km (12 miles) of beautiful white-sand beach. It’s been a popular summer getaway for families in eastern Germany for years.There is little to do in Warnemünde except relax, and the town excels brilliantly at that. However, Warnemünde is a major cruise-ship terminal. Whenever there is more than one ship at dock, the town explodes with a county fair–like atmosphere, and shops and restaurants stay open until the ships leave at midnight. The city celebrates the dreifache Anlauf, when three ships dock simultaneously, with fireworks.

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One of the world’s great canals the 60-mile-long Kiel Canal provides a spectacular water shortcut through Northern Europe. Opened in 1895 following eight years of construction at the hands of 9 000 men it has been upgraded twice since to serve the growth of both the ships it can accommodate and the rise in demand. The long waterway links the North Sea with the Baltic and this engineering marvel is now one of the world’s busiest shipping routes. Sparing ships from an arduous 280-mile journey around the sometimes challenging waters of the Danish peninsula. Ships from pleasure yachts to giant tankers cruise the gently curving artificial waterway – which is fringed by walls of forest green fields and occasional soaring bridges. The western entrance branches off from the mouth of the Elbe river at Brunsbüttel and you’ll easily spot the eastern entrance at Kiel-Holtenau where you are saluted by a Venetian bell tower as you sail the town’s fjord. Huge locks raise and lower the water level at the entrances and the leisurely transit takes roughly eight hours with plenty to look out for along the way. The Rendsburg High Bridge is a spectacular structure spanning the wide canal. It features a hanging gondola which can swing people and vehicles across from one side of the bank to the other. More recently the dramatic archway of the Levensau High Bridge was added.

Hamburg is Germany’s second-largest city with a history dating back to Charlemagne. A major port, this vibrant city is home to art and culture, extensive shopping facilities, Baroque buildings and waterfront vistas. With its well-known fish market, art galleries and Museums together with several beautiful parks including a botanical garden, this is a city with something for everyone. British visitors who remember the Swinging Sixties may like to visit the streets around Grosse Freiheit, where an unknown pop group called The Beatles gave their first public performances in various local clubs before achieving worldwide fame.

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Nestled snugly between the Baltic and North seas Germany’s second-biggest city is intersected by a frayed network of rivers and canals spanned by hundreds of pretty bridges. This quirky heritage-filled city has a distinct character and open outlook all of its own and continues to relish its role as Germany’s gateway to the world. The water brought Hamburg its wealth and vast redbrick warehouses stack up against the waterfront in the Speicherstadt district – now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. They linger from the era when the city was a Hanseatic League trading capital and the warehouses essentially formed a city unto themselves with goods brought and exchanged from distant shores. Elsewhere the Reeperbahn is a notorious and unabashed street of nocturnal mischief with shifty neon-lit nightclubs in amongst the city’s famous red-light district. Hamburg has a much more wholesome side too however and is a powerhouse of museums theatre and culture. It’s littered with over 100 music venues and the city played a crucial role in The Beatles’ early story. The spectacular Elbphilharmonie concert hall with its wavy surrealistic interior is a work of art in and of itself. The city has been named a European Green Capital and the vast Lake Alster adds to the airy pleasant atmosphere providing a spacious oasis of tranquillity. Planten un Blomen is another burst of zesty colour where fountains fan out and lilypads float on rhododendron-lined lakes.