Split to Athens

Dalmatia’s capital for more than 1,000 years, Zadar is all too often passed over by travelers on their way to Split or Dubrovnik. What they miss out on is a city of more than 73,000 that is remarkably lovely and lively despite—and, in some measure, because of—its tumultuous history. The Old Town, separated from the rest of the city on a peninsula some 4 km (2½ miles) long and just 1,640 feet wide, is bustling and beautiful: the marble pedestrian streets are replete with Roman ruins, medieval churches, palaces, museums, archives, and libraries. Parts of the new town are comparatively dreary, a testament to what a world war followed by decades of communism, not to mention a civil war, can do to the architecture of a city that is 3,000 years old. A settlement had already existed on the site of the present-day city for some 2,000 years when Rome finally conquered Zadar in the 1st century BC; the foundations of the forum can be seen today. Before the Romans came the Liburnians had made it a key center for trade with the Greeks and Romans for 800 years. In the 3rd century BC the Romans began to seriously pester the Liburnians, but required two centuries to bring the area under their control. During the Byzantine era, Zadar became the capital of Dalmatia, and this period saw the construction of its most famous church, the 9th-century St. Donat’s Basilica. It remained the region’s foremost city through the ensuing centuries. The city then experienced successive onslaughts and occupations—both long and short—by the Osogoths, the Croatian-Hungarian kings, the Venetians, the Turks, the Habsburgs, the French, the Habsburgs again, and finally the Italians before becoming part of Yugoslavia and, in 1991, the independent republic of Croatia. Zadar was for centuries an Italian-speaking city, and Italian is still spoken widely, especially by older people. Indeed, it was ceded to Italy in 1921 under the Treaty of Rapallo (and reverted to its Italian name of Zara). Its occupation by the Germans from 1943 led to intense bombing by the Allies during World War II, which left most of the city in ruins. Zadar became part of Tito’s Yugoslavia in 1947, prompting many Italian residents to leave. Zadar’s most recent ravages occurred during a three-month siege by Serb forces and months more of bombardment during the Croatian-Serbian war between 1991 and 1995. But you’d be hard-pressed to find outward signs of this today in what is a city to behold. There are helpful interpretive signs in English all around the Old Town, so you certainly won’t feel lost when trying to make sense of the wide variety of architectural sites you might otherwise pass by with only a cursory look.

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Croatia’s Capital of Cool Zadar is a dazzling mesh of influences and creativity. Glorious turquoise-water beaches and heavenly waterfalls also lie within easy reach of this energetic city of festivals and outdoor fun. See the old town with its robust city walls boasting decorative stone gateways and marble streets. The church of St Donatus was built from stones pillaged from the Roman forum while Zadar Cathedral – Dalmatia’s biggest – stands among the many architectural treats of this city which was once an impenetrable stronghold of Venice’s republic. Head for the ‘pillar of shame’ with its chains to humiliate the criminals of a bygone time – or succumb to the tempting treats of shopping in the market. The sparkling Adriatic’s waters calls you and Kolovare Beach is a mere ten-minute stroll from the old town. A day trip to Kornat National Park – which incorporates the Zadar Archipelago’s immaculate scattering of beach-fringed islands – or to the divine waterfalls of Plitvice Lakes National Park will introduce you to more of Croatia’s thrilling natural beauty. The sea truly does sing here in Zadar thanks to a unique waterfront artwork which encapsulates the city’s playful spirit. Designed to make music when the waves wash over it the ebb and flow of the Adriatic plays the Sea Organ instrument like a maestro. Not far away the Monument to the Sun is a 22-metre-wide disc which gathers the sun’s rays during the sunny days and releases the solar energy in the form of a magical light show after dark.

Off the coast of Croatia in the southern Adriatic Sea lie some thousand islands and the largest of them, Korçula, is considered the most beautiful. With an average of 3,000 hours of sunshine per annum, which guarantees a wide assortment of Mediterranean vegetation, it is not difficult to understand why seasoned travelers compare Korçula to a latter-day Eden. Separated from the mainland by a channel of only one mile, Korçula’s main town, named the same as the island, ranks among the best preserved medieval towns in the Mediterranean. It is the island’s main tourist, economic and cultural center. Thanks to its strategic location along the sea trade routes, Korçula has always attracted travelers and settlers. Korcula was founded by Greek colonists, who were followed by Illyrians, Romans and finally the Croats. The Korçula Statute of 1214 is one of the oldest legal documents to have been adopted in this part of Europe. The same century saw the birth of the famous world traveler, Marco Polo. The house said to be his birthplace can be seen in town. Korçulans have always been known as keen seafarers, excellent shipbuilders, stonemasons and artists. From their many voyages, sailors brought back new ideas, which eventually mixed with local customs. To this day, Korçula has maintained the tradition of performing knightly games such as the chivalrous Moreska dance, which has been in existence for more than 400 years. Visitors to Korçula enjoy its stunning location, natural beauty and medieval ambiance. And if that’s not enough, the town offers numerous attractions that are within walking distance from the pier, including the City Museum and the Bishop’s Treasury.

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Croatia’s fractured Adriatic coast is scattered with hundreds of islands – but few can match the elegant beauty of lovely Korčula. Tucked away behind bustling Hvar Croatia’s sixth-largest island is a little harder to reach making for a more peaceful affair. Decorated with beautiful medieval fortifications time stands still as you stroll narrow paths cutting between the stone facades of Gothic and Renaissance architecture. Hear the stomps of feet and clacks of swords rattling off of the walls during traditional Moreška performances – an enchanting authentic sword dance. Revelin Tower looms over the grand entrance to the walled old town – nicknamed Little Dubrovnik – which was built and fortified in 1485 to protect Korčula. The island is also said to be the birthplace of Marco Polo and his former house contains a narrow staircase leading to Marco Polo Tower which peeks above the tight streets. The majestic Cathedral of St. Mark also rises high and you’ll spot the gorgeous vaulted bell tower framed between narrow alleyways. Climb to the top for views of the red roof cluster and sparkling Adriatic below. A beautiful island to explore its dark blanket of pine tree forest led to the Greek’s naming the island Korkyra Melaina – or Black Corfu. Explore the gorgeous ring of coastline which is lined with pebble beaches sandy bays and hidden coves. Or indulge in the island’s tastes – like luxurious olive oils and white wines grown from grapes including posip and grk – cultivated only on this island.

Backed by imposing mountains, tiny Kotor lies hidden from the open sea, tucked into the deepest channel of the Bokor Kotorska (Kotor Bay), which is Europe’s most southerly fjord. To many, this town is more charming than its sister UNESCO World Heritage Site, Dubrovnik, retaining more authenticity, but with fewer tourists and spared the war damage and subsequent rebuilding which has given Dubrovnik something of a Disney feel.Kotor’s medieval Stari Grad (Old Town) is enclosed within well-preserved defensive walls built between the 9th and 18th centuries and is presided over by a proud hilltop fortress. Within the walls, a labyrinth of winding cobbled streets leads through a series of splendid paved piazzas, rimmed by centuries-old stone buildings. The squares are now haunted by strains from buskers but although many now house trendy cafés and chic boutiques, directions are still given medieval-style by reference to the town’s landmark churches.In the Middle Ages, as Serbia’s chief port, Kotor was an important economic and cultural center with its own highly regarded schools of stonemasonry and iconography. From 1391 to 1420 it was an independent city-republic and later, it spent periods under Venetian, Austrian, and French rule, though it was undoubtedly the Venetians who left the strongest impression on the city’s architecture. Since the breakup of Yugoslavia, some 70% of the stone buildings in the romantic Old Town have been snapped up by foreigners, mostly Brits and Russians. Porto Montenegro, a new marina designed to accommodate some of the world’s largest super yachts, opened in nearby Tivat in 2011, and along the bay are other charming seaside villages, all with better views of the bay than the vista from Kotor itself where the waterside is congested with cruise ships and yachts. Try sleepy Muo or the settlement of Prčanj in one direction around the bay, or Perast and the Roman mosaics of Risan in the other direction.

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Embedded into the slopes of the steep Lovćen mountain and overlooking the deep blue Adriatic the fortified town of Kotor boasts a spectacular imposing staging that few can match. Sq Squeezing in through the tight Bay of Kotor is a daunting and impressive approach in itself as you arrive via one of Europe’s most stunning waterways. A pearl of Montenegro and the Adriatic Kotor’s warren-like streets drip with history and authenticity. Under Venetian influence for four centuries the city’s UNESCO World Heritage Site old town invites you to wander amid atmospheric stone-clad streets overlooked by a sea of terracotta roofs and the double towers of the cathedral. Many favour Kotor for its compact layout smaller crowds and authenticity however – having been spared from shelling during Yugoslavia’s breakup. The tightknit streets here are patrolled by a slinking population of feline residents who were adopted as the town’s mascots after being left behind by transient trader ships. Learn of the city’s extensive heritage on the waves in the dedicated maritime museum that is contained within Grgurina Palace. Pick your way through tight alleys of workshops and studios walking below fresh laundry strung from windows before settling into shiny paved piazzas for an afternoon coffee or seafood meal. If you’re up for an aerobic challenge tackle the 1 350 steps up the steep walls to St John’s fortress. The views over the gorgeous bay make the arduous slog worth it.

Sarandë is a city in southern Albania on the coast of the Ionian Sea. Sarandë can be reached easily from the Greek island of Corfu by ferry. An early Christian monastery dedicated to 40 saints (Santi Quaranta) gave Sarandë its name. The city center of Sarandë has been scarred by communist architecture but since the fall of communism many small shops and bars have sprung up which give it a Mediterranean feel. This southernmost harbour of Albania was once the ancient port of Onchesmos. Today, Sarandë’s main attractions are its sunny climate and the nearby ruins of Butrint. Please Note: For your convenience, shore excursions offered for this port of call are available to reserve in advance at www.silversea.com, unless otherwise noted in the description. The deadline to reserve these tours is August 19, after which they will be available for purchase on board, unless otherwise noted in the description. Pier Information The ship is scheduled to anchor at Main Pier. The town center is 875 yards from the pier. Taxis are generally available at the pier. Shopping Typical souvenirs include t-shirts, postcards, wood carvings and dolls in national costume. Cuisine Albanian cuisine has been strongly influenced by Turkey. Grilled meats like shisqubap (shish kebab), romstek (minced meat patties) and gofte (meat balls) are served all across the Balkans. Some local dishes include comlek (meat and onion stew), fërges (a rich beef stew), rosto me salcë kosi (roast beef with sour cream) and tavë kosi (mutton with yoghurt. Lake Shkodra carp and Lake Ohrid trout are the most common fish dishes. Try the ice cream (akullore), which is popular everywhere. Other Sites Blue Eye Spring The iridescent blue water gushes from the depths of the earth and feeds the Bistrica River. Catacombs Recently discovered catacombs of the church of the Forty Saints can also be explored. Private arrangements for independent sightseeing may be requested through the Tour Office on board.

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Overlooking the turquoise blue Ionian Sea Albania’s most southerly harbour is a short 20-minute boat ride from Corfu and bathes in the glow of more than 300 sunny days each year. Revel in Albania’s best beach life or explore historic ancient cities and fortresses embedded with immense archaeological interest. Clear turquoise waters lap the city’s beaches and there’s always something to see along the lively Boulevard Hasan Tahsini – which traces the seafront and is stacked with bars restaurants and shops. The hardy 16th-century Lekuresi Castle has been battered by weather and war over the years but it offers a fantastic lookout point to survey Sarande’s expanse Corfu’s island and the turquoise sea beyond. From here you can head to the Blue Eye Spring a rejuvenating natural landmark where a groundswell of the purest water gushes up 50 metres to surface amid the forest. Bathe in the immaculate waters which are intensely refreshing on sunny days. The majestic ruins of Butrint’s ancient city stand nearby unearthed from the leafy site after the city was abandoned in medieval times. Albania’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site Butrint was an ancient Greek and Roman stronghold – and you can walk back in time along stone-paved streets to discover the immense history here. Roam between the compact Roman theatre and the impressive arched-windows of the basilica before admiring the stunning floor mosaics that have been left behind.

Kalè polis, meaning beautiful city, is the name ancient Greek mariners bestowed on Gallipoli, with good reason. Situated on a mound, the Old Town with its labyrinth of winding lanes, emerges from the Ionian Sea. It is connected to the mainland and modern Gallipoli via a 17th-century bridge. The area lies on the Salentina Peninsula in the extreme southeast end of Italy, commonly referred to as the heel of the boot. The Salento region was inhabited already in prehistoric times; later centuries were marked by Greek, Norman, Byzantine and Baroque cultures. It is a land of farms, castles, works of art, myths and legends. Many heroic battles were fought; fierce resistance was shown by Gallipoli’s citizens against numerous invaders that included Romans, Vandals, Swabians, Venetians, French and lastly the English in 1809. In addition to its tumultuous history and natural beauty, the city’s claim to fame rests in its art treasures, most notably, the Basilica of Sant’Agata with its majestic 17th-century façade. Inside, the church contains a rich and important art collection with numerous works by its great native son, Giovanni Andrea Coppola.

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Taking its name from the Greek translation of ‘beautiful city’ Gallipoli has a big reputation to live up to. A gorgeous gem of the Ionian this is an elegant city with water running through its veins. Surrounded on three sides by the sea wander between the fish market where tables groan below hauls of fresh seashells and the harbour where little boats come and go all day long. Scooters weave along the old town’s tight streets dodge them while enjoying atmospheric strolls below the dangling flowerpot-laced balconies. Enclosed by 14th-century sea walls – and linked to the mainland by a 16th-century bridge – the island is dominated by Castello Angioino di Gallipoli with its thick walls and imposing waterfront setting glaring out to sea. The grand baroque facade of the Basilica Cattedrale di Sant’Agata of 1629 stands in the centre of the old town showcasing intricate carvings and harbouring intense dark paintings and grand columns within. These sun-blessed landscapes produce a rich bounty of flavourful olives and grapes each year. The rich liquid gold of Gallipoli’s olive oil is legendary and the city is pocked with underground olive oil factories squeezing out the very best flavours. Puglia has a number of charming coastal towns from the beautiful Baroque architecture of palaces and churches at Lecce to the walled city of Otranto – which waits across the peninsular looking east. This pretty old town has a charming Medieval core and its glowing beaches spread beside the Adriatic’s blue waters.

Syros is an island in the Aegean Sea, 78 miles (125 kilometres) southeast of Athens, and the administrative, commercial, intellectual and cultural centre of the Cyclades. Syros is 32 square miles (82.8 square kilometres) in area. Its largest towns are Ermoupoli, the capital of the island and Cyclades, Ano Syros and Vari. Although Syros belongs to the Cyclades islands, its architecture is more medieval than Cycladic. The beaches of Syros are especially inviting, and surrounded by many tourist facilities and accommodations.

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Beautiful sea crisp white beaches and charming medieval villages add character and colour to this gorgeous Greek Island. Part of the Cyclades group of islands visit the capital Ermoupoli to discover a network of picturesque narrow streets and winding alleyways – dotted with fancy old Venetian mansions and elegant domed churches. The colourful town cascades down to an open waterfront of pine-trees and beautiful views. Head to the sparkling marbled central square overlooked by the Town Hall and surrounded by a celebrated collection of neoclassical buildings facing up across narrow streets. A town of peeking bell towers and cobalt-blue domed churches – stop by the Church of the Assumption which treasures an original El Greco wonder inside. Further up you’ll find the small monastery-sprinkled medieval village of Ano Syros. Settled on a hill it offers a glorious view down over the port and white dwellings of Ermoupoli below. You can visit Capuchin Monastery which was built in the 16th century to help the underprivileged. Encounter the Vamvakaris Museum dedicated to Markos Vamvakaris a famous rebetiko musician born here in 1905. Of course Syros is also surrounded by plenty of blissful beaches if you’d rather hit the sands. Finikas beach is nearby and a long luxurious stretch complete with sunbeds and umbrellas. Perfect for catching some sun and shade and watching the blue seawater twinkling.

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Famed for its location on important trading routes, this Saronic Island offers plenty of spice. Revered across Greece for its leading role in the uprising against the Ottomans, Spetses symbolically hoisted the flag of rebellion aloft over the Cathedral of Ayios Nikolaos, back in 1821. Today, the earthy, rustic atmosphere charms all visitors, and you’ll love sitting in quiet cafes, watching as horse-drawn carriages trundle by, and lapping up the peace and quiet in the car-free town.

Rethymnon is Crete’s third-largest town, after Heraklion and Hania. The population (about 30,000) steadily increases as the town expands—a new quarter follows the coast to the east of the Old Town, where the beachfront has been tastelessly developed with large hotels and other resort facilities catering to tourists on package vacations. However, much of Rethymnon’s charm perseveres in the old Venetian quarter, which is crowded onto a compact peninsula dominated by the huge, fortified Venetian castle known as the Fortezza. Wandering through the narrow alleyways, you come across handsome carved-stone Renaissance doorways belonging to vanished mansions, fountains, archways, and wooden Turkish houses with latticework screens on the balconies to protect the women of the house from prying eyes.

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A romantic arrival below honey-coloured Venetian fortifications welcomes you to the historic heart of Rethymnon. Sandwiched between the sprawling city of Heraklion and the pretty old town of Chania Rethymnon offers history and gorgeous swathes of wide sandy beaches. Delve into the area’s heritage beauty and mythology – surrounded by legendary caves where Zeus is said to have lived monasteries that perch on mountain slopes and gorges that slice through dramatic island scenery. Hours slide past at the beautiful Venetian harbour where coffee cups are cradled and conversations linger in the sun as occasional fishing boats bob by. Rethymnon is one of Crete’s prettiest places and wandering the old town soaking in the charm is a day well spent. Stop off at ivy-tangled cafes in hidden courtyards and admire colourful ornate doorways. Wander to the sparkling water of Rimondi fountain which has quenched the thirst of locals since 1626. To the east Rethymno Beach unravels with well-maintained facilities and plenty of room to relax or swim in the warm Aegean’s embrace. Episkopi Beach is another leisurely option unwinding to the west. Outside of Rethymnon farms cultivate olives and grapes on the sunned slopes – best enjoyed with freshly baked bread and a selection of sheep’s cheese. A splash of local raki – a moreish brandy shot – will also go down a treat. Or dig deep into Crete’s rich archaeological past and Minoan history at Knossos’s ancient city and the world-class Heraklion’s Archaeological Museum.

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If you feel a sense of déjà vu when you arrive in Amorgos don’t be surprised. The little island in the Cyclades found fame in the late 1980s thanks to Luc Besson’s cult film “The Big Blue”. But movie stars aside (and for anyone who has seen the film you know we are talking about the dolphins who are the real stars of the show) Amorgos is what everything a Greek island should be. Think pink bougainvillea climbing up every whitewashed wall and scarlet geraniums spilling out of every blue framed window. Small friendly cafes line the (labyrinthine cobbled) streets beach bars serve tall glasses of ouzo over ice and traditional tavernas serve everything from souvlaki to tzatziki. Amorgos might be most famous however for its lack of mass tourism. You won’t find any wild nightclubs nor luxury boutiques here. Instead you’ll feel the pull of the past with the vestiges of a Minoan city the beautiful 13-th century Venetian Kastro and its windmills and the 11th century Pangaea Hozoviotissa Monastery. Nature lovers will no doubt be in their element here too: seven main trails connect the villages to each other. Most hikes take around an hour and are considered easy but there are one or two exceptions so beware! Divers will also be happy the southern end of the island is home to the famous shipwreck features in The Big Blue. Now rife with algae it is a prime feeding spot for the local marine life.

It’s no wonder that all roads lead to the fascinating and maddening metropolis of Athens. Lift your eyes 200 feet above the city to the Parthenon, its honey-color marble columns rising from a massive limestone base, and you behold architectural perfection that has not been surpassed in 2,500 years. But, today, this shrine of classical form dominates a 21st-century boomtown. To experience Athens—Athína in Greek—fully is to understand the essence of Greece: ancient monuments surviving in a sea of cement, startling beauty amid the squalor, tradition juxtaposed with modernity. Locals depend on humor and flexibility to deal with the chaos; you should do the same. The rewards are immense. Although Athens covers a huge area, the major landmarks of the ancient Greek, Roman, and Byzantine periods are close to the modern city center. You can easily walk from the Acropolis to many other key sites, taking time to browse in shops and relax in cafés and tavernas along the way. From many quarters of the city you can glimpse “the glory that was Greece” in the form of the Acropolis looming above the horizon, but only by actually climbing that rocky precipice can you feel the impact of the ancient settlement. The Acropolis and Filopappou, two craggy hills sitting side by side; the ancient Agora (marketplace); and Kerameikos, the first cemetery, form the core of ancient and Roman Athens. Along the Unification of Archaeological Sites promenade, you can follow stone-paved, tree-lined walkways from site to site, undisturbed by traffic. Cars have also been banned or reduced in other streets in the historical center. In the National Archaeological Museum, vast numbers of artifacts illustrate the many millennia of Greek civilization; smaller museums such as the Goulandris Museum of Cycladic Art Museum and the Byzantine and Christian Museum illuminate the history of particular regions or periods. Athens may seem like one huge city, but it is really a conglomeration of neighborhoods with distinctive characters. The Eastern influences that prevailed during the 400-year rule of the Ottoman Empire are still evident in Monastiraki, the bazaar area near the foot of the Acropolis. On the northern slope of the Acropolis, stroll through Plaka (if possible by moonlight), an area of tranquil streets lined with renovated mansions, to get the flavor of the 19th-century’s gracious lifestyle. The narrow lanes of Anafiotika, a section of Plaka, thread past tiny churches and small, color-washed houses with wooden upper stories, recalling a Cycladic island village. In this maze of winding streets, vestiges of the older city are everywhere: crumbling stairways lined with festive tavernas; dank cellars filled with wine vats; occasionally a court or diminutive garden, enclosed within high walls and filled with magnolia trees and the flaming trumpet-shaped flowers of hibiscus bushes. Formerly run-down old quarters, such as Thission, Gazi and Psirri, popular nightlife areas filled with bars and mezedopoleia (similar to tapas bars), are now in the process of gentrification, although they still retain much of their original charm, as does the colorful produce and meat market on Athinas. The area around Syntagma Square, the tourist hub, and Omonia Square, the commercial heart of the city about 1 km (½ mi) northwest, is distinctly European, having been designed by the court architects of King Otho, a Bavarian, in the 19th century. The chic shops and bistros of ritzy Kolonaki nestle at the foot of Mt. Lycabettus, Athens’s highest hill (909 feet). Each of Athens’s outlying suburbs has a distinctive character: in the north is wealthy, tree-lined Kifissia, once a summer resort for aristocratic Athenians, and in the south and southeast lie Glyfada, Voula, and Vouliagmeni, with their sandy beaches, seaside bars, and lively summer nightlife. Just beyond the city’s southern fringes is Piraeus, a bustling port city of waterside fish tavernas and Saronic Gulf views.

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A city of legend, civilisation and enduring culture, Athens is a majestic and magical urban sprawl. Extraordinary elegance and grace combine with grit and graft in Greece’s capital, where highways encase ruins from antiquity, and gleaming museums and galleries stand beside concrete sprayed with edgy street art. These contrasts enhance and elevate the wonders of this 2,500-year-old city, however, which can count notable contributions to philosophy, drama and democracy, among its global legacy. Piraeus’ giant port and naval base welcome you to the edge of the Athens’ urban area. From there it’s a simple jaunt to the centre. The majestic ancient citadel of the Acropolis dominates an elevated platform and is a constant presence as you explore the city. The wonderful remains of the columned temple of the Parthenon – which date back to the 5th century BC – stand here, representing the pinnacle of classical architecture. The nearby Acropolis Museum adds context to your visit and frames the broad views from its giant glass windows. Or rise up Mount Lycabettus, to be rewarded with perhaps Athens’ best panorama of the Acropolis sitting high over the city on its grand stage. See the marble horseshoe of the Old Olympic Stadium, where the first modern Olympics were held in 1896, for more of the city’s enduring legacy. Elsewhere, golden beaches and temples stretch out along the coastline, should you wish to explore a little further afield. Coffee is an art form to the Greeks, and it’s an unwritten rule that coffee time must never be rushed. So prepare to settle down for a couple of hours and lose yourself in a good chat. Feeling hungry – try traditional souvlaki made with sauces handed from generation to generation.