Doha to Athens

Rising like an oasis in the Persian Gulf, Manamah is no mirage. The capital of Bahrain (with a population of around 150, 000), the city houses almost a quarter of all Bahranis. At times resembling something from 1001 nights and at others like something from the set of a sci-fi futuristic drama Al Manamah is just beginning to get seen on the savvy traveller’s map. Mentioned in Islamic chronicles since 1345 and conquered by the Portuguese in 1521, Manamah is anything except typical. Expect to feast both your eyes and your stomachs here with the quintessence of Muslim hospitality – from delicious bowls laden with love and eons of history to the plethora of genuine, warm invitations to share tea with the locals, hospitality is taken very seriously here. For culture vultures, the Al Fateh Mosque (one of the world’s largest and by far the largest in Bahrain), this is a sight – and site – to see. First and foremost a place of worship that offers tours on the side, it is important to remember that this is a sacred place and traditions and cultures must be respected. Dress modestly, remove your shoes and women should cover their heads – note that garmets will be provided if necessary. However, as one of the most liberal countries in the Middle East, visitors should expect an enthusiastic welcome, inquisitive guides and a huge library to get lost in. Moving on, seven nominated UNESCO World Heritage sites prove the extent of Bahrain’s dedication to conservation of the past. Although only two so far have been approved – the Ancient Harbour and the Pearling Trail that is said to date back to 2,000 BC, one really does get a feeling in Manamah that the past is all around.

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Rising like an oasis in the Persian Gulf, Manamah is no mirage. Mentioned in Islamic chronicles since 1345 and conquered by the Portuguese in 1521, Manamah is anything except typical. Expect to feast both your eyes and your stomachs here with the quintessence of Muslim hospitality – from delicious bowls laden with love and eons of history to the plethora of genuine, warm invitations to share tea with the locals, hospitality is taken very seriously here. For culture vultures, the Al Fateh Mosque (one of the world’s largest and by far the largest in Bahrain), this is a sight – and site – to see. First and foremost a place of worship that offers tours on the side, it is important to remember that this is a sacred place and traditions and cultures must be respected. Dress modestly, remove your shoes and women should cover their heads – note that garmets will be provided if necessary. However, as one of the most liberal countries in the Middle East, visitors should expect an enthusiastic welcome, inquisitive guides and a huge library to get lost in. Moving on, seven nominated UNESCO World Heritage sites prove the extent of Bahrain’s dedication to conservation of the past. Although only two so far have been approved – the Ancient Harbour and the Pearling Trail that is said to date back to 2,000 BC, one really does get a feeling in Manamah that the past is all around.

Just a few decades ago, Abu Dhabi, the island capital of the United Arab Emirates, was a small fishing village with houses made of mud-brick and palm fronds. Today, as a result of revenue from oil, Abu Dhabi is one of the world’s richest cities, with wide, tree-lined okulevards, lush green parks, gushing fountains and imposing skyscrapers. Somewhat of a dichotomy, Abu Dhabi is a combination of ultra-modern sophistication and Arab mystique, with friendly and hospitable people offering a warm welcome to visitors. Abu Dhabi’s history originated in the 18th century, when, according to legend, a group of tribesmen pursuing a gazelle came upon a freshwater well which they named Abu Dhabi, or “Father of the Gazelle”. In the 19th century, the first fort was built over this well by a sheikh of the Al-Nahyan dynasty. The fort’s name is Al Husn Palace, also known as Old or White Fort, and it is one of the few buildings in Abu Dhabi that is more than 25 years old. Its whitewashed walls are eye-catching amid the backdrop of today’s skyscrapers. Presently, it is home to the Cultural Foundation and serves as a documents centre. Abu Dhabi had little significance until the discovery of vast oil reserves in the late 1950s and early 1960s. In the years following, the city’s economy and infrastructure developed rapidly and changed Abu Dhabi beyond recognition.

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Emerging from the desert’s sands like a mirage, Abu Dhabi’s bold, brash and brilliant skyline continues to reach new heights. The extravagance on show can be dizzying at times, but it’s counterpointed by authentic history and culture, and majestic religious statements. You’ll shrink before the scale of the 50 exquisite, pearl-white domes of the Sheikh Zayed Mosque, which is the UAE’s largest and most revered religious space. A healthy pearl trade, and strategic location, brought prosperity in the 19th century, before the discovery of rich oil reserves propelled the city giddily skywards in the latter half of the 20th century. Nowadays, palatial hotels tower above dazzling ocean and white sands, while ever-reliable weather and remarkable extravagances, make Abu Dhabi a location of unbridled opulence and intrigue. The city’s cultural scene is also burgeoning, with a stunning Louvre outpost recently opening for business. Find your bearings by ascending 300 metres to the heights of the Etihad Towers’ viewing platform – where you can butter scones while enjoying a ‘high tea’ in every sense. The relentlessly glorious weather makes the coral-blue sea’s sparkle ever-tempting, and at Saadiyat Public Beach you’ll find clear blue waves lapping soft, sugar-white sand. Wade out to enjoy bath-like temperatures of 30 degrees. The Corniche, meanwhile, is a sweeping coastal walkway, stretching for eight kilometres and offering rich views of the coral-blue ocean back-dropped by jagged skyscrapers.

Just a few decades ago, Abu Dhabi, the island capital of the United Arab Emirates, was a small fishing village with houses made of mud-brick and palm fronds. Today, as a result of revenue from oil, Abu Dhabi is one of the world’s richest cities, with wide, tree-lined okulevards, lush green parks, gushing fountains and imposing skyscrapers. Somewhat of a dichotomy, Abu Dhabi is a combination of ultra-modern sophistication and Arab mystique, with friendly and hospitable people offering a warm welcome to visitors. Abu Dhabi’s history originated in the 18th century, when, according to legend, a group of tribesmen pursuing a gazelle came upon a freshwater well which they named Abu Dhabi, or “Father of the Gazelle”. In the 19th century, the first fort was built over this well by a sheikh of the Al-Nahyan dynasty. The fort’s name is Al Husn Palace, also known as Old or White Fort, and it is one of the few buildings in Abu Dhabi that is more than 25 years old. Its whitewashed walls are eye-catching amid the backdrop of today’s skyscrapers. Presently, it is home to the Cultural Foundation and serves as a documents centre. Abu Dhabi had little significance until the discovery of vast oil reserves in the late 1950s and early 1960s. In the years following, the city’s economy and infrastructure developed rapidly and changed Abu Dhabi beyond recognition.

Day itinerary:

Emerging from the desert’s sands like a mirage, Abu Dhabi’s bold, brash and brilliant skyline continues to reach new heights. The extravagance on show can be dizzying at times, but it’s counterpointed by authentic history and culture, and majestic religious statements. You’ll shrink before the scale of the 50 exquisite, pearl-white domes of the Sheikh Zayed Mosque, which is the UAE’s largest and most revered religious space. A healthy pearl trade, and strategic location, brought prosperity in the 19th century, before the discovery of rich oil reserves propelled the city giddily skywards in the latter half of the 20th century. Nowadays, palatial hotels tower above dazzling ocean and white sands, while ever-reliable weather and remarkable extravagances, make Abu Dhabi a location of unbridled opulence and intrigue. The city’s cultural scene is also burgeoning, with a stunning Louvre outpost recently opening for business. Find your bearings by ascending 300 metres to the heights of the Etihad Towers’ viewing platform – where you can butter scones while enjoying a ‘high tea’ in every sense. The relentlessly glorious weather makes the coral-blue sea’s sparkle ever-tempting, and at Saadiyat Public Beach you’ll find clear blue waves lapping soft, sugar-white sand. Wade out to enjoy bath-like temperatures of 30 degrees. The Corniche, meanwhile, is a sweeping coastal walkway, stretching for eight kilometres and offering rich views of the coral-blue ocean back-dropped by jagged skyscrapers.

See Khasab’s jutting fjords, and the dolphins playing in the emerald waters, and it’s forgivable to think you’ve stumbled across a surreal Norway. The burning sun and scorched earth, serve as a constant reminder that you’re a long way from Europe, however – although the Portuguese roots mean there’s a colonial tint to the city. Sitting on the Northern coast of Oman, reaching across towards Iran, this is an isolated and fascinating destination to explore. The remote location, and limited infrastructure here, until recent times, means Khasab has been left to live life at its own pace, and the city sings to its own song sheet. Even now you can see a blind eye being turned to the smugglers who whisk electronics across the Gulf to Iran, in small speed boats.

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It may be known as the Norway of Arabia – in reference to the spectacular fjords that cut and shape the Musandam Peninsular – but Khasab’s scorching sun and desert landscape is a constant reminder that you’re a long way from Europe. Sitting isolated on Oman’s Northern coast – cut off by a slice of the United Arab Emirates’ territory – this small city has a dreamy introverted atmosphere – until you head out in a 4X4 to slip and slide across its rip-roaring mountain scenery that is. Explore the incredible desert fjords and folding sandy mountains by boat and be on the look out for the rubbery noses of bottlenose and humpback dolphins poking through the water. Legendarily friendly and curious don’t be surprised to see them swimming through the blue waters with you displaying all of their aquatic athletic prowess as you sail by traditional wooden dhow. Cruise up along the Strait of Hormuz between Oman and Iran and marvel at the long stretches of dramatic golden fjord scenery. Back on land learn of local history at Khasab Castle which was originally built in the 17th century by the Portuguese to defend the narrowing of the Persian Gulf at this highly strategic point. It’s accompanied by a museum which depicts local life here back through the ages. Or drive out to Bedouin villages and hold on tight during the white-knuckle drive up to the viewpoint at Khawr Najd – where sweeping views of the flayed fjords unveil themselves.

The lush landscape around Salalah is the intriguing result of a quirk of nature. Since it is uniquely situated in the path of the Khareef, or South Western Monsoon, this stretch of the Dhofar Coast is covered in fine mist and frequent rain from mid-June through mid-September. By the time the monsoons cease, the entire coastline is a verdant stretch. Waterfalls, rolling grasslands, and thickly wooded wadis (riverbeds) thrive alongside rapid mountain streams. Unique in this desert region, Salalah attracts many visitors from the surrounding Arabian Gulf countries who are anxious to experience a rare lushness in a region where rain and greenery are in short supply. Once a stop on the ancient trading routes that connected the Levant to India and China, Salalah has a rich history that goes back centuries. Traders from Mesopotamia, the Persian Empire, and beyond passed through Salalah in their search for frankincense, making it a major center for trade in the coveted exotic ingredient. Pre-Islamic tombs and grave sites, some believed to be up to 2,000 years old, are scattered all over the nearby mountainsides and the present-day city, which has an estimated 195,000 inhabitants.

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Combining thrilling history with gorgeous beaches and luxury spas Oman’s second-biggest city is cradled by tempting ocean waters and the soaring Dhofar Mountains. Banana plantations sprawl out and dense gatherings of coconut palms rustle together before Salalah’s cherished powdery white beaches. Sweet fragrances linger in Salalah’s souqs where exotic incenses perfumes and spices are traded. Set in Dhofar province the desert staging is smudged with greenery and life during the downpours and misty rains of Khareef season. The clouds tame the heat and fuel stunning waterfall torrents with a local festival celebrating the arrival of this monsoon each year. Even in drier months the earlier deluges ensure that there is an added vibrancy to the ravines and wadis nearby. Enjoy the sunshine and settle into the sandy embrace of luxury beaches before indulging in stress-relieving massages. Head to popular spots like Al Mughsail beach where explosive blowholes boom with frothing spray as the waters collide with coastal rock formations. Travel back in time at the UNESCO World Heritage Site listed ancient city of Dhufa – which has been reclaimed from the rusty desert soil at Al Baleed Archeological Park. An ancient centre of frankincense trade the on-site museum explains the history of this precious ingredient extracted from the region’s fragrant Boswellia trees and exported far and wide.

Port Safago has been undergoing a transformation, slowly metamorphosing into a holiday rsort. Like other cities on the Red Sea, the commercial port town sits close to great offshore dive sites. Unlike others, however, tourist development hasn’t taken off in a meaningful way. But if the mass tourism in Hurghada is a turnoff, Safaga offers a small-scale and much more low-key alternative, though the best dive sites can still be seen on a day trip from Hurghada. Safaga is also the closest beach resort to Luxor and the Valley of the Kings, which lies 200 km (124 mi) to the southwest; when cruise ships offer land excursions to Luxor, they often do so through Safaga.

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Unravel the mysteries and marvel at the artistry and scale of some of Ancient Egypt’s most important and impressive monuments which rise from the fertile plains and palm groves of the River Nile. Safaga’s port sits on the Red Sea’s dazzling coastline where gorgeous beaches and super waters for diving and snorkelling await. Unwind here amid the colourful fish life or lie back to soak in ever-reliable sunshine. Most will choose to head inland to the banks of one of the world’s longest and most storied rivers – where the immense treasures of Ancient Egypt loom in the desert’s haze. Modern Luxor rests beside the Nile and is set amid an unparalleled archaeological site of swirling legend and ancient beauty. This vast open-air museum sprawls out below the burning sun and you’ll discover preserved ancient tombs momentous statues like the Colossi of Memnon and vast columned temples with rows of statues such as the Temple of Karnak. Soak in the surroundings on boats which meander up and down the river or head out to tick off as many of the remarkable ruins as you can. Cultural treasures like the World Heritage Site listed Valley of the Kings – carved into the copper rock of the desert – provided elaborate resting places for Ancient Egypt’s revered Pharaohs. Head into incredibly preserved tombs decorated with majestic and mystical symbols and colourful artworks.

The port and town of Sharm-el-Sheikh lies near the southernmost tip of the Sinai Peninsula where the Straits of Tiran meet the Gulf of Aqaba. With its strategic position, the Sinai posed a desirable target for various rulers over the centuries. In recent times, the last battle for the Sinai was fought between Egypt and Israel from 1967 to 1979, ending with a peace treaty signed in Washington, D.C. Since the withdrawal of the Israelis, more and more Egyptians have settled in the Sinai, taking advantage of the booming tourist trade. However, vast interior regions are still sparsely populated. Many Bedouins have been affected by the advent of the 21st century, which is rapidly changing their age-old customs and nomadic lifestyle. As tourism and hotel projects continue to spring up along the Sinai coast, contact with Bedouins not involved in tourism is becoming increasingly rare. Once their nomadic life kept them on the move with their tents; today many Bedouins cultivate grain, vegetables and dates in addition to catering to the tourists. Sharm-el-Sheikh was initially developed by the Israelis during the Sinai occupation. Na’ama Bay, a short drive from the port, has grown from virtually nothing into a sizeable resort since the early 1980s. Between the two towns, a string of hotels line a once-untouched coastline. Resort hotels offer great opportunities for swimming, snorkelling and scuba diving. Glass bottom boat trips are available for those preferring to view the exotic marine life of the Red Sea without getting their feet wet.

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This holiday city has blossomed from small fishing village roots to a global tourism centre and it boasts exceptional dive sites rich heritage and adrenaline-raising desert scenery among its many assets. The gorgeous waters of the Red Sea invite you to bathe swim and dive in amongst incredible marine life painted with every colour of the spectrum. The Red Sea is famous for the world of life that thrives below its glittering surface and you can snorkel among the swirling fish or lounge at leisure on the soft sands of Egypt’s sun-drenched shores. Head out to find the treasured diving and snorkelling spots – swimming amid corals gently swaying in underwater currents. Angelfish clownfish and gliding rays all inhabit the reefs here along with a confetti of tiny red and yellow fish. Ras Mohammed National Park which waits on a peninsular nearby is renowned for having some of the best diving opportunities in the world. Back on land explore lively Na’ama Bay where humming restaurants cafes and shisha bars are filled with holidaymakers. Encounter the massive El Mustafa Mosque with its marvellous domes and minaret rocketing up into the blue sky impelling worshippers to pray. Wade into the market to enjoy the challenge of securing a bargain – haggling is an essential part of the local culture here. Or get your thrills by roaring across rolling biblical desert scenery whipping up a wave of fine sand in your wake as you storm the landscape in a 4X4.

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The Suez Canal gouged through Africa is one of the world’s engineering marvels – linking two seas and drastically shortening boat voyages around this huge continent. Few manmade waterways are so storied and iconic and sailing the length of it is a bucket list item for many explorers. The construction of the canal started in 1859 and took ten years to complete with the canal officially opening in November 1869. More than a million people worked on the project often in unimaginable conditions. An engineering breakthrough the canal connected the Mediterranean to the Red Sea – drastically improving global trade’s efficiency. A hugely strategic and precious bottleneck it has inevitably led to conflicts – and been vulnerable to scuttling to block its usage. The Six-Day War closed the canal leaving 15 unfortunate ships trapped within for eight years. An amazing story the crew members of the Yellow Fleet – named as their ships slowly gathered desert sand – adapted and created a community within the confines of Bitter Lake. Sit back and admire the desert views as you transit the 101 Mile expanse occasionally interrupted by little villages with domed mosques and minarets towering into the sky. Look out for the tiny fishing boats that share the canal’s waterway dwarfed by giant container ships – the plucky fishermen courageously refuse to yield to the massive vessels they sail beside.

It’s no wonder that all roads lead to the fascinating and maddening metropolis of Athens. Lift your eyes 200 feet above the city to the Parthenon, its honey-color marble columns rising from a massive limestone base, and you behold architectural perfection that has not been surpassed in 2,500 years. But, today, this shrine of classical form dominates a 21st-century boomtown. To experience Athens—Athína in Greek—fully is to understand the essence of Greece: ancient monuments surviving in a sea of cement, startling beauty amid the squalor, tradition juxtaposed with modernity. Locals depend on humor and flexibility to deal with the chaos; you should do the same. The rewards are immense. Although Athens covers a huge area, the major landmarks of the ancient Greek, Roman, and Byzantine periods are close to the modern city center. You can easily walk from the Acropolis to many other key sites, taking time to browse in shops and relax in cafés and tavernas along the way. From many quarters of the city you can glimpse “the glory that was Greece” in the form of the Acropolis looming above the horizon, but only by actually climbing that rocky precipice can you feel the impact of the ancient settlement. The Acropolis and Filopappou, two craggy hills sitting side by side; the ancient Agora (marketplace); and Kerameikos, the first cemetery, form the core of ancient and Roman Athens. Along the Unification of Archaeological Sites promenade, you can follow stone-paved, tree-lined walkways from site to site, undisturbed by traffic. Cars have also been banned or reduced in other streets in the historical center. In the National Archaeological Museum, vast numbers of artifacts illustrate the many millennia of Greek civilization; smaller museums such as the Goulandris Museum of Cycladic Art Museum and the Byzantine and Christian Museum illuminate the history of particular regions or periods. Athens may seem like one huge city, but it is really a conglomeration of neighborhoods with distinctive characters. The Eastern influences that prevailed during the 400-year rule of the Ottoman Empire are still evident in Monastiraki, the bazaar area near the foot of the Acropolis. On the northern slope of the Acropolis, stroll through Plaka (if possible by moonlight), an area of tranquil streets lined with renovated mansions, to get the flavor of the 19th-century’s gracious lifestyle. The narrow lanes of Anafiotika, a section of Plaka, thread past tiny churches and small, color-washed houses with wooden upper stories, recalling a Cycladic island village. In this maze of winding streets, vestiges of the older city are everywhere: crumbling stairways lined with festive tavernas; dank cellars filled with wine vats; occasionally a court or diminutive garden, enclosed within high walls and filled with magnolia trees and the flaming trumpet-shaped flowers of hibiscus bushes. Formerly run-down old quarters, such as Thission, Gazi and Psirri, popular nightlife areas filled with bars and mezedopoleia (similar to tapas bars), are now in the process of gentrification, although they still retain much of their original charm, as does the colorful produce and meat market on Athinas. The area around Syntagma Square, the tourist hub, and Omonia Square, the commercial heart of the city about 1 km (½ mi) northwest, is distinctly European, having been designed by the court architects of King Otho, a Bavarian, in the 19th century. The chic shops and bistros of ritzy Kolonaki nestle at the foot of Mt. Lycabettus, Athens’s highest hill (909 feet). Each of Athens’s outlying suburbs has a distinctive character: in the north is wealthy, tree-lined Kifissia, once a summer resort for aristocratic Athenians, and in the south and southeast lie Glyfada, Voula, and Vouliagmeni, with their sandy beaches, seaside bars, and lively summer nightlife. Just beyond the city’s southern fringes is Piraeus, a bustling port city of waterside fish tavernas and Saronic Gulf views.

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A city of legend, civilisation and enduring culture, Athens is a majestic and magical urban sprawl. Extraordinary elegance and grace combine with grit and graft in Greece’s capital, where highways encase ruins from antiquity, and gleaming museums and galleries stand beside concrete sprayed with edgy street art. These contrasts enhance and elevate the wonders of this 2,500-year-old city, however, which can count notable contributions to philosophy, drama and democracy, among its global legacy. Piraeus’ giant port and naval base welcome you to the edge of the Athens’ urban area. From there it’s a simple jaunt to the centre. The majestic ancient citadel of the Acropolis dominates an elevated platform and is a constant presence as you explore the city. The wonderful remains of the columned temple of the Parthenon – which date back to the 5th century BC – stand here, representing the pinnacle of classical architecture. The nearby Acropolis Museum adds context to your visit and frames the broad views from its giant glass windows. Or rise up Mount Lycabettus, to be rewarded with perhaps Athens’ best panorama of the Acropolis sitting high over the city on its grand stage. See the marble horseshoe of the Old Olympic Stadium, where the first modern Olympics were held in 1896, for more of the city’s enduring legacy. Elsewhere, golden beaches and temples stretch out along the coastline, should you wish to explore a little further afield. Coffee is an art form to the Greeks, and it’s an unwritten rule that coffee time must never be rushed. So prepare to settle down for a couple of hours and lose yourself in a good chat. Feeling hungry – try traditional souvlaki made with sauces handed from generation to generation.