Papeete to Auckland

Even high praise like the ‘world’s most beautiful island’ from Lonely Planet’s co-founder, Tony Wheeler, won’t prepare you for the intoxicating intensity of the coal blue ocean, the glow of the pure white sand, and the soothing ripple of the palm-tree forests at incredible Aitutaki. Breathless romance hangs thick in the air here, especially when a riot of purples, reds and oranges are spreading across the sky, accompanying the sun’s descent each evening. It wasn’t until 1789 that Europeans discovered this island haven, with the HMS Bounty’s crew arriving, just a few weeks before a mutiny tore them apart. The Europeans were beaten to the islands, however, by the streamlined wooden canoes of the Polynesian settlers, who arrived around 900AD. While Western missionaries would eventually visit to spread Christianity to the island – evidenced by the white, coral-encrusted walls of the many churches – their efforts to repress the people’s deep love of communal singing and dancing ultimately failed, and music forms a key component of the islanders’ culture to this day.The beaches here are flawless, and swaying in a hammock, suspended between leaning palm trees, as the ocean gently ruffles the sand nearby, feels gloriously indulgent. Aitutaki Lagoon is a huge aquamarine pool of water, alive with a kaleidoscopic swirl of tropical fish, which lurk just below the surface. You may even be lucky enough to spot turtles padding across the sand, scraping themselves towards the open ocean.The snorkelling opportunities here, and on One Foot Island – where you’ll want to acquire the badge of honour of having your passport stamped with the island’s iconic huge footprint – are sublime. Don’t miss the tiny island of Moturakau either, which is crammed full of exotic birds and crabs, who have dominion over the island’s tangled, jungle terrain. 

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When Lonely Planet co-founder describes somewhere as “the world’s most beautiful island” you can be sure that you are in for a treat. Incredible Aitutaki, inspiring Aitutaki, unbelievable, idyllic and unimaginable, there are simply not enough superlatives to describe quite how amazing Aitutaki is.Brought to light in 1779 by Captain Bligh, the Mutiny on the Bounty meant that Aitutaki has something of a bloodthirsty history. While Europeans missionaries eventually settled on the island in the 19th century (evidenced by the white, coral-encrusted walls of the many churches) the island’s Polynesian history dates to around 900AD. Traditional songs and dances from this period still exist (although Christian hymns, known as “imene metua” are also popular), and are performed by islanders with gusto and much pride.The island is part of the Cook Islands, one of the most secluded and romantic archipelagos in the world. With its powder white sand, warm turquoise waters and sense of casual luxury, it is easy to see why the island has earnt itself the moniker of honeymooner’s island. However, there is much more to Aitutaki than just fun in the sun. With a reef that completely encompasses a large turquoise lagoon, Aitutaki is considered one of the most spectacular diving and snorkelling destinations in the world. Added to the tropical excitement is that when entering the main village via Zodiac along a narrow channel – travellers will be greeted by a traditional and customary warrior challenge.

Nukualofa is the capital city of the Kingdom of Tonga, a group of islands in the South Pacific. The islands of Tonga are lined with coral reefs and white sand beaches, and are protected by picturesque lagoons and limestone cliffs. Tonga is also one of the very few places in the world where visitors have the opportunity to swim with whales in the tropical ocean waters.

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As the Kingdom of Tonga’s largest island and capital Nuku’alofa is the hub of city life with Tonga’s greatest concentration of hotels restaurants and nightlife. It is also the seat of Tonga’s government and the island’s historic center where you’ll find the royal palace the government and business districts as well as churches the colorful Central Market and ancient vestiges of the island’s storied past. As Tonga’s only deep-water port Nuku’alofa is also its hub for boat rides and excursions to the many outer islands.

Suva, a multiracial city, is the pulsing heart of the South Pacific. Its location is on a hilly peninsula in the southeast corner of Viti Levu Island, the largest in the Fijian archipelago. Suva was named the country’s capital in 1882; the former capital was Luvuka. Suva’s natural harbour was no doubt a deciding factor that prompted the change. Its port is the country’s main shipping facility, accommodating vessels from all over the world. The town is backed by the lush green hills of the Suva-Rewa range. The waterfront district, much of which is built on land reclaimed from tangled mangrove swamps, provides the hub for much of Suva’s activities. The downtown centre is a hodgepodge of high-rise office buildings, colonial houses with second-story verandas, parks and government structures. The northern and western mountains catch the trade winds, with the result being damp conditions year-round and frequent tropical downpours. Despite the ever-present possibility of showers, Suva is an excellent place to explore on foot. Many points of interest are located on Victoria Parade and along tree-shaded Queen Elizabeth Drive. Suva’s botanical park is lush with flowering plants, trees and green lawns. In its centre stands the Fiji Museum, where objects reflect 3,000 years of Fijian history. The museum boasts a fine collection of Melanesian artefacts and various exhibits that reflect on Fiji’s maritime era. Government House stands on a hillside surrounded by landscaped grounds. A stern, uniformed sentry guards the pillared gate entrance. The monthly Changing of the Guard is executed with almost as much pomp and ceremony as at London’s Buckingham Palace. Friendly Fiji will charm you; here Melanesia mixes with Polynesia, ancient India with Oceania and tradition with the modern world. The Fijian greeting “Bula!” is extended warmly to strangers on city streets and country roads. Fiji is one of the South Pacific’s most hospitable countries and a holiday destination that has much to offer in recreational activities, shopping and joyous celebrations.

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An island paradise of rich colours and verdant scenery Savusavu is a staggeringly beautiful and gloriously undeveloped South Pacific island. Fiji’s more tourist-orientated Viti Levu island is close by but the joy of Savusavu comes in venturing off the beaten track and delving into the heart of a tropical idyll where hidden villages welcome you with open arms. Revelling in its nickname as Fiji’s hidden paradise the country’s second-largest island is a place of adventure – and geothermically fuelled relaxation. Mud baths burble and hot springs simmer across the island adding to the sense that the land itself is alive and breathing. Trek the rainforests with parrots chattering overhead and see the colours splashed across the green landscapes and gardens by orchids and water lilies. Gardens overlook the gorgeous Savusavu Bay and you can walk between hundreds of palm varieties and trees that droop laden with exotic fruits. The sprawling rainforest opens up briefly to reveal Savusavu the island’s compact main town. Thriving coral reeds add yet more colour and life to the surrounding seabeds with spectacular snorkelling opportunities and the chance to spot bottlenose and spinner dolphins skipping and skimming acrobatically across the tips of the waves. The fertile environment also encourages black lip pearl oysters to thrive here leading to the development of one of the island’s treasured exports beautiful black pearls. Visit the bay’s farm to find out more.

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Inyeug Island better known as Mystery Island is part of the Tafea Province of Vanatu the southernmost collection of islands. This is a picturesque island with large rounded cliffs jutting from the water. The cliffs create protected lagoons with some of the lightest clearest waters in the world. The island is with the exception of an airstrip used twice weekly made up entirely of beaches and reefs. This place is ideal for relaxing swimming and snorkelling in the tranquil waters where many diverse tropical fishes hide between the corals.

With its elegant urban infrastructure in a stunning natural setting, Noumea is a truly unique island and part of the New Caledonia archipelago. Noumea started as a penal colony, but has since evolved to a lovely metropolis and today has almost two thirds of New Caledonia’s population. While much of the archipelago of New Caledonia has a large percentage of Kanak people – the indigenous inhabitants who live in tribal areas across the country – Noumea is predominantly European with a strong French influence. The city’s center and Place de Cocotiers, the main park, are located close to the harbor and several churches date back to the late 19th century. Other attractions include a world-class aquarium at Anse Vata, several long beaches to the south, and a noteworthy collection of Kanak and South Pacific objects at the Museum of New Caledonia. The architectural gem of the city is the Tjibaou Cultural Center, the structure of which resembles sails, or the roofs of Kanak houses hidden behind mangroves.

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Catch some shade in the city’s centre below Coconut Palm Square and absorb the vibrant fusion of French and Kanak cultures. Or take a leisurely open-air stroll along the waterfront where white boats bob and jostle on the lapping waters. Noumea is a perfect jumping-off point for serene island adventures too. Enjoy a voyage to the island paradise of Amedee Isl – a tiny green land with a narrow historic lighthouse rocketing up from its centre. Climb 247 steps for the stunning view of the blotchy blue waters all around. Or explore the waters to swim among turtles and orange clownfish. Set among the New Caledonian barrier reef there are incredible diving opportunities and glass-bottom boats offer you a dry window into the underwater world. Kick back on some of the softest sands imaginable and enjoy glorious sea views from the inviting shade of coconut palms. More island jaunts like Illot Maitre – which translates as the Master Isle – tempt where you’ll find idyllic strings of stilted bungalows laced across the crystal-clear shallow waters. Swim in the sparkling sea and sprawl across the white sand beaches that are waiting. Back in the city try soft coconut crab following a starter of New Caledonian prawns. Bougna is the traditional Melanesian meal of choice and a social experience where locals share a mix of vegetables and chicken in coconut milk slow-cooked for hours in a bed of banana leaves.

With its elegant urban infrastructure in a stunning natural setting, Noumea is a truly unique island and part of the New Caledonia archipelago. Noumea started as a penal colony, but has since evolved to a lovely metropolis and today has almost two thirds of New Caledonia’s population. While much of the archipelago of New Caledonia has a large percentage of Kanak people – the indigenous inhabitants who live in tribal areas across the country – Noumea is predominantly European with a strong French influence. The city’s center and Place de Cocotiers, the main park, are located close to the harbor and several churches date back to the late 19th century. Other attractions include a world-class aquarium at Anse Vata, several long beaches to the south, and a noteworthy collection of Kanak and South Pacific objects at the Museum of New Caledonia. The architectural gem of the city is the Tjibaou Cultural Center, the structure of which resembles sails, or the roofs of Kanak houses hidden behind mangroves.

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Catch some shade in the city’s centre below Coconut Palm Square and absorb the vibrant fusion of French and Kanak cultures. Or take a leisurely open-air stroll along the waterfront where white boats bob and jostle on the lapping waters. Noumea is a perfect jumping-off point for serene island adventures too. Enjoy a voyage to the island paradise of Amedee Isl – a tiny green land with a narrow historic lighthouse rocketing up from its centre. Climb 247 steps for the stunning view of the blotchy blue waters all around. Or explore the waters to swim among turtles and orange clownfish. Set among the New Caledonian barrier reef there are incredible diving opportunities and glass-bottom boats offer you a dry window into the underwater world. Kick back on some of the softest sands imaginable and enjoy glorious sea views from the inviting shade of coconut palms. More island jaunts like Illot Maitre – which translates as the Master Isle – tempt where you’ll find idyllic strings of stilted bungalows laced across the crystal-clear shallow waters. Swim in the sparkling sea and sprawl across the white sand beaches that are waiting. Back in the city try soft coconut crab following a starter of New Caledonian prawns. Bougna is the traditional Melanesian meal of choice and a social experience where locals share a mix of vegetables and chicken in coconut milk slow-cooked for hours in a bed of banana leaves.

The Tasman Sea on the west and the Pacific Ocean on the east meet at thetop of North Island at Cape Reinga. No matter what route you take, you’ll passfarms and forests, marvellous beaches, and great open spaces. The East Coast,up to the Bay of Islands, is Northland’s most densely populated, often withrefugees from bigger cities—looking for a more relaxed life—clustered aroundbreathtaking beaches. The first decision on the drive north comes at the footof the Brynderwyn Hills. Turning left will take you up the West Coast throughareas once covered with forests and now used for either agricultural orhorticulture. Driving over “the Brynderwyns,” as they are known,takes you to Whangarei, the only city in Northland. If you’re in the mood for adiversion, you can slip to the beautiful coastline and take in Waipu Cove, anarea settled by Scots, and Laings Beach, where million-dollar homes sit next tosmall Kiwi beach houses.An hour’s drive farther north is the Bay of Islands, known all over theworld for its beauty. There you will find lush forests, splendid beaches, andshimmering harbors. The Treaty of Waitangi was signed here in 1840 betweenMāoriand the British Crown, establishing the basis for the modern New Zealandstate. Every year on February 6, the extremely beautiful Waitangi Treaty Ground(the name means weeping waters) is the sight of a celebration of the treaty andprotests by Māori unhappy with it. Continuing north on the East Coast, theagricultural backbone of the region is even more evident and a series ofwinding loop roads off the main highway will take you to beaches that are bothbeautiful and isolated where you can swim, dive, picnic, or just laze. .The West Coast is even less populated, and the coastline is rugged andwindswept. In the Waipoua Forest, you will find some of New Zealand’s oldestand largest kauri trees; the winding road will also take you past mangroveswamps. Crowning the region is the spiritually significant Cape Reinga, theheadland at the top of the vast stretch of 90 Mile Beach, where it’s believedMāori souls depart after death. Today Māori make up roughly a quarter of thearea’s population (compared with the national average of about 15%). The legendaryMāori navigator Kupe was said to have landed on the shores of Hokianga Harbour,where the first arrivals made their home. Many different wi (tribes) livedthroughout Northland, including Ngapuhi (the largest), Te Roroa, Ngati Wai,Ngati Kuri, Te Aupouri, Ngaitakoto, Ngati Kahu, and Te Rarawa. Many Māoriherecan trace their ancestry to the earliest inhabitants

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The Tasman Sea on the west and the Pacific Ocean on the east meet at the top of North Island at Cape Reinga. No matter what route you take you’ll pass farms and forests marvellous beaches and great open spaces. The East Coast up to the Bay of Islands is Northland’s most densely populated often with refugees from bigger cities—looking for a more relaxed life—clustered around breathtaking beaches. The first decision on the drive north comes at the foot of the Brynderwyn Hills. Turning left will take you up the West Coast through areas once covered with forests and now used for either agricultural or horticulture. Driving over “the Brynderwyns ” as they are known takes you to Whangarei the only city in Northland. If you’re in the mood for a diversion you can slip to the beautiful coastline and take in Waipu Cove an area settled by Scots and Laings Beach where million-dollar homes sit next to small Kiwi beach houses. An hour’s drive farther north is the Bay of Islands known all over the world for its beauty. There you will find lush forests splendid beaches and shimmering harbors. The Treaty of Waitangi was signed here in 1840 between Māoriand the British Crown establishing the basis for the modern New Zealand state. Continuing north on the East Coast the agricultural backbone of the region is even more evident and a series of winding loop roads off the main highway will take you to beaches that are both beautiful and isolated where you can swim dive picnic or just laze.

Auckland is called the City of Sails, and visitors flying in will see why. On the East Coast is the Waitemata Harbour—a Māori word meaning sparkling waters—which is bordered by the Hauraki Gulf, an aquatic playground peppered with small islands where many Aucklanders can be found “mucking around in boats.”Not surprisingly, Auckland has some 70,000 boats. About one in four households in Auckland has a seacraft of some kind, and there are 102 beaches within an hour’s drive; during the week many are quite empty. Even the airport is by the water; it borders the Manukau Harbour, which also takes its name from the Māori language and means solitary bird.According to Māori tradition, the Auckland isthmus was originally peopled by a race of giants and fairy folk. When Europeans arrived in the early 19th century, however, the Ngāti-Whātua tribe was firmly in control of the region. The British began negotiations with the Ngāti-Whātua in 1840 to purchase the isthmus and establish the colony’s first capital. In September of that year the British flag was hoisted to mark the township’s foundation, and Auckland remained the capital until 1865, when the seat of government was moved to Wellington. Aucklanders expected to suffer from the shift; it hurt their pride but not their pockets. As the terminal for the South Sea shipping routes, Auckland was already an established commercial center. Since then the urban sprawl has made this city of approximately 1.3 million people one of the world’s largest geographically.A couple of days in the city will reveal just how developed and sophisticated Auckland is—the Mercer City Survey 2012 saw it ranked as the third-highest city for quality of life—though those seeking a New York in the South Pacific will be disappointed. Auckland is more get-up and go-outside than get-dressed-up and go-out. That said, most shops are open daily, central bars and a few nightclubs buzz well into the wee hours, especially Thursday through Saturday, and a mix of Māori, Pacific people, Asians, and Europeans contributes to the cultural milieu. Auckland has the world’s largest single population of Pacific Islanders living outside their home countries, though many of them live outside the central parts of the city and in Manukau to the south. The Samoan language is the second most spoken in New Zealand. Most Pacific people came to New Zealand seeking a better life. When the plentiful, low-skilled work that attracted them dried up, the dream soured, and the population has suffered with poor health and education. Luckily, policies are now addressing that, and change is slowly coming. The Pacifica Festival in March is the region’s biggest cultural event, attracting thousands to Western Springs. The annual Pacific Island Secondary Schools’ Competition, also in March, sees young Pacific Islander and Asian students compete in traditional dance, drumming, and singing. This event is open to the public.At the geographical center of Auckland city is the 1,082-foot Sky Tower, a convenient landmark for those exploring on foot and some say a visible sign of the city’s naked aspiration. It has earned nicknames like the Needle and the Big Penis—a counterpoint to a poem by acclaimed New Zealand poet James K. Baxter, which refers to Rangitoto Island as a clitoris in the harbor.The Waitemata Harbour has become better known since New Zealand staged its first defense of the America’s Cup in 2000 and the successful Louis Vuitton Pacific Series in early 2009. The first regatta saw major redevelopment of the waterfront. The area, where many of the city’s most popular bars, cafés, and restaurants are located, is now known as Viaduct Basin or, more commonly, the Viaduct. A recent expansion has created another area, Wynyard Quarter, which is slowly adding restaurants.These days, Auckland is still considered too bold and brash for its own good by many Kiwis who live “south of the Bombay Hills,” the geographical divide between Auckland and the rest of New Zealand (barring Northland). “Jafa,” an acronym for “just another f—ing Aucklander,” has entered the local lexicon; there’s even a book out called Way of the Jafa: A Guide to Surviving Auckland and Aucklanders. A common complaint is that Auckland absorbs the wealth from the hard work of the rest of the country. Most Aucklanders, on the other hand, still try to shrug and see it as the parochial envy of those who live in small towns. But these internal identity squabbles aren’t your problem. You can enjoy a well-made coffee in almost any café, or take a walk on a beach—knowing that within 30 minutes’ driving time you could be cruising the spectacular harbor, playing a round at a public golf course, or even walking in subtropical forest while listening to the song of a native tûî bird.

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Known as the ‘City of Sails’, its two harbours will tempt you with waterfront walks and the chance to breathe fresh sea air deep into your lungs while absorbing spectacular views of Auckland’s grand harbour bridge’s span. Take in the true scale of Auckland’s magnificent cityscape by ascending 192 metres to the Sky Tower and looking out over the city’s gleaming silver towers which reflect on the abundant waters below. Views over the bay and adjacent islands await and you can share elegant cocktails at this dizzying height above the mingling yachts of Viaduct Harbour. Immerse yourself in the rich history and culture of the area at Auckland Art Gallery Toi o Tāmaki. Set beside tranquil fountains and handsomely landscaped flowerbeds of Albert Park, the French-Renaissance building houses, New Zealand’s most extensive art collection and exhibits works from Māori and Pacific artists. New Zealand is world-renowned for its captivating natural scenery and day trips across the sparkling bays to nearby islands like Waiheke Tiritiri Matangi and Rangitoto are always tempting. Discover lava caves grape-laden vineyards and flourishing wildlife in the Hauraki Gulf’s islands. You’ll also find an exceptional 360-degree panorama over the city to the horizon beyond from the heights of ancient Mount Eden. The spectacular dormant volcano rises improbably from a city suburb and also lends its name to Eden Park – the unusual translucent stadium of New Zealand’s mighty All Blacks.