Star Collector: Kilts, Celts & Crepes

Ullapool is an ideal base for hiking throughout Sutherland and taking wildlife and nature cruises, especially to the Summer Isles. By the shores of salty Loch Broom, the town was founded in 1788 as a fishing station to exploit the local herring stocks. There’s still a smattering of fishing vessels, as well as visiting yachts and foreign ships. When their crews fill the pubs, Ullapool has a cosmopolitan feel. The harbor area comes to life when the Lewis ferry arrives and departs.

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The scenic fishing town of Ullapool is nestled on the shores of Loch Broom and is the gateway to the Northern Highlands. The North Atlantic Drift passes by here bringing moderate temperatures. Described as an outdoor paradise, Ullapool was voted one of the UK’s top 10 outdoor destinations. It offers a delightful choice of varied walks and footpaths. Nearby is the Inverpolly National Nature Reserve, home to pine martens, wildcats, and golden eagles and one of the most photographed hills in the area, Stac Pollaidh, with its unique shape.

Oban, “little bay” in Gaelic, today has a resident population of 8,500 and is the unofficial capital of the West Highlands – the “Gateway to the Isles.” The panoramic views of the mountains, lochs and islands which have captivated artists, authors, composers, and poets for centuries are as striking now as they were when Dunollie Castle, a ruined keep which has stood sentinel over the narrow entrance to the sheltered bay for around six hundred years, was the northern outpost of the Dalriadic Scots. It is no surprise to find Oban in the 21st-century remains a magnet for travellers from all over the world. The town’s present day popularity owes much to the Victorians, and as early as 1812, when the Comet steamship linked Oban with Glasgow, the town played host to intrepid travellers touring Staffa – the inspiration for Mendelssohn’s Hebridean Overture – and Iona – home of Scottish Christianity since St Columba stepped ashore in AD563. Indeed once Oban had the royal seal of approval from Queen Victoria, who called it “one of the finest spots we have seen,” the town’s destiny as an endearingly enchanting holiday destination was as firmly set as the lava columns of Fingal’s Cave in Oban is justifiably known as the “gateway to the Isles.” The town’s south pier is the embarkation point for car ferries to Mull, Coll, Tiree, Barra, South Uist, Colonsay, Lismore and Islay. From these islands you can travel further a field to Iona, Staffa and to many of the smaller less well known isles.

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Oban has developed into Scotland’s most popular West-Coast holiday town. Just outside the town stands Dunollie Castle, on a site that overlooks the bay and has been fortified since the Bronze Age. The charm of its Victorian harbor offers an excellent seafood scene, and is also a major gateway to the Hebrides.

Before English and Scottish settlers arrived in the 1600s, Belfast was a tiny village called Béal Feirste (“sandbank ford”) belonging to Ulster’s ancient O’Neill clan. With the advent of the Plantation period (when settlers arrived in the 1600s), Sir Arthur Chichester, from Devon in southwestern England, received the city from the English Crown, and his son was made Earl of Donegall. Huguenots fleeing persecution from France settled near here, bringing their valuable linen-work skills. In the 18th century, Belfast underwent a phenomenal expansion—its population doubled every 10 years, despite an ever-present sectarian divide. Although the Anglican gentry despised the Presbyterian artisans—who, in turn, distrusted the native Catholics—Belfast’s growth continued at a dizzying speed. The city was a great Victorian success story, an industrial boomtown whose prosperity was built on trade, especially linen and shipbuilding. Famously (or infamously), the Titanic was built here, giving Belfast, for a time, the nickname “Titanic Town.” Having laid the foundation stone of the city’s university in 1845, Queen Victoria returned to Belfast in 1849 (she is recalled in the names of buildings, streets, bars, monuments, and other places around the city), and in the same year, the university opened under the name Queen’s College. Nearly 40 years later, in 1888, Victoria granted Belfast its city charter. Today its population is nearly 300,000, tourist numbers have increased, and this dramatically transformed city is enjoying an unparalleled renaissance.This is all a welcome change from the period when news about Belfast meant reports about “the Troubles.” Since the 1994 ceasefire, Northern Ireland’s capital city has benefited from major hotel investment, gentrified quaysides (or strands), a sophisticated new performing arts center, and major initiatives to boost tourism. Although the 1996 bombing of offices at Canary Wharf in London disrupted the 1994 peace agreement, the ceasefire was officially reestablished on July 20, 1997, and this embattled city began its quest for a newfound identity.Since 2008, the city has restored all its major public buildings such as museums, churches, theaters, City Hall, Ulster Hall—and even the glorious Crown Bar—spending millions of pounds on its built heritage. A gaol that at the height of the Troubles held some of the most notorious murderers involved in paramilitary violence is now a major visitor attraction.Belfast’s city center is made up of three roughly contiguous areas that are easy to navigate on foot. From the south end to the north, it’s about an hour’s leisurely walk.

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Probably best known as the birthplace of the Titanic, Belfast was a hub for not only shipbuilding but also tobacco processing, rope-making and Irish linen in the early 20th century. Today the old shipyards are giving way to luxury apartments in what is known as the Titanic Quarter, home to the Titanic Belfast Centre, a beautiful star-shaped building covering the Titanic’s construction. Other must-sees include the Ulster Folk Museum and the Belfast Cathedral, as well as numerous award-winning restaurants and bars.

The Isle of Man, situated in the Irish Sea off the west coast of England, is a mountainous, cliff-fringed island and one of Britain’s most beautiful spots. Measuring just 30 miles by 13 miles, the Isle of Man remains semi-autonomous. With its own postage stamps, laws, currency, and the Court of Tynwald (the world’s oldest democratic parliament), the Isle of Man is rich with history and lore.Inhabited from Neolithic times, the island became a refuge for Irish missionaries after the 5th Century. Norsemen took the island during the 9th Century and sold it to Scotland in 1266. However, since the 14th Century, it has been held by England. Manx, the indigenous Celtic language, is still spoken by a small minority. The Isle of Man has no income tax, which has encouraged many Britains to regard the island as a refuge. Otherwise, it is populated by Gaelic farmers, fishermen, and the famous tailless manx cats. The varied landscape features austere moorlands and wooded glens, interspersed by fine castles, narrow-gauge railways, and scores of standing stones with Celtic crosses. The hilly terrain rises to a height of 2,036 feet at Mount Snaefell, which dominates the center of the island.

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From the Manx Grand Prix to the 14th century castle at Peel. From Rushen Abbey to the island’s own breed of cats and sheep. The Isle of Man stands on its own. Here you can enjoy one of our most exciting optional excursions – experience the motorcycle course that draws fans from all over the world on our own specially designed 3-seater Trike. And enjoy beautiful scenery of this UNESCO Biosphere Reserve while you ride.

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Dublin is a city of delights and surprises. Stroll across the Ha’Penny Bridge to Trinity College for a glimpse of the Book of Kells. Step inside the 11th century Dublin Castle. Stop by the Guinness Storehouse or Old Jameson Distillery for a taste of Irish history. And embrace the beauty of Dublin Bay, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve.

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Dublin is a city of delights and surprises. Stroll across the Ha’Penny Bridge to Trinity College for a glimpse of the Book of Kells. Step inside the 11th century Dublin Castle. Stop by the Guinness Storehouse or Old Jameson Distillery for a taste of Irish history. And embrace the beauty of Dublin Bay, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve.

Amsterdam combines the unrivaled beauty of the 17th-century Golden Age city center with plenty of museums and art of the highest order, not to mention a remarkably laid-back atmosphere. It all comes together to make this one of the world’s most appealing and offbeat metropolises in the world. Built on a latticework of concentric canals like an aquatic rainbow, Amsterdam is known as the City of Canals—but it’s no Venice, content to live on moonlight serenades and former glory. Quite the contrary: on nearly every street here you’ll find old and new side by side—quiet corners where time seems to be holding its breath next to streets like neon-lit Kalverstraat, and Red Light ladies strutting by the city’s oldest church. Indeed, Amsterdam has as many lovely facets as a 40-carat diamond polished by one of the city’s gem cutters. It’s certainly a metropolis, but a rather small and very accessible one. Locals tend to refer to it as a big village, albeit one that happens to pack the cultural wallop of a major world destination. There are scores of concerts every day, numerous museums, summertime festivals, and, of course, a legendary year-round party scene. It’s pretty much impossible to resist Amsterdam’s charms. With 7,000 registered monuments, most of which began as the residences and warehouses of humble merchants, set on 160 man-made canals, and traversed by 1,500 or so bridges, Amsterdam has the largest historical inner city in Europe. Its famous circle of waterways, the grachtengordel, was a 17th-century urban expansion plan for the rich and is a lasting testament to the city’s Golden Age. This town is endearing because of its kinder, gentler nature—but a reputation for championing sex, drugs, and rock ’n’ roll does not alone account for Amsterdam’s being one of the most popular destinations in Europe: consider that within a single square mile the city harbors some of the greatest achievements in Western art, from Rembrandt to Van Gogh. Not to mention that this is one of Europe’s great walking cities, with so many of its treasures in the untouted details: tiny alleyways barely visible on the map, hidden garden courtyards, shop windows, floating houseboats, hidden hofjes(courtyards with almshouses), sudden vistas of church spires, and gabled roofs that look like so many unframed paintings. And don’t forget that the joy lies in details: elaborate gables and witty gable stones denoting the trade of a previous owner. Keep in mind that those XXX symbols you see all over town are not a mark of the city’s triple-X reputation. They’re part of Amsterdam’s official coat of arms—three St. Andrew’s crosses, believed to represent the three dangers that have traditionally plagued the city: flood, fire, and pestilence. The coat’s motto (“Valiant, determined, compassionate”) was introduced in 1947 by Queen Wilhelmina in remembrance of the 1941 February Strike in Amsterdam—the first time in Europe that non-Jewish people protested against the persecution of Jews by the Nazi regime.

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Amsterdam, the Venice of the North, where more than 1,500 bridges arch gracefully over scenic canals. The stately 17th century homes of Dutch merchants line the canals and museums are everywhere, filled with masterpieces from the Dutch Golden Age. Most of the sightseeing essentials are conveniently collected in the Canal Ring, the central area of the city which is designated as a UNESCO site. Here you’ll find the Anne Frank House, the Royal Palace, the Red Light District, and most of the museums. Mind all the bicycles!

Amsterdam combines the unrivaled beauty of the 17th-century Golden Age city center with plenty of museums and art of the highest order, not to mention a remarkably laid-back atmosphere. It all comes together to make this one of the world’s most appealing and offbeat metropolises in the world. Built on a latticework of concentric canals like an aquatic rainbow, Amsterdam is known as the City of Canals—but it’s no Venice, content to live on moonlight serenades and former glory. Quite the contrary: on nearly every street here you’ll find old and new side by side—quiet corners where time seems to be holding its breath next to streets like neon-lit Kalverstraat, and Red Light ladies strutting by the city’s oldest church. Indeed, Amsterdam has as many lovely facets as a 40-carat diamond polished by one of the city’s gem cutters. It’s certainly a metropolis, but a rather small and very accessible one. Locals tend to refer to it as a big village, albeit one that happens to pack the cultural wallop of a major world destination. There are scores of concerts every day, numerous museums, summertime festivals, and, of course, a legendary year-round party scene. It’s pretty much impossible to resist Amsterdam’s charms. With 7,000 registered monuments, most of which began as the residences and warehouses of humble merchants, set on 160 man-made canals, and traversed by 1,500 or so bridges, Amsterdam has the largest historical inner city in Europe. Its famous circle of waterways, the grachtengordel, was a 17th-century urban expansion plan for the rich and is a lasting testament to the city’s Golden Age. This town is endearing because of its kinder, gentler nature—but a reputation for championing sex, drugs, and rock ’n’ roll does not alone account for Amsterdam’s being one of the most popular destinations in Europe: consider that within a single square mile the city harbors some of the greatest achievements in Western art, from Rembrandt to Van Gogh. Not to mention that this is one of Europe’s great walking cities, with so many of its treasures in the untouted details: tiny alleyways barely visible on the map, hidden garden courtyards, shop windows, floating houseboats, hidden hofjes(courtyards with almshouses), sudden vistas of church spires, and gabled roofs that look like so many unframed paintings. And don’t forget that the joy lies in details: elaborate gables and witty gable stones denoting the trade of a previous owner. Keep in mind that those XXX symbols you see all over town are not a mark of the city’s triple-X reputation. They’re part of Amsterdam’s official coat of arms—three St. Andrew’s crosses, believed to represent the three dangers that have traditionally plagued the city: flood, fire, and pestilence. The coat’s motto (“Valiant, determined, compassionate”) was introduced in 1947 by Queen Wilhelmina in remembrance of the 1941 February Strike in Amsterdam—the first time in Europe that non-Jewish people protested against the persecution of Jews by the Nazi regime.

Day itinerary:

Amsterdam, the Venice of the North, where more than 1,500 bridges arch gracefully over scenic canals. The stately 17th century homes of Dutch merchants line the canals and museums are everywhere, filled with masterpieces from the Dutch Golden Age. Most of the sightseeing essentials are conveniently collected in the Canal Ring, the central area of the city which is designated as a UNESCO site. Here you’ll find the Anne Frank House, the Royal Palace, the Red Light District, and most of the museums. Mind all the bicycles!

In 1895 work began to construct a new seaport and harbour next to the tiny village of Zeebrugge, situated on the North Sea coast. Today the fast-expanding port of Zeebrugge is one of the busiest in Europe and its marina is Belgium’s most important fishing port. Many attempts were made to destroy this important port during both World Wars. Zeebrugge is ideally located for discovering the historic city of Bruges, and delightful seaside resorts with long sandy beaches can be visited by using the trams that run the whole length of the Belgian coast. Please note that no food may be taken ashore in Belgium. We shall not be offering shuttle buses to Bruges, but you may visit the city on an optional excursion: those visiting Bruges should note that there may be quite a long walk from the coach to the town centre.

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The entire city center of Bruges has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, filled with Flemish and Renaissance architecture made all the more beautiful when reflected in the city’s many canals. Shop for legendary lace, or a pint of Belgian beer.

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Cruise this 483-mile (777 km)-long important commercial waterway within the Paris Basin. The River Seine flows right through the heart of Paris. There are 32 bridges spanning the river, with the oldest being Pont Neuf, completed in 1606. The riverbanks are full of interesting places, including floating restaurants and houseboats.

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This port city on the Seine River and gateway to Paris is full of beautiful architecture and is an art-lover’s delight. Museums are plentiful here including the Historial Jeanne d’Arc and the Musee des Beaux-Arts with the second-largest collection of Impressionist works in France. Stroll the many local markets full of fresh produce and flowers and dine at one of the incredible restaurants featuring fresh ingredients from this region.

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This port city on the Seine River and gateway to Paris is full of beautiful architecture and is an art-lover’s delight. Museums are plentiful here including the Historial Jeanne d’Arc and the Musee des Beaux-Arts with the second-largest collection of Impressionist works in France. Stroll the many local markets full of fresh produce and flowers and dine at one of the incredible restaurants featuring fresh ingredients from this region.

Le Havre, founded by King Francis I of France in 1517, is located inUpper Normandy on the north bank of the mouth of the River Seine, which isconsidered the most frequented waterway in the world. Its port is ranked thesecond largest in France. The city was originally built on marshland andmudflats that were drained in the 1500’s. During WWII most of Le Havre wasdestroyed by Allied bombing raids. Post war rebuilding of the city followed thedevelopment plans of the well-known Belgian architect Auguste Perre. Thereconstruction was so unique that the entire city was listed as a UNESCO WorldHeritage Site in 2005. 

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Le Havre is a major port in northern France where the Seine River meets the English Channel. A UNESCO Site, Le Havre was almost completely destroyed during WWII and completely and thoughtfully rebuilt with modernist vision. It is the gateway to Normandy – including the medieval city of Rouen, the picturesque port of Honfleur and romantic Paris only 110 miles away.

Thrust out into the sea and bound to the mainland only by tenuous man-made causeways, romantic St-Malo has built a reputation as a breeding ground for phenomenal sailors. Many were fishermen, but others—most notably Jacques Cartier, who claimed Canada for Francis I in 1534—were New World explorers. Still others were corsairs, “sea dogs” paid by the French crown to harass the Limeys across the Channel: legendary ones like Robert Surcouf and Duguay-Trouin helped make St-Malo rich through their pillaging, in the process earning it the nickname “the pirates’ city.” The St-Malo you see today isn’t quite the one they called home because a weeklong fire in 1944, kindled by retreating Nazis, wiped out nearly all of the old buildings. Restoration work was more painstaking than brilliant, but the narrow streets and granite houses of the Vieille Ville were satisfactorily recreated, enabling St-Malo to regain its role as a busy fishing port, seaside resort, and tourist destination. The ramparts that help define this city figuratively and literally are authentic, and the flames also spared houses along Rue de Pelicot in the Vieille Ville. Battalions of tourists invade this quaint part of town in summer, so arrive off-season if you want to avoid crowds.

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Once notorious as the home of pirates, St.-Malo today is better known for the UNESCO site monastery and town of Mont St. Michel and the famous oysters of nearby Cancale. Walk the city’s ramparts, or pass the time at a seaside boulangerie sampling a fresh and buttery croissant.

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La Rochelle is said to be the most lovely and unspoiled port city in France, and who are we to argue? Two 14th century stone towers guard the gateway to the medieval core of the city, the Vieux Port. And this is a city that is focused on ships. You’ll find yachts floating in the Port des Minimes, ships in the stained glass of church windows, maybe even decorating the arcaded walkways that line the streets. Learn the art of brandy making with a visit to the Cognac region and the Hennessy maisson, dating back to 1765. While walking past the aging barrels, inhale the heady aroma—the escaping vapors known as “the angels’ share.”

Bordeaux as a whole, rather than any particular points within it, is what you’ll want to visit in order to understand why Victor Hugo described it as Versailles plus Antwerp, and why the painter Francisco de Goya, when exiled from his native Spain, chose it as his last home (he died here in 1828). The capital of southwest France and the region’s largest city, Bordeaux remains synonymous with the wine trade: wine shippers have long maintained their headquarters along the banks of the Garonne, while buyers from around the world arrive for the huge biennial Vinexpo show (held in odd-number years).Bordeaux is, admittedly, a less exuberant city than many others in France, but lively and stylish elements are making a dent in its conservative veneer. The cleaned-up riverfront is said by some, after a bottle or two, to exude an elegance reminiscent of St. Petersburg, and that aura of 18th-century élan also permeates the historic downtown sector—“le vieux Bordeaux”—where fine shops invite exploration. To the south of the city center are old docklands undergoing renewal—one train station has now been transformed into a big multiplex movie theater—but the area is still a bit shady. To get a feel for the historic port of Bordeaux, take the 90-minute boat trip that leaves Quai Louis-XVIII every weekday afternoon, or the regular passenger ferry that plies the Garonne between Quai Richelieu and the Pont d’Aquitaine in summer. A nice time to stroll around the city center is the first Sunday of the month, when it’s pedestrian-only and vehicles are banned.

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Bordeaux has long been known as La Belle au Bois Dormant, Sleeping Beauty. And while the beauty part is undeniable, the sleeping part could be argued. Sure, the region is filled with treasures from long ago, including more than 350 historic monuments and buildings in the city alone. But the capital of Aquitaine is also home to a vibrant culture and, as oenophiles well know, is the gateway to some of France’s most famous vineyards. In this UNESCO World Heritage city, 13th century cathedrals and 18th century palaces are commonplace. Venture beyond the city’s borders to the chateaux of the Médoc region or to Saint-Émilion, a breathtaking medieval village set among the vineyards that is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Bordeaux as a whole, rather than any particular points within it, is what you’ll want to visit in order to understand why Victor Hugo described it as Versailles plus Antwerp, and why the painter Francisco de Goya, when exiled from his native Spain, chose it as his last home (he died here in 1828). The capital of southwest France and the region’s largest city, Bordeaux remains synonymous with the wine trade: wine shippers have long maintained their headquarters along the banks of the Garonne, while buyers from around the world arrive for the huge biennial Vinexpo show (held in odd-number years).Bordeaux is, admittedly, a less exuberant city than many others in France, but lively and stylish elements are making a dent in its conservative veneer. The cleaned-up riverfront is said by some, after a bottle or two, to exude an elegance reminiscent of St. Petersburg, and that aura of 18th-century élan also permeates the historic downtown sector—“le vieux Bordeaux”—where fine shops invite exploration. To the south of the city center are old docklands undergoing renewal—one train station has now been transformed into a big multiplex movie theater—but the area is still a bit shady. To get a feel for the historic port of Bordeaux, take the 90-minute boat trip that leaves Quai Louis-XVIII every weekday afternoon, or the regular passenger ferry that plies the Garonne between Quai Richelieu and the Pont d’Aquitaine in summer. A nice time to stroll around the city center is the first Sunday of the month, when it’s pedestrian-only and vehicles are banned.

Day itinerary:

Bordeaux has long been known as La Belle au Bois Dormant, Sleeping Beauty. And while the beauty part is undeniable, the sleeping part could be argued. Sure, the region is filled with treasures from long ago, including more than 350 historic monuments and buildings in the city alone. But the capital of Aquitaine is also home to a vibrant culture and, as oenophiles well know, is the gateway to some of France’s most famous vineyards. In this UNESCO World Heritage city, 13th century cathedrals and 18th century palaces are commonplace. Venture beyond the city’s borders to the chateaux of the Médoc region or to Saint-Émilion, a breathtaking medieval village set among the vineyards that is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.