Shadow2 – 20260327 – 12 days

Livorno is a gritty city with a long and interesting history. In the early Middle Ages it alternately belonged to Pisa and Genoa. In 1421 Florence, seeking access to the sea, bought it. Cosimo I (1519–74) started construction of the harbor in 1571, putting Livorno on the map. After Ferdinando I de’ Medici (1549–1609) proclaimed Livorno a free city, it became a haven for people suffering from religious persecution; Roman Catholics from England and Jews and Moors from Spain and Portugal, among others, settled here. The Quattro Mori (Four Moors), also known as the Monument to Ferdinando I, commemorates this. (The statue of Ferdinando I dates from 1595, the bronze Moors by Pietro Tacca from the 1620s.)In the following centuries, and particularly in the 18th, Livorno boomed as a port. In the 19th century the town drew a host of famous Britons passing through on their grand tours. Its prominence continued up to World War II, when it was heavily bombed. Much of the town’s architecture, therefore, postdates the war, and it’s somewhat difficult to imagine what it might have looked like before. Livorno has recovered from the war, however, as it’s become a huge point of departure for container ships, as well as the only spot in Tuscany for cruise ships to dock for the day.Most of Livorno’s artistic treasures date from the 17th century and aren’t all that interesting unless you dote on obscure baroque artists. Livorno’s most famous native artist, Amedeo Modigliani (1884–1920), was of much more recent vintage. Sadly, there’s no notable work by him in his hometown.There may not be much in the way of art, but it’s still worth strolling around the city. The Mercato Nuovo, which has been around since 1894, sells all sorts of fruits, vegetables, grains, meat, and fish. Outdoor markets nearby are also chock-full of local color. The presence of Camp Darby, an American military base just outside town, accounts for the availability of many American products.If you have time, Livorno is worth a stop for lunch or dinner at the very least.

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There are few more elegant places to salute the sunset than Terrazza Mascagni, Livorno’s refined chessboard piazza. A historic port, and a beachy gateway to Tuscany, Livorno welcomes you ashore to explore this enchanted Italian region’s sun-soaked beauty, rich flavours and world-renowned fine art. Stay in Livorno to explore ‘Piccolo Venezia’, or ‘Little Venice’ – a quarter of the town that’s laced with canals, little marble bridges and plenty of tempting eateries. With its bustling market, fortresses and iconic waterfront, there’s plenty to keep you busy here, but most will be tempted to venture inland to explore more of Tuscany’s many charms and artistic wonders. Test your nose, as you breathe in the subtleties of Tuscany’s vineyard-draped scenery, and visit wineries showcasing the best of the renowned flavours of the Bolgheri wine-growing area. Or head out to Prato, where you’ll find tightly-woven textile history. Pisa’s showpiece tower is within reach, as is Florence’s city of immense and imaginative renaissance beauty. Admire the delicate carving of Michelangelo’s masterpiece, the David statue, and note the provocative stance as he casts a dismissive glance towards Rome. Stand before the city’s majestic black and white cathedral – the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore – with its colossal brick dome. The view down over Florence’s river and grand dome from Piazzale Michelangelo, meanwhile, is one of Italy’s finest. However you choose to spend your time in Tuscany, you’ll discover an artistic region, filled with beauty designed to appeal to every sense.

Livorno is a gritty city with a long and interesting history. In the early Middle Ages it alternately belonged to Pisa and Genoa. In 1421 Florence, seeking access to the sea, bought it. Cosimo I (1519–74) started construction of the harbor in 1571, putting Livorno on the map. After Ferdinando I de’ Medici (1549–1609) proclaimed Livorno a free city, it became a haven for people suffering from religious persecution; Roman Catholics from England and Jews and Moors from Spain and Portugal, among others, settled here. The Quattro Mori (Four Moors), also known as the Monument to Ferdinando I, commemorates this. (The statue of Ferdinando I dates from 1595, the bronze Moors by Pietro Tacca from the 1620s.)In the following centuries, and particularly in the 18th, Livorno boomed as a port. In the 19th century the town drew a host of famous Britons passing through on their grand tours. Its prominence continued up to World War II, when it was heavily bombed. Much of the town’s architecture, therefore, postdates the war, and it’s somewhat difficult to imagine what it might have looked like before. Livorno has recovered from the war, however, as it’s become a huge point of departure for container ships, as well as the only spot in Tuscany for cruise ships to dock for the day.Most of Livorno’s artistic treasures date from the 17th century and aren’t all that interesting unless you dote on obscure baroque artists. Livorno’s most famous native artist, Amedeo Modigliani (1884–1920), was of much more recent vintage. Sadly, there’s no notable work by him in his hometown.There may not be much in the way of art, but it’s still worth strolling around the city. The Mercato Nuovo, which has been around since 1894, sells all sorts of fruits, vegetables, grains, meat, and fish. Outdoor markets nearby are also chock-full of local color. The presence of Camp Darby, an American military base just outside town, accounts for the availability of many American products.If you have time, Livorno is worth a stop for lunch or dinner at the very least.

Day itinerary:

There are few more elegant places to salute the sunset than Terrazza Mascagni, Livorno’s refined chessboard piazza. A historic port, and a beachy gateway to Tuscany, Livorno welcomes you ashore to explore this enchanted Italian region’s sun-soaked beauty, rich flavours and world-renowned fine art. Stay in Livorno to explore ‘Piccolo Venezia’, or ‘Little Venice’ – a quarter of the town that’s laced with canals, little marble bridges and plenty of tempting eateries. With its bustling market, fortresses and iconic waterfront, there’s plenty to keep you busy here, but most will be tempted to venture inland to explore more of Tuscany’s many charms and artistic wonders. Test your nose, as you breathe in the subtleties of Tuscany’s vineyard-draped scenery, and visit wineries showcasing the best of the renowned flavours of the Bolgheri wine-growing area. Or head out to Prato, where you’ll find tightly-woven textile history. Pisa’s showpiece tower is within reach, as is Florence’s city of immense and imaginative renaissance beauty. Admire the delicate carving of Michelangelo’s masterpiece, the David statue, and note the provocative stance as he casts a dismissive glance towards Rome. Stand before the city’s majestic black and white cathedral – the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore – with its colossal brick dome. The view down over Florence’s river and grand dome from Piazzale Michelangelo, meanwhile, is one of Italy’s finest. However you choose to spend your time in Tuscany, you’ll discover an artistic region, filled with beauty designed to appeal to every sense.

Day itinerary:

A summer escape for Rome’s historic elite the stacked waterfront of Porto Santo Stefano is a secluded taste of idyllic southern Tuscany. Physically closer to Rome than Florence the city is strung to Italy’s western coast by two sandy harnesses and sits on the unqiue peninsula of Monte Argentario – which was once an island. Flamboyant pink flamingos and herons stroll through the encased lagoon while Porto Santo Stefano’s waterfront hums with clinking cafes and strolling visitors. The luxury yachts in the harbour show that Porto Santo Stefano has lost none of its luxury appeals and with beaches wild hikes and waterfront beauty it continues to lure visitors to this secluded escape. Known for its fishing and cuisine – which is based around heavy use of the Tyrrhenian Sea’s juicy bounty. Stroll to Piazza dei Rioni for a dripping lemon gelato or wander the streets noticing the lingering World War II damage – the city was heavily bombed during the conflict. Fortunately the historic star-shaped Spanish fort was spared and it still watches out resolutely over the waters. Rugged coastline falls to secluded beaches with a wilder unkempt charm. Sail the coves – seeing cascading olive groves – or island-hop to Giglio and Giannuti which lie 12 miles from shore and can be seen from the monastery topped Argentario mountain. On the other side of the promontory you’ll find Porto Ercole – where the lifeless body of the Old Master Caravaggio was discovered.

Italy’s vibrant capital lives in the present, but no other city on earth evokes its past so powerfully. For over 2,500 years, emperors, popes, artists, and common citizens have left their mark here. Archaeological remains from ancient Rome, art-stuffed churches, and the treasures of Vatican City vie for your attention, but Rome is also a wonderful place to practice the Italian-perfected il dolce far niente, the sweet art of idleness. Your most memorable experiences may include sitting at a caffè in the Campo de’ Fiori or strolling in a beguiling piazza.

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All roads lead to Rome, and with good reason – this city is one of the world’s most thrilling, offering unmatched history along every street. An evocative, inspiring and utterly artistic capital of unrivalled cultural impact, Rome is a city of back-to-back landmarks, which will take you on an exhilarating journey through the ages. This may be one of the world’s oldest cities, but it’s well and truly lived in. The ruins are punctuated with murmuring cafes, and the outdoor seating of restaurants sprawls out across piazzas, enticing you to sample tangles of creamy pasta and crispy pizzas. Rome’s incredible Roman Forum is littered with the ruins of its ancient administrations, which have stood firm for 2,000 years, since the times when the area was the centre of the Western world. Few sites are more simultaneously beautiful and haunting than that of the storied Colosseum, which looms deep into Rome’s rich blue sky. Take a tour to learn details of the grisly goings-on within. The best way to experience Rome is to wander its streets, gelato in hand. There is a lot to see here – whether it’s the domed spectacle of the Pantheon, or the elaborate flowing waters and artistry of the Trevi Fountain. Vatican City is an astonishing, colossal display of Catholic grandeur, while the Spanish Steps – crowned by the Trinità dei Monti church – offer a beautiful spot to gather and soak up the lively atmosphere of this humming city. With so much on the to-do list, you’ll relish the breaks you take, enjoying simple pleasures like a strong espresso, or fresh pasta with tomato sauce and ripped basil.

Malta’s capital, the minicity of Valletta, has ornate palaces and museums protected by massive fortifications of honey-color limestone. Houses along the narrow streets have overhanging wooden balconies for people-watching from indoors. Generations ago they gave housebound women a window on the world of the street. The main entrance to town is through the City Gate (where all bus routes end), which leads onto Triq Repubblika (Republic Street), the spine of the grid-pattern city and the main shopping street. Triq Mercante (Merchant Street) parallels Repubblika to the east and is also good for strolling. From these two streets, cross streets descend toward the water; some are stepped. Valletta’s compactness makes it ideal to explore on foot. City Gate and the upper part of Valletta are experiencing vast redevelopment that includes a new Parliament Building and open-air performance venue. The complex, completed mid-2013, has numerous pedestrian detours in place along with building noise and dust. Before setting out along Republic Street, stop at the tourist information office on Merchant Street for maps and brochures.

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Perched high on the imposing Sciberras Peninsula, Valletta immediately presents its massive, protective walls and vertical bastions to visitors arriving by sea. Rising to 47 metres in places, the fortifications protect lavish palaces, grand domes and illustrious gardens. Built by the Knights of St John on the narrow peninsular, Valletta is a compact, richly historical treasure trove of Baroque wonders. Ascend to reach the restful, flower-filled Upper Barrakka Gardens, where cannons fire and boom in salute at noon each day, sending echoing cracks of noise out across the waves below. Recognised as 2018’s European Capital of Culture, Valletta is a fascinating and dense haven of history and intrigue. A busy, bustling capital, the breathtaking St John’s Cathedral – commissioned in 1572 – is almost concealed among its narrow streets. The relatively modest exterior is counterpointed by a staggeringly opulent, gold-leaf bathed interior, containing a Caravaggio masterpiece – the shadowy vision of the Beheading of St John. Cinematic and magnificent, Valletta has served as a filming location for Game of Thrones – but real epic history abounds on this rocky isle too. From the prehistoric and megalithic sites of the Hypogeum of Paola and Tarxien, to the fascinating War Museum at Fort St Elmo. Mdina also waits nearby, and the former medieval capital is a striking contrast to the island’s main city. Cars are barred from its streets, and it offers endlessly atmospheric old-time wanders. With a strategic positioning in the Mediterranean, Malta is a jewel that many have wrestled for over the centuries. Independence from Britain was finally achieved in 1964, but the close allegiance remains evident, with English recognised as an official language, cars driving on the left, and red post boxes and telephone gleaming in Malta’s sunshine.

The medieval cliff-hanging town of Taormina is overrun with tourists, yet its natural beauty is still hard to dispute. The view of the sea and Mt. Etna from its jagged cactus-covered cliffs is as close to perfection as a panorama can get—especially on clear days, when the snowcapped volcano’s white puffs of smoke rise against the blue sky. Writers have extolled Taormina’s beauty almost since it was founded in the 6th century BC by Greeks from nearby Naxos; Goethe and D. H. Lawrence were among its well-known enthusiasts. The town’s boutique-lined main streets get old pretty quickly, but the many hiking paths that wind through the beautiful hills surrounding Taormina promise a timeless alternative. A trip up to stunning Castelmola (whether on foot or by car) should also be on your itinerary.

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Hugging a long, sweeping bay, Giardini Naxos welcomes you ashore to some of Sicily’s most scenic and historic sites. Naxos was the first Greek settlement on Sicily, and it is surrounded by remarkable remains and swirling mythology. With a long arc of sun-soaked golden sand, you can kick back by the waves – and cool off with a dip into the sea’s refreshing embrace. Up above the seaside revelry, the spectacular Taormina hillside town perches – containing rich Roman and Greek history.Visit to encounter one of Sicily’s best views, as you look down over the rejuvenating blue of the sea, and the looming backdrop of Mount Etna rising in the distance. The majestic, honey-coloured Greek theatre is a highlight, standing before the distant loom of the volcano.Head towards the puffs of cloud, and wisps of smoke, that gather around the peak of Sicily’s mighty volcano, which is among the most active in Europe. Arrive through vineyards, thriving in this fertile soil, before taking the 1,737-metre incline to the summit of the legendary mountain of fire, across fields of solidified lava flows. Known to the Greeks as the home of the God of Fire, and the one-eyed Cyclops, the mountain continues to amaze and awe with its restless power. Vineyards carpet the scenery – interrupted by occasional cactai and citrus groves – and produce some of Sicily’s most refined flavours. Enjoy a glass of wine on Giardini Naxos’ seafront, and toast your time on these rich Sicilian shores.

Salerno is an Italian city located on the Gulf of Salerno. Famous for being home to the first medical university, Salerno is a great destination for anyone looking for gorgeous sea views filled with sunshine and Italian food.

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Salerno is situated at the northern end of the Gulf of Salerno. The old town, rising up the slopes of the hill on the site of the ancient Salernum, still bears evidence of its great days during the medieval period. It had the oldest medical school in Europe, which flourished from the 11th century until it was closed down by Napoleon’s brother-in-law, Murat, in 1812. Today, Salerno’s main attraction is an imposing Romanesque cathedral, built in 1085 and remodeled in the late 18th century. A flight of steps leads up to an atrium with 28 columns from Paestum and fourteen ancient sarcophagi. The magnificent bronze doors were made in Constantinople in 1099. Inside is the ornate tomb of Margaret of Anjou and the tomb of Pope Gregory VII, who died in Salerno in 1085. In the richly decorated crypt under the alter lie the remains of the Evangelist Matthew, brought here from Paestum.A 45-minute walk from the cathedral leads to a hilltop crowned by the old Lombard Castello, from where extensive views are available. Along the seafront, to the east of the harbor, extends a fine promenade lined with impressive modern buildings. The Corso Giuseppe Garibaldi is the town’s principal traffic artery.Travelers coming to Salerno mainly use the port as a starting point for visits to the Greek temples of Paestum. Other favorite excursions from here are to Pompeii and to visit the popular resort towns of Amalfi and Ravello.

Elba is the Tuscan archipelago’s largest island, but it resembles nearby verdant Corsica more than it does its rocky Italian sisters, thanks to a network of underground springs that keep it lush and green. It’s this combination of semitropical vegetation and dramatic mountain scenery—unusual in the Mediterranean—that has made Elba so prized for so long, and the island’s uniqueness continues to draw boatloads of visitors throughout the warm months. A car is very useful for getting around the island, but public buses stop at most towns several times a day; the tourist office has timetables.

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Offshore in the Tyrrhenian Sea Elba is a mountainous mirage of glowing beaches turquoise waters and craggy coastline. The island capital’s sun-faded pink and yellow buildings stack up over the waterfront offering sweeping views back to the mainland. The harbour’s tiny wooden fishing boats are now dwarfed by the gleaming yachts that visit and Elba invites you to join them dropping in to relish a secluded sun-soaked taste of the island’s good life. Elba is the third biggest Italian island and the protected Tuscan archipelago’s largest with no fewer than 90 miles of gorgeous coastline rolling out for you to explore. Grown from the ruins of the Roman settlement of Fabricia steep fortifications and a scenic natural harbour all add to Portoferraio’s appeals. Bonaparte hung around for just ten months – but the sea panorama from his former residence Villa dei Mulini – which is now a museum – keeps visitors coming back for more. An island of steep inclines which reward with spectacular vistas Elba’s villages cling to precipitous drops while beautiful beaches unravel along its shores and enchanting scenery of chestnut tree woods olive groves and vineyards coat its lands. Take the cable car up to Monte Capanne – which offers more of the island’s trademark views without the need to break a sweat. Settle down to taste the island’s succulent seafood and tuck into juicy grilled sardines and plump octopus – rounded off with a glass of the famous local sweet wine.

One of the most photographed villages along the coast, with a decidedly romantic and affluent aura, Portofino has long been a popular destination for the rich and famous. Once an ancient Roman colony and taken by the Republic of Genoa in 1229, it’s also been ruled by the French, English, Spanish, and Austrians, as well as by marauding bands of 16th-century pirates. Elite British tourists first flocked to the lush harbor in the mid-1800s. Some of Europe’s wealthiest drop anchor in Portofino in summer, but they stay out of sight by day, appearing in the evening after buses and boats have carried off the day-trippers.There’s not actually much to do in Portofino other than stroll around the wee harbor, see the castle, walk to Punta del Capo, browse at the pricey boutiques, and sip a coffee while people-watching. However, weaving through picture-perfect cliffside gardens and gazing at yachts framed by the sapphire Ligurian Sea and the cliffs of Santa Margherita can make for quite a relaxing afternoon. There are also several tame, photo-friendly hikes into the hills to nearby villages.Unless you’re traveling on a deluxe budget, you may want to stay in Camogli or Santa Margherita Ligure rather than at one of Portofino’s few very expensive hotels. Restaurants and cafés are good but also pricey (don’t expect to have a beer here for much under €10).

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Effervescent and exclusive, Portofino rests on a privileged peninsular. Lavish yachts mingle together, seeking out sought-after berths in the harbour, while gelato drips onto the stone-paved streets in this, the most alluring and glamorous town of the Italian Riviera. This section of the Ligurian Coast is a protected area, and home to some of the country’s most picturesque, and jaw-dropping scenery – which is best viewed from the deck of a sailing boat. Crisp white villas roll out across the verdant green hillsides, surrounded by laden vineyards and olive groves. Down in Portofino itself, the buzz of chatter and the clatter of cutlery, provide the soundtrack to busy terrace bars and restaurants, which serve up fine food and delicious sea views. Portofino’s achingly beautiful harbour arcs around the lapping waves, with a warmly-hued waterfront of peach and apricot colours – which also adorns postcards and promotional travel guides of Italy. For the authentic Portofino experience, sail out onto the tranquil waters of the Gulf of Tigullio, to mingle amongst the privileged at play, or settle back in the shade as you take aperitivo on the picturesque waterfront Piazzetta. Here you can sip the famous Ligurian wines, and stave off hunger with focaccia con il formaggio – or platters of fine cheese and hams. Deeper into Portofino, you’ll find artisans crafting their wares and weaving together lace, or you can ascend to viewpoints like the lemon shaded Church of San Giorgio, to look over the pretty jumble from up above. A wander out along the headland to the tapering tip of the peninsular, rewards with the views of Portofino’s iconic white lighthouse beaming out light and welcoming ships to this slice of Riviera heaven.

United with France only since 1860, Nice has its own history and atmosphere, which dates back 230,000 years. It was on Colline du Château (now château-less) and at the Plage des Ponchettes, in front of the Old Town, that the Greeks established a market-port in 350 BC and named it Nikaia, which would become Marseilles’ chief coastal rival. The Romans established themselves a little later on the hills of Cimiez (Cemenelum), already previously occupied by Ligurians and Celts, and quickly overshadowed the waterfront port. After falling to the Saracen invasions, Nice regained power as an independent state, becoming an important port in the early Middle Ages.So cocksure did it become that in 1388, Nice, along with the hill towns behind, effectively seceded from the county of Provence, under Louis d’Anjou, and allied itself with Savoie. Thus began its liaison with the House of Savoy, and through it with Piedmont and Sardinia, it was the Comté de Nice (Nice County). This relationship lasted some 500 years, tinting the culture, architecture, and dialect in rich Italian hues.By the 19th century Nice was flourishing commercially, locked in rivalry with the neighboring shipping port of Genoa. Another source of income: the dawning of tourism, as first the English, then the Russian nobility, discovered its extraordinary climate and superb waterfront position. A parade of fine stone mansions and hotels closed into a nearly solid wall of masonry, separated from the smooth-round rocks of the beach by what was originally named Camin deis Anglés (the English Way), which of course is now the famous Promenade des Anglais. This magnificent crescent, which is seeking UNESCO recognition, is one of the noblest in France. Many of Nice’s most delightful attractions—the Cours Saleya market, the Old Town streets, the Hotel Negresco, and the Palais Masséna—are on or close to this 10-km (6-mile) waterfront, making it the first stop for most visitors, while the redevelopment of Nice’s port, around the other side of the Colline du Château, makes it easier for amblers who want to take in the Genoese architecture or peruse the antiques at the Puces de Nice, now part of the Promenade des 100 Antiquaires, along Quai Papacino. Nice also has the distinction of the “Family Plus” label, with free strollers, play areas, and restaurants with child-friendly activities.

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Nice’s sweeping bend of brilliant-blue seawater – which once tempted the aristocracies of Europe – continues to entice and entrance visitors to these sun-soaked shores. A refined city of airy ocean boulevards grandiose buildings and open spaces fountain-sprinkled parks and colourful floral displays add to the city’s timeless appeal. Nice has lost none of its old-world lustre and there remains something of the divine in the Bay of Angels’ endless sparkling waterfront. The vast open Promenade des Anglais remains Nice’s magnificent crowning glory inviting the city out to jog wander and glide along the Mediterranean’s most spectacular curve of seafront promenade. The crisp clear golden light also continues to make Nice a destination of creative pilgrimage and Matisse Picasso and Renoir are among the many artists to lavish in the city’s eternal beauty. Drag yourself away from the waterfront to discover the old town punctuated with Baroque churches rising and the wafting scents of baking pastries and lavender bundles. Follow the floral odours to Nice’s famous flower market which spills gorgeous colourful displays along Cours Saleya. There’s a strong hint of Italy explained by the fact that Nice only aligned with France in 1860 – following 500 years under the House of Savoy. Walk in Nietzsche’s footsteps and climb up to Colline du Château’s charming green park and cascading waterfalls to relish the views down over the city and sparkling sea expanse.