Star Collector: Blue Seas of the Windward Islands

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Today we visit “Pompeii of the Caribbean”—an island that is half lush and green, half gray and covered in ash by a volcano in 1995. And if a half-buried city isn’t intriguing enough, there are black-sand beaches and a perplexing Irish heritage to explore.

This small group of islands lies opposite the western part of Guadeloupe. They were discovered in November 1493 by Columbus, who named them Los Santos. French settlers established themselves in 1648 and changed the name to Iles des Saintes, commonly known as Les Saintes. Since then the islands have been closely connected with Guadeloupe. Until a recent influx of tourism, Les Saintes were among the Caribbean’s most unspoiled destinations. Only two of the eight islands are inhabited: Terre-de-Bas and Terre-de-Haut. The latter is known for its impressive Fort Napoleon built in the early 19th century to replace an earlier 17th-century fort. From its vantage point there are fine views of the many tiny islets scattered in the bay and across to Guadeloupe. Terre-de-Haut is the main island of Les Saintes, with steeply scarped hills, scenic valleys, hidden coves and beautiful beaches. Its main settlement consists of a charming village of red-roofed houses situated along a curving bay. A number of small boutiques and gift shops invite browsing. Quaint cafés and restaurants offer food and drink. To the east of the village lies Grande Anse, a fine sand beach. Most of the attractions on this small island can be seen on foot. With just a few vehicles on the island, there are no organized tours possible. Time ashore here is at your leisure.

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This is the Caribbean as you’ve always imagined it, with yacht-filled harbors set against volcanic mountains and endless stretches of palm-fringed beach. The underwater world here attracted the likes of Jacques Cousteau, but even novice snorkelers will enjoy exploring these impossibly blue waters.

Although it’s one of the smallest capitals in the Caribbean, Roseau has the highest concentration of inhabitants of any town in the eastern Caribbean. Caribbean vernacular architecture and a bustling marketplace transport visitors back in time. Although you can walk the entire town in about an hour, you’ll get a much better feel for the place on a leisurely stroll. For some years now, the Society for Historical Architectural Preservation and Enhancement (SHAPE) has organized programs and projects to preserve the city’s architectural heritage. Several interesting buildings have already been restored. Lilac House, on Kennedy Avenue, has three types of gingerbread fretwork, latticed verandah railings, and heavy hurricane shutters. The J.W. Edwards Building, at the corner of Old and King George V sreets, has a stone base and a wooden second-floor gallery. The Old Market Plaza is the center of Roseau’s historic district, which was laid out by the French on a radial plan rather than a grid, so streets such as Hanover, King George V, and Old radiate from this area. South of the marketplace is the Fort Young Hotel, built as a British fort in the 18th century; the nearby statehouse, public library, and Anglican cathedral are also worth a visit. New developments at the bay front on Dame M.E. Charles Boulevard have brightened up the waterfront.

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Get ready for a full day with plenty to do. Snorkel alongside brilliant parrot fish in the bubbly waters of Champagne Beach. Take a break to enjoy more than 150 species of plants and brilliant red-necked Jaco parrots at the botanical gardens. If you’re up for an optional hike, don’t miss Boiling Lake and the Valley of Desolation at Dominica’s Morne Trois Pitons National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

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Martinique offers a delightful and distinctive blend of French and Caribbean influences, with a bounty of historical sites, museums and a wide array of excellent shopping. Be sure to take a tour of the beautiful Jardin de Balata Botanical Gardens with exotic plants from around the world and a treetop walkway affording mountain views.

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The UNESCO site Pitons’ with their two majestic volcanic peaks and 24 miles of vibrant coral reef welcome you to St. Lucia. Nearby Pigeon Island National Park features impressive ruins of English forts, archaeological relics of Arawak Indians, and splendid beaches.

Located beside the island’s only natural harbour, the capital of Barbados combines modern and colonial architecture with glorious palm tree-lined beaches and a number of historical attractions. Experience the relaxed culture of the city renowned for its British-style parliament buildings and vibrant beach life, and seek out the Anglican church and the 19th-century Barbados Garrison. The distance between the ship and your tour vehicle may vary. This distance is not included in the excursion grades.

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Jolly old England comes to life in the city and its garrison, both UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Further afield, you’ll find historic sugar plantations and the fairyland magic of Harrison’s Cave.

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The UNESCO site Pitons’ with their two majestic volcanic peaks and 24 miles of vibrant coral reef welcome you to St. Lucia. Nearby Pigeon Island National Park features impressive ruins of English forts, archaeological relics of Arawak Indians, and splendid beaches.

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The UNESCO site Pitons’ with their two majestic volcanic peaks and 24 miles of vibrant coral reef welcome you to St. Lucia. Nearby Pigeon Island National Park features impressive ruins of English forts, archaeological relics of Arawak Indians, and splendid beaches.

The typical image of a lush tropical paradise comes to life on the friendly island of St Lucia. Despite its small size – just 27 miles long and 14 miles wide – St Lucia is rich in natural splendour with dense emerald rainforest, banana plantations and orchards of coconut, mango and papaya trees. The twin peaks of Les Pitons, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site rise dramatically 2,000 feet into the sky and dominate the island. Look out for unusual birds with brilliant plumage such as the St Lucia parrot, see a surprising diversity of exotic flora and enjoy the warm hospitality of the islanders in the small villages and open-air markets. Please be aware that St Lucia is a small, mountainous island, with steep, winding and bumpy roads. Customers with back and neck problems should take this into consideration when booking an excursion.

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The capital and largest city of St. Lucia is a bustling port where shoppers flock. Most of the city’s historic buildings were destroyed in major fires between 1785 and 1948 but you’ll see the beautiful, scenic backdrop of Morne Fortune (elev. 2,795 ft.) and the bustling harbor. Visit the Castries Market for handicrafts, fruits and vegetables, see the murals painted by a local artist and housed in the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, and check out one of the many restaurants or Derek Walcott Square.

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Located near the town of Soufriere, St. Lucia the Pitons are a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a spectacular landmark. Gros Piton is 2,619 feet high (798 meters) and Petit Piton is 2,438 feet high (743 meters). Gros Piton is home to at least 148 plant species and 27 bird species (5 of them endemic) and Petit Piton has 97 plant species with 8 rare tree species.

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Charming Kingstown, the capital and main commercial center of St. Vincent & the Grenadines is known for its churches, cobblestone streets, colonial buildings and the St. Vincent Botanical Gardens, founded in 1765. Steep hills surround the town, with Fort Charlotte sitting high on a ridge north of the city, offering panoramic views of Kingstown and the surrounding islands. Other sites to see include St. George’s Anglican Cathedral, an 1820s structure adorned with stained glass windows, St. Mary’s Catholic Cathedral, built in 1823, with its lovely Gothic spires and Romanesque columns and arches.

The small island of Mayreau, just one and 1/2 square miles in area (3.9 square kilometres) is the smallest inhabited island of The Grenadines, and is part of the independent state of St.Vincent in the eastern Caribbean Sea. Two of the best known islands in The Grenadines are Mustique and Bequia, the second largest island in this group. The Grenadine Islands are strung out in a gentle sweep between St.Vincent and Grenada. Most visitors to Mayreau arrive from cruise ships, on the regular ferry, or by yacht. There are no proper roads on the island, only a few vehicles, no airport and only a single unnamed village. Mayreau and the neighboring Tobago Cays are very popular for divers and snorkellers. Saline Bay, on the west coast of the island, has a wonderful broad beach and a few local vendors selling T-shirts and local craft. A climb up the road to the hilltop village on the island provides breathtaking views across Mayreau, Canouan, the Tobago Cays and Carriacou.

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With fewer than 300 inhabitants and miles of secluded beaches, it’s easy to feel as if you’re on your own private island. Saline Bay is a delightful anchorage that separates the Caribbean from the Atlantic – and a perfect place to play with some of the toys from the Watersports Platform.

Nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves, cocoa those heady aromas fill the air in Grenada (pronounced gruh-nay-da). Only 21 miles (33½ km) long and 12 miles (19½ km) wide, the Isle of Spice is a tropical gem of lush rain forests, white-sand beaches, secluded coves, exotic flowers, and enough locally grown spices to fill anyone’s kitchen cabinet. St. George’s is one of the most picturesque capital cities in the Caribbean, St. George’s Harbour is one of the most picturesque harbors, and Grenada’s Grand Anse Beach is one of the region’s finest beaches. The island has friendly, hospitable people and enough good shopping, restaurants, historic sites, and natural wonders to make it a popular port of call. About one-third of Grenada’s visitors arrive by cruise ship, and that number continues to grow each year. Grenada’s capital is a bustling West Indian city, much of which remains unchanged from colonial days. Narrow streets lined with shops wind up, down, and across steep hills. Brick warehouses cling to the waterfront, and pastel-painted homes rise from the waterfront and disappear into steep green hills. The horseshoe-shaped St. George’s Harbour, a submerged volcanic crater, is arguably the prettiest harbor in the Caribbean. Schooners, ferries, and tour boats tie up along the seawall or at the small dinghy dock. The Carenage (pronounced car-a-nahzh), which surrounds the harbor, is the capital’s center. Warehouses, shops, and restaurants line the waterfront. The Christ of the Deep statue that sits on the pedestrian plaza at the center of The Carenage was presented to Grenada by Costa Cruise Line in remembrance of its ship, Bianca C, which burned and sank in the harbor in 1961 and is now a favorite dive site. An engineering feat for its time, the 340-foot-long Sendall Tunnel was built in 1895 and named for Walter Sendall, an early governor. The narrow tunnel, used by both pedestrians and vehicles, separates the harbor side of St. George’s from the Esplanade on the bay side of town, where you can find the markets (produce, meat, and fish), the Cruise Ship Terminal, the Esplanade Mall, and the public bus station.

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Inhale the intoxicating aroma of the “Isle of Spice” as your eyes feast on what is widely claimed to be the most beautiful city in the Caribbean. Spend the day on 2-mile-long Grand Anse beach, and before you go, a taste of nutmeg ice cream is a must.

Bequia is a Carib word meaning “island of the cloud.” Hilly and green with several golden-sand beaches, Bequia is 9 miles (14½ km) south of St. Vincent’s southwestern shore; with a population of 5,000, it’s the largest of the Grenadines. Although boatbuilding, whaling, and fishing have been the predominant industries here for generations, sailing has now become almost synonymous with Bequia. Admiralty Bay is a favored anchorage for both privately owned and chartered yachts. Lodgings range from comfortable resorts and villas to cozy West Indian—style inns. Bequia’s airport and the frequent ferry service from St. Vincent make this a favorite destination for day-trippers, as well. The ferry docks in Port Elizabeth, a tiny town with waterfront bars, restaurants, and shops where you can buy handmade souvenirs—including the exquisitely detailed model sailboats that are a famous Bequia export. The Easter Regatta is held during the four-day Easter weekend, when revelers gather to watch boat races and celebrate the island’s seafaring traditions with food, music, dancing, and competitive games.To see the views, villages, beaches, and boatbuilding sites around Bequia, hire a taxi at the jetty in Port Elizabeth. Several usually line up under the almond trees to meet each ferry from St. Vincent.

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The only ships in port are those small enough to anchor alongside the yachts and fishing boats in Admiralty Bay. Bequia’s whaling heritage is on display in the museum in pretty Port Elizabeth, or watch the island’s famed model boat builders at work on their miniature masterpieces.

Located beside the island’s only natural harbour, the capital of Barbados combines modern and colonial architecture with glorious palm tree-lined beaches and a number of historical attractions. Experience the relaxed culture of the city renowned for its British-style parliament buildings and vibrant beach life, and seek out the Anglican church and the 19th-century Barbados Garrison. The distance between the ship and your tour vehicle may vary. This distance is not included in the excursion grades.

Day itinerary:

Jolly old England comes to life in the city and its garrison, both UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Further afield, you’ll find historic sugar plantations and the fairyland magic of Harrison’s Cave.