Spirit – 20261018 – 10 days

Today a port town surrounded by industrial suburbs, Koper nevertheless warrants a visit. The Republic of Venice made Koper the regional capital during the 15th and 16th centuries, and the magnificent architecture of the Old Town bears witness to the spirit of those times.The most important buildings are clustered around Titov trg, the central town square. Here stands the Cathedral, which can be visited daily from 7 to noon and 3 to 7, with its fine Venetian Gothic facade and bell tower dating back to 1664. Across the square the splendid Praetor’s Palace, formerly the seat of the Venetian Grand Council, combines Gothic and Renaissance styles. From the west side of Titov trg, the narrow, cobbled Kidriceva ulica brings you down to the seafront.

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With a sweeping old town of Venetian architecture sing-song Italian emanating from its cafes and even a fountain that honours the Rialto Bridge – you could be forgiven for thinking that you’d stepped off the boat into the Floating City itself while exploring Koper. Formerly an island Koper was linked artificially to the Slovenian mainland in 1825. It now serves as the only major port of Slovenia and basks in the sun of the Istrian coast which offers an alluring blend of the best of Croatian Slovenian and Italian. The nation’s capital Ljubljana also lies within easy reach. A working city with plenty of charm below its sea of terracotta roofs the picturesque Tito square lies at Koper’s heart. The Cathedral of Assumption rises above the square and towers over the narrow streets nearby. Take a deep breath and climb the 200 steps for a stunning panorama of the city. Or simply soak up the atmosphere with a wander through Čevljarska Ulica – a set of cobbled streets adorned with artisan shops small bars and restaurants. Soak up the sights of Koper the country’s oldest town or make for the Slovenian capital Ljubljana – to discover a lively city of green parks leafy open spaces and pedestrianised boulevards. The pretty Ljubljana River stretches through the city’s heart providing casual strolls and charming bike rides. Nearby encounter a scene from a fairy-tale as you see the breathlessly picturesque Bled Castle emerging from a tiny island in the centre of a cloudy-blue alpine lake.

Water is the essence of Kvarner, and the region’s largest city expresses this simply. Whether in Croatian or Italian (Fiume) the translation of the name to English is the same: river. Although the history of Croatia’s third city goes back to the days of Imperial Rome, modern Rijeka evolved under the rule of Austria-Hungary. The historic core retains vestiges of the old Habsburg monarchy from the time when Rijeka served as the empire’s outlet to the Adriatic. During the 1960s, under Yugoslavia, the suburbs expanded rapidly. Rijeka is the country’s largest port, with a huge shipyard, massive dry-dock facilities, refineries, and other heavy industries offering large-scale employment. Since the breakup of Yugoslavia, however, Rijeka’s role as a shipping town has declined significantly. Much business shifted north to the smaller Slovene ports during the crippling wars of the 1990s, and although some has returned, the volume remains less than half that seen in 1980.

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With the River Rječina gushing through its heart and a proud history on the waves Rijeka is known as the city that flows. Whether you want to explore the flavours of Istria hop between the Adriatic’s scattered islands or discover immense landscapes like Croatia’s mountain gorges and Slovenia’s Postojna Caves – Rijeka is the perfect starting point. Korzo is the city’s heart and soul – a long pedestrian stretch that chatters with cafes shops and restaurants. Well-preserved old facades add atmosphere while locals gather below the City Clock to meet friends. The lemon-yellow baroque tower is an icon of the city peeking up over Kvarner Bay. After wandering that walkway head for Trsat – an atmospheric old town of cobbled streets. A staircase leads up to Trsat Castle which caps the city and watches over the former border between Yugoslavia and Italy 138 meters above sea level. Modelled on Venice’s Santa Maria della Salute the modest St. Vitus’ Cathedral is an unusual round place of worship built in 1638. Enter to bathe in the glorious light that spills in through its stain glass windows. Enjoy a well-deserved drink in the cafe at the top while watching the sun setting down over Kvarner Bay. Or loiter until later when open-air concerts fill the air with music. Beaches spread out close to Rijeka while museums reveal secrets of the maritime past and natural history. Taste the region’s flavours with a feast of seafood and dishes like cuttlefish risotto tuna tartare and grilled squid.

Nothing can prepare you for your first sight of Dubrovnik. Lying 216 km (135 miles) southeast of Split and commanding a jaw-dropping coastal location, it is one of the world’s most beautiful fortified cities. Its massive stone ramparts and fortress towers curve around a tiny harbor, enclosing graduated ridges of sun-bleached orange-tiled roofs, copper domes, and elegant bell towers. Your imagination will run wild picturing what it looked like seven centuries ago when the walls were built, without any suburbs or highways around it, just this magnificent stone city rising out of the sea.In the 7th century AD, residents of the Roman city Epidaurum (now Cavtat) fled the Avars and Slavs of the north and founded a new settlement on a small rocky island, which they named Laus, and later Ragusa. On the mainland hillside opposite the island, the Slav settlement called Dubrovnik grew up. In the 12th century the narrow channel separating the two settlements was filled in (now the main street through the Old Town, called Stradun), and Ragusa and Dubrovnik became one. The city was surrounded by defensive walls during the 13th century, and these were reinforced with towers and bastions in the late 15th century.From 1358 to 1808 the city thrived as a powerful and remarkably sophisticated independent republic, reaching its golden age during the 16th century. In 1667 many of its splendid Gothic and Renaissance buildings were destroyed by an earthquake. The defensive walls survived the disaster, and the city was rebuilt in baroque style.Dubrovnik lost its independence to Napoléon in 1808, and in 1815 passed to Austria-Hungary. During the 20th century, as part of Yugoslavia, the city became a popular tourist destination, and in 1979 it was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. During the war for independence, it came under heavy siege. Thanks to careful restoration, few traces of damage remain; however, there are maps inside the Pile and Ploče Gates illustrating the points around the city where damage was done. It’s only when you experience Dubrovnik yourself that you can understand what a treasure the world nearly lost

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Croatia’s crowning glory rears up vertically from the tranquil waters of the Adriatic and Dubrovnik’s daunting fortresses town is a truly imposing sight to behold. Encircled by chunky stone walls so thick and dramatic they could have been purpose-built as a film set this city’s unmatched old town is the setting for countless films and shows – from Star Wars to Robin Hood Game of Thrones and every production in-between seeking a truly authentic medieval flavour. Fully restored now the stone streets of the city take you through a beautiful mosaic of architectural splendour baroque churches and splashing fountains. Tapering alleys rocket up from the central boulevard of Stradun offering spectacular views down but you’ll need to walk the city walls to appreciate the fortress city’s full scale. Visit the neighbouring fort of Lovrijenac for another perspective or swing up to Srd fortress’s glorious panorama on a cable car. Dubrovnik’s streets are crammed with eateries and candlelit tables where couples splash wine into glasses and enjoy gnocchi mixed with creamy truffle sauces. Nearby beaches like Banje are also close by and hidden bays reward the intrepid who venture out beyond the old town. Take sunset drinks to sit back and watch as flotillas of sea kayaks roll by or sail on the pristine waters to explore island gems like Lokrum – where peacocks are the only permanent residents.

Bari, capital of the province of Apulia, lies on southern Italy’s Adriatic coast. Its busy port is a leading commercial and industrial centre as well as a transit point for travellers catching ferries across the Adriatic to Greece. Bari comprises a new and an old town. To the north, on a promontory between the old and new harbours, lies the picturesque old town, or Citta Vecchia, with a maze of narrow, crooked streets. To the south is the spacious and regularly planned new town, which has developed considerably since 1930, when the Levant Fair was first held here. The heart of the modern town is Piazza della Liberta. The busy thoroughfare, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, separates the new town from the old. At the eastern end of the Corso begins the Lungomare Nazario Sauro, a magnificent seafront promenade that runs along the old harbour. Bari and the Apulian region were long recognized for their strategic location, attracting a succession of colonizers such as the Normans, Moors and Spaniards, each leaving their mark. 

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Explore further afield to immerse yourself in Puglia’s beauty and cultural wonders – or simply soak up the atmosphere roaming the crooked streets of Bari’s old town – Bari Vecchia – where matriarchs roll out sheets of pasta in open doorways footballs rattle along dusty streets and sun-wrinkled old men lay out hands of cards. The photogenic old town’s streets are crowned by the chalky white Cattedrale di San Sabino where vaulted archways pretty mosaics and a large rose window await. Wander along the ruler-straight Lungomare Promenade to breathe in fresh salty air and look up at the slowly twirling ferris wheel – take a ride for some of the best views out over Bari’s waterfront. Feeling hungry? Enjoy some local cucina povera – cooking of the poor – deeply traditional food that is simple and rich in elemental flavours. Warm focaccia bread pasted with fruity local olive oil and ear-shaped orecchiette pasta tangled with sun-gorged cherry tomatoes and creamy ricotta cheese is all on the menu. Puglia’s whitewashed ancient villages stunning beaches and laid-back down-to-earth approach to life means you’ll most likely want to explore further than just Bari. Powdery white sand beaches await at Salento – punctuated by arching rock formations. The incredible cave dwellings of Matera – 2019’s European Capital of Culture – are also easily within your grasp as is Polignano a Mare’s spectacularly scenic narrow wedge of urban beach.

Corfu town today is a vivid tapestry of cultures—a sophisticated weave, where charm, history, and natural beauty blend. Located about midway along the island’s east coast, this spectacularly lively capital is the cultural heart of Corfu and has a remarkable historic center that UNESCO designated as a World Heritage Site in 2007. All ships and planes dock or land near Corfu town, which occupies a small peninsula jutting into the Ionian Sea.Whether arriving by ferry from mainland Greece or Italy, from another island, or directly by plane, catch your breath by first relaxing with a coffee or a gelato in Corfu town’s shaded Liston Arcade, then stroll the narrow lanes of its pedestrians-only quarter. For an overview of the immediate area, and a quick tour of Mon Repos palace, hop on the little tourist train that runs from May to September. Corfu town has a different feel at night, so book a table at one of its famed tavernas to savor the island’s unique cuisine.The best way to get around Corfu town is on foot. The town is small enough so that you can easily walk to every sight. There are local buses, but they do not thread their way into the streets (many now car-free) of the historic center. If you are arriving by ferry or plane, it’s best to take a taxi to your hotel. Expect to pay about €10 from the airport or ferry terminal to a hotel in Corfu town. If there are no taxis waiting, you can call for one.

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The soft hues of Corfu’s UNESCO World Heritage List Old Town brings together Corfu’s mesh of European influences with its romantic stone floors and vine-clad cafes. Find somewhere to settle in for a morning coffee ritual like a true Corfiat and sip at the laid-back pace of the locals – allowing the thick bitter concoction to settle before indulging. The oddly out-of-place sound of leather on willow can be heard in Spianada Square – the largest city square in the Balkan region – where a manicured cricket pitch spreads out incongruously below the Mediterranean sun. Take the hike up to the 13th-century Paleokastritsa Monastery where you’ll be escorted by the resident goats and have to step over cats contentedly rolling around your feet on arrival. Inside explore gold-framed frescoes and watch as monks squeeze oil from the monastery’s trees’ bounty. Wander out among the groves to views of Corfu’s never-ending sea reaching out to the horison below you. Corfu’s sweeping sand beaches and hidden coves display the full spectrum of vivid Mediterranean seaside colours – which shift from turquoise greens to cobalt blues. The famous Canal d’Amour is a gorgeous inlet and island legend says couples who swim together in this narrow channel of water stay together forever. Enjoy an afternoon sit-down and drink of ginger tea or something a little stronger in the form of Corfu’s famous radiant orange kumquat liqueur.

Katakolon could not seem less of a cruise port if it tried. A tiny enclave clinging to the western Peloponnese coast, it’s a sleepy place except when ships dock. But it’s a popular cruise destination because of its proximity to Olympia. Ancient Olympia was one of the most important cities in classical Greece. The Sanctuary of Zeus was the city’s raison d’être, and attracted pilgrims from around the eastern Mediterranean, and later the city played host to Olympic Games, the original athletic games that were the inspiration for today’s modern sporting pan-planetary meet. At the foot of the tree-covered Kronion hill, in a valley near two rivers, Katakolon is today one of the most popular ancient sites in Greece. If you don’t want to make the trip to Olympia, then Katakolon is an ideal place for a leisurely Greek lunch while you watch the fishermen mend their nets, but there’s just not much else to do there.

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Holding the torch as the spiritual home of the Olympic Games Olympia has an enduring legacy and its values echo around the world during humanity’s greatest sporting contest. Come ashore at Katakolon – a small port village on the Peloponnese peninsula facing the Ionian Sea and relax on beautiful Kourouta Beach. Or head inland through this legendary destination to the historic home of the Olympic Games. Located in the valley of the River Alfeios Olympia is a staggering archaeological site of immense ruins and enduring legacy. Visit the museum and Olympia Stadium – where the ancient games were held in honour of the Greek god Zeus. As many as 45 000 spectators fit into the mud seats to witness the ultimate contest of athleticism. See the stand where judges would sit and the white blocks where runners would line up to compete. The tradition continues stronger than ever and the Olympic flame of the modern games is ignited by the sun here in the ruins of the Temple of Hera. It is then taken to spread the Olympic values across the globe. The Temple of Zeus and the Statue of Zeus – one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World – also rose here in all of their glory. Hewn from limestone the temple contained the 13-metre tall statue of Zeus which was sculpted by Phidias – one of Ancient Greece’s finest artists. Although the statue has been destroyed you can walk the temple’s ruins and see the guesthouse where the majestic wonder was painstakingly crafted.

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One of the most beautiful parts of this region of the Peloponnese is the plain of Laconia which extends from Sparta to the port of Gytheion. The many neo-classical houses of this harbor town are built on the slopes of Mount Kourmaros. Aside from its remaining ancient theater and cultural museum, visitors can enjoy local beaches and a variety of dining opportunities. The inhabitants of Gytheion claim Hercules and Apollo as its founders. According to mythology, Paris and Helen of Troy were reputed to have spent their first night together on nearby ancient Kranae, now called Marathonissi. Enlarging the natural harbor, it was used by the Spartans as their naval base and the main port of trade. Today Gytheion is visited mostly for its scenic beauty and access to numerous historical sites. These include the cliffside city of Mistra, one of the finest surviving examples of Byzantine architecture in Greece, and ancient Sparta.

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Enter Souda Bay to land on Greece’s largest island and explore the sun-soaked charms of this fascinating land of legends landscapes and luxuries. Packed with beautiful beaches and rich maritime history Souda Bay’s huge natural harbour is a spectacular entrance opening up the treasures of Crete’s many well-stocked museums rich archaeological sites and charming Venetian fishing towns. The massive natural harbour of Souda Bay also makes the site an interesting spot for military history – with a huge NATO base here as well as the Souda Bay War Cemetery which honours Allied soldiers of World War II. Soak up some Mediterranean sunshine by heading straight to one of the luxurious white sand beaches – where you can recline to a soundtrack of fizzing waves and dine with sparkling sea views stretching out before you. Explore olive groves producing golden oil and savour the deep fruity flavours. The island’s renowned wineries also invite you to sample lovingly-crafted Vilana grape wines. Rethymnon’s old town and star-shaped seafront fortress are impressive sites to explore or you can head to Akrotiri to discover the Arkadi Monastery’s role in the Cretan resistance – and visit the site where the Greek flag was hoisted high into the sky by rebels in 1897. Crete retains its independent spirit but has gathered countless influences over its history. The island’s most beautiful Venetian port – Chania – is close by and its picturesque old town and collage of historical influences are a highlight of any trip.

It’s no wonder that all roads lead to the fascinating and maddening metropolis of Athens. Lift your eyes 200 feet above the city to the Parthenon, its honey-color marble columns rising from a massive limestone base, and you behold architectural perfection that has not been surpassed in 2,500 years. But, today, this shrine of classical form dominates a 21st-century boomtown. To experience Athens—Athína in Greek—fully is to understand the essence of Greece: ancient monuments surviving in a sea of cement, startling beauty amid the squalor, tradition juxtaposed with modernity. Locals depend on humor and flexibility to deal with the chaos; you should do the same. The rewards are immense. Although Athens covers a huge area, the major landmarks of the ancient Greek, Roman, and Byzantine periods are close to the modern city center. You can easily walk from the Acropolis to many other key sites, taking time to browse in shops and relax in cafés and tavernas along the way. From many quarters of the city you can glimpse “the glory that was Greece” in the form of the Acropolis looming above the horizon, but only by actually climbing that rocky precipice can you feel the impact of the ancient settlement. The Acropolis and Filopappou, two craggy hills sitting side by side; the ancient Agora (marketplace); and Kerameikos, the first cemetery, form the core of ancient and Roman Athens. Along the Unification of Archaeological Sites promenade, you can follow stone-paved, tree-lined walkways from site to site, undisturbed by traffic. Cars have also been banned or reduced in other streets in the historical center. In the National Archaeological Museum, vast numbers of artifacts illustrate the many millennia of Greek civilization; smaller museums such as the Goulandris Museum of Cycladic Art Museum and the Byzantine and Christian Museum illuminate the history of particular regions or periods. Athens may seem like one huge city, but it is really a conglomeration of neighborhoods with distinctive characters. The Eastern influences that prevailed during the 400-year rule of the Ottoman Empire are still evident in Monastiraki, the bazaar area near the foot of the Acropolis. On the northern slope of the Acropolis, stroll through Plaka (if possible by moonlight), an area of tranquil streets lined with renovated mansions, to get the flavor of the 19th-century’s gracious lifestyle. The narrow lanes of Anafiotika, a section of Plaka, thread past tiny churches and small, color-washed houses with wooden upper stories, recalling a Cycladic island village. In this maze of winding streets, vestiges of the older city are everywhere: crumbling stairways lined with festive tavernas; dank cellars filled with wine vats; occasionally a court or diminutive garden, enclosed within high walls and filled with magnolia trees and the flaming trumpet-shaped flowers of hibiscus bushes. Formerly run-down old quarters, such as Thission, Gazi and Psirri, popular nightlife areas filled with bars and mezedopoleia (similar to tapas bars), are now in the process of gentrification, although they still retain much of their original charm, as does the colorful produce and meat market on Athinas. The area around Syntagma Square, the tourist hub, and Omonia Square, the commercial heart of the city about 1 km (½ mi) northwest, is distinctly European, having been designed by the court architects of King Otho, a Bavarian, in the 19th century. The chic shops and bistros of ritzy Kolonaki nestle at the foot of Mt. Lycabettus, Athens’s highest hill (909 feet). Each of Athens’s outlying suburbs has a distinctive character: in the north is wealthy, tree-lined Kifissia, once a summer resort for aristocratic Athenians, and in the south and southeast lie Glyfada, Voula, and Vouliagmeni, with their sandy beaches, seaside bars, and lively summer nightlife. Just beyond the city’s southern fringes is Piraeus, a bustling port city of waterside fish tavernas and Saronic Gulf views.

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A city of legend, civilisation and enduring culture, Athens is a majestic and magical urban sprawl. Extraordinary elegance and grace combine with grit and graft in Greece’s capital, where highways encase ruins from antiquity, and gleaming museums and galleries stand beside concrete sprayed with edgy street art. These contrasts enhance and elevate the wonders of this 2,500-year-old city, however, which can count notable contributions to philosophy, drama and democracy, among its global legacy. Piraeus’ giant port and naval base welcome you to the edge of the Athens’ urban area. From there it’s a simple jaunt to the centre. The majestic ancient citadel of the Acropolis dominates an elevated platform and is a constant presence as you explore the city. The wonderful remains of the columned temple of the Parthenon – which date back to the 5th century BC – stand here, representing the pinnacle of classical architecture. The nearby Acropolis Museum adds context to your visit and frames the broad views from its giant glass windows. Or rise up Mount Lycabettus, to be rewarded with perhaps Athens’ best panorama of the Acropolis sitting high over the city on its grand stage. See the marble horseshoe of the Old Olympic Stadium, where the first modern Olympics were held in 1896, for more of the city’s enduring legacy. Elsewhere, golden beaches and temples stretch out along the coastline, should you wish to explore a little further afield. Coffee is an art form to the Greeks, and it’s an unwritten rule that coffee time must never be rushed. So prepare to settle down for a couple of hours and lose yourself in a good chat. Feeling hungry – try traditional souvlaki made with sauces handed from generation to generation.