James Beard Foundation: Southeast Canadian Explorations

Québec City’s alluring setting atop Cape Diamond (Cap Diamant) evokes a past of high adventure, military history, and exploration. This French-speaking capital city is the only walled city north of Mexico. Visitors come for the delicious and inventive cuisine, the remarkable historical continuity, and to share in the seasonal exuberance of the largest Francophone population outside France.The historic heart of this community is the Old City (Vieux-Québec), comprising the part of Upper Town (Haute-Ville) surrounded by walls and Lower Town (Basse-Ville), which spreads out at the base of the hill from Place Royale. Many sets of staircases and the popular funicular link the top of the hill with the bottom. Cobblestone streets, horse-drawn carriages, and elaborate cathedrals here are charming in all seasons. The Old City earned recognition as an official UNESCO World Heritage site in 1985, thanks largely to city planners who managed to update and preserve the 400-year-old buildings and attractions without destroying what made them worth preserving. The most familiar icon of the city, Fairmont Château Frontenac, is set on the highest point in Upper Town, where it holds court over the entire city.Sitting proudly above the confluence of the St. Lawrence and St. Charles rivers, the city’s famous military fortification, La Citadelle, built in the early 19th century, remains the largest of its kind in North America. In summer, visitors should try to catch the Changing of the Guard, held every morning at 10 am; you can get much closer to the guards here than at Buckingham Palace in London.Enchanting as it is, the Old City is just a small part of the true Québec City experience. Think outside the walls and explore St-Roch, a downtown hot spot, which has artsy galleries, foodie haunts, and a bustling square. Cruise the Grande-Allée and avenue Cartier to find a livelier part of town dotted with nightclubs and fun eateries. Or while away the hours in St-Jean-Baptiste, a neighborhood with trendy shops and hipster hangouts.

Day itinerary:

A focal point of French culture and one of North America’s oldest and most beautiful cities, Quebec City sits above the St. Lawrence River on a rocky spur with 328-foot cliffs. This French-speaking city was established in 1608 with the only fortified city walls remaining in America north of Mexico, and declared a UNESCO World Heritage City. The Old Town is packed with museums, cobblestone streets and mansard-roofed houses begging to be explored. Other historic attractions include the Fairmont Chateau Frontenac, Notre Dame Basilica, Battlefields Park and Terrasse Dufferin.

Québec City’s alluring setting atop Cape Diamond (Cap Diamant) evokes a past of high adventure, military history, and exploration. This French-speaking capital city is the only walled city north of Mexico. Visitors come for the delicious and inventive cuisine, the remarkable historical continuity, and to share in the seasonal exuberance of the largest Francophone population outside France.The historic heart of this community is the Old City (Vieux-Québec), comprising the part of Upper Town (Haute-Ville) surrounded by walls and Lower Town (Basse-Ville), which spreads out at the base of the hill from Place Royale. Many sets of staircases and the popular funicular link the top of the hill with the bottom. Cobblestone streets, horse-drawn carriages, and elaborate cathedrals here are charming in all seasons. The Old City earned recognition as an official UNESCO World Heritage site in 1985, thanks largely to city planners who managed to update and preserve the 400-year-old buildings and attractions without destroying what made them worth preserving. The most familiar icon of the city, Fairmont Château Frontenac, is set on the highest point in Upper Town, where it holds court over the entire city.Sitting proudly above the confluence of the St. Lawrence and St. Charles rivers, the city’s famous military fortification, La Citadelle, built in the early 19th century, remains the largest of its kind in North America. In summer, visitors should try to catch the Changing of the Guard, held every morning at 10 am; you can get much closer to the guards here than at Buckingham Palace in London.Enchanting as it is, the Old City is just a small part of the true Québec City experience. Think outside the walls and explore St-Roch, a downtown hot spot, which has artsy galleries, foodie haunts, and a bustling square. Cruise the Grande-Allée and avenue Cartier to find a livelier part of town dotted with nightclubs and fun eateries. Or while away the hours in St-Jean-Baptiste, a neighborhood with trendy shops and hipster hangouts.

Day itinerary:

A focal point of French culture and one of North America’s oldest and most beautiful cities, Quebec City sits above the St. Lawrence River on a rocky spur with 328-foot cliffs. This French-speaking city was established in 1608 with the only fortified city walls remaining in America north of Mexico, and declared a UNESCO World Heritage City. The Old Town is packed with museums, cobblestone streets and mansard-roofed houses begging to be explored. Other historic attractions include the Fairmont Chateau Frontenac, Notre Dame Basilica, Battlefields Park and Terrasse Dufferin.

Day itinerary:

Four hundred miles northeast of Quebec City lies Gaspe, one of National Geographic’s Canada’s 50 Places of a Lifetime. This wonderful wilderness area is home to four national parks; Perce Rock; North America’s largest gannet colony; lighthouses and remarkable historic sites. Visit the modern cathedral built almost entirely of wood and make sure to try some of the local specialties such as French-styled lobsters and game.

Day itinerary:

With its village main street and many restaurants and bars, charming Cap aux Meules is the gateway to the Magdalen Islands Archipelago located in the middle of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The port bustles with fishing boats, ferries, and a well-equipped marina offering a huge travel lift crane for dry dock. Sites to see include the church of St. Pierre, constructed from the wreckage of ships and the lighthouse which now warns of the offshore shoals.

Louisbourg, Nova Scotia, is a thriving seaport located on the eastern tip of Cape Breton Island. French settlers first arrived in Louisbourg in 1713, using the island as a base for their lucrative cod fishery. Soon, the town became one of the busiest harbours in North America and an important trading outpost and military hub. They named it Louisbourg, in honour of King Louis XIV. The fortress was built to defend against the threat of a British invasion. After two major attacks, the fortress was destroyed in the 1760’s. In 1961 the Canadian Government commenced a $25 million reconstruction project to restore portions of the fortress to its pre-siege glory of the 1740’s. It was the largest reconstruction project in North America. The lighthouse was Canada’s first, constructed in 1734, but was severely damaged during the last siege and was abandoned in 1758. The existing lighthouse was built in 1923.

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First occupied by the Mi’kmaw people, Louisbourg sits on the rocky shoreline of Cape Breton. This modern town has an impressive fortress, interesting walking trails, and fishing wharves bringing in amazing fresh seafood. In this beautiful setting sites to see include the winding Havenside Road, Lighthouse Point, the beaches of Kennington Cove and the Sydney & Louisburg Railway Museum.

Surrounded by natural treasures and glorious seascapes, Halifax is an attractive and vibrant hub with noteworthy historic and modern architecture, great dining and shopping, and a lively nightlife and festival scene. The old city manages to feel both hip and historic. Previous generations had the foresight to preserve the cultural and architectural integrity of the city, yet students from five local universities keep it lively and current. It’s a perfect starting point to any tour of the Atlantic provinces, but even if you don’t venture beyond its boundaries, you will get a real taste of the region.It was Halifax’s natural harbor—the second largest in the world after Sydney, Australia’s—that first drew the British here in 1749, and today most major sites are conveniently located either along it or on the Citadel-crowned hill overlooking it. That’s good news for visitors because this city actually covers quite a bit of ground.Since amalgamating with Dartmouth (directly across the harbor) and several suburbs in 1996, Halifax has been absorbed into the Halifax Regional Municipality, and the HRM, as it is known, has around 415,000 residents. That may not sound like a lot by U.S. standards, but it makes Nova Scotia’s capital the most significant Canadian urban center east of Montréal.There’s easy access to the water, and despite being the focal point of a busy commercial port, Halifax Harbour doubles as a playground, with one of the world’s longest downtown boardwalks. It’s a place where container ships, commuter ferries, cruise ships, and tour boats compete for space, and where workaday tugs and fishing vessels tie up beside glitzy yachts. Like Halifax as a whole, the harbor represents a blend of the traditional and the contemporary.

Day itinerary:

The capital of Nova Scotia was ranked the 4th best place to live in Canada back in 2012. It is a city with more pubs and clubs per capita than any other Canadian city and even one of the mayors was a brewmaster. The boardwalk on the waterfront follows the water’s edge and is lined with unique shops. Halifax is home to the longest running saltwater ferry and a 200-year-old restored fishing village. Be sure to find time to try fabled donair (pita, meat and sauce), the official food of Halifax.

Portland, Maine The largest city in Maine, Portland was founded in 1632 on the Casco Bay Peninsula. It quickly prospered through shipbuilding and the export of inland pines which made excellent masts. A long line of wooden wharves stretched along the seafront, with the merchants’ houses on the hillside above. From the earliest days it was a cosmopolitan city. When the railroads came, the Canada Trunk Line had its terminal right on Portland’s quayside, bringing the produce of Canada and the Great Plains one hundred miles closer to Europe than any other major U.S. port. Some of the wharves are now occupied by new condominium developments, with the exception of the Customs House Wharf, which remains much as it used to be. Grand Trunk Station was torn down in 1966 and a revitalization program of this historic section was spearheaded by a group of committed residents. The result was the revival of the Old Port Exchange District with its redbrick streets built in the 1860s following a disastrous fire. The area today features a wide variety of restaurants, specialty and antique shops, and makes for a pleasant place for a stroll. Congress Street and its many side streets are an engaging mixture of culture, commerce and history. Art is everywhere, from the Portland Museum of Art to the many statues and monuments throughout the city. Other points of interest include the Portland Observatory, Henry Wadsworth Longfellow’s childhood home, several colonial mansions and Fort Williams Park, with the adjacent Portland Head Light. Farther afield one can visit the charming yachting and fishing village of Kennebunkport, also noted as the locale of the home and summer White House of former President George Bush. Going Ashore in Portland Pier Information The ship is scheduled to dock at the Portland Ocean Terminal, a very easy walk to the Old Port District located about two blocks away. Taxis are available at the pier. Shopping A wide range of Maine-made clothing, crafts and imported items can be found in shops along the cobblestone streets of the quaint Old Port Exchange. Small boutiques and numerous art galleries feature everything from paintings, crafts and furniture to prints and photographs. Antique lovers will enjoy browsing through area shops. Bargain hunters may want to visit the designer factory outlet shops in Freeport. On Sundays, most shops are open from 12:00 noon to 5:00-6:00 p.m. The local currency is the dollar. Cuisine Portland has the most restaurants per capita, second only to San Francisco. Eating establishments are as diverse as the menus they offer. The fresh catch of the day can be found on most menus, but seafood is only one of many culinary delights. From specialty coffee houses and ethnic restaurants to chowder and lobster houses to elegant dining rooms, Portland makes it easy to please every palate. Other Sights Longfellow’s “City by the Sea” Portland is a walkable city, and a good place to start exploring is at the Old Port with its striking buildings comprising a bevy of architectural styles, ranging from Italianate to Mansard, Queen Anne to Greek Revival. The charming streets house an amazing collection of shops, galleries, bookstores and restaurants. Congress Street and the Arts District reflect the changes of 350 years of history, boasting an engaging mixture of culture and commerce. Portland Museum of Art The museum’s award-winning building is a blend of 1911 Beaux Arts and 1983 post-modernism. It houses one of New England’s finest art collections. Don’t miss the museum’s indoor Sculpture Garden. Portland Observatory Built in 1807, this is a rare example of a signal tower from which signal flags would be flown to identify incoming vessels. Factory Outlets of Freeport About a 25-minute drive north of Portland (approximately $35 one way for a taxi), this shopping mecca is crammed with serious shoppers who come from as far away as New York. Private arrangements for independent sightseeing may be requested through the Tour Office on board.

Day itinerary:

The New England charm of Portland is a delightful mix of stylish and sophisticated, modest and folksy, with a reputation for great dining. There is a plethora of local art and music, lovely parks and a pleasing array of 19th century architecture including beautiful Victorian-era homes. The cobblestone lanes of the Old Port district waterfront are alive with working fishing piers and warehouses converted into shops and restaurants.

Portland, Maine The largest city in Maine, Portland was founded in 1632 on the Casco Bay Peninsula. It quickly prospered through shipbuilding and the export of inland pines which made excellent masts. A long line of wooden wharves stretched along the seafront, with the merchants’ houses on the hillside above. From the earliest days it was a cosmopolitan city. When the railroads came, the Canada Trunk Line had its terminal right on Portland’s quayside, bringing the produce of Canada and the Great Plains one hundred miles closer to Europe than any other major U.S. port. Some of the wharves are now occupied by new condominium developments, with the exception of the Customs House Wharf, which remains much as it used to be. Grand Trunk Station was torn down in 1966 and a revitalization program of this historic section was spearheaded by a group of committed residents. The result was the revival of the Old Port Exchange District with its redbrick streets built in the 1860s following a disastrous fire. The area today features a wide variety of restaurants, specialty and antique shops, and makes for a pleasant place for a stroll. Congress Street and its many side streets are an engaging mixture of culture, commerce and history. Art is everywhere, from the Portland Museum of Art to the many statues and monuments throughout the city. Other points of interest include the Portland Observatory, Henry Wadsworth Longfellow’s childhood home, several colonial mansions and Fort Williams Park, with the adjacent Portland Head Light. Farther afield one can visit the charming yachting and fishing village of Kennebunkport, also noted as the locale of the home and summer White House of former President George Bush. Going Ashore in Portland Pier Information The ship is scheduled to dock at the Portland Ocean Terminal, a very easy walk to the Old Port District located about two blocks away. Taxis are available at the pier. Shopping A wide range of Maine-made clothing, crafts and imported items can be found in shops along the cobblestone streets of the quaint Old Port Exchange. Small boutiques and numerous art galleries feature everything from paintings, crafts and furniture to prints and photographs. Antique lovers will enjoy browsing through area shops. Bargain hunters may want to visit the designer factory outlet shops in Freeport. On Sundays, most shops are open from 12:00 noon to 5:00-6:00 p.m. The local currency is the dollar. Cuisine Portland has the most restaurants per capita, second only to San Francisco. Eating establishments are as diverse as the menus they offer. The fresh catch of the day can be found on most menus, but seafood is only one of many culinary delights. From specialty coffee houses and ethnic restaurants to chowder and lobster houses to elegant dining rooms, Portland makes it easy to please every palate. Other Sights Longfellow’s “City by the Sea” Portland is a walkable city, and a good place to start exploring is at the Old Port with its striking buildings comprising a bevy of architectural styles, ranging from Italianate to Mansard, Queen Anne to Greek Revival. The charming streets house an amazing collection of shops, galleries, bookstores and restaurants. Congress Street and the Arts District reflect the changes of 350 years of history, boasting an engaging mixture of culture and commerce. Portland Museum of Art The museum’s award-winning building is a blend of 1911 Beaux Arts and 1983 post-modernism. It houses one of New England’s finest art collections. Don’t miss the museum’s indoor Sculpture Garden. Portland Observatory Built in 1807, this is a rare example of a signal tower from which signal flags would be flown to identify incoming vessels. Factory Outlets of Freeport About a 25-minute drive north of Portland (approximately $35 one way for a taxi), this shopping mecca is crammed with serious shoppers who come from as far away as New York. Private arrangements for independent sightseeing may be requested through the Tour Office on board.

Day itinerary:

The New England charm of Portland is a delightful mix of stylish and sophisticated, modest and folksy, with a reputation for great dining. There is a plethora of local art and music, lovely parks and a pleasing array of 19th century architecture including beautiful Victorian-era homes. The cobblestone lanes of the Old Port district waterfront are alive with working fishing piers and warehouses converted into shops and restaurants.

Day itinerary:

Seventeen-mile-long Cape Cod Canal is part of the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway. Construction began in 1909 and the canal was first used in 1914. At 540 feet wide, it is the widest canal in the world. Cape Cod Canal traverses the neck of land joining Cape Cod to the mainland and occasionally marine life like whales and dolphins can be seen frolicking in the waters. This transit is exclusive to small ships like ours.

From Wall Street’s skyscrapers to the neon of Times Square to Central Park’s leafy paths, New York City pulses with an irrepressible energy. History meets hipness in this global center of entertainment, fashion, media, and finance. World-class museums like MoMA and unforgettable icons like the Statue of Liberty beckon, but discovering the subtler strains of New York’s vast ambition is equally rewarding: ethnic enclaves and shops, historic streets of dignified brownstones, and trendy bars and eateries all add to the urban buzz.

Day itinerary:

The largest city in the United States, New York City sits at the mouth of the Hudson River and is made up of five boroughs – Brooklyn, Queens, Manhattan, The Bronx and Staten Island. It is the premier gateway for immigrants, with almost 800 languages spoken there. Full of attractions, its iconic sites include the Empire State Building, Times Square, Central Park, The Museum of Modern Art, the Statue of Liberty and The Metropolitan Museum of Art to name just a few.

From Wall Street’s skyscrapers to the neon of Times Square to Central Park’s leafy paths, New York City pulses with an irrepressible energy. History meets hipness in this global center of entertainment, fashion, media, and finance. World-class museums like MoMA and unforgettable icons like the Statue of Liberty beckon, but discovering the subtler strains of New York’s vast ambition is equally rewarding: ethnic enclaves and shops, historic streets of dignified brownstones, and trendy bars and eateries all add to the urban buzz.

Day itinerary:

The largest city in the United States, New York City sits at the mouth of the Hudson River and is made up of five boroughs – Brooklyn, Queens, Manhattan, The Bronx and Staten Island. It is the premier gateway for immigrants, with almost 800 languages spoken there. Full of attractions, its iconic sites include the Empire State Building, Times Square, Central Park, The Museum of Modern Art, the Statue of Liberty and The Metropolitan Museum of Art to name just a few.