Circumnavigating Ireland

Before English and Scottish settlers arrived in the 1600s, Belfast was a tiny village called Béal Feirste (“sandbank ford”) belonging to Ulster’s ancient O’Neill clan. With the advent of the Plantation period (when settlers arrived in the 1600s), Sir Arthur Chichester, from Devon in southwestern England, received the city from the English Crown, and his son was made Earl of Donegall. Huguenots fleeing persecution from France settled near here, bringing their valuable linen-work skills. In the 18th century, Belfast underwent a phenomenal expansion—its population doubled every 10 years, despite an ever-present sectarian divide. Although the Anglican gentry despised the Presbyterian artisans—who, in turn, distrusted the native Catholics—Belfast’s growth continued at a dizzying speed. The city was a great Victorian success story, an industrial boomtown whose prosperity was built on trade, especially linen and shipbuilding. Famously (or infamously), the Titanic was built here, giving Belfast, for a time, the nickname “Titanic Town.” Having laid the foundation stone of the city’s university in 1845, Queen Victoria returned to Belfast in 1849 (she is recalled in the names of buildings, streets, bars, monuments, and other places around the city), and in the same year, the university opened under the name Queen’s College. Nearly 40 years later, in 1888, Victoria granted Belfast its city charter. Today its population is nearly 300,000, tourist numbers have increased, and this dramatically transformed city is enjoying an unparalleled renaissance.This is all a welcome change from the period when news about Belfast meant reports about “the Troubles.” Since the 1994 ceasefire, Northern Ireland’s capital city has benefited from major hotel investment, gentrified quaysides (or strands), a sophisticated new performing arts center, and major initiatives to boost tourism. Although the 1996 bombing of offices at Canary Wharf in London disrupted the 1994 peace agreement, the ceasefire was officially reestablished on July 20, 1997, and this embattled city began its quest for a newfound identity.Since 2008, the city has restored all its major public buildings such as museums, churches, theaters, City Hall, Ulster Hall—and even the glorious Crown Bar—spending millions of pounds on its built heritage. A gaol that at the height of the Troubles held some of the most notorious murderers involved in paramilitary violence is now a major visitor attraction.Belfast’s city center is made up of three roughly contiguous areas that are easy to navigate on foot. From the south end to the north, it’s about an hour’s leisurely walk.

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Probably best known as the birthplace of the Titanic, Belfast was a hub for not only shipbuilding but also tobacco processing, rope-making and Irish linen in the early 20th century. Today the old shipyards are giving way to luxury apartments in what is known as the Titanic Quarter, home to the Titanic Belfast Centre, a beautiful star-shaped building covering the Titanic’s construction. Other must-sees include the Ulster Folk Museum and the Belfast Cathedral, as well as numerous award-winning restaurants and bars.

Nestled behind lofty city walls, Londonderry is a destination of culture, which boasts an increasingly envied reputation. This Northern Irish city is still riding on the momentum of a fantastic 2013, when it was named as UK City of Culture, and singled out as one of Lonely Planet’s top 5 destinations to visit. The wonderfully preserved city walls are perhaps Londonderry’s most treasured charm, and they encircle 1,450 years of history, and are over 400 years old. The walls came to the fore of the city’s history during the Siege of Derry, back in 1688 – when King James’s forces attacked, causing mass starvation and suffering over 105 days of stalemate. It takes approximately an hour to wander the entire circuit of the walls, and see their seven gates, and you’ll absorb a feast of information along the way. View the mighty cannons that boomed during the siege, or stop into one of the plentiful cafes, should you need a little refreshment before continuing your journey. St. Columb’s Cathedral, which dates back to 1633, towers over the walled city, and is one of the city’s most significant historic sites. Its dreamy spire contains a set of bells that have peeled out melodies here since 1638, making them Ireland’s oldest.

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Located on the River Foyle, Londonderry is known for its intact 17th century Derry’s Walls with 7 gates that surrounds St. Columb’s Cathedral with artifacts dating from 1688. The landmark Peace Bridge spans the river and the Tower Museum has local history exhibits.

Killybegs The days start early in Killybegs, as this quiet fishing town rumbles to life, and ships with red and blue paint peeling from their hulls quietly depart, ready for a morning’s hard work at sea. Located in a scenic part of County Donegal, Killybegs is Ireland’s fishing capital, and the salty breeze and pretty streets serve as a revitalising medicine for visitors. The town is also your gateway to some of the country’s most majestic coastal scenery, which is dotted with flashing white lighthouses, keeping watch over invigorating seascapes. Killybegs enjoys a privileged position on the coast of north west of Ireland, close to the spectacular Slieve League – a titanic mountain, which explodes upwards from frothing ocean. Walk as close as you dare to the coastline’s sheer drops, or admire the folding cliffs from the best vantage point, down on the water.

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Friendly Killybegs is the largest fishing port in County Donegal located at the head of a scenic harbor with mountains as a backdrop. It is famous for its tapestries and carpets and sites to see here include Killybegs International Carpet Making, Cyndi Graham Handweaving, Glencolmcille Folk Village and expansive white-sand Fintragh Blue Flag Beach.

Galway is a city in the West of Ireland in the province of Connacht. It lies on the River Corrib between Lough Corrib and Galway Bay and is surrounded by County Galway. It is the fourth most populous urban area in the Republic of Ireland and the sixth most populous city in the island of Ireland. It is both a picturesque and lively city with a wonderful avant-garde culture and a fascinating mixture of locally owned speciality shops, often featuring locally made crafts. Indeed local handcrafts are a feature of the entire region including hand knits, pottery, glass, jewellery and woodwork. The city’s hub is 18th-century Eyre Square, a popular meeting spot surrounded by shops, and traditional pubs that often offer live Irish folk music. Nearby, stone-clad cafes, boutiques and art galleries line the winding lanes of the Latin Quarter, which retains portions of the medieval city walls. The city bears the nickname “The City of the Tribes” because “fourteen tribes” of merchant families led the city in its Hiberno-Norman period. The merchants would have seen themselves as Irish gentry and loyal to the King. They later adopted the term as a badge of honour and pride in defiance of the town’s Cromwellian occupier.

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Galway’s popularity is its food scene that boasts the very best local ingredients and innovative techniques even with traditional favorites like fish and chips. It has one of the liveliest pub scenes including Galway craft beer. Check out the weekend market set in the shadow of St. Nicholas’ Medieval Church.

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SCENIC CRUISING CLIFFS OF MOHER

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Located on Ireland’s stunning west coast, Dingle enchants with its breathtaking landscapes, rolling hills, and quiet sea shores. The town’s colorful buildings frame bustling streets brimming with traditional pubs and artisanal shops. Surrounded by the wild beauty of the Dingle Peninsula, visitors can explore ancient ruins, golden beaches, and dramatic cliffs.

Cork City’s nearby harbor district has seen plenty of history. Cork Harbour’s draws include Fota Island—with an arboretum, a wildlife park, and the Fota House ancestral estate—and the fishing port of Cobh.

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Home to Ireland’s only dedicated cruise terminal, Cobh (pronounced Cove) is a charming seaport that was the exit port for 3 million immigrants between 1848 and 1950. Visit the famous St. Colman’s Cathedral with its 49-bell carillon and Fota Wildlife Park where wallabys roam free. Cork, just inland from here, is a university city with a unique 1824 castle-style Gaol which once held prisoners bound for Australia. The hilltop steeple of 18th century Church of Saint Anne is the landmark of the city.

The largest town in the Southeast and Ireland’s oldest city, Waterford was founded by the Vikings in the 9th century and was taken over by Strongbow, the Norman invader, with much bloodshed in 1170. The city resisted Cromwell’s 1649 attacks, but fell the following year. It did not prosper again until 1783, when George and William Penrose set out to create “plain and cut flint glass, useful and ornamental,” and thereby set in motion a glass-manufacturing industry long without equal. The famed glassworks closed after the 2008 financial crisis, but Waterford Crystal has triumphantly risen again from the flames in a smaller, leaner version, opened in 2010 and now relocated to the Mall.

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Explore Ireland’s oldest city from the Viking Triangle, surrounded by 10th century fortifications, to the sparkling House of Waterford Crystal, home to the largest collection of the landmark cut crystal in the world. Take time to raise a glass at T&H Doolans’ Pub, where visitors have been heartily welcomed for more than 300 years.

Dublin is making a comeback. The decade-long “Celtic Tiger” boom era was quickly followed by the Great Recession, but The Recovery has finally taken a precarious hold. For visitors, this newer and wiser Dublin has become one of western Europe’s most popular and delightful urban destinations. Whether or not you’re out to enjoy the old or new Dublin, you’ll find it a colossally entertaining city, all the more astonishing considering its intimate size.It is ironic and telling that James Joyce chose Dublin as the setting for his famous Ulysses, Dubliners, and A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man because it was a “center of paralysis” where nothing much ever changed. Which only proves that even the greats get it wrong sometimes. Indeed, if Joyce were to return to his once-genteel hometown today—disappointed with the city’s provincial outlook, he left it in 1902 at the age of 20—and take a quasi-Homeric odyssey through the city (as he so famously does in Ulysses), would he even recognize Dublin as his “Dear Dirty Dumpling, foostherfather of fingalls and dotthergills”?For instance, what would he make of Temple Bar—the city’s erstwhile down-at-the-heels neighborhood, now crammed with cafés and trendy hotels and suffused with a nonstop, international-party atmosphere? Or the simple sophistication of the open-air restaurants of the tiny Italian Quarter (named Quartier Bloom after his own creation), complete with sultry tango lessons? Or of the hot–cool Irishness, where every aspect of Celtic culture results in sold-out theaters, from Once, the cult indie movie and Broadway hit, to Riverdance, the old Irish mass-jig recast as a Las Vegas extravaganza? Plus, the resurrected Joyce might be stirred by the songs of Hozier, fired up by the sultry acting of Michael Fassbender, and moved by the award-winning novels of Colum McCann. As for Ireland’s capital, it’s packed with elegant shops and hotels, theaters, galleries, coffeehouses, and a stunning variety of new, creative little restaurants can be found on almost every street in Dublin, transforming the provincial city that suffocated Joyce into a place almost as cosmopolitan as the Paris to which he fled. And the locals are a hell of a lot more fun! Now that the economy has finally turned a corner, Dublin citizens can cast a cool eye over the last 20 crazy years. Some argue that the boomtown transformation of their heretofore-tranquil city has permanently affected its spirit and character. These skeptics (skepticism long being a favorite pastime in the capital city) await the outcome of “Dublin: The Sequel,” and their greatest fear is the possibility that the tattered old lady on the Liffey has become a little less unique, a little more like everywhere else.Oh ye of little faith: the rare ole gem that is Dublin is far from buried. The fundamentals—the Georgian elegance of Merrion Square, the Norman drama of Christ Church Cathedral, the foamy pint at an atmospheric pub—are still on hand to gratify. Most of all, there are the locals themselves: the nod and grin when you catch their eye on the street, the eagerness to hear half your life story before they tell you all of theirs, and their paradoxically dark but warm sense of humor. It’s expected that 2016 will be an extra-special year in the capital, as centenary celebrations of the fateful 1916 Easter Rising will dominate much of the cultural calendar.

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DUBLIN / DUBLIN, Ireland