Dawn – 20261101 – 7 days

If you look north of the cathedral (La Seu, or the seat of the bishopric, to Mallorcans) on a map of the city of Palma, you can see around the Plaça Santa Eulàlia a jumble of tiny streets that made up the earliest settlement. Farther out, a ring of wide boulevards traces the fortifications built by the Moors to defend the larger city that emerged by the 12th century. The zigzags mark the bastions that jutted out at regular intervals. By the end of the 19th century, most of the walls had been demolished; the only place where you can still see the massive defenses is at Ses Voltes, along the seafront west of the cathedral.A torrent (streambed) used to run through the middle of the old city, dry for most of the year but often a raging flood in the rainy season. In the 17th century it was diverted to the east, along the moat that ran outside the city walls. Two of Palma’s main arteries, La Rambla and the Passeig d’es Born, now follow the stream’s natural course. The traditional evening paseo (promenade) takes place on the Born.If you come to Palma by car, park in the garage beneath the Parc de la Mar (the ramp is just off the highway from the airport, as you reach the cathedral) and stroll along the park. Beside it run the huge bastions guarding the Almudaina Palace; the cathedral, golden and massive, rises beyond. Where you exit the garage, there’s a ceramic mural by the late Catalan artist and Mallorca resident Joan Miró, facing the cathedral across the pool that runs the length of the park.If you begin early enough, a walk along the ramparts at Ses Voltes from the mirador beside the cathedral is spectacular. The first rays of the sun turn the upper pinnacles of La Seu bright gold and then begin to work their way down the sandstone walls. From the Parc de la Mar, follow Avinguda Antoni Maura past the steps to the palace. Just below the Plaça de la Reina, where the Passeig d’es Born begins, turn left on Carrer de la Boteria into the Plaça de la Llotja (if the Llotja itself is open, don’t miss a chance to visit—it’s the Mediterranean’s finest Gothic-style civic building). From there stroll through the Plaça Drassana to the Museu d’Es Baluard, at the end of Carrer Sant Pere. Retrace your steps to Avinguda Antoni Maura. Walk up the Passeig d’es Born to Plaça Joan Carles I, then right on Avenida de La Unió.

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A rugged Mediterranean gem, arising out of the rich blue haze, Mallorca is a Spanish island of cuisine, culture, and sun-gorged beaches. Palma de Mallorca is the island’s dominating capital, and a sand-coloured mirage of glorious buildings and living history. Conquered and liberated countless times over the years, since its Bronze Age founding, the city is your gateway to ceaseless Mediterranean beauty, buzzy markets, and intense flavours. Cafes and bars wait close to the sweeping coastline, where you can enjoy strong espressos to kick start the day, or splashes of red Majorcan wines to round it off. Bicycles trundle up and down the promenade, which invites you to wander in the morning sunshine beside the waves. Dominated by the indefatigable form of Santa María cathedral, which looms over the city and coastline, Palma de Mallorca is drenched in history and culture. The labyrinth of the old town is a cobbled haven, which bustles with dripping ice creams and sun-lashed squares. Settle to try the island’s superb cuisine, and savour local ingredients with an exceptional depth of flavour. Something about the sunshine here makes tomatoes extra sharp and delicious, while the seafood is consistently juicy and plump. The creation of the mighty cathedral, Le Seu, began in 1229 and was eventually concluded in 1601. A perfect encapsulation of Palma de Mallorca’s blend of the historic and the contemporary, even Gaudi lent his hand to it, and the interior features a spectacular modernist take on the New Testament from artist Miquel Barcelo, which is painted across the chapel’s walls. The splendid Royal Palace of La Almudaina fortress stands nearby, a left-behind Moorish footprint of square towers and Arabic archways that now serves as an official summer residence for the King of Spain.

Known in Sardinia as Casteddu, the island’s capital has steep streets and impressive Italianate architecture, from modern to medieval. This city of nearly 160,000 people is characterized by a busy commercial center and waterfront with broad avenues and arched arcades, as well as by the typically narrow streets of the old hilltop citadel (called, simply, “Castello”). The Museo Archeologico makes a good starting point to a visit. The imposing Bastione di Saint Remy and Mercato di San Benedetto (one of the best fish markets in Italy) are both musts.

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The serene sea approach to Cagliari is an exquisitely beautiful way to first lay eyes on the city’s mesmerising interplay of colour, spires and domed churches. Sat on Sardinia’s south coast, Cagliari is the island’s largest city, and a sun-blessed escape of beaches, architecture and Mediterranean food – where stress evaporates on contact. That first sight of Cagliari’s mosaic of architecture reveals much about the island’s history, and is a living document of the civilisations and influences that have passed through. Combining Byzantine churches with crumbling Roman ruins and Pisan towers, it’s an elegant, beguiling place to explore. Usher in the morning with a short, sharp espresso hit, before wandering along to San Benedetto market’s bustle, crammed full of overflowing heaps of local produce. Taste crisp, freshly-baked bread, thin shavings of sheep’s cheese, and ripe red strawberries, as you wander amid the market’s melody of good-natured bartering. The Castello quarter’s tight, flower-draped streets and salmon-hued brick buildings incline up above the Med’s softly lapping waves. Climb Bastione di Saint Remy staircase to Terrazza Umberto’s views of the turquoise Gulf of Angels. Next, Cathedral of Santa Maria awaits, with its marbled interiors, elaborate side chapels and intricately decorated crypt. Once you’ve unravelled Cagliari’s historical tapestry, Poetto Beach invites you to find a spot on almost five miles of uninterrupted sand, met by a dazzling expanse of turquoise water. 

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Tunisia’s capital lies at the western end of the shallow Lake Tunis which opens to the sea at La Goulette. This is the first of a string of beach suburbs that stretches away to the north it is here that the city’s port is located. This coastal area includes the ruins of ancient Carthage and the picturesque suburb of Sidi Bou Said places that attract more visitors than Tunis itself. As far as capital cities go Tunis has an easy-going unhurried air about it. It is a very liberal city by Islamic standards and certainly leading the way in Western trends for the rest of the country. In Tunisia the struggle for independence didn’t take the violent course that it did in Algeria. Ruler Ahmed Bey who governed from 1837 to 1855 encouraged Westernization and brought in military and other advisors to this end. In 1861 during the reign of Mohammed Sadiq a constitution – the first in the Arab world – was proclaimed. Until the time of the French protectorate the medina was very much the center of things. Then under the French influence the ville nouvelle (new city) emerged with its major banks department stores and administrative services. The main focus of ville nouvelle is the wide tree-lined Avenue Habib Bourguiba. At its western end this major thoroughfare becomes the Avenue de France terminating in the Place de la Victoire and the entrance to the medina.

Trapani, the most important town on Sicily’s west coast, lies below the headland of Mount Erice and offers stunning views of the Egadi Islands on a clear day. Trapani’s Old District occupies a scimitarshaped promontory between the open sea on the north and the salt marshes to the south. The ancient industry of extracting salt from the marshes has recently been revived, and it is documented in the Museo delle Saline. In addition to the salt marshes,Trapani’s other interesting environs include the beautiful little hill town of Erice, the promontory of Capo San Vito stretching north beyond the splendid headland of Monte Cofano, the lovely island of Motya and the town of Marsala. Trips farther afield will take you to the magnificent site of Segesta or the Egadi Islands, reached by boat or hydrofoil from Trapani Port.

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Surrounded by glowing turquoise waters and rugged coastline Trapani invites you to explore western Sicily’s ruins intense flavours and sun-soaked leisure pursuits. Built on salt and tuna exports Trapani is experiencing a renaissance having been lovingly spruced up as a sailing capital and an international airport bringing in visitors from far and wide. The town looks out over the Egadi Islands gazing west to witness some of Siciliy’s most evocative sunset displays. Start exploring Trapani from its historic core a dense network of alleys hosting a collection of small shops restaurants and wine bars. You’ll encounter the Cathedral of San Lorenzo – where colourful artworks are spread below sweeping arches and a beautiful domed roof. Sicily feels like an island on the cusp of continents and Trapani practically has one foot in Africa as you soak in its pretty whitewash houses and fusion of foods and arts. Discover the Ancient Greek influence by venturing to rich archaeological sites nearby like Selinus and Segesta where the treasures from the past have been unearthed and displayed. Pyramids of white salt rise up at the Riserva Naturale Saline di Trapani e Paceco. These salt marshes and windmills are a symbol of Trapani and although sea salt production is much less important today the small white hills remain a Trapani landmark. Look out for the pink flamingos wading in the salt pans below. For beach days the Egadi Islands can be easily reached from Trapani – Favignana is the largest and most popular.

Naples, in the Campania region, is Italy’s third largest city. Its claim to fame is the spectacular location along one of the world’s most splendid bays, backed by the perfect cone of Mount Vesuvius. In addition to its beautiful setting, Naples’ surprises with other outstanding attractions such as the Royal Palace, San Carlos Opera House, the impressive National Archaeological Museum and the Castel Nuovo, dating from the 13th-century. The city’s central area is best explored on foot. Chaotic traffic conditions make driving around the city a very frustrating experience. Naples provides a convenient starting point for trips to such favored destinations as Pompeii, Herculaneum and Mount Vesuvius. The Isle of Capri can be reached via a 45-minute hydrofoil service. The region of Campania was home to Greeks settlers some 300 years before Rome was founded. Pompeii, too, was a Greek town before being conquered by the Romans during the 5th century BC. It was under the Romans that Pompeii flourished and grew prosperous. When Mount Vesuvius erupted in 79 AD, the population of 20,000 was wiped out, but dozens of buildings were preserved under layers of cinder more than 20 feet deep. The most important finds from Pompeii are displayed in Naples’ National Archaeological Museum. A visit here will no doubt enhance a visit to ancient Pompeii.

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Raw, unvarnished and refreshingly authentic, Naples is Italy’s third-largest city and a place like nowhere else. They say ‘see Naples and die,’ and you’ll soon discover the unique energy and exuberance of this sprawling city, which balances urban grit and timeless wonder like no other. Set on the breathtaking Bay of Naples, with the looming cone of Mount Vesuvius puncturing the blue sky close by, it can take a little time for Naples to work its way under your skin – but once you attune to its rhythms, you’ll be hopelessly under its spell. Naples’ densely packed, towering streets lend a claustrophobic, canyon-like feel to the UNESCO World Heritage Site city centre. Here, overflowing market stalls sell handcrafted goods along tight alleyways, and hidden courtyards serve up glasses of glowing Aperol Spritz. The smell of freshly-baked focaccias and drying washing hang over the thoroughly lived-in streets, while stunning baroque churches rise out of nowhere. Wherever you wander, this is a city sprinkled with immense cultural treasures and artistry – from palaces to fortresses and ruins from antiquity. Unpretentious food, made from simple, flavourful ingredients is a feature of Naples’ revered cuisine, and the birthplace of pizza is the perfect city to taste fire-baked, shockingly under-priced, margherita. Wash it down with a bottle of wine perfected by the fertile slopes of Vesuvius. A sharp espresso is always welcome to punctuate your time exploring. Mount Vesuvius’s destructive impulses destroyed and conserved the ancient city of Pompeii in the blink of an eye, and the town is one of the best-preserved Roman ruins in the world. Naples’ National Archaeological Museum displays many magnificent finds should you wish to stay in the city. The Amalfi coast’s immeasurable beauty also stretches out close by, while Capri’s glorious island glamorously luxuriates just offshore.

Italy’s vibrant capital lives in the present, but no other city on earth evokes its past so powerfully. For over 2,500 years, emperors, popes, artists, and common citizens have left their mark here. Archaeological remains from ancient Rome, art-stuffed churches, and the treasures of Vatican City vie for your attention, but Rome is also a wonderful place to practice the Italian-perfected il dolce far niente, the sweet art of idleness. Your most memorable experiences may include sitting at a caffè in the Campo de’ Fiori or strolling in a beguiling piazza.

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All roads lead to Rome, and with good reason – this city is one of the world’s most thrilling, offering unmatched history along every street. An evocative, inspiring and utterly artistic capital of unrivalled cultural impact, Rome is a city of back-to-back landmarks, which will take you on an exhilarating journey through the ages. This may be one of the world’s oldest cities, but it’s well and truly lived in. The ruins are punctuated with murmuring cafes, and the outdoor seating of restaurants sprawls out across piazzas, enticing you to sample tangles of creamy pasta and crispy pizzas. Rome’s incredible Roman Forum is littered with the ruins of its ancient administrations, which have stood firm for 2,000 years, since the times when the area was the centre of the Western world. Few sites are more simultaneously beautiful and haunting than that of the storied Colosseum, which looms deep into Rome’s rich blue sky. Take a tour to learn details of the grisly goings-on within. The best way to experience Rome is to wander its streets, gelato in hand. There is a lot to see here – whether it’s the domed spectacle of the Pantheon, or the elaborate flowing waters and artistry of the Trevi Fountain. Vatican City is an astonishing, colossal display of Catholic grandeur, while the Spanish Steps – crowned by the Trinità dei Monti church – offer a beautiful spot to gather and soak up the lively atmosphere of this humming city. With so much on the to-do list, you’ll relish the breaks you take, enjoying simple pleasures like a strong espresso, or fresh pasta with tomato sauce and ripped basil.