Treasures of the Mekong

Romantically referred to by the French as the Pearl of the Orient, Ho Chi Minh City today is a super-charged city of sensory overload. Motorbikes zoom day and night along the wide boulevards, through the narrow back alleys and past vendors pushing handcarts hawking goods of all descriptions. Still called Saigon by most residents, this is Vietnam’s largest city and the engine driving the country’s current economic resurgence, but despite its frenetic pace, it’s a friendlier place than Hanoi and locals will tell you the food—simple, tasty, and incorporating many fresh herbs—is infinitely better than in the capital.This is a city full of surprises. The madness of the city’s traffic—witness the oddball things that are transported on the back of motorcycles—is countered by tranquil pagodas, peaceful parks, quirky coffee shops, and whole neighborhoods hidden down tiny alleyways, although some of these quiet spots can be difficult to track down. Life in Ho Chi Minh City is lived in public: on the back of motorcycles, on the sidewalks, and in the parks. Even when its residents are at home, they’re still on display. With many living rooms opening onto the street, grandmothers napping, babies being rocked, and food being prepared, are all in full view of passersby.Icons of the past endure in the midst of the city’s headlong rush into capitalism. The Hotel Continental, immortalized in Graham Greene’s The Quiet American, continues to stand on the corner of old Indochina’s most famous thoroughfare, the rue Catinat, known to American G.I.s during the Vietnam War as Tu Do (Freedom) Street and renamed Dong Khoi (Uprising) Street by the Communists. The city still has its ornate opera house and its old French city hall, the Hôtel de Ville. The broad colonial boulevards leading to the Saigon River and the gracious stucco villas are other remnants of the French colonial presence. Grisly reminders of the more recent past can be seen at the city’s war-related museums. Residents, however, prefer to look forward rather than back and are often perplexed by tourists’ fascination with a war that ended 40 years ago.The Chinese influence on the country is still very much in evidence in the Cholon district, the city’s Chinatown, but the modern office towers and international hotels that mark the skyline symbolize Vietnam’s fixation on the future.

Day programme:

The morning is spent at the Cu Chi Tunnels, where more than 250 kilometres of underground passages dug by hand during the war reveal themselves with staggering ingenuity. Return to the city for a Pho lunch, with the afternoon at leisure.Scenic Freechoice Dining: This evening, Scenic Freechoice dining offers a Vespa night tour stopping at the city’s finest street food haunts with complimentary drinks; a refined dinner at Mandarine Restaurant styled on the imperial courts of Hue; a table at Noir Dining in the Dark, dedicated to supporting the visually impaired community; a vintage jeep street food experience; or Buffet 19 at the hotel.

Romantically referred to by the French as the Pearl of the Orient, Ho Chi Minh City today is a super-charged city of sensory overload. Motorbikes zoom day and night along the wide boulevards, through the narrow back alleys and past vendors pushing handcarts hawking goods of all descriptions. Still called Saigon by most residents, this is Vietnam’s largest city and the engine driving the country’s current economic resurgence, but despite its frenetic pace, it’s a friendlier place than Hanoi and locals will tell you the food—simple, tasty, and incorporating many fresh herbs—is infinitely better than in the capital.This is a city full of surprises. The madness of the city’s traffic—witness the oddball things that are transported on the back of motorcycles—is countered by tranquil pagodas, peaceful parks, quirky coffee shops, and whole neighborhoods hidden down tiny alleyways, although some of these quiet spots can be difficult to track down. Life in Ho Chi Minh City is lived in public: on the back of motorcycles, on the sidewalks, and in the parks. Even when its residents are at home, they’re still on display. With many living rooms opening onto the street, grandmothers napping, babies being rocked, and food being prepared, are all in full view of passersby.Icons of the past endure in the midst of the city’s headlong rush into capitalism. The Hotel Continental, immortalized in Graham Greene’s The Quiet American, continues to stand on the corner of old Indochina’s most famous thoroughfare, the rue Catinat, known to American G.I.s during the Vietnam War as Tu Do (Freedom) Street and renamed Dong Khoi (Uprising) Street by the Communists. The city still has its ornate opera house and its old French city hall, the Hôtel de Ville. The broad colonial boulevards leading to the Saigon River and the gracious stucco villas are other remnants of the French colonial presence. Grisly reminders of the more recent past can be seen at the city’s war-related museums. Residents, however, prefer to look forward rather than back and are often perplexed by tourists’ fascination with a war that ended 40 years ago.The Chinese influence on the country is still very much in evidence in the Cholon district, the city’s Chinatown, but the modern office towers and international hotels that mark the skyline symbolize Vietnam’s fixation on the future.

Day programme:

After breakfast, visit the War Museum and the Reunification Palace, whose gates were famously breached by tanks in April 1975.Then transfer to Saigon Port where the Scenic Spirit awaits. Lunch is on board as the ship departs down the Saigon River, the city giving way to the delta. By evening, anchored at the entrance to the Cho Gao Canal, the quiet rhythm of the Mekong has already begun to settle. Your dedicated personal butler is on hand at any hour.

Day programme:

The day opens with a champagne breakfast as the Scenic Spirit transits the Cho Gao Canal, one of the Mekong Delta’s great arterial waterways, with upwards of 1,800 vessels navigating it every day.Scenic Freechoice: Once on the Mekong itself, Scenic Freechoice in Cai Be: a sampan journey to Tan Phong Island through fruit orchards and cottage industries producing rice paper and coconut sweets; afternoon tea at the colonial Le Longanier restaurant with live traditional music; or a cocktail and mocktail masterclass on board using fresh local ingredients.

Day programme:

A sampan into Sa Dec’s lively wet market reveals two hours of local trade — live fish, frogs, produce and the grand home of Mr Huynh Thuy Le, whose love affair with a young French woman inspired Marguerite Duras’ celebrated novel L’Amant.Return to the Scenic Spirit for an afternoon at leisure as the ship sails the six-hour journey toward Tan Chau. After anchoring before dinner, a festive themed evening on the Sun Deck with a lion dance performed by local artists brings the day to a memorable close.

Day programme:

Start the morning with a yoga class, the gym or the sauna before heading ashore for Scenic Freechoice around Tan Chau.Scenic Freechoice: A sampan through the 850-hectare Tra Su Bird Sanctuary drifts through protected wetland home to more than 100 species of waterbirds. On Evergreen Island, join local farmers for a morning of discovery before a xe loi rickshaw ride to the Cao Dai temple, a remarkable fusion of Buddhist, Christian, Taoist and Confucian belief. A third option takes a speedboat to Chau Doc and the elaborate Tay An Temple at the foot of Sam Mountain.After lunch on board, the Scenic Spirit clears the Vietnamese-Cambodian border and sails onward overnight, Vietnam slipping quietly behind.

Phnom Penh, Cambodia’s busy capital, sits at the junction of the Mekong and Tonlé Sap rivers. It was a hub for both the Khmer Empire and French colonialists. On its walkable riverfront, lined with parks, restaurants and bars, are the ornate Royal Palace, Silver Pagoda and the National Museum, displaying artifacts from around the country. At the city’s heart is the massive, art deco Central Market.

Day programme:

The Cambodian capital comes into view as the Scenic Spirit approaches in the early morning.Scenic Freechoice: After breakfast, Scenic Freechoice offers a sombre but essential visit to the Killing Fields and Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum; a hands-on Cambodian cooking class starting at the local market; or a remork tour through the French colonial quarter and the Art Deco Central Market.Return to the Scenic Spirit for lunch, with the afternoon at leisure. This evening, a city lights tour leads to an exclusive Scenic Sundowners experience at a local rum distillery, with a private tasting.

Phnom Penh, Cambodia’s busy capital, sits at the junction of the Mekong and Tonlé Sap rivers. It was a hub for both the Khmer Empire and French colonialists. On its walkable riverfront, lined with parks, restaurants and bars, are the ornate Royal Palace, Silver Pagoda and the National Museum, displaying artifacts from around the country. At the city’s heart is the massive, art deco Central Market.

Day programme:

A morning drive to Oudong, Cambodia’s ancient capital, to experience the rhythms of a working monastery — resident monks, peaceful courtyards and, if timing allows, a traditional festival. Back in Phnom Penh, the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda command the afternoon, before a cultural performance by the Cambodian Student and Children’s Organisation on board and a Sundowner cocktail reception on the Sun Deck as the Scenic Spirit sets sail toward Silk Island.

Day programme:

A tuk tuk ride to the silk weaving farm on Oknha Tey reveals every stage of a craft that has defined this community for generations. After lunch, the ship calls at Angkor Ban, a small riverside settlement of century-old wooden houses that somehow survived the Khmer Rouge intact. On board as the ship sails toward Kampong Cham, guests are invited to learn the many ways of wearing a krama, the traditional Cambodian scarf.

Day programme:

Step ashore at Wat Hanchey, an ancient hilltop pagoda offering some of the finest elevated river views of the entire journey.Scenic EnrichReceive a traditional blessing from a resident monk, learn to pray within the pagoda, and participate in the alms ceremony – a contribution to the daily sustenance of the monks and a quietly profound experience.Scenic Freechoice: The afternoon brings Scenic Freechoice around Kampong Cham: the mountaintop pagoda of Phnom Pros with its blend of legend and difficult history; the layered temples of Wat Nokor Bachey; a drive through colonial shop houses, a French-established rubber plantation and a betel nut village; or a crossing to the remote Kho Penh Village on Pen Island by bamboo bridge. The farewell dinner with the Scenic Spirit crew closes the evening.

Day programme:

After disembarkation this morning your journey moves to Siem Reap via Kampong Thom and the ancient Angkorian bridge at Kampong Kdei, with a stop at a traditional stone cutters’ village along the way. Check in to the Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor for three nights, a legendary colonial address with French-inspired architecture and service that feels entirely of another era.This evening, VIP seats await at the Phare Circus, where Cambodian performers weave storytelling, music, dance and acrobatics into a show of genuine artistry.

Day programme:

The second day of your Siem Reap exploration starts with a delicious champagne buffet breakfast at the hotel.Scenic Freechoice: Your Scenic Freechoice takes the morning in any direction: the rose-pink sandstone of Banteay Srei temple and the Landmine Museum; artisan workshops at Senteurs d’Angkor; a village walk through Ta Brak; life on the Tonle Sap floating villages (July to February); a behind-the-scenes tour of the Angkor Wildlife Aquarium; or a tethered balloon flight over the temple complex with Angkor Wat visible below.The afternoon belongs to Angkor Wat itself, best seen as the afternoon light plays across its galleries and towers. After the day of adventure, tonight is free to shop away at the night markets of Siem Reap or venture to Pub Street, both in walking distance or a short tuk tuk ride from your hotel.

Day programme:

Scenic EnrichAn early departure brings its own reward as the sunrise shifts across Angkor Wat’s moat, followed by a champagne breakfast prepared by a Scenic-supported NGO bakery school near the temples.The morning continues through the jungle-enveloped Ta Prohm and the many-faced Bayon at Angkor Thom.Scenic EnrichThe afternoon is free before the final Scenic Enrich brings the Siem Reap chapter to a close: a private gala dinner within the grounds of the 10th-century Prasat Kravan temple, Apsara dancers performing by candlelight among the ruins with complimentary drinks throughout.

Day programme:

It is time to bid farewell to your fellow travellers and Scenic team as you get ready to depart Cambodia for your homeland or extended travels. Transfer to the airport and leave with a full camera and stunning memories to treasure.Rivers and waterways are subject to variations in water levels. While every effort is made to adhere to the planned itinerary, changes in river conditions, ad hoc local government regulations or local festivities may require journey modifications. These will be made based on the advice of local authorities or for safety reasons. Hotels are indicative and are subject to change.Please note: Preview itinerary subject to change.