Portsmouth to Edinburgh

For many visitors Tresco is the most attractive of the Isles of Scilly. This is especially due to its Abbey Garden, which is home to thousands of exotic plant species from around 80 different countries. Plant collector Augustus Smith began the gardens in the 1830s on the site of an old Benedictine Abbey by channelling the weather up and over a network of walled enclosures built around the Priory ruins. He had three terraces carved from the rocky south slope and maximised Tresco’s mild Gulf Stream climate. Even in mid-winter there still are hundreds of plants flowering here. Another surprising attraction at the Abbey Garden is the collection of figureheads from ships that wrecked among the Isles of Scilly.

Day itinerary:

For many visitors Tresco is the most attractive of the Isles of Scilly. This is especially due to its Abbey Garden which is home to thousands of exotic plant species from around 80 different countries. Plant collector Augustus Smith began the gardens in the 1830s on the site of an old Benedictine Abbey by channelling the weather up and over a network of walled enclosures built around the Priory ruins. He had three terraces carved from the rocky south slope and maximised Tresco’s mild Gulf Stream climate. Even in mid-winter there still are hundreds of plants flowering here. Another surprising attraction at the Abbey Garden is the collection of figureheads from ships that wrecked among the Isles of Scilly.

The magnificent Skellig Islands lie 8 miles (12 km) off the coast of Portmagee in South West Kerry. Rising majestically from the sea, Skellig Michael towers 714ft. (218 metres) above sea level. On the summit of this awe-inspiring rock you will find a remarkably well preserved sixth century monastic settlement now designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Small Skellig is equally renowned in matters of ornithology as the home of some 27,000 pairs of gannets – the second largest colony of such seabirds in the world. The final scene of Star Wars: The Force Awakens was shot on Skellig in July 2014, with additional filming taking place there in September 2015. The remains of the Skellig Michael monastery appear in the film, representing an ancient Jedi temple. From any angle, or from any vantage point on the nearby Ring of Kerry, they are spectacular pinnacles, which have magnetised viewers throughout all history – and beyond.

Day itinerary:

If you think that the Skellig Islands look familiar, that’s because they are. The Skelling Michal towers set the scene in episodes seven and eight of the Stars Wars franchise, and local tourism has been feeling the force ever since.Aside from being in a galaxy far, far, away, the magnificent the Skellig Michael towers have been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1996. The two Islands were (Great Skellig and Little Skellig) were part of a Gaelic Christian Monastic settlement from the 6th to the 12th century and the towers on Skellig Michael (Great Skellig) are a “unique example of an early religious settlement” (as well as being a final resting place for Jedis). The towers are surely the main attraction of the area and are simply fascinating. Built in a beehive shape to protect against the harsh elements, they use local stone and no mortar. Today, some 1,400 years later, they are still practically intact. There is also a graveyard on the island. Although be prepared for some walking; there are 618 steps winding up to the stone summit, which can get slippery in bad weather. However, like most things that require effort, you will be rewarded once you reach the top. The breathtaking views and photo opportunities are well worth it!Little Skelling is equally as important for birders too; the island is home to almost 30,000 pairs of gannets, the second largest colony of seabirds in the world. Guillemots, Puffins, Manx Shearwaters and Storm Petrels also nest on the island, making up the “Skellig Big Five”.

Kilronan is the principal town on the island of Inismore (Inis Mór) in the Aran Islands located in Galway Bay, and is one of them most picturesque spots in Ireland. Once for the sole purpose as a fishing port for the Aran fisherman, today it is the main port for the ferry companies and with its white sandy beach it has a wide selection of first class restaurants serving seafood, and traditional Irish bars, buskers, and accommodation it is a splendid spot to people watch and a base yourself before exploring the island. One of the island’s most famous attractions is Dun Aengus. Dun Aengus is a fort situated on the edge of a cliff at a height of 100 meters overlooking the Atlantic on the Aran Islands, Inishmore. It consists of a series of concentric circular walls, the innermost; the citadel encloses an area approximately 50 meters in diameter with 4m thick walls of stone. These walls have been rebuilt to a height of 6m and have wall walks, chambers, and flights of stairs as well. The main industries in Kilronan are fishing and tourism. School children also visit to improve their Irish at summer schools. Kilronan has a population of approx. 300 people.

Day itinerary:

If you have ever wanted to imbibe in the Celtic legends of your past, then Kilronan is the answer to your prayers. Situated on the isle of Inishmore in the Aran Islands in County Galway, Cill Rónáin – the official Gaelic spelling – is all about history, spirituality and the kind of rejuvenation that can only be found on Irish soil.The first thing you should know about the Aran Isles is that they are exceptionally beautiful. National Geographic called them “one of the world’s top island destinations” and they are universally recognised as being the “islands of saints and scholars”. Windswept moors and craggy cliffs akin to a Victorian novel flank rolling seas that are Dantesque in their raw power. This is where nature comes home to roost (not to mention the 60,000 seabirds that call the islands their home). Inishmore (Inis Mor) is the biggest island of the archipelago, and as such has the most interesting Celtic history.Over 50 Celtic, Christian and pre-Christian sites are on Inishmore alone (with others on the other two islands that make up the rest of the archipelago). The most important of these site is perhaps the prehistoric fort of Dún Aonghasa, “the most magnificent barbaric monument extant in Europe”. Perched precariously on a 100-metre-high cliff, the fort dates back 3,000 years and is one of Ireland’s most ancient and sacred sites. Little is known of the history of Dún Aonghasa, not who Dún Aonghasa may have been, but a placing so close to the sea edge suggests ritualistic significance.

Killybegs The days start early in Killybegs, as this quiet fishing town rumbles to life, and ships with red and blue paint peeling from their hulls quietly depart, ready for a morning’s hard work at sea. Located in a scenic part of County Donegal, Killybegs is Ireland’s fishing capital, and the salty breeze and pretty streets serve as a revitalising medicine for visitors. The town is also your gateway to some of the country’s most majestic coastal scenery, which is dotted with flashing white lighthouses, keeping watch over invigorating seascapes. Killybegs enjoys a privileged position on the coast of north west of Ireland, close to the spectacular Slieve League – a titanic mountain, which explodes upwards from frothing ocean. Walk as close as you dare to the coastline’s sheer drops, or admire the folding cliffs from the best vantage point, down on the water.

Day itinerary:

An all-encompassing, all-Irish, genuine warm welcome awaits those who visit Killybegs. Set in the Republic of Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way, Killibegs is a hidden gem of a town that is often overshadowed by Dublin and Galway. But, as the privileged position on the north west coast proves, Killibegs is worth discovering.Be prepared to be overwhelmed by the beauty of the area. The spectacular Slieve League Cliffs, around 45-minutes through the rolling Donegal countryside, are said to be much more dramatic than the Cliffs of Mohr, so those who want to see some of Mother Nature’s finest work will want to head straight for here. At a height of approximately 1,968 feet (about 600 metres) above sea level, the Cliffs are believed to be Europe’s highest sea cliffs, and boast an unspoilt natural landscape. Admire the views from either above, looking down on the rolling waters beyond, or from below, gazing up at the folding cliffs towering before you. Don’t forget your camera!A stroll through Killybegs is rewarding in a tranquil way. The quiet fishing village is lulled by the salty sea breeze and the streets are pretty in a way that only authentic fishing villages can be. The image of soft light bouncing off the harbour walls, reflecting on the waters is something that is truly lovely and will not be forgotten in a hurry. The little town centre is well worth a visit, and can take all day if you get chatting to a local. Cosy little pubs, white sandy beaches and a rich, local history bring up the rear.

Nestled behind lofty city walls, Londonderry is a destination of culture, which boasts an increasingly envied reputation. This Northern Irish city is still riding on the momentum of a fantastic 2013, when it was named as UK City of Culture, and singled out as one of Lonely Planet’s top 5 destinations to visit. The wonderfully preserved city walls are perhaps Londonderry’s most treasured charm, and they encircle 1,450 years of history, and are over 400 years old. The walls came to the fore of the city’s history during the Siege of Derry, back in 1688 – when King James’s forces attacked, causing mass starvation and suffering over 105 days of stalemate. It takes approximately an hour to wander the entire circuit of the walls, and see their seven gates, and you’ll absorb a feast of information along the way. View the mighty cannons that boomed during the siege, or stop into one of the plentiful cafes, should you need a little refreshment before continuing your journey. St. Columb’s Cathedral, which dates back to 1633, towers over the walled city, and is one of the city’s most significant historic sites. Its dreamy spire contains a set of bells that have peeled out melodies here since 1638, making them Ireland’s oldest.

Day itinerary:

Nestled behind lofty city walls, Londonderry is a destination of culture, which boasts an increasingly envied reputation. This Northern Irish city is still riding on the momentum of a fantastic 2013, when it was named as UK City of Culture, and singled out as one of Lonely Planet’s top 5 destinations to visit. The wonderfully preserved city walls are perhaps Londonderry’s most treasured charm, and they encircle 1,450 years of history, and are over 400 years old.The walls came to the fore of the city’s history during the Siege of Derry, back in 1688 – when King James’s forces attacked, causing mass starvation and suffering over 105 days of stalemate. It takes approximately an hour to wander the entire circuit of the walls, and see their seven gates, and you’ll absorb a feast of information along the way. View the mighty cannons that boomed during the siege, or stop into one of the plentiful cafes, should you need a little refreshment before continuing your journey. St. Columb’s Cathedral, which dates back to 1633, towers over the walled city, and is one of the city’s most significant historic sites. Its dreamy spire contains a set of bells that have peeled out melodies here since 1638, making them Ireland’s oldest.

With a population of 120 residents, Iona is Located off the Southwest of Mull. The island is 3 miles long and 1.5 miles wide but draws in thousands of visitors each year due to its natural beauty and historical interest. Saint Columba and his fellow monks landed here in 563. This beautiful stretch of coastline brings out the true beauty of Iona facing onto the Gulf Stream that gives the island its mild climate. Located to the south of the road lies Sìthean Mòr (Large fairy hill) and alternatively known as the Hill of Angels, this is said to have been the setting for many rituals and traditions dating far back in history. This wonderful highlight, Iona Abbey was founded by Saint Columba in 563 and is said to have survived many Viking attacks. Although little remains of the monastic buildings of this period, the magnificent Abbey is the main attraction.

Day itinerary:

If tiny islands that resonate with peace and tranquillity are your idea of travel heaven, then welcome to Iona. Almost 200 miles east of Edinburgh, set in Scotland’s Inner Hebrides, this magical island has a spiritual reputation that precedes it. And luckily, more than lives up to.The island is miniscule. Just three miles long and only one and a half miles wide, this is not a place that hums with urban attractions. 120 people call Iona home (this number rises significantly if the gull, tern and Kittiwake population is added), although residential numbers do go up (to a whopping 175) in summer. The beautiful coastline is lapped by the gulf stream and gives the island a warm climate with sandy beaches that look more Mediterranean than Scottish! Add to that a green field landscape that is just beautiful, and you’ll find that Iona is a place that stays with you long after you leave.Iona’s main attraction is of course its abbey. Built in 563 by Saint Columbia and his monks, the abbey is the reason why Iona is called the cradle of Christianity. Not only is the abbey (today an ecumenical church) one of the best – if not the best – example of ecclesiastical architecture dating from the Middle Ages, but it also serves as an important site of spiritual pilgrimage. St. Martin’s Cross, a 9th century Celtic cross that stands outside the abbey, is considered as the finest example of Celtic crosses in the British Isles. Rèilig Odhrain, or the cemetery, allegedly contains the remains of many Scottish kings.

The stunning Isle of Lunga is the largest island in the Treshnish archipelago. With volcanic origin the isle was populated until the 19th Century, and remains of black houses can be seen around this magnificent coastal jewel. Abundant plant life and exotic birdlife are now the main inhabitants of the area. Fortunate visitors view the magnificent array of birds, especially the great puffins that breed on the islands plateau. One can sit within just a few feet away without disturbing the avian ambassador’s peace. The 81 hectare island is home to many rare and endangered plants such as, primroses and orchids. Views over the landscape and across the ocean can be seen from the 300 foot high cliffs.

Day itinerary:

The stunning Isle of Lunga is the largest island in the Treshnish archipelago. With volcanic origin the isle was populated until the 19th Century and remains of black houses can be seen around this magnificent coastal jewel. Abundant plant life and exotic birdlife are now the main inhabitants of the area. Fortunate visitors view the magnificent array of birds especially the great puffins that breed on the islands plateau. One can sit within just a few feet away without disturbing the avian ambassador’s peace. The 81 hectare island is home to many rare and endangered plants such as primroses and orchids. Views over the landscape and across the ocean can be seen from the 300 foot high cliffs.

St Kilda is a remarkable uninhabited archipelago some 40 nautical miles beyond the Outer Hebrides. The stunning cliffs and sea stacks are home to the most important seabird breeding colony in northwest Europe. St Kilda is one of the few places in the world to have received dual World Heritage status from UNESCO in recognition of its Natural Heritage and cultural significance. Village Bay on the island of Hirta once supported a population of over 200, but the last islanders left in the 1930s. Recent restoration work on the village by the National Trust for Scotland offers a marvellous link with the past. One of the caretakers acts as shopkeeper and postmaster for any visitors who might like to send a postcard home from St. Kilda.

Day itinerary:

Gloriously remote, St. Kilda is an archipelago 50 miles off the Isle of Harris. Although the four islands are uninhabited by humans, thousands of seas birds call these craggy cliffs home, clinging to the sheer faces as if by magic. Not only is St. Kilda home to the UK’s largest colony of Atlantic Puffin (almost 1 million), but also the world largest colony Gannets nests on Boreray island and its sea stacks. The islands also home decedents of the world’s original Soay sheep as well as having a breed of eponymously named mice. The extremely rare St. Kilda wren unsurprisingly hails from St. Kilda, so birders should visit with notebook, binoculars and camera to hand.While endemic animal species is rife on the island, St. Kilda has not been peopled since 1930 after the last inhabitants voted that human life was unsustainable. However, permanent habitation had been possible in the Medieval Ages, and a vast National Trust for Scotland project to restore the dwellings is currently being undertaken. The islands even enjoyed a status as being an ideal holiday destination in the 19th century. Today, the only humans living on the islands are passionate history, science and conservation scholars. One of the caretakers even acts as shopkeeper and postmaster for any visitors who might like to send a postcard home from St. Kilda.It should be noted that St. Kilda is the UKs only (and just one of 39 in the world) dual World Heritage status from UNESCO in recognition of its Natural Heritage and cultural significance.

Day itinerary:

As an isolated island of the remote St Kilda Group, Boreray island is one of the most far flung and weather impacted islands of the North East Atlantic. Imagine trying to live here during stormy weather. Landing requires jumping or swimming ashore; and yet the island has been lived on or visited from Neolithic times. Collecting seabirds and their eggs, and storing them for winter, may have been even more important than raising sheep. Boreray Sheep are the rarest breed of sheep in Britain. They evolved from short-tailed sheep brought from the Scottish mainland but have been isolated long enough to have evolved into a distinctive small and horned breed. Only found on Boreray Island, they remained as a wild flock when the last people left the St Kilda Islands in 1930. The Souy are a separate and different breed of sheep found on the other St Kilda Islands. Look out for the Boreray Sheep grazing on the slopes of hilly Boreray Island. Seabirds thrive on Boreray and its two attendant rocks stacks, raising new chicks each summer. Northern Gannets glide overhead as they attempt difficult landings at nest sites. Seeing gannets plunge from a great height into the sea is an exciting way to understand the effort required to feed themselves and chicks. Northern Fulmers nest on the volcanic rock cliffs and Atlantic Puffins fly in and out of burrow-strewn slopes. Boreray is part of the St Kilda World Heritage Site, a rare example of a site recognised for both its outstanding natural and cultural values.

Day itinerary:

Cliffs of tall hexagonal columns create a sensational landscape at the Shiant Islands, especially when viewed from the sea. The cliffs of six-sided rock columns look like the cross-section of an enormous honeycomb. The rock formations were formed when molten volcanic magma cooled very slowly underground. Millions of years of erosion has exposed the six-sided columns to the sea, and to us. The tallest of these formations is 120 metres (390 feet) high. During spring and summer, flights of seabirds near the Shiant Islands catch the eye. Many long-winged seabirds wheel and soar gracefully. Others are more shaped for underwater swimming and fly in direct lines, beating stubby wings to resemble flying potatoes. Some birds nest in burrows while others, like Black-legged Kittiwakes, nest on cliffs. Rather than build nests, guillemots lay eggs on bare rock ledges. The pointed shape of the eggs ensures they roll in a tight circle, not off the ledge to the sea below. The Shiant Islands are part of the Outer Hebrides and located between the Isles of Lewis and Skye. Historically, they have supported families of sheep grazers who could tolerate a lonely island outpost. The Shiants were known as the last place in Britain where the Black Rat occurred in substantial numbers. Originally introduced to Britain from Asia in Roman times these rodents caused problems, eating eggs and chicks of seabirds. A successful eradication program eliminated the rats in 2016, giving the seabird colonies well-earned peace.

Day itinerary:

Rise to the heights of the craggy outcrop of Arthur’s Seat, the greatest of the seven mountains surrounding Edinburgh, to survey one of the world’s most magical cities from a truly privileged outlook. Few cities can genuinely claim to have it all, but Edinburgh may be one, with its immense artistry, gorgeous architecture and deep contribution to high culture. A cultural, creative and curious place it may be, but the locals are anything but superior, and many a friendly chat and ribbing takes place in the nooks of its flower-draped pubs. Open parks, and the majestic Royal Botanic Gardens – open since 1670 – offer more colour among the wash of pretty Georgian and brick buildings. With such architectural and artistic wealth, it’s no surprise that Edinburgh continues to be a city of literature, where the written word is revered above all else. The looming memorial dedicated to Sir Walter Scott symbolises this and is one of the world’s largest monuments dedicated to a writer. The Writers’ Museum is dedicated to the craft of other Scottish wordsmiths, such as Sir Robert Burns and Robert Louis Stevenson. The old town is a quaint and enchanting place, and Edinburgh’s storied literary heritage continues to grow, with J.K. Rowling formulating Harry Potter’s magical world in the cute cafes here. Wander the bustling, gas-lamp-lit cobbled streets, and sink into a fairy-tale world of your own, before ascending to Edinburgh Castle – which rises majestically above the city on its volcanic plug perch.