Fall Foliage on the St. Lawrence: Québec to the Canadian Maritimes – with Smithsonian Journeys

Canada’s most diverse metropolis, Montréal, is an island city that favors style and elegance over order or even prosperity, a city where past and present intrude on each other daily. In some ways it resembles Vienna—well past its peak of power and glory, perhaps, yet still vibrant and grand.But don’t get the wrong idea. Montréal has always had a bit of an edge. During Prohibition, thirsty Americans headed north to the city on the St. Lawrence for booze, music, and a good time, and people still come for the same things. Summer festivals celebrate everything from comedy and French music and culture to beer and fireworks, and, of course, jazz. And on those rare weeks when there isn’t a planned event, the party continues. Clubs and sidewalk cafés are abuzz from late afternoon to the early hours of the morning. And Montréal is a city that knows how to mix it up even when it’s 20 below zero. Rue St-Denis is almost as lively on a Saturday night in January as it is in July, and the festival Montréal en Lumière, or Montréal Highlights, enlivens the dreary days of February with concerts, balls, and fine food.Montréal takes its name from Parc du Mont-Royal, a stubby plug of tree-covered igneous rock that rises 764 feet above the surrounding cityscape. Although its height is unimpressive, “the Mountain” forms one of Canada’s finest urban parks, and views from the Chalet du Mont-Royal atop the hill provide an excellent orientation to the city’s layout and major landmarks.Old Montréal is home to museums, the municipal government, and the magnificent Basilique Notre-Dame-de-Montréal within its network of narrow, cobblestone streets. Although Montréal’s centre-ville, or Downtown, bustles like many other major cities on the surface, it’s active below street level as well, in the so-called Underground City–-the underground levels of shopping malls and food courts connected by pedestrian tunnels and the city’s subway system, or métro. Residential Plateau Mont-Royal and trendy neighborhoods are abuzz with restaurants, nightclubs, art galleries, and cafés. The greener areas of town are composed of the Parc du Mont-Royal and the Jardin Botanique.

Québec City’s alluring setting atop Cape Diamond (Cap Diamant) evokes a past of high adventure, military history, and exploration. This French-speaking capital city is the only walled city north of Mexico. Visitors come for the delicious and inventive cuisine, the remarkable historical continuity, and to share in the seasonal exuberance of the largest Francophone population outside France.The historic heart of this community is the Old City (Vieux-Québec), comprising the part of Upper Town (Haute-Ville) surrounded by walls and Lower Town (Basse-Ville), which spreads out at the base of the hill from Place Royale. Many sets of staircases and the popular funicular link the top of the hill with the bottom. Cobblestone streets, horse-drawn carriages, and elaborate cathedrals here are charming in all seasons. The Old City earned recognition as an official UNESCO World Heritage site in 1985, thanks largely to city planners who managed to update and preserve the 400-year-old buildings and attractions without destroying what made them worth preserving. The most familiar icon of the city, Fairmont Château Frontenac, is set on the highest point in Upper Town, where it holds court over the entire city.Sitting proudly above the confluence of the St. Lawrence and St. Charles rivers, the city’s famous military fortification, La Citadelle, built in the early 19th century, remains the largest of its kind in North America. In summer, visitors should try to catch the Changing of the Guard, held every morning at 10 am; you can get much closer to the guards here than at Buckingham Palace in London.Enchanting as it is, the Old City is just a small part of the true Québec City experience. Think outside the walls and explore St-Roch, a downtown hot spot, which has artsy galleries, foodie haunts, and a bustling square. Cruise the Grande-Allée and avenue Cartier to find a livelier part of town dotted with nightclubs and fun eateries. Or while away the hours in St-Jean-Baptiste, a neighborhood with trendy shops and hipster hangouts.

Just after visiting Saguenay, the wonderful Saguenay River pours into the massive St. Lawrence River. Before then, however, it slices through one of the world’s most southerly fjords and dense forests of towering pine trees. The nature watching here is nothing short of sublime, with outdoor spots like the Parc National du Fjord-du-Saguenay offering panoramic vistas and sandy river-beaches. Island-sized blue whales cruise through the waters of the mighty rivers, and flick gallons of water into the air effortlessly with a single swish of their colossal tails. With hiking, kayaking and cycling opportunities inviting you to explore the spectacular scenery – you’ll find endless ways to fall in love with this majestic outdoor escape. In fall, gorgeous colours ripple through the foliage, and in doing so, they provide one of nature’s greatest performances.

The discovery of these parts of Canada, inhabited at one time by Micmac Indians, by French explorers made Percé a stop-off point between Québec City and France. In the 17th century Percé developed into a bustling port with hundreds of boats anchored in the summer season. During the English campaign against Québec, the small village was burned down by the English. Afterwards, Percé was forgotten for almost half a century. Following the Treaty of Versailles, reconstruction began; by 1777 Percé addedl 400 seasonal fishermen to its year-round population of 300. In 1781 Charles Robin founded a fishing business that prospered rapidly and generated new interest in Percé.Today this charming fishing village is as a prime holiday spot, thanks to its gargantuan limestone rock which rears up from the sea just a stone’s throw off the coast. The Roche Percé”measures 1,545 feet in length and 288 feet in height and stands as a protector against wind and ocean forces. It originally featured two holes. One of them disappeared when a part of the rock crumbled in 1845, giving way to its present shape. The rock is considered one of Canada’s most celebrated natural phenomena; it presents an almost surreal sight at dawn.Little remains of the original buildings of the 17th-century fishing village due to the long, harsh winter weather. Charles Robin’s house survived and serves as a guest house. Now the village features a number of craft shops, art galleries, and a pleasantly relaxed atmosphere endearing to visitors. Outside of town visit isolated lighthouses and enjoy a drive through bucolic countryside dotted with small farms and pastures.Bonaventure Island, renowned as a bird sanctuary, is two miles from the mainland. The high cliffs of the 1.6-square-mile island teem with bird colonies, including the world’s largest and most accessible colony of gannets. Other species include puffins, cormorants, kittiwakes and razorbills who come here to nest in this preservation area. Walking trails lead around the island for a closer look at this fascinating bird sanctuary. Pier Information The ship will be anchored off Percé and guests will be taken ashore via the ship’s tenders. The jetty is within close walking distance to the village. There are a limited number of taxis available for trips farther afield. Shopping Several small souvenir shops and art galleries offer a nice selection of local handicrafts and artwork. Hand-knit sweaters and woolen items may also be of interest. The local currency is the Canadian dollar. Cuisine Several rustic eateries throughout the village offer fresh seafood and typical hearty fare. If you are looking for a first-class restaurant try the Auberge du Gargantua, about a mile west of town. Other Sites Visitors can take local boat trips around Bonaventure Island. Stroll through this charming village and along its seaside boardwalk. Gaspésian LighthousesOnly two of the many lighthouses scattered along the coast of the Gaspé peninsula are still in use today. One of them stands at Cap d’Espoir some eight miles from Percé. It was built of wood in 1874; the present structure dates from 1939. It is 48 feet high and is open for visitors. The second lighthouse is located at Cap Blanc. It was also installed in 1874 and rebuilt in 1959.

Designated as the Island capital in 1765, Charlottetown is both PEI’s oldest and largest urban center. However, since the whole “metropolitan” area only has a population of about 65,000, a pleasing small-town atmosphere remains. The city is a winner appearance-wise as well. Peppered with gingerbread-clad homes, converted warehouses, striking churches, and monumental government buildings, Charlottetown’s core seems relatively unchanged from its 19th-century heyday when it hosted the conference that led to the formation of Canada. The city is understandably proud of its role as the “Birthplace of Confederation” and, in summer, downtown streets are dotted with people dressed as personages from the past who’ll regale you with tales about the Confederation debate.

Baddeck is the most highly developed tourist center in Cape Breton. Situated at the start of the famous Cabot Trail, the town of 1,064 inhabitants enjoys an international reputation as a fine resort. Baddeck has long been associated with the great inventor Alexander Graham Bell, who built a home here in 1885; it is still owned by his family. While traveling by steamer through the Bras d’Or Lakes, Bell was captivated by the region’s scenic beauty. One of Baddeck’s most notable attractions includes the Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site, featuring the accomplishments of the famed inventor.The resort is the main town on Bras d’Or Lakes. The area surrounding Baddeck, with steep mountains, rocky inlets and dense forests, is often compared to the Scottish Highlands. The Bras d’Or Lakes, a vast, almost-landlocked inlet of the sea, attracts people from all over the world to cruise the serene, unspoiled coves and islands. Many of the early settlers of this part of Nova Scotia actually came here from Scotland; their cultural heritage has been retained in many ways. St. Ann’s is the home of North America’s only Gaelic College, and the Nova Scotia Highland Village provides insight into Highland Scots’ way of life. Pier Information The ship will be docked at the main pier. Most of Baddeck is within easy walking distance. A few taxis are available for trips further afield. Shopping Regional handicrafts are found in upscale gift shops and art galleries. The currency is the Canadian dollar. Cuisine Lobster and seafood are a good choice, as are dishes with a Scottish flavor. There are a number of restaurants to choose from. Other Sites Alexander Graham Bell National Historic SiteThe site is a tribute to the great inventor who spent his summers in Baddeck and is buried on the mountain top above his mansion. About 1/4 mile from the pier up on the hillside, the museum features three exhibit halls that tell the story of Bell’s incredible life and work, including a display about the invention of the telephone. People of all ages find visiting here an entertaining and educational experience. Following the Silversea Experience there will be a shuttle service available between the pier and the Museum. The entrance fee is $2.50 per person.Gaelic College About 12 miles away at St. Ann’s is the home of North America’s only Gaelic College, with the Great Hall of the Clans and a Scottish gift shop.Bell Bay Golf ClubThis new world-class course, located a short distance beyond the Alexander Graham Bell Museum, should be in full operation by the time the Silver Cloud calls at Baddeck. Guests interested in playing may inquire with the Tour Manager on board about details and advance reservations.The Cabot TrailThis 184-mile-long highway is named after John Cabot, the great navigator and explorer who fist sighted Cape Breton Island in 1497. It is noted for its exceptional natural beauty. The tour of the Cabot Trail requires a minimum of 7 hours so we are unable to offer it during our stay in Baddeck.

Louisbourg, Nova Scotia, is a thriving seaport located on the eastern tip of Cape Breton Island. French settlers first arrived in Louisbourg in 1713, using the island as a base for their lucrative cod fishery. Soon, the town became one of the busiest harbours in North America and an important trading outpost and military hub. They named it Louisbourg, in honour of King Louis XIV. The fortress was built to defend against the threat of a British invasion. After two major attacks, the fortress was destroyed in the 1760’s. In 1961 the Canadian Government commenced a $25 million reconstruction project to restore portions of the fortress to its pre-siege glory of the 1740’s. It was the largest reconstruction project in North America. The lighthouse was Canada’s first, constructed in 1734, but was severely damaged during the last siege and was abandoned in 1758. The existing lighthouse was built in 1923.

There’s history and culture around every bend in Boston—skyscrapers nestle next to historic hotels while modern marketplaces line the antique cobblestone streets. But to Bostonians, living in a city that blends yesterday and today is just another day in beloved Beantown.