Bridgetown to Cartagena

The oldest town in St. Lucia and the island’s former French colonial capital, Soufrière was founded by the French in 1746 and named for its proximity to the volcano of the same name. The wharf is the center of activity in this sleepy town (population, 9,000), particularly when a cruise ship anchors in pretty Soufrière Bay. French colonial influences are evident in the second-story verandahs, gingerbread trim, and other appointments of the wooden buildings that surround the market square. The market building itself is decorated with colorful murals. Soufrière, the site of much of St. Lucia’s renowned natural beauty, is the destination of most sightseeing trips. This is where you can get up close to the iconic Pitons and visit colonial capital of St. Lucia, with its “drive-in” volcano, botanical gardens, working plantations, waterfalls, and countless other examples of the natural beauty for which St. Lucia is deservedly famous.

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Overlooked by the sharp-peaked twins of the Pitons Soufriere enjoys one of St. Lucia’s most scenic locations. Rolling down to meet the turquoise sea water lush green vegetation surrounds the island’s first capital – which took its name from the simmering Sulphur Springs that burble nearby. A member of the French Windward Islands the Gallic flavour is strong here with candy-coloured colonial architecture adding to the island’s postcard-perfect appeal. The iconic pair of the Pitons have stood guard over this colourful town of seafront charm since its founding in 1746 – and they form the island’s proudest and most recognisable natural landmark. Rocketing up into the sky like giant pyramids they loom picturesquely above the jungle’s tangle and rich blue Caribbean waters. Below the Botanical Gardens bloom with elaborate displays of tropical plant life and gushing falls – like the Toraille Waterfall – glow as the water catches the sun’s light. As you’d expect St. Lucia also offers stunning golden beaches and turquoise waters where you can meet jewel-coloured fish like clownfish and angelfish hiding amongst the protective arms of healthy coral reefs. Enjoy fresh catches of the day in Soufriere’s restaurants or satisfy a sweeter tooth with a visit to the island’s chocolate producing cocoa groves.

Bequia is a Carib word meaning “island of the cloud.” Hilly and green with several golden-sand beaches, Bequia is 9 miles (14½ km) south of St. Vincent’s southwestern shore; with a population of 5,000, it’s the largest of the Grenadines. Although boatbuilding, whaling, and fishing have been the predominant industries here for generations, sailing has now become almost synonymous with Bequia. Admiralty Bay is a favored anchorage for both privately owned and chartered yachts. Lodgings range from comfortable resorts and villas to cozy West Indian—style inns. Bequia’s airport and the frequent ferry service from St. Vincent make this a favorite destination for day-trippers, as well. The ferry docks in Port Elizabeth, a tiny town with waterfront bars, restaurants, and shops where you can buy handmade souvenirs—including the exquisitely detailed model sailboats that are a famous Bequia export. The Easter Regatta is held during the four-day Easter weekend, when revelers gather to watch boat races and celebrate the island’s seafaring traditions with food, music, dancing, and competitive games.To see the views, villages, beaches, and boatbuilding sites around Bequia, hire a taxi at the jetty in Port Elizabeth. Several usually line up under the almond trees to meet each ferry from St. Vincent.

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An almost mythical utopia of virgin beaches, rustic rum shacks and bays so scenic you feel like you’re intruding – Bequia Island is an island mirage of Caribbean perfection. This is the real, unspoiled experience – and with just 6,000 locals living here, you quickly start to recognise the same smiling faces, welcoming you with outstretched arms. Offering glorious – often deserted – beaches of pure golden sand, and hillside sweeps of forest and almond trees, Bequia Island is an extraordinary feast for the senses. Unlike some of the flashier Caribbean islands, Bequia – a part of the Grenadines – is a rustic, unassuming and off-the-beaten-path choice. The staggeringly picturesque natural harbour, Admiralty Bay, greets you on arrival, and is peppered with day-tripping yachts bobbing on the gentle waves. The island’s tiny capital, Port Elizabeth, sits behind, with its bustling fruit and vegetable market, turtle sanctuary, and stalls selling hand-crafted model ships. This tiny, pretty island is ridged along the centre, and you can earn your beachside bliss with a gentle hike to the top of Mount Peggy, looking out over views of Grenada and St Vincent. At just seven miles long, you can discover the whole island in a few hours – but that would be to miss the point somewhat. Bequia Island coaxes you in to slow the pace and soothe your soul on blissful beaches, where you can revel in the uncomplicated joys of sitting, reading and swimming in heavenly shallow waters. The royally approved Princess Margaret Beach is one of the finest – an arching band of soft sand and cobalt-blue waters. As evening sets in, you may find you’re beckoned to share with communal barbecues of the day’s fresh catch with the locals, or to indulge in rum-heavy cocktails at beachside bars, lashed together from sea-blanched wooden limbs.

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Bonaire’s small, tidy capital city (population 3,000) is five minutes from the airport. The main drag, J.A. Abraham Boulevard, turns into Kaya Grandi in the center of town. Along it are most of the island’s major stores, boutiques, and restaurants. Across Kaya Grandi, opposite the Littman’s jewelry store, is Kaya L.D. Gerharts, with several small supermarkets, a handful of snack shops, and some of the better restaurants. Walk down the narrow waterfront avenue called Kaya C.E.B. Hellmund, which leads straight to the North and South piers. In the center of town, the Harbourside Mall has chic boutiques. Along this route is Ft. Oranje, with its cannons. From December through April, cruise ships dock in the harbor once or twice a week. The diminutive ocher-and-white structure that looks like a tiny Greek temple is the produce market, where one can find plenty of fresh produce brought over from Venezuela. Pick up the brochure Walking and Shopping in Kralendijk from the tourist office to get a map and complete list of all the monuments and sights in the town.

Dutch settlers came here in the 1630s, about the same time they sailed through the Verazzano Narrows to Manhattan, bringing with them original red-tile roofs, first used on the trade ships as ballast and later incorporated into the architecture of Willemstad. Much of the original colonial structures remain, but this historic city is constantly reinventing itself and the government monument foundation is always busy restoring buildings in one urban neighborhood or another. The salty air causes what is called “wall cancer” which causes the ancient abodes to continually crumble over time. The city is cut in two by Santa Anna Bay. On one side is Punda (the point)—crammed with shops, restaurants, monuments, and markets and a new museum retracing its colorful history. And on the other side is Otrobanda (literally meaning the “other side”), with lots of narrow, winding streets and alleyways (called “steekjes” in Dutch), full of private homes notable for their picturesque gables and Dutch-influenced designs. In recent years the ongoing regeneration of Otrobanda has been apparent, marked by a surge in development of new hotels, restaurants, and shops; the rebirth, concentrated near the waterfront, was spearheaded by the creation of the elaborate Kura Hulanda complex.There are three ways to cross the bay: by car over the Juliana Bridge; by foot over the Queen Emma pontoon bridge (locally called “The Swinging Old Lady”); or by free ferry, which runs when the pontoon bridge is swung open for passing ships. All the major hotels outside town offer free shuttle service to town once or twice daily. Shuttles coming from the Otrobanda side leave you at Riffort. From here it’s a short walk north to the foot of the pontoon bridge. Shuttles coming from the Punda side leave you near the main entrance to Ft. Amsterdam.

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Bright and brilliant colours coat the waterfront buildings of Willemstad, gleaming attractively below the generous Caribbean sun. The capital of the Carribean island Curacao, Willemstad is famous for its technicolour UNESCO World Heritage Site city centre, and a narrow channel connects the sea with the Schottegat harbour, which expands inland like a blooming flower. Settled by the Dutch in the 1630s, they brought colourful architecture, lavish red-roofed mansions, and gorgeous European-style waterfront buildings to this beautiful Caribbean island. Watching over the entrance to this luxurious port is Rif Fort – a 19th-century fortress, which looms above the Sint Anna Bay channel. From here, wind your way to the Queen Emma Bridge – a pontoon bridge known as the Swinging Old Lady, which was built in 1888 to connect Otrobanda and Punda. Enjoy the wonderful views of Willemstad’s lavish, pastel-coloured Punda waterfront set before you. Visit the small boats that pull up side by side to sell juicy fruits and vegetables, in a floating market on the waters below. At sunset, the gingerbread stretch bathes in lights, glowing evocatively as the last of the evening’s light ebbs away. Wander Willemstad to discover the lemon-shaded Mikve Israel-Emanuel Synagogue, said to be the oldest synagogue in the Americas, see the historic liqueur distillery or head for Queen Wilhelmina Park – where the letters ‘DUSHI’ are spelt out in a standing sign. You’ll hear this word a lot – the island’s favourite way of describing the little things that make life worth living. The beaches of Curacao are certainly ‘dushi’, with tempting sandy curves on practically every corner. Snorkel in the turquoise waves, among dashing fish life and sleek sea turtles.

Aruba’s capital is easily explored on foot. Its palm-lined central thoroughfare runs between old and new pastel-painted buildings of typical Dutch design (Spanish influence is also evident in some of the architecture). There are a lot of malls with boutiques and shops—the Renaissance mall carries high-end luxury items and designer fashions. A massive renovation in downtown has given Main Street (a.k.a. Caya G. F. Betico Croes) behind the Renaissance Resort a whole new lease on life: boutique malls, shops, and restaurants have opened next to well-loved family-run businesses. The pedestrian-only walkway and resting areas have unclogged the street, and the new eco-trolley is free and a great way to get around. At this writing, Linear Park was well and will showcase local merchants and artists. There will be activities along a boardwalk that will eventually run all the way to the end of Palm Beach, making it the longest of its kind in the Caribbean.

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Stroll multi-coloured Oranjestad – the capital of enchanting Aruba – and feel the sun’s bronzing kiss, on the shores of one of the sunniest islands in the Caribbean. Settle in for a day on the beach, to relish the stunning weather on some of the region’s finest shores – where white sands glow, gentle waves sparkle, and knotted divi divi trees lean. Offering sensational diving and snorkelling, you can swim in the shallow, warm waters, or head out on a catamaran or submarine to investigate further and deeper. If you can drag yourself away from the sparkling beaches and glowing turquoise waters, venture inland towards Bushiribana Gold Mill Ruins, which lie on the route to Aruba Natural Bridge. The vast natural arch collapsed in 2005, but picturesque Baby Bridge remains to take the plaudits at this scenic spot. The island takes its form from the looming, 165-metre-high volcanic hill called Hooiberg – named after the Dutch for ‘haystack’. The volcano’s cone is omnipresent as you traverse the island, and if you’re up for a challenge, you can take the wheezy rise up the 650 steps to the lookout. You’ll climb among sunbathing iguanas, and reaching cacti, to views that unravel as far as Venezuela’s coastline on clear days. Visit the island’s farms of butterflies and ostriches, or explore amongst Oranjestad’s Spanish and Dutch flavours. Pick out bargains from the fancy shops of the colourful boutique-lined streets, or choose from local makers selling hand-crafted wares. The multicultural blend extends to the cuisine that’s cooked up, with a tantalising fusion of the best of Dutch, Asian and Caribbean flavours.

Aruba’s capital is easily explored on foot. Its palm-lined central thoroughfare runs between old and new pastel-painted buildings of typical Dutch design (Spanish influence is also evident in some of the architecture). There are a lot of malls with boutiques and shops—the Renaissance mall carries high-end luxury items and designer fashions. A massive renovation in downtown has given Main Street (a.k.a. Caya G. F. Betico Croes) behind the Renaissance Resort a whole new lease on life: boutique malls, shops, and restaurants have opened next to well-loved family-run businesses. The pedestrian-only walkway and resting areas have unclogged the street, and the new eco-trolley is free and a great way to get around. At this writing, Linear Park was well and will showcase local merchants and artists. There will be activities along a boardwalk that will eventually run all the way to the end of Palm Beach, making it the longest of its kind in the Caribbean.

Day itinerary:

Stroll multi-coloured Oranjestad – the capital of enchanting Aruba – and feel the sun’s bronzing kiss, on the shores of one of the sunniest islands in the Caribbean. Settle in for a day on the beach, to relish the stunning weather on some of the region’s finest shores – where white sands glow, gentle waves sparkle, and knotted divi divi trees lean. Offering sensational diving and snorkelling, you can swim in the shallow, warm waters, or head out on a catamaran or submarine to investigate further and deeper. If you can drag yourself away from the sparkling beaches and glowing turquoise waters, venture inland towards Bushiribana Gold Mill Ruins, which lie on the route to Aruba Natural Bridge. The vast natural arch collapsed in 2005, but picturesque Baby Bridge remains to take the plaudits at this scenic spot. The island takes its form from the looming, 165-metre-high volcanic hill called Hooiberg – named after the Dutch for ‘haystack’. The volcano’s cone is omnipresent as you traverse the island, and if you’re up for a challenge, you can take the wheezy rise up the 650 steps to the lookout. You’ll climb among sunbathing iguanas, and reaching cacti, to views that unravel as far as Venezuela’s coastline on clear days. Visit the island’s farms of butterflies and ostriches, or explore amongst Oranjestad’s Spanish and Dutch flavours. Pick out bargains from the fancy shops of the colourful boutique-lined streets, or choose from local makers selling hand-crafted wares. The multicultural blend extends to the cuisine that’s cooked up, with a tantalising fusion of the best of Dutch, Asian and Caribbean flavours.

Day itinerary:

Santa Marta lies at the foot of the snowcapped Sierra Nevada, the world’s highest coastal range. The mountains are largely protected within Parque Nacional Tayrona. Hidden on their slopes are the pre-Columbian ruins of La Ciudad Perdida. Although Santa Marta was founded in 1525, modern industry and architecture largely obscure its colonial heritage. Today the city’s 200,000 inhabitants rely heavily on the deep-water port, where banana boats are anchored in thick clusters. Most of the cargo is legitimate, but Santa Marta also handles more contraband than any other Colombian port. In the 1970s that meant mostly marijuana; today cocaine reigns supreme. Santa Marta is mostly nonchalant and friendly, but inquisitiveness in this feral, fascinating city is unwise; some of its residents carry weapons as a matter of course.

Cartagena’s magnificent city walls and fortresses, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, enclose a well-restored historic center (the Cuidad Amurallada, or walled city) with plazas, churches, museums, and shops that have made it a lively coastal vacation spot for South Americans and others. New hotels and restaurants make the walled city a desirable place to stay, and the formerly down-at-the-heels Getsemaní neighborhood attracts those seeking a bohemian buzz. The historic center is a small section of Cartagena; many hotels are in the Bocagrande district, an elongated peninsula where high-rise hotels overlook a long, gray-sand beach.When it was founded in 1533 by Spanish conquistador Pedro de Heredia, Cartagena was the only port on the South American mainland. Gold and silver looted from indigenous peoples passed through here en route to Spain and attracted pirates, including Sir Francis Drake, who in 1586 torched 200 buildings. Cartagena’s walls protected the city’s riches as well as the New World’s most important African slave market.

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Get your sunglasses ready, because Cartagena is a riot of colour, charisma and Caribbean charm. The best way of seeing the city is by foot and soaking up the uniquely South American atmosphere. Stroll through the jumble of cobbled streets, step back in time, and enjoy one of the Caribbean’s loveliest destinations.Cartagena was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984 as a shining example of an extensive and complete system of military fortifications in South America. The city’s strategic location, on a secluded bay facing the Caribbean Sea, meant that it was an essential stop from Europe to the West Indies during the time of commercial and naval exploration. Vestiges of this time are still to be found on the walls of several of the beautiful buildings lining the streets of the old town. The magnificent city is a walled fortress that stretches for 11 kilometres, dating from 1533 and once played host to Sir Francis Drake, who passed through in 1586 (and set fire to 200 buildings during his visit).Despite its 16th century roots, Cartagena today is a modern and glorious riot of colour. Fuchsia pink bougainvillea tumbles down from turquoise painted balconies, while well-preserved colonial buildings painted in vibrant colours line the streets. Take shelter from the heat and enjoy the sensual atmosphere that is so exclusively Colombian by grabbing a seat in a local bar, ordering a plate of Empanadas and enjoying a Guaro—the colloquial name for aguardiente — the country’s national spirit.