Copenhagen to Stockholm

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Although much nearer to Sweden, the island of Bornholm has been a Danish possession since 1522 and was once an important Baltic trading port. Today, the islanders make their livelihood from fishing, farming and, increasingly, tourism. Visitors from Scandinavia and Germany flock to Bornholm and the town of Rønne each summer to enjoy the scenic beauty. The south features a coastline of white sand beaches, while the north boasts rugged cliffs; the wooded interior is crisscrossed by hiking trails. Visitors and residents alike have come to appreciate the freshly smoked herring prepared in special smokehouses, a great source of income to boost the local economy. This intriguing, unusual island is especially known for its round churches, which were constructed centuries ago as fortifications against attacks by pagan invaders and pirates. At the northern tip of the island, on one of Bornholm’s steep seaside cliffs are the remains of the 13th-century Hammershus Castle, boasting fine views over the coast. The island’s main town is Rønne. With 15,000 inhabitants, it is a busy place where ferries arrive daily from Copenhagen. Many of Bornholm’s attractions are scattered throughout the island. Rønne is an ideal starting point for exploring the lovely countryside dotted with idyllic farms, ancient churches and rustic herring smokehouses.

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Gdansk, one of Poland’s oldest and most beautiful cities, sits on the edge of the Baltic Sea. Looking around today, it’s difficult to imagine that during World War II, much of the city was reduced to rubble. Painstakingly reconstructed with great skill, the Hanseatic architecture and historical treasures rose like a phoenix from the ruins.Head to the city centre and walk in the footsteps of Polish royalty down the Royal Route, which leads to many of Gdansk’s best-preserved treasures. Passing through majestic stone gates is the wonderful Amber Museum. Learn all you need to know about amber or Baltic gold as it’s known. It’s been collected and worked for over 6000 years in Gdansk, a major contributor to the city’s wealth.Through the Golden Gate lies Dluga street, peek behind the exquisite facades and visit some of the beautifully restored town houses. Stroll on past landmark buildings like the soaring Town Hall, ending up on the very photogenic Mariacka street.Along the waterfront is the striking, modern architecture of the World War II Museum, a poignant space, in the very city where the first shots of the war were fired. The excellent exhibitions leave few unmoved and has rapidly become one of Gdansk’s top attractions.More recent history is explained wonderfully at the European Solidarity Centre down by the shipyards. The trade union “Solidarity” was formed in the 1980’s and Poland’s’ struggle to topple Communism began.Gdansk has certainly earnt its place in the history books of Europe.  

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When thinking of countries of legends, tumult and fabulous architecture, Lithuania does not immediately spring to mind. And yet, it should – particularly Klaipeda, Lithuania’s third largest city (and only seaport). As one of the few eastern ports to not freeze during the cold Baltic Sea winters, Klaipeda has always been a coveted spot. Once known as Memel, the city has had a chequered past. Founded in 1252 by the Teutonic Order, Memel was the capital of Prussia during the Napoleonic wars. It was a German state until 1919, when the signing of the Treaty of Versailles commandeered it for Lithuania. It then surrendered to German hands before and during WWII, but was liberated along with the rest of the country in 1945. As you walk around the pretty town centre, you would be forgiven for thinking that you were not even in Lithuania. The Germanic influence is most apparent in the well-ordered centre, with its fachwerk, (half-timbered) style buildings and cobbled streets. Much of the original architecture was destroyed during WWII, but head for the Art Yard and you’ll not only find examples of what is left from Memel’s past, but also a buzzing hub of street art, coffee shops and independent boutiques. Much of the city’s tourism is focused around neighbouring Spit National Park. This UNESCO World Heritage site of 5,000-year-old peninsula of woods and beach separates the Baltic Sea from the Curonian Lagoon and is a prime example of outstanding universal value to the region.

Rīga has an upscale, big-city feel unmatched in the region. The capital (almost as large as Tallinn and Vilnius combined) is the business center of the area while original, high-quality restaurants and hotels have earned Rīga some bragging rights among its Western European counterparts. The city also doesn’t lack for beauty—Rīga’s Old Town (now a UNESCO World Heritage site) is one of Europe’s most striking examples of the art nouveau architectural style. Long avenues of complex and sometimes whimsical Jugendstil facades hint at Rīga’s grand past. Many were designed by Mikhail Eisenstein, the father of Soviet director Sergei. This style dominates the city center. In many ways, the wonder of Rīga resides less in its individual attractions and more in the fabric of the town itself. In the medieval Old Town, an ornate gable or architrave catches the eye at every turn. The somber and the flamboyant are both represented in this quarter’s 1,000 years of architectural history. Don’t hesitate to just follow where your desire leads—the Old Town is compact and bounded by canals, so it’s difficult to get totally lost. When the Old Town eventually became too crowded, the city burst out into the newer inner suburbs. The rich could afford to leave and build themselves fine fashionable mansions in the style of the day; consequently, city planners created a whole new Rīga. Across the narrow canal, you’ll find the Esplanāde, a vast expanse of parkland with formal gardens and period mansions where the well-heeled stroll and play. Surrounding this is the art nouveau district. Encompassing avenues of splendid family homes (now spruced up in the postcommunist era), the collection has been praised by UNESCO as Europe’s finest in the art nouveau style. The best examples are at Alberta 2, 2a, 4, 6, 8, and 13; Elizabetes 10b; and Strēlnieku 4a. If the weather permits, eschew public transport and stroll between the two districts, taking in the varied skylines and multifaceted facades, and perhaps stopping at a café or two as you go. The city has churches in five Christian denominations and more than 50 museums, many of which cater to eclectic or specialist tastes.

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Centred around a charming UNESCO World Heritage Site listed Old Town Latvia’s capital is a quirky and artistic place – with an extensive collection of gleaming art-deco architecture. With a quirky underbelly and beautifully preserved fairytale architecture it’s no wonder Riga is affectionately known as the Baltic Berlin. Ascend the tower of St. Peter’s Church for a view down over the gingerbread-architecture below. The House of Blackheads is one of the city’s standouts a historic trade guild’s meeting place it adds grace and grandeur to the spacious town square. The much-photographed Three Brothers lean together with their pastel-shaded facades and idiosyncratic personalities. Look out across the River Daugava for an example of modern Riga – the steel and glass of the National Library building. The Freedom Monument stands a full 42 meters tall and is a proud statue marking Lativa’s incredibly hard-won independence. Cavernous hangers – that once housed bomber zeppelins from the First World War – now host one of Europe’s biggest and best food markets. Soak up the smells and sights of Riga Central Market where you can taste pickles smoked herring and piragis – local rolls stuffed with bacon. Take time out in brightly painted cafes and flower-laced courtyards which serve up refreshments and dizzyingly strong self-brewed craft beers. Or head to the greenery of Bastejkalna Park to stroll the banks of the canal and over ornate bridges.

Estonia’s history is sprinkled liberally with long stretches of foreign domination, beginning in 1219 with the Danes, followed without interruption by the Germans, Swedes, and Russians. Only after World War I, with Russia in revolutionary wreckage, was Estonia able to declare its independence. Shortly before World War II, in 1940, that independence was usurped by the Soviets, who—save for a brief three-year occupation by Hitler’s Nazis—proceeded to suppress all forms of national Estonian pride for the next 50 years. Estonia finally regained independence in 1991. In the early 1990s, Estonia’s own Riigikogu (Parliament), not some other nation’s puppet ruler, handed down from the Upper City reforms that forced Estonia to blaze its post-Soviet trail to the European Union. Estonia has been a member of the EU since 2004, and in 2011, the country and its growing economy joined the Eurozone. Tallinn was also named the European City of Culture in 2011, cementing its growing reputation as a cultural hot spot.

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A fairytale city of new and old Tallinn boasts one of the best-preserved UNESCO listed old towns in Northern Europe and balances the traditional and contemporary astutely. A beautiful Baltic capital of storied culture and history Tallinn is riding the wave of a burgeoning reputation as Europe’s hidden gem and it boasts a picturesque allure that few cities can rival. The European City of Culture award in 2011 was a symbol of the country’s increasing integration with the European Union and offered Tallinn a chance to showcase and upgrade its cultural marvels. Walk into the old town through Viru Gates past flower vendors and the smells of roasting nuts. Town Hall Square is the heart and soul of Tallinn and when you walk the narrow cobbled streets that open out into it you’re walking the same pathways that Tallinn’s people have walked since the 13th century. Surrounded by practically complete medieval walls lose yourself in deep museums and visit pretty churches like St. Olaf church – one of the city’s most famous with its sharp green spire puncturing the sky. Head to Kohtuotsa platform in the upper town for views of the city’s sea of red roofs interrupted by church towers and rounded turrets. From here climb Toompea Castle’s central hill before visiting the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral – easily recognisable by its bold colours and trio of black onion domes.

A city of the sea, Helsinki was built along a series of oddly shaped peninsulas and islands jutting into the Baltic coast along the Gulf of Finland. Streets and avenues curve around bays, bridges reach to nearby islands, and ferries ply among offshore islands.Having grown dramatically since World War II, Helsinki now absorbs more than one-tenth of the Finnish population. The metro area covers 764 square km (474 square miles) and 315 islands. Most sights, hotels, and restaurants cluster on one peninsula, forming a compact central hub. The greater Helsinki metropolitan area, which includes Espoo and Vantaa, has a total population of more than a million people.Helsinki is a relatively young city compared with other European capitals. In the 16th century, King Gustav Vasa of Sweden decided to woo trade from the Estonian city of Tallinn and thus challenge the Hanseatic League’s monopoly on Baltic trade. Accordingly, he commanded the people of four Finnish towns to pack up their belongings and relocate to the rapids on the River Vantaa. The new town, founded on June 12, 1550, was named Helsinki.For three centuries, Helsinki (Helsingfors in Swedish) had its ups and downs as a trading town. Turku, to the west, remained Finland’s capital and intellectual center. However, Helsinki’s fortunes improved when Finland fell under Russian rule as an autonomous grand duchy. Czar Alexander I wanted Finland’s political center closer to Russia and, in 1812, selected Helsinki as the new capital. Shortly afterward, Turku suffered a disastrous fire, forcing the university to move to Helsinki. The town’s future was secure.Just before the czar’s proclamation, a fire destroyed many of Helsinki’s traditional wooden structures, precipitating the construction of new buildings suitable for a nation’s capital. The German-born architect Carl Ludvig Engel was commissioned to rebuild the city, and as a result, Helsinki has some of the purest neoclassical architecture in the world. Add to this foundation the influence of Stockholm and St. Petersburg with the local inspiration of 20th-century Finnish design, and the result is a European capital city that is as architecturally eye-catching as it is distinct from other Scandinavian capitals. You are bound to discover endless engaging details—a grimacing gargoyle; a foursome of males supporting a balcony’s weight on their shoulders; a building painted in striking colors with contrasting flowers in the windows. The city’s 400 or so parks make it particularly inviting in summer.Today, Helsinki is still a meeting point of eastern and western Europe, which is reflected in its cosmopolitan image, the influx of Russians and Estonians, and generally multilingual population. Outdoor summer bars (“terrassit” as the locals call them) and cafés in the city center are perfect for people watching on a summer afternoon.

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A thriving flawlessly-designed seaside city Helsinki is famously livable and inspiring. A regional powerhouse of outstanding design and creativity Helsinki lies across a confetti scattering of 300 islands and skerries in the Gulf of Finland. Known for the light granite hue of its buildings – which lend the city a bright whitewashed appearance – traditional buildings mingle seamlessly with bold new structures showcasing Finland’s celebrated design outlook. Helsinki Cathedral is the crowning glory – rising high over the city’s waterfront with its pearly white domes gleaming.   A city that reveres knowledge and creativity above all else artworks and statues litter the streets and parks honouring creative minds of the past. Open parks offer space to lie back and soak up summer’s sun while sculptures like the abstract organs of the Sibelius Monument celebrate national heroes like composer Jean Sibelius – whose music gave Finland national identity in the quest for independence. Feel the stunning acoustics of the incredible Rock Church deep in your gut as you witness a performance in this collaboration between man and nature. Helsinki’s easy-going forward-thinking way of life was hard fought for and the spectacular Suomenlinna fortress rears out of the waves as a reminder of the historical struggles that have played out in this stretch of sea. Sail out to the quaint little beaches and waterfront pathways that now lend a calm peaceful ambience to this UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Stockholm is a city in the flush of its second youth. Since the mid-1990s, Sweden’s capital has emerged from its cold, Nordic shadow to take the stage as a truly international city. What started with entry into the European Union in 1995 gained pace with the extraordinary IT boom of the late 1990s, strengthened with the Skype-led IT second wave of 2003, and solidified with the hedge-fund invasion that is still happening today as Stockholm gains even more global confidence. And despite more recent economic turmoil, Stockholm’s 1 million or so inhabitants have, almost as one, realized that their city is one to rival Paris, London, New York, or any other great metropolis.With this realization comes change. Stockholm has become a city of design, fashion, innovation, technology, and world-class food, pairing homegrown talent with an international outlook. The streets are flowing with a young and confident population keen to drink in everything the city has to offer. The glittering feeling of optimism, success, and living in the here and now is rampant in Stockholm.Stockholm also has plenty of history. Positioned where the waters of Lake Mälaren rush into the Baltic, it’s been an important trading site and a wealthy international city for centuries. Built on 14 islands joined by bridges crossing open bays and narrow channels, Stockholm boasts the story of its history in its glorious medieval old town, grand palaces, ancient churches, sturdy edifices, public parks, and 19th-century museums—its history is soaked into the very fabric of its airy boulevards, built as a public display of trading glory.

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Stylish Stockholm has enough to occupy you for a lifetime from cathedral-like food markets to simmering baths and natural escapes. Visit the staggeringly beautiful interior of Stockholm’s City Hall or learn more about one of Sweden’s best-known exports – with a visit to the ABBA museum. The history is deep and the architecture typically stylish as you explore this capital of Scandi cool. The Gamla Stan old town is a storied historic core of cobbled streets and brightly hued towering townhouses standing side by side. Attractive squares fill with the smells of fried herring from traditional restaurants while the latest culinary trends sweep through the city’s revered kitchens. Breathe in the crisp clean air and relish the tranquillity and atmosphere of a truly great and grand Baltic city. Stockholm’s visitors and residents spill outdoors in the summertime to the city’s beaches and the archipelago’s scattering of 24 000 islands and islets nearby. Steamboats puff scenic routes between them. Stockholm itself sprawls across 14 islands interlinked with dozens of arching bridges. Shimmering canals and leafy green parks offer peace and sanctuary within the city while trendy bars coffee shops and rooftop cocktail joints add to the hip and happening appeal. Stockholm’s bustling shopping streets also showcase cutting edge trends for the fashion-conscious.