Muse – 20261007 – 9 days

Today a port town surrounded by industrial suburbs, Koper nevertheless warrants a visit. The Republic of Venice made Koper the regional capital during the 15th and 16th centuries, and the magnificent architecture of the Old Town bears witness to the spirit of those times.The most important buildings are clustered around Titov trg, the central town square. Here stands the Cathedral, which can be visited daily from 7 to noon and 3 to 7, with its fine Venetian Gothic facade and bell tower dating back to 1664. Across the square the splendid Praetor’s Palace, formerly the seat of the Venetian Grand Council, combines Gothic and Renaissance styles. From the west side of Titov trg, the narrow, cobbled Kidriceva ulica brings you down to the seafront.

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With a sweeping old town of Venetian architecture sing-song Italian emanating from its cafes and even a fountain that honours the Rialto Bridge – you could be forgiven for thinking that you’d stepped off the boat into the Floating City itself while exploring Koper. Formerly an island Koper was linked artificially to the Slovenian mainland in 1825. It now serves as the only major port of Slovenia and basks in the sun of the Istrian coast which offers an alluring blend of the best of Croatian Slovenian and Italian. The nation’s capital Ljubljana also lies within easy reach. A working city with plenty of charm below its sea of terracotta roofs the picturesque Tito square lies at Koper’s heart. The Cathedral of Assumption rises above the square and towers over the narrow streets nearby. Take a deep breath and climb the 200 steps for a stunning panorama of the city. Or simply soak up the atmosphere with a wander through Čevljarska Ulica – a set of cobbled streets adorned with artisan shops small bars and restaurants. Soak up the sights of Koper the country’s oldest town or make for the Slovenian capital Ljubljana – to discover a lively city of green parks leafy open spaces and pedestrianised boulevards. The pretty Ljubljana River stretches through the city’s heart providing casual strolls and charming bike rides. Nearby encounter a scene from a fairy-tale as you see the breathlessly picturesque Bled Castle emerging from a tiny island in the centre of a cloudy-blue alpine lake.

One of the true jewels of the Mediterranean, Rovinj is a jaw-droppingly beautiful town, which juts out into sparkling Mediterranean. Dominated by the pencil-like bell tower of the Venetian Saint Euphemia Cathedral, pine tree forests flow to the borders of the quaint Old Town – which evokes the romantic, tangled backstreets of the Venice. Rovinj – or Rovino in Italian – is a city of split personalities, with two official languages – having been owned by the Kingdom of Italy between 1919 and 1947.

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A gorgeous artwork of a port you can revel in seafront promenade strolls waterside drinks and the tangled beauty of an immensely atmospheric old town. Nearby islands sparkle and beaches call out while working fishing boats add authentic everyday charm. With both Croatian and Italian languages spoken there’s more than a hint of Venice in the crisscrossing streets and soaring bell towers of this breathlessly romantic place. An alluring highlight of the Istrian Peninsula walk the cobbled streets of Rovinj’s old town between sun-parched houses that rear up directly against the sea’s lapping water. Tiny streets and squares are lined with little souvenir shops bars gelato stalls and restaurants serving up delicious dishes laced with Istria’s elusive white truffles. Take the climb up above via the elegant Church of St Eufemia’s Venetian bell tower. The tower’s ascent is perhaps best viewed from the glinting waters however as you look back to see the church rising above the town’s pretty clutch of colourful buildings. Explore the olive groves and vineyards of the sunny peninsular on your way to villages where truffles are sniffed out by specially trained dogs or head out to rocky coves to swim in refreshing transparent seas. Pula is also close by – a city scattered with Roman ruins including the magnificently preserved in-tact amphitheatre – which continues to be a centre of entertainment hosting atmospheric festivals and concerts to this day.

Nothing can prepare you for your first sight of Dubrovnik. Lying 216 km (135 miles) southeast of Split and commanding a jaw-dropping coastal location, it is one of the world’s most beautiful fortified cities. Its massive stone ramparts and fortress towers curve around a tiny harbor, enclosing graduated ridges of sun-bleached orange-tiled roofs, copper domes, and elegant bell towers. Your imagination will run wild picturing what it looked like seven centuries ago when the walls were built, without any suburbs or highways around it, just this magnificent stone city rising out of the sea.In the 7th century AD, residents of the Roman city Epidaurum (now Cavtat) fled the Avars and Slavs of the north and founded a new settlement on a small rocky island, which they named Laus, and later Ragusa. On the mainland hillside opposite the island, the Slav settlement called Dubrovnik grew up. In the 12th century the narrow channel separating the two settlements was filled in (now the main street through the Old Town, called Stradun), and Ragusa and Dubrovnik became one. The city was surrounded by defensive walls during the 13th century, and these were reinforced with towers and bastions in the late 15th century.From 1358 to 1808 the city thrived as a powerful and remarkably sophisticated independent republic, reaching its golden age during the 16th century. In 1667 many of its splendid Gothic and Renaissance buildings were destroyed by an earthquake. The defensive walls survived the disaster, and the city was rebuilt in baroque style.Dubrovnik lost its independence to Napoléon in 1808, and in 1815 passed to Austria-Hungary. During the 20th century, as part of Yugoslavia, the city became a popular tourist destination, and in 1979 it was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. During the war for independence, it came under heavy siege. Thanks to careful restoration, few traces of damage remain; however, there are maps inside the Pile and Ploče Gates illustrating the points around the city where damage was done. It’s only when you experience Dubrovnik yourself that you can understand what a treasure the world nearly lost

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Croatia’s crowning glory rears up vertically from the tranquil waters of the Adriatic and Dubrovnik’s daunting fortresses town is a truly imposing sight to behold. Encircled by chunky stone walls so thick and dramatic they could have been purpose-built as a film set this city’s unmatched old town is the setting for countless films and shows – from Star Wars to Robin Hood Game of Thrones and every production in-between seeking a truly authentic medieval flavour. Fully restored now the stone streets of the city take you through a beautiful mosaic of architectural splendour baroque churches and splashing fountains. Tapering alleys rocket up from the central boulevard of Stradun offering spectacular views down but you’ll need to walk the city walls to appreciate the fortress city’s full scale. Visit the neighbouring fort of Lovrijenac for another perspective or swing up to Srd fortress’s glorious panorama on a cable car. Dubrovnik’s streets are crammed with eateries and candlelit tables where couples splash wine into glasses and enjoy gnocchi mixed with creamy truffle sauces. Nearby beaches like Banje are also close by and hidden bays reward the intrepid who venture out beyond the old town. Take sunset drinks to sit back and watch as flotillas of sea kayaks roll by or sail on the pristine waters to explore island gems like Lokrum – where peacocks are the only permanent residents.

Bari, capital of the province of Apulia, lies on southern Italy’s Adriatic coast. Its busy port is a leading commercial and industrial centre as well as a transit point for travellers catching ferries across the Adriatic to Greece. Bari comprises a new and an old town. To the north, on a promontory between the old and new harbours, lies the picturesque old town, or Citta Vecchia, with a maze of narrow, crooked streets. To the south is the spacious and regularly planned new town, which has developed considerably since 1930, when the Levant Fair was first held here. The heart of the modern town is Piazza della Liberta. The busy thoroughfare, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, separates the new town from the old. At the eastern end of the Corso begins the Lungomare Nazario Sauro, a magnificent seafront promenade that runs along the old harbour. Bari and the Apulian region were long recognized for their strategic location, attracting a succession of colonizers such as the Normans, Moors and Spaniards, each leaving their mark. 

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Explore further afield to immerse yourself in Puglia’s beauty and cultural wonders – or simply soak up the atmosphere roaming the crooked streets of Bari’s old town – Bari Vecchia – where matriarchs roll out sheets of pasta in open doorways footballs rattle along dusty streets and sun-wrinkled old men lay out hands of cards. The photogenic old town’s streets are crowned by the chalky white Cattedrale di San Sabino where vaulted archways pretty mosaics and a large rose window await. Wander along the ruler-straight Lungomare Promenade to breathe in fresh salty air and look up at the slowly twirling ferris wheel – take a ride for some of the best views out over Bari’s waterfront. Feeling hungry? Enjoy some local cucina povera – cooking of the poor – deeply traditional food that is simple and rich in elemental flavours. Warm focaccia bread pasted with fruity local olive oil and ear-shaped orecchiette pasta tangled with sun-gorged cherry tomatoes and creamy ricotta cheese is all on the menu. Puglia’s whitewashed ancient villages stunning beaches and laid-back down-to-earth approach to life means you’ll most likely want to explore further than just Bari. Powdery white sand beaches await at Salento – punctuated by arching rock formations. The incredible cave dwellings of Matera – 2019’s European Capital of Culture – are also easily within your grasp as is Polignano a Mare’s spectacularly scenic narrow wedge of urban beach.

Backed by imposing mountains, tiny Kotor lies hidden from the open sea, tucked into the deepest channel of the Bokor Kotorska (Kotor Bay), which is Europe’s most southerly fjord. To many, this town is more charming than its sister UNESCO World Heritage Site, Dubrovnik, retaining more authenticity, but with fewer tourists and spared the war damage and subsequent rebuilding which has given Dubrovnik something of a Disney feel.Kotor’s medieval Stari Grad (Old Town) is enclosed within well-preserved defensive walls built between the 9th and 18th centuries and is presided over by a proud hilltop fortress. Within the walls, a labyrinth of winding cobbled streets leads through a series of splendid paved piazzas, rimmed by centuries-old stone buildings. The squares are now haunted by strains from buskers but although many now house trendy cafés and chic boutiques, directions are still given medieval-style by reference to the town’s landmark churches.In the Middle Ages, as Serbia’s chief port, Kotor was an important economic and cultural center with its own highly regarded schools of stonemasonry and iconography. From 1391 to 1420 it was an independent city-republic and later, it spent periods under Venetian, Austrian, and French rule, though it was undoubtedly the Venetians who left the strongest impression on the city’s architecture. Since the breakup of Yugoslavia, some 70% of the stone buildings in the romantic Old Town have been snapped up by foreigners, mostly Brits and Russians. Porto Montenegro, a new marina designed to accommodate some of the world’s largest super yachts, opened in nearby Tivat in 2011, and along the bay are other charming seaside villages, all with better views of the bay than the vista from Kotor itself where the waterside is congested with cruise ships and yachts. Try sleepy Muo or the settlement of Prčanj in one direction around the bay, or Perast and the Roman mosaics of Risan in the other direction.

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Embedded into the slopes of the steep Lovćen mountain and overlooking the deep blue Adriatic the fortified town of Kotor boasts a spectacular imposing staging that few can match. Sq Squeezing in through the tight Bay of Kotor is a daunting and impressive approach in itself as you arrive via one of Europe’s most stunning waterways. A pearl of Montenegro and the Adriatic Kotor’s warren-like streets drip with history and authenticity. Under Venetian influence for four centuries the city’s UNESCO World Heritage Site old town invites you to wander amid atmospheric stone-clad streets overlooked by a sea of terracotta roofs and the double towers of the cathedral. Many favour Kotor for its compact layout smaller crowds and authenticity however – having been spared from shelling during Yugoslavia’s breakup. The tightknit streets here are patrolled by a slinking population of feline residents who were adopted as the town’s mascots after being left behind by transient trader ships. Learn of the city’s extensive heritage on the waves in the dedicated maritime museum that is contained within Grgurina Palace. Pick your way through tight alleys of workshops and studios walking below fresh laundry strung from windows before settling into shiny paved piazzas for an afternoon coffee or seafood meal. If you’re up for an aerobic challenge tackle the 1 350 steps up the steep walls to St John’s fortress. The views over the gorgeous bay make the arduous slog worth it.

Split’s ancient core is so spectacular and unusual that a visit is more than worth your time. The heart of the city lies within the walls of Roman emperor Diocletian’s retirement palace, which was built in the 3rd century AD. Diocletian, born in the nearby Roman settlement of Salona in AD 245, achieved a brilliant career as a soldier and became emperor at the age of 40. In 295 he ordered this vast palace to be built in his native Dalmatia, and when it was completed he stepped down from the throne and retired to his beloved homeland. Upon his death, he was laid to rest in an octagonal mausoleum, around which Split’s magnificent cathedral was built.In 615, when Salona was sacked by barbarian tribes, those fortunate enough to escape found refuge within the stout palace walls and divided up the vast imperial apartments into more modest living quarters. Thus, the palace developed into an urban center, and by the 11th century the settlement had expanded beyond the ancient walls.Under the rule of Venice (1420–1797), Split—as a gateway to the Balkan interior—became one of the Adriatic’s main trading ports, and the city’s splendid Renaissance palaces bear witness to the affluence of those times. When the Habsburgs took control during the 19th century, an overland connection to Central Europe was established by the construction of the Split–Zagreb–Vienna railway line.After World War II, the Tito years saw a period of rapid urban expansion: industrialization accelerated and the suburbs extended to accommodate high-rise apartment blocks. Today the historic center of Split is included on UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites.

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Bathing in the Dalmatian Coast’s generous sunshine and overlooking sparkling island-studded waters Split is a city of romantic beauty built around an extraordinary – still beating – historical heart. The setting may be spectacular but it’s the Diocletian’s Palace – a Roman remain of incredible scale and detail that is truly bewitching. With a natural backdrop of dramatic limestone mountains and Croatia’s trademark scenic wonders all around Split is a true heavyweight of the Adriatic. To enter Split’s Diocletian’s Palace is to step into a beautiful time warp. Head first to the Cathedral of Saint Domnius where a hollow bell tower rockets up puncturing the sky. The perfume of lavender hangs heavy wherever you walk in the old town where tucked shops offer artisan chocolates dried figs and freshly-ground coffees. The expansive seafront promenade is all palm trees buzzing bars and eateries and further out you’ll find the peace of Marion Hill – where you can climb to some of the best views in town. Or take the far less exerting wander to Sustipan cemetery’s breathtaking panorama of sea city and distant islands. Trips to island paradises like Hvar and Brac are tempting as are longer excursions to sites like Krka National Park’s Waterfalls – where wide terraces of frothing water thunder into cooling swimmable splash pools below. Nearby Trogir is another UNESCO World Heritage Site offering a cosier no less charming old town and historic port.

Dalmatia’s capital for more than 1,000 years, Zadar is all too often passed over by travelers on their way to Split or Dubrovnik. What they miss out on is a city of more than 73,000 that is remarkably lovely and lively despite—and, in some measure, because of—its tumultuous history. The Old Town, separated from the rest of the city on a peninsula some 4 km (2½ miles) long and just 1,640 feet wide, is bustling and beautiful: the marble pedestrian streets are replete with Roman ruins, medieval churches, palaces, museums, archives, and libraries. Parts of the new town are comparatively dreary, a testament to what a world war followed by decades of communism, not to mention a civil war, can do to the architecture of a city that is 3,000 years old. A settlement had already existed on the site of the present-day city for some 2,000 years when Rome finally conquered Zadar in the 1st century BC; the foundations of the forum can be seen today. Before the Romans came the Liburnians had made it a key center for trade with the Greeks and Romans for 800 years. In the 3rd century BC the Romans began to seriously pester the Liburnians, but required two centuries to bring the area under their control. During the Byzantine era, Zadar became the capital of Dalmatia, and this period saw the construction of its most famous church, the 9th-century St. Donat’s Basilica. It remained the region’s foremost city through the ensuing centuries. The city then experienced successive onslaughts and occupations—both long and short—by the Osogoths, the Croatian-Hungarian kings, the Venetians, the Turks, the Habsburgs, the French, the Habsburgs again, and finally the Italians before becoming part of Yugoslavia and, in 1991, the independent republic of Croatia. Zadar was for centuries an Italian-speaking city, and Italian is still spoken widely, especially by older people. Indeed, it was ceded to Italy in 1921 under the Treaty of Rapallo (and reverted to its Italian name of Zara). Its occupation by the Germans from 1943 led to intense bombing by the Allies during World War II, which left most of the city in ruins. Zadar became part of Tito’s Yugoslavia in 1947, prompting many Italian residents to leave. Zadar’s most recent ravages occurred during a three-month siege by Serb forces and months more of bombardment during the Croatian-Serbian war between 1991 and 1995. But you’d be hard-pressed to find outward signs of this today in what is a city to behold. There are helpful interpretive signs in English all around the Old Town, so you certainly won’t feel lost when trying to make sense of the wide variety of architectural sites you might otherwise pass by with only a cursory look.

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Croatia’s Capital of Cool Zadar is a dazzling mesh of influences and creativity. Glorious turquoise-water beaches and heavenly waterfalls also lie within easy reach of this energetic city of festivals and outdoor fun. See the old town with its robust city walls boasting decorative stone gateways and marble streets. The church of St Donatus was built from stones pillaged from the Roman forum while Zadar Cathedral – Dalmatia’s biggest – stands among the many architectural treats of this city which was once an impenetrable stronghold of Venice’s republic. Head for the ‘pillar of shame’ with its chains to humiliate the criminals of a bygone time – or succumb to the tempting treats of shopping in the market. The sparkling Adriatic’s waters calls you and Kolovare Beach is a mere ten-minute stroll from the old town. A day trip to Kornat National Park – which incorporates the Zadar Archipelago’s immaculate scattering of beach-fringed islands – or to the divine waterfalls of Plitvice Lakes National Park will introduce you to more of Croatia’s thrilling natural beauty. The sea truly does sing here in Zadar thanks to a unique waterfront artwork which encapsulates the city’s playful spirit. Designed to make music when the waves wash over it the ebb and flow of the Adriatic plays the Sea Organ instrument like a maestro. Not far away the Monument to the Sun is a 22-metre-wide disc which gathers the sun’s rays during the sunny days and releases the solar energy in the form of a magical light show after dark.

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Losing none of its allure over the years, this floating city of canals, bridges and masks is a place of eternal beauty and enduring elegance. The lagoon of more than 100 islands is a heavenly sight, transporting visitors on a journey through time – from its Roman inception, through centuries of trade to the modern face we see today. Navigate Venice’s sparkling waterways by romantic gondola, or on cruises along wide canal boulevards. Span the Grand Canal over its iconic original crossing, the Rialto Bridge, which – with its parade of tiny shops – gives some of the city’s most endearing views. If the crowds unsettle you at any point, take two turns away from the main thoroughfares to find peace alone, amid the city’s labyrinth of tiny streets. Hurry to Piazza San Marco to be immersed in Venice’s elegant glory. Basilica San Marco transports you back to the wealthy days of the Doges, who ruled for over 1,000 years. Initially their private chapel, it’s now decorated with beautiful Byzantine mosaics. Nearby the Campanile di San Marco bell tower offers views over the higgledy-piggledy rooftops of times gone by. Just a hop skip and a jump around the corner is the Doge’s Palace, where the levels of opulence ramp up even further. Justice was meted out in this stunning Palace, with the guilty walking to the cells across the covered Bridge of Sighs. Vaporetto trips to local islands offer even more adventures to float your boat, whether it’s Murano with its world-famous glass, Torcello with its amazing Cathedrals, or Burano with its handmade lace and delightfully colourful painted houses.