Athens to Athens

Undoubtedly the most extraordinary island in the Aegean, crescent-shape Santorini remains a mandatory stop on the Cycladic tourist route—even if it’s necessary to enjoy the sensational sunsets from Ia, the fascinating excavations, and the dazzling white towns with a million other travelers. Called Kállisti (the “Loveliest”) when first settled, the island has now reverted to its subsequent name of Thira, after the 9th-century-BC Dorian colonizer Thiras. The place is better known, however, these days as Santorini, a name derived from its patroness, St. Irene of Thessaloniki, the Byzantine empress who restored icons to Orthodoxy and died in 802. You can fly conveniently to Santorini, but to enjoy a true Santorini rite of passage, opt instead for the boat trip here, which provides a spectacular introduction. After the boat sails between Sikinos and Ios, your deck-side perch approaches two close islands with a passage between them. The bigger one on the left is Santorini, and the smaller on the right is Thirassia. Passing between them, you see the village of Ia adorning Santorini’s northernmost cliff like a white geometric beehive. You are in the caldera (volcanic crater), one of the world’s truly breathtaking sights: a demilune of cliffs rising 1,100 feet, with the white clusters of the towns of Fira and Ia perched along the top. The bay, once the high center of the island, is 1,300 feet in some places, so deep that when boats dock in Santorini’s shabby little port of Athinios, they do not drop anchor. The encircling cliffs are the ancient rim of a still-active volcano, and you are sailing east across its flooded caldera. On your right are the Burnt isles, the White isle, and other volcanic remnants, all lined up as if some outsize display in a geology museum. Hephaestus’s subterranean fires smolder still—the volcano erupted in 198 BC, about 735, and there was an earthquake in 1956. Indeed, Santorini and its four neighboring islets are the fragmentary remains of a larger landmass that exploded about 1600 BC: the volcano’s core blew sky high, and the sea rushed into the abyss to create the great bay, which measures 10 km by 7 km (6 mi by 4½ mi) and is 1,292 feet deep. The other pieces of the rim, which broke off in later eruptions, are Thirassia, where a few hundred people live, and deserted little Aspronissi (“White isle”). In the center of the bay, black and uninhabited, two cones, the Burnt Isles of Palea Kameni and Nea Kameni, appeared between 1573 and 1925. There has been too much speculation about the identification of Santorini with the mythical Atlantis, mentioned in Egyptian papyri and by Plato (who says it’s in the Atlantic), but myths are hard to pin down. This is not true of old arguments about whether tidal waves from Santorini’s cataclysmic explosion destroyed Minoan civilization on Crete, 113 km (70 mi) away. The latest carbon-dating evidence, which points to a few years before 1600 BC for the eruption, clearly indicates that the Minoans outlasted the eruption by a couple of hundred years, but most probably in a weakened state. In fact, the island still endures hardships: since antiquity, Santorini has depended on rain collected in cisterns for drinking and irrigating—the well water is often brackish—and the serious shortage is alleviated by the importation of water. However, the volcanic soil also yields riches: small, intense tomatoes with tough skins used for tomato paste (good restaurants here serve them); the famous Santorini fava beans, which have a light, fresh taste; barley; wheat; and white-skin eggplants.

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Breathlessly romantic and incredibly scenic the azure domes and whitewash buildings that cascade down Santorini’s slopes are prime honeymoon material – and relentlessly romantic. A true gem of the Cycladic island group Santorini is startlingly pretty and its white windmills and dazzling villages are incredibly easy on the eye. Envy-inducing and evocatively beautiful Santorini’s sunsets are legendary and the island is a highlight of any voyage to the Greek islands. Look out over the endless expanse of blue waves filling the massive volcanic caldera of Santorini – and absorb one of the most spectacular views in the world. The sheer rock shoulders of the caldera create an immense natural amphitheatre – so enjoy the show as you sip a local volcanic-mineral enhanced white wine and fall in love all over again. Any meal is well rounded off with the famous wine Vinsanto. The east side of the island may lack the incredible panoramas but it’s ideal if all you want to do is recline on volcanic-sand beaches – which range in hues from charcoal-black to flame-red. This beautiful island was forged by powerful volcanic activity and you can learn more about the huge eruption of 1 600 BCE – which wiped out the Minoan city at Akrotiri. The eruption sank the centre of the island forming the moon-shaped topography we see now. Visit the archaeological site that has revealed and preserved the village which was lost to time below the pumice and ash. Some whisper that this destroyed town may even be the fabled Atlantis.

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Spread out between two crescent bays, Bodrum exudes an “artsy” ambiance. With its gleaming white houses and colorful flower gardens it is one of the prettiest resorts on the South Aegean coast. Recently, it has become very popular with the jet set crowd, while at the same time maintaining an intimate air; there are strict zoning laws preventing over development. Bodrum’s main draws are pristine beaches, a busy yachting center and historic sites – a great combination to attract those sailing the Aegean Sea. Bodrum was known in antiquity as the site of Halicarnassus, a city whose origin dates back as far as 1000 BC. It was known for its splendid mausoleum, an enormous white marble tomb that King Mausolus had planned for himself. It was one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Although the structure was obliterated by the ravages of time, archaeologists have arranged models and drawings at the site to provide an idea of what the mausoleum looked like. Bodrum was also the birthplace of Herodotus, who wrote the first comprehensive world history. Today’s major cultural attraction is the massive Castle of St. Peter.

For better or worse, it can be difficult to reach Patmos—for many travelers, this lack of access is definitely for the better, since the island retains the air of an unspoiled retreat. Rocky and barren, the small, 34-square-km (21-square-mi) island lies beyond the islands of Kalymnos and Leros, northwest of Kos. Here on a hillside is the Monastery of the Apocalypse, which enshrines the cave where St. John received the Revelation in AD 95. Scattered evidence of Mycenaean presence remains on Patmos, and walls of the classical period indicate the existence of a town near Skala. Most of the island’s approximately 2,800 people live in three villages: Skala, medieval Chora, and the small rural settlement of Kambos. The island is popular among the faithful making pilgrimages to the monastery as well as with vacationing Athenians and a newly growing community of international trendsetters—designers, artists, poets, and “taste gurus” (to quote Vogue’s July 2011 write-up of the island)—who have bought homes in Chora. These stylemeisters followed in the footsteps of Alexandrian John Stefanidis and the English artist Teddy Millington-Drake who, in the early ’60s, set about creating what eventually became hailed as one of the most gorgeous island homes in the world. The word soon spread thanks to their many guests (who included Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis) but, happily, administrators have carefully contained development, and as a result, Patmos retains its charm and natural beauty—even in the busy month of August.

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The seahorse-shaped Patmos is a Greek island of stunning seascapes and immense cultural significance. Whether you’re religious or not there is something of the divine in this gorgeous island – a place of sanctuary fringed by crystal-clear waters and blissful beaches. Sleepy whitewash towns gleam in the strong sunshine while cats slink between the crumbling walls of this ruggedly beautiful island. High on the hillside above the cobalt-blue bay you’ll find the sacred chapel where an exiled John of Patmos is said to have entered the Cave of the Apocalypse and prophesied of the end of the world’s fire and brimstone – a striking juxtaposition with the peaceful serenity of the calm location. Higher up you’ll find the 11th-century Monastery of St. John which offers spectacular views of the island’s mounds curving around like a scorpion’s tail. It stands watching over the island like a fortified crown. Sun-wrinkled black-robed monks climb the streets up to this World Heritage site where bells peel out melodically. Inside vaulted chambers and stunning frescoes tell stories amid the striking religious iconography. Chora’s incredible narrow streets – moulded white – are an enchanting place to lose your bearings spreading below the monastery. Elsewhere blissful beaches stretch out across the coastline or this remote Greek island’s curves can be admired while bobbing offshore in a sailboat.

Syros is an island in the Aegean Sea, 78 miles (125 kilometres) southeast of Athens, and the administrative, commercial, intellectual and cultural centre of the Cyclades. Syros is 32 square miles (82.8 square kilometres) in area. Its largest towns are Ermoupoli, the capital of the island and Cyclades, Ano Syros and Vari. Although Syros belongs to the Cyclades islands, its architecture is more medieval than Cycladic. The beaches of Syros are especially inviting, and surrounded by many tourist facilities and accommodations.

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Beautiful sea crisp white beaches and charming medieval villages add character and colour to this gorgeous Greek Island. Part of the Cyclades group of islands visit the capital Ermoupoli to discover a network of picturesque narrow streets and winding alleyways – dotted with fancy old Venetian mansions and elegant domed churches. The colourful town cascades down to an open waterfront of pine-trees and beautiful views. Head to the sparkling marbled central square overlooked by the Town Hall and surrounded by a celebrated collection of neoclassical buildings facing up across narrow streets. A town of peeking bell towers and cobalt-blue domed churches – stop by the Church of the Assumption which treasures an original El Greco wonder inside. Further up you’ll find the small monastery-sprinkled medieval village of Ano Syros. Settled on a hill it offers a glorious view down over the port and white dwellings of Ermoupoli below. You can visit Capuchin Monastery which was built in the 16th century to help the underprivileged. Encounter the Vamvakaris Museum dedicated to Markos Vamvakaris a famous rebetiko musician born here in 1905. Of course Syros is also surrounded by plenty of blissful beaches if you’d rather hit the sands. Finikas beach is nearby and a long luxurious stretch complete with sunbeds and umbrellas. Perfect for catching some sun and shade and watching the blue seawater twinkling.

Milos or Melos is a volcanic Greek island in the Aegean Sea, just north of the Sea of Crete. Milos is the southwesternmost island in the Cyclades group. The Venus de Milo and the Asclepius of Milos were both found on the island, as were a Poseidon and an archaic Apollo now in Athens.

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Milos, one of the thousands of Greek islands, is to be found in the SW Cyclades, a large island group in the Aegean Sea. It is 86 nautical miles from Piraeus and approximately half way between Piraeus and Crete. Its surface area is 151 square kilometres and its varied coastline is 125 kilometres long. Adamas is the main port of Milos and also a seaside village of white houses shimmering on the blue waters of the Aegean. This village was founded in 1835 by refugees from Sfakia who came from Crete after the failure of their rebellion against the Turks From these times and on, Adamas became increasingly important historically because of its large, safe, naturally made harbour, and its strategic position in the eastern Mediterranean Adamas is surrounded by many beaches and offers various touristy facilities such as banks, post-office, doctors, tourist agencies, port police. Many old churches as well as mining and ecclesiastical museums are worth visiting.

Rethymnon is Crete’s third-largest town, after Heraklion and Hania. The population (about 30,000) steadily increases as the town expands—a new quarter follows the coast to the east of the Old Town, where the beachfront has been tastelessly developed with large hotels and other resort facilities catering to tourists on package vacations. However, much of Rethymnon’s charm perseveres in the old Venetian quarter, which is crowded onto a compact peninsula dominated by the huge, fortified Venetian castle known as the Fortezza. Wandering through the narrow alleyways, you come across handsome carved-stone Renaissance doorways belonging to vanished mansions, fountains, archways, and wooden Turkish houses with latticework screens on the balconies to protect the women of the house from prying eyes.

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A romantic arrival below honey-coloured Venetian fortifications welcomes you to the historic heart of Rethymnon. Sandwiched between the sprawling city of Heraklion and the pretty old town of Chania Rethymnon offers history and gorgeous swathes of wide sandy beaches. Delve into the area’s heritage beauty and mythology – surrounded by legendary caves where Zeus is said to have lived monasteries that perch on mountain slopes and gorges that slice through dramatic island scenery. Hours slide past at the beautiful Venetian harbour where coffee cups are cradled and conversations linger in the sun as occasional fishing boats bob by. Rethymnon is one of Crete’s prettiest places and wandering the old town soaking in the charm is a day well spent. Stop off at ivy-tangled cafes in hidden courtyards and admire colourful ornate doorways. Wander to the sparkling water of Rimondi fountain which has quenched the thirst of locals since 1626. To the east Rethymno Beach unravels with well-maintained facilities and plenty of room to relax or swim in the warm Aegean’s embrace. Episkopi Beach is another leisurely option unwinding to the west. Outside of Rethymnon farms cultivate olives and grapes on the sunned slopes – best enjoyed with freshly baked bread and a selection of sheep’s cheese. A splash of local raki – a moreish brandy shot – will also go down a treat. Or dig deep into Crete’s rich archaeological past and Minoan history at Knossos’s ancient city and the world-class Heraklion’s Archaeological Museum.

It’s no wonder that all roads lead to the fascinating and maddening metropolis of Athens. Lift your eyes 200 feet above the city to the Parthenon, its honey-color marble columns rising from a massive limestone base, and you behold architectural perfection that has not been surpassed in 2,500 years. But, today, this shrine of classical form dominates a 21st-century boomtown. To experience Athens—Athína in Greek—fully is to understand the essence of Greece: ancient monuments surviving in a sea of cement, startling beauty amid the squalor, tradition juxtaposed with modernity. Locals depend on humor and flexibility to deal with the chaos; you should do the same. The rewards are immense. Although Athens covers a huge area, the major landmarks of the ancient Greek, Roman, and Byzantine periods are close to the modern city center. You can easily walk from the Acropolis to many other key sites, taking time to browse in shops and relax in cafés and tavernas along the way. From many quarters of the city you can glimpse “the glory that was Greece” in the form of the Acropolis looming above the horizon, but only by actually climbing that rocky precipice can you feel the impact of the ancient settlement. The Acropolis and Filopappou, two craggy hills sitting side by side; the ancient Agora (marketplace); and Kerameikos, the first cemetery, form the core of ancient and Roman Athens. Along the Unification of Archaeological Sites promenade, you can follow stone-paved, tree-lined walkways from site to site, undisturbed by traffic. Cars have also been banned or reduced in other streets in the historical center. In the National Archaeological Museum, vast numbers of artifacts illustrate the many millennia of Greek civilization; smaller museums such as the Goulandris Museum of Cycladic Art Museum and the Byzantine and Christian Museum illuminate the history of particular regions or periods. Athens may seem like one huge city, but it is really a conglomeration of neighborhoods with distinctive characters. The Eastern influences that prevailed during the 400-year rule of the Ottoman Empire are still evident in Monastiraki, the bazaar area near the foot of the Acropolis. On the northern slope of the Acropolis, stroll through Plaka (if possible by moonlight), an area of tranquil streets lined with renovated mansions, to get the flavor of the 19th-century’s gracious lifestyle. The narrow lanes of Anafiotika, a section of Plaka, thread past tiny churches and small, color-washed houses with wooden upper stories, recalling a Cycladic island village. In this maze of winding streets, vestiges of the older city are everywhere: crumbling stairways lined with festive tavernas; dank cellars filled with wine vats; occasionally a court or diminutive garden, enclosed within high walls and filled with magnolia trees and the flaming trumpet-shaped flowers of hibiscus bushes. Formerly run-down old quarters, such as Thission, Gazi and Psirri, popular nightlife areas filled with bars and mezedopoleia (similar to tapas bars), are now in the process of gentrification, although they still retain much of their original charm, as does the colorful produce and meat market on Athinas. The area around Syntagma Square, the tourist hub, and Omonia Square, the commercial heart of the city about 1 km (½ mi) northwest, is distinctly European, having been designed by the court architects of King Otho, a Bavarian, in the 19th century. The chic shops and bistros of ritzy Kolonaki nestle at the foot of Mt. Lycabettus, Athens’s highest hill (909 feet). Each of Athens’s outlying suburbs has a distinctive character: in the north is wealthy, tree-lined Kifissia, once a summer resort for aristocratic Athenians, and in the south and southeast lie Glyfada, Voula, and Vouliagmeni, with their sandy beaches, seaside bars, and lively summer nightlife. Just beyond the city’s southern fringes is Piraeus, a bustling port city of waterside fish tavernas and Saronic Gulf views.

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A city of legend, civilisation and enduring culture, Athens is a majestic and magical urban sprawl. Extraordinary elegance and grace combine with grit and graft in Greece’s capital, where highways encase ruins from antiquity, and gleaming museums and galleries stand beside concrete sprayed with edgy street art. These contrasts enhance and elevate the wonders of this 2,500-year-old city, however, which can count notable contributions to philosophy, drama and democracy, among its global legacy. Piraeus’ giant port and naval base welcome you to the edge of the Athens’ urban area. From there it’s a simple jaunt to the centre. The majestic ancient citadel of the Acropolis dominates an elevated platform and is a constant presence as you explore the city. The wonderful remains of the columned temple of the Parthenon – which date back to the 5th century BC – stand here, representing the pinnacle of classical architecture. The nearby Acropolis Museum adds context to your visit and frames the broad views from its giant glass windows. Or rise up Mount Lycabettus, to be rewarded with perhaps Athens’ best panorama of the Acropolis sitting high over the city on its grand stage. See the marble horseshoe of the Old Olympic Stadium, where the first modern Olympics were held in 1896, for more of the city’s enduring legacy. Elsewhere, golden beaches and temples stretch out along the coastline, should you wish to explore a little further afield. Coffee is an art form to the Greeks, and it’s an unwritten rule that coffee time must never be rushed. So prepare to settle down for a couple of hours and lose yourself in a good chat. Feeling hungry – try traditional souvlaki made with sauces handed from generation to generation.