Mumbai to Athens

Oman’s capital city is hemmed in on one side by spectacular jagged-peaked mountains and on the other by royal blue sea. The architecture is a traditional, sophisticated arabesque blend of white-washed, low-rise buildings surrounded by manicured palms, intricately designed domes set atop the minarets of the mosques, sand-colored villas, a surprising blend of modern art installations, like a giant incense burner that towers over the Corniche, and ancient forts set in the rocky hills. Though tradition abounds, from distinct, local cuisine to the widely worn national dress, the dishdasha, Muscat is a completely modern city, featuring opulent luxury hotels, international restaurants, excellent cellular and data service, sprawling shopping malls, pristine beaches, lively nightlife, world-class performing arts, and a highly educated population, most of whom speak English, Arabic, and often Hindi. Muscat is the ideal base for exploring other areas of the country since many of the most desirable destinations are within a few hours’ drive.

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Oman’s capital rests overlooking the coast of the Gulf of Oman, tucked away among the country’s mountains. Discover a city surrounded by neat gardens – with streets lined by palm trees and crumbling Portuguese forts providing a tangible link to the past. Explore an elegant array of domes, minarets and marbled Arabic archways, as you’re immersed in a city where a traditional conservative outlook mingles with a pragmatic modern approach. Despite a relative boom in recent years, Muscat has clung to its old-world Arabian charm. 

The lush landscape around Salalah is the intriguing result of a quirk of nature. Since it is uniquely situated in the path of the Khareef, or South Western Monsoon, this stretch of the Dhofar Coast is covered in fine mist and frequent rain from mid-June through mid-September. By the time the monsoons cease, the entire coastline is a verdant stretch. Waterfalls, rolling grasslands, and thickly wooded wadis (riverbeds) thrive alongside rapid mountain streams. Unique in this desert region, Salalah attracts many visitors from the surrounding Arabian Gulf countries who are anxious to experience a rare lushness in a region where rain and greenery are in short supply. Once a stop on the ancient trading routes that connected the Levant to India and China, Salalah has a rich history that goes back centuries. Traders from Mesopotamia, the Persian Empire, and beyond passed through Salalah in their search for frankincense, making it a major center for trade in the coveted exotic ingredient. Pre-Islamic tombs and grave sites, some believed to be up to 2,000 years old, are scattered all over the nearby mountainsides and the present-day city, which has an estimated 195,000 inhabitants.

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Combining thrilling history with gorgeous beaches and luxury spas Oman’s second-biggest city is cradled by tempting ocean waters and the soaring Dhofar Mountains. Banana plantations sprawl out and dense gatherings of coconut palms rustle together before Salalah’s cherished powdery white beaches. Sweet fragrances linger in Salalah’s souqs where exotic incenses perfumes and spices are traded. Set in Dhofar province the desert staging is smudged with greenery and life during the downpours and misty rains of Khareef season. The clouds tame the heat and fuel stunning waterfall torrents with a local festival celebrating the arrival of this monsoon each year. Even in drier months the earlier deluges ensure that there is an added vibrancy to the ravines and wadis nearby. Enjoy the sunshine and settle into the sandy embrace of luxury beaches before indulging in stress-relieving massages. Head to popular spots like Al Mughsail beach where explosive blowholes boom with frothing spray as the waters collide with coastal rock formations. Travel back in time at the UNESCO World Heritage Site listed ancient city of Dhufa – which has been reclaimed from the rusty desert soil at Al Baleed Archeological Park. An ancient centre of frankincense trade the on-site museum explains the history of this precious ingredient extracted from the region’s fragrant Boswellia trees and exported far and wide.

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The principal gateway to Mecca, Jeddah’s spiritual roots are very deep. Eve, the mother of mankind, is said to be buried in the city centre (although sceptics claim there is no actual proof), while archeological excavations in the old city suggest evidence of pre-Islam (700 BC) activity. Regrettably only scant vestiges of historical Jeddah remain, a reason why UNESCO deemed the city a World Heritage Site in 2014.An interesting by product of Jeddah’s location as major port on the Red Sea and proximity to Mecca (around 100 kms) is that Muslims from all over the world flock to the city. This has given Jeddah a very cosmopolitan feel, unlike other parts of Saudi Arabia. The 19th century Red Sea architecture is unique in its kind. Beach side, the city offers much. Jeddha’s dive sites are among the best in the world while the laid-back approach is appealing to westerners. However, while the city might well be more open than other ports in the Kingdom, it is still Saudi Arabia and when in doubt, visitors – especially women – should err on the side of modesty when it comes to beach wear.Traditionally, the city is rich. The souk in the heart of the old town is, of course, a must see during your visit, offering everything from amazing architecture to bargains galore. The area is also home to the oldest mosque in Jeddah, built in the 17th century (but renovated in 2012). Local delicacies range from fabulously fresh seafood to the ubiquitous kebab, so foodies will have much to tease their palettes with.

Port Safago has been undergoing a transformation, slowly metamorphosing into a holiday rsort. Like other cities on the Red Sea, the commercial port town sits close to great offshore dive sites. Unlike others, however, tourist development hasn’t taken off in a meaningful way. But if the mass tourism in Hurghada is a turnoff, Safaga offers a small-scale and much more low-key alternative, though the best dive sites can still be seen on a day trip from Hurghada. Safaga is also the closest beach resort to Luxor and the Valley of the Kings, which lies 200 km (124 mi) to the southwest; when cruise ships offer land excursions to Luxor, they often do so through Safaga.

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Unravel the mysteries and marvel at the artistry and scale of some of Ancient Egypt’s most important and impressive monuments which rise from the fertile plains and palm groves of the River Nile. Safaga’s port sits on the Red Sea’s dazzling coastline where gorgeous beaches and super waters for diving and snorkelling await. Unwind here amid the colourful fish life or lie back to soak in ever-reliable sunshine. Most will choose to head inland to the banks of one of the world’s longest and most storied rivers – where the immense treasures of Ancient Egypt loom in the desert’s haze. Modern Luxor rests beside the Nile and is set amid an unparalleled archaeological site of swirling legend and ancient beauty. This vast open-air museum sprawls out below the burning sun and you’ll discover preserved ancient tombs momentous statues like the Colossi of Memnon and vast columned temples with rows of statues such as the Temple of Karnak. Soak in the surroundings on boats which meander up and down the river or head out to tick off as many of the remarkable ruins as you can. Cultural treasures like the World Heritage Site listed Valley of the Kings – carved into the copper rock of the desert – provided elaborate resting places for Ancient Egypt’s revered Pharaohs. Head into incredibly preserved tombs decorated with majestic and mystical symbols and colourful artworks.

Port Safago has been undergoing a transformation, slowly metamorphosing into a holiday rsort. Like other cities on the Red Sea, the commercial port town sits close to great offshore dive sites. Unlike others, however, tourist development hasn’t taken off in a meaningful way. But if the mass tourism in Hurghada is a turnoff, Safaga offers a small-scale and much more low-key alternative, though the best dive sites can still be seen on a day trip from Hurghada. Safaga is also the closest beach resort to Luxor and the Valley of the Kings, which lies 200 km (124 mi) to the southwest; when cruise ships offer land excursions to Luxor, they often do so through Safaga.

Day itinerary:

Unravel the mysteries and marvel at the artistry and scale of some of Ancient Egypt’s most important and impressive monuments which rise from the fertile plains and palm groves of the River Nile. Safaga’s port sits on the Red Sea’s dazzling coastline where gorgeous beaches and super waters for diving and snorkelling await. Unwind here amid the colourful fish life or lie back to soak in ever-reliable sunshine. Most will choose to head inland to the banks of one of the world’s longest and most storied rivers – where the immense treasures of Ancient Egypt loom in the desert’s haze. Modern Luxor rests beside the Nile and is set amid an unparalleled archaeological site of swirling legend and ancient beauty. This vast open-air museum sprawls out below the burning sun and you’ll discover preserved ancient tombs momentous statues like the Colossi of Memnon and vast columned temples with rows of statues such as the Temple of Karnak. Soak in the surroundings on boats which meander up and down the river or head out to tick off as many of the remarkable ruins as you can. Cultural treasures like the World Heritage Site listed Valley of the Kings – carved into the copper rock of the desert – provided elaborate resting places for Ancient Egypt’s revered Pharaohs. Head into incredibly preserved tombs decorated with majestic and mystical symbols and colourful artworks.

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The Suez Canal gouged through Africa is one of the world’s engineering marvels – linking two seas and drastically shortening boat voyages around this huge continent. Few manmade waterways are so storied and iconic and sailing the length of it is a bucket list item for many explorers. The construction of the canal started in 1859 and took ten years to complete with the canal officially opening in November 1869. More than a million people worked on the project often in unimaginable conditions. An engineering breakthrough the canal connected the Mediterranean to the Red Sea – drastically improving global trade’s efficiency. A hugely strategic and precious bottleneck it has inevitably led to conflicts – and been vulnerable to scuttling to block its usage. The Six-Day War closed the canal leaving 15 unfortunate ships trapped within for eight years. An amazing story the crew members of the Yellow Fleet – named as their ships slowly gathered desert sand – adapted and created a community within the confines of Bitter Lake. Sit back and admire the desert views as you transit the 101 Mile expanse occasionally interrupted by little villages with domed mosques and minarets towering into the sky. Look out for the tiny fishing boats that share the canal’s waterway dwarfed by giant container ships – the plucky fishermen courageously refuse to yield to the massive vessels they sail beside.

Having been controlled by Arabic, Venetian and Ottoman empires over the years – it’s no surprise that Heraklion is a diverse patchwork of exotic cultures and historical treasures. Celebrated as the birthplace of the Spanish Renaissance artist, El Greco, you can visit to explore the storied ruins of the Minoan empire’s capital, and unearth the rich cultural treasures that Crete’s bustling modern capital has to offer.

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It may not be the prettiest place in Crete but Heraklion’s patchwork of history bustling activity and cultural intrigue makes it the perfect change of pace. This is certainly no sleepy island fishing village and Greece’s fifth-largest city is adorned with a rich collection of quality museums ancient ruins from antiquity and a lively culture of its own. A refreshing shift-up from the many quaint beach towns and fishing villages you’ll encounter in the Greek islands Heraklion – also known as Iraklio – has great shopping extraordinary history and is the ideal base for ventures to the archaeological treasures of Crete. Traded by the Arabic Venetian and Ottoman empires over the years Heraklion is a multi-layered place with fascinating tales to tell. The city’s impressive Venetian fortress which waits over the gently rolling waves of the gleaming Mediterranean welcomes you ashore. The sun-roasted earth outside the city hides treasures from the realms of history including the Bronze Age remnants of Europe’s oldest city Knossos. A visit to the fantastic Archaeological Museum of Heraklion ties all of this history together and exhibits relics from the civilisations and eras of Crete’s past. Elsewhere Daidalou’s pedestrianised paving is a charming stroll through Heraklion’s shops with streets branching off to café-lined plazas and twinkling fountains. Stop to try local food – like fresh feta and olive sprinkled dakos mezze – all washed down with a sample of local raki brandy.

It’s no wonder that all roads lead to the fascinating and maddening metropolis of Athens. Lift your eyes 200 feet above the city to the Parthenon, its honey-color marble columns rising from a massive limestone base, and you behold architectural perfection that has not been surpassed in 2,500 years. But, today, this shrine of classical form dominates a 21st-century boomtown. To experience Athens—Athína in Greek—fully is to understand the essence of Greece: ancient monuments surviving in a sea of cement, startling beauty amid the squalor, tradition juxtaposed with modernity. Locals depend on humor and flexibility to deal with the chaos; you should do the same. The rewards are immense. Although Athens covers a huge area, the major landmarks of the ancient Greek, Roman, and Byzantine periods are close to the modern city center. You can easily walk from the Acropolis to many other key sites, taking time to browse in shops and relax in cafés and tavernas along the way. From many quarters of the city you can glimpse “the glory that was Greece” in the form of the Acropolis looming above the horizon, but only by actually climbing that rocky precipice can you feel the impact of the ancient settlement. The Acropolis and Filopappou, two craggy hills sitting side by side; the ancient Agora (marketplace); and Kerameikos, the first cemetery, form the core of ancient and Roman Athens. Along the Unification of Archaeological Sites promenade, you can follow stone-paved, tree-lined walkways from site to site, undisturbed by traffic. Cars have also been banned or reduced in other streets in the historical center. In the National Archaeological Museum, vast numbers of artifacts illustrate the many millennia of Greek civilization; smaller museums such as the Goulandris Museum of Cycladic Art Museum and the Byzantine and Christian Museum illuminate the history of particular regions or periods. Athens may seem like one huge city, but it is really a conglomeration of neighborhoods with distinctive characters. The Eastern influences that prevailed during the 400-year rule of the Ottoman Empire are still evident in Monastiraki, the bazaar area near the foot of the Acropolis. On the northern slope of the Acropolis, stroll through Plaka (if possible by moonlight), an area of tranquil streets lined with renovated mansions, to get the flavor of the 19th-century’s gracious lifestyle. The narrow lanes of Anafiotika, a section of Plaka, thread past tiny churches and small, color-washed houses with wooden upper stories, recalling a Cycladic island village. In this maze of winding streets, vestiges of the older city are everywhere: crumbling stairways lined with festive tavernas; dank cellars filled with wine vats; occasionally a court or diminutive garden, enclosed within high walls and filled with magnolia trees and the flaming trumpet-shaped flowers of hibiscus bushes. Formerly run-down old quarters, such as Thission, Gazi and Psirri, popular nightlife areas filled with bars and mezedopoleia (similar to tapas bars), are now in the process of gentrification, although they still retain much of their original charm, as does the colorful produce and meat market on Athinas. The area around Syntagma Square, the tourist hub, and Omonia Square, the commercial heart of the city about 1 km (½ mi) northwest, is distinctly European, having been designed by the court architects of King Otho, a Bavarian, in the 19th century. The chic shops and bistros of ritzy Kolonaki nestle at the foot of Mt. Lycabettus, Athens’s highest hill (909 feet). Each of Athens’s outlying suburbs has a distinctive character: in the north is wealthy, tree-lined Kifissia, once a summer resort for aristocratic Athenians, and in the south and southeast lie Glyfada, Voula, and Vouliagmeni, with their sandy beaches, seaside bars, and lively summer nightlife. Just beyond the city’s southern fringes is Piraeus, a bustling port city of waterside fish tavernas and Saronic Gulf views.

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A city of legend, civilisation and enduring culture, Athens is a majestic and magical urban sprawl. Extraordinary elegance and grace combine with grit and graft in Greece’s capital, where highways encase ruins from antiquity, and gleaming museums and galleries stand beside concrete sprayed with edgy street art. These contrasts enhance and elevate the wonders of this 2,500-year-old city, however, which can count notable contributions to philosophy, drama and democracy, among its global legacy. Piraeus’ giant port and naval base welcome you to the edge of the Athens’ urban area. From there it’s a simple jaunt to the centre. The majestic ancient citadel of the Acropolis dominates an elevated platform and is a constant presence as you explore the city. The wonderful remains of the columned temple of the Parthenon – which date back to the 5th century BC – stand here, representing the pinnacle of classical architecture. The nearby Acropolis Museum adds context to your visit and frames the broad views from its giant glass windows. Or rise up Mount Lycabettus, to be rewarded with perhaps Athens’ best panorama of the Acropolis sitting high over the city on its grand stage. See the marble horseshoe of the Old Olympic Stadium, where the first modern Olympics were held in 1896, for more of the city’s enduring legacy. Elsewhere, golden beaches and temples stretch out along the coastline, should you wish to explore a little further afield. Coffee is an art form to the Greeks, and it’s an unwritten rule that coffee time must never be rushed. So prepare to settle down for a couple of hours and lose yourself in a good chat. Feeling hungry – try traditional souvlaki made with sauces handed from generation to generation.