Southampton to Southampton

The Isle of Portland is a tied island, 6 kilometres long by 2.7 kilometres wide, in the English Channel. The southern tip, Portland Bill lies 8 kilometres south of the resort of Weymouth, forming the southernmost point of the county of Dorset, England. A barrier beach called Chesil Beach joins it to the mainland.

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The tied island of Portland sprawls out attractively into the English Channel linked to the mainland by just the Chesil barrier beach’s thin sliver of sand. Portland forms part of England’s dramatic Jurassic Coast a UNESCO World Heritage Site of limestone cliffs coastal rock formations and beautiful bays. It may be a tiny teardrop of an island but with pirate heritage historic castles and soaring lighthouses there’s a lot to keep you busy as you soak in Dorset’s relentlessly wonderful coastal appeals. Photograph the handsome white and red-banded lighthouse which watches out over the rock-interrupted waves on a breathtakingly photogenic outcrop. Flashing out warnings of a hull-shredding offshore bank the lighthouse marks the southern tip of this island and lurches out five miles towards the Channel Islands. Rock mined from Portland has been used to create some of the most famous buildings in the world including St Paul’s Cathedral and the United Nations’ Building of New York. The stunning natural arch of Durdle Door is close by – looming over a scenic cove it is undoubtedly one of England’s prettiest beaches and most beautiful natural landmarks. A 16th-century Tudor castle stands guard over Portland’s harbour and was one of London 2012’s more unusual Olympic venues hosting sailing events. You can also learn of D-Day history and the role this area played in one of the most important land invasions ever seen at Castletown D-Day Centre.

Best known as the port from which Sir Francis Drake and the port which the Pilgrim Fathers set sail from, Plymouth is awash with history. Walk down its cobbled streets, step back in time and discover the historical landmarks and sites.

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Devon’s largest city is packed with seafaring heritage and quintessential britishness. Tea shops, pubs, a famous gin distillery plus a newly revamp port promenade provide much in the way of gentle entertainment, while those who like to stretch their legs only have to look northwards to the rolling moors.The city is of course most famous for its role in the launching of the Mayflower, as it is from Plymouth that the Pilgrim Fathers left for the New World in 1620 – the original steps may have been lost but a stone plaque allows visitors to stand on the exact spot they left from. The town is peppered with remnants of its historic maritime heritage, across the waters of Plymouth Sound lies fortified Drake’s Island guarding the approaches, while Plymouth Hoe, where Sir Francis Drake was famously playing bowls when he received news of the invading Armada, is just up from the docks. Nearby Royal William Yard, built by John Rennie between 1825-31, boasts the largest collection of Grade 1-listed military buildings in Europe. Plymouth City Museum and Art Gallery contains maritime displays including important Napoleonic ship models.The city’s strategic position on England’s south coast cost it dearly during WWII. From 1940-44 the Luftwaffe basically razed the original city, and many of the original building were destroyed. What was rebuilt is more gritty than pretty, but those who are willing to look beyond the dour city centre will find a very pleasing place surrounded by beautiful English countryside.

Once a northern defense post against Irish raiders, Holyhead later became best known as a ferry port for Ireland. The dockside bustle is not matched by the town, however, which maintains just a small population. Nonetheless, thousands of years of settlement have given Holyhead rich historical ruins to explore, with more in the surrounding hiking friendly landscape.

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Once a major defence point against Irish invaders Holyhead now extends the hand of friendship across the Irish Sea and is a major ferry port connecting the two countries. Discover a scenic and spectacular place whatever the weather – whether the sun’s bouncing off the blotched blue sea or the waves are swelling moodily as rain thrashes down. Set on the windswept coast of North Wales South Stack Lighthouse is a stunningly perched bright white lighthouse which has been casting its gaze out across the water for more than 200 years. A rugged picturesque site to explore you can wander out across the small aluminium bridge to reach the island where it rises. Be warned there’s a steep climb down 400 steps and then a spiral of another 100 up once you’re inside but if you’re up to the physical demands the views are magnificent from the beacon that has guarded these waters for so long. Ellin’s Tower also stands over the crumbling cliffs nearby and this small castellated hideout is adorned with binoculars – perfect for getting a closer look at the crowds of nesting seabirds and puffins who cling to the coastline’s stark cliffs. In Holyhead itself enthusiastic volunteers will relay the region’s seafaring history to you at the compact Maritime Museum or you can explore Breakwater Country Park – another coastal hiking spot that sits below the gentle Holyhead Mountain. Enjoy views of the Irish Sea stretching as far as the Skerries seven miles out to sea and as far as Ireland on clear days.

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Atmospheric cobbled streets, with buskers scraping fiddles and characterful pubs inviting passersby inside, is Dublin in a snapshot. A city of irrepressible energy and lust for life, Ireland’s capital is as welcoming a place as you’ll find. Horse-drawn carriages plod along cobbled centuries-old streets, blending with an easy-going, cosmopolitan outlook. Known for its fun-filled gathering of pubs, any excuse works to enjoy a celebratory toast and chat among good company. Home to perhaps the world’s most famous beer – slurp perfect pourings of thick, dark Guinness – cranked out for the city’s thirsty punters. Learn more of the humble pint’s journey at the Guinness Storehouse. Dublin has come along way since the Vikings established a trading port here, back in the 9th Century. In the time since, the city became the British Empire’s defacto second city, and the Georgian imprint still adds oodles of historic character. Learn of 1916’s Easter Uprising, when the Irish rebelled and established their independence here, as you visit the infamous, haunting Kilmainham Gaol. The uprising’s leaders were tried and executed in these dark confines. Dublin’s St. Patrick’s Cathedral has immense history below its steep spire, which dates back to 1191. There’s rich literary heritage to leaf through too, and the city’s streets were rendered vividly in James Joyce’s classic Ullyses. The Museum of Literature celebrates the full scope of Dublin’s lyrical talents. Trinity College also has a prestigious roll-call of alumni – visit to see the Book of Kells, a beautifully illustrated bible of the medieval era.

Before English and Scottish settlers arrived in the 1600s, Belfast was a tiny village called Béal Feirste (“sandbank ford”) belonging to Ulster’s ancient O’Neill clan. With the advent of the Plantation period (when settlers arrived in the 1600s), Sir Arthur Chichester, from Devon in southwestern England, received the city from the English Crown, and his son was made Earl of Donegall. Huguenots fleeing persecution from France settled near here, bringing their valuable linen-work skills. In the 18th century, Belfast underwent a phenomenal expansion—its population doubled every 10 years, despite an ever-present sectarian divide. Although the Anglican gentry despised the Presbyterian artisans—who, in turn, distrusted the native Catholics—Belfast’s growth continued at a dizzying speed. The city was a great Victorian success story, an industrial boomtown whose prosperity was built on trade, especially linen and shipbuilding. Famously (or infamously), the Titanic was built here, giving Belfast, for a time, the nickname “Titanic Town.” Having laid the foundation stone of the city’s university in 1845, Queen Victoria returned to Belfast in 1849 (she is recalled in the names of buildings, streets, bars, monuments, and other places around the city), and in the same year, the university opened under the name Queen’s College. Nearly 40 years later, in 1888, Victoria granted Belfast its city charter. Today its population is nearly 300,000, tourist numbers have increased, and this dramatically transformed city is enjoying an unparalleled renaissance.This is all a welcome change from the period when news about Belfast meant reports about “the Troubles.” Since the 1994 ceasefire, Northern Ireland’s capital city has benefited from major hotel investment, gentrified quaysides (or strands), a sophisticated new performing arts center, and major initiatives to boost tourism. Although the 1996 bombing of offices at Canary Wharf in London disrupted the 1994 peace agreement, the ceasefire was officially reestablished on July 20, 1997, and this embattled city began its quest for a newfound identity.Since 2008, the city has restored all its major public buildings such as museums, churches, theaters, City Hall, Ulster Hall—and even the glorious Crown Bar—spending millions of pounds on its built heritage. A gaol that at the height of the Troubles held some of the most notorious murderers involved in paramilitary violence is now a major visitor attraction.Belfast’s city center is made up of three roughly contiguous areas that are easy to navigate on foot. From the south end to the north, it’s about an hour’s leisurely walk.

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Reborn as a cool modern city Belfast has successfully left its troubles behind emerging as a hotbed of culture and architecture where the comfort of a cosy pub is never far away. A walk across the Lagan Weir Footbridge brings you to Belfast’s fascinating Titanic District – an area of the city devoted to its rich ship-building heritage. The state-of-the-art Titanic Museum brings the story of the doomed vessel to life and is the largest museum dedicated to the infamously ‘unsinkable’ ship. There’s just enough time to give the 10-metre long Salmon of Knowledge sculpture a quick peck for luck before continuing to explore. A stark barbed wire and graffitied sheet metal barrier marks an abrupt scar through the city’s residential areas. The Peace Line was constructed during the height of the Troubles when Belfast was plagued by sectarian divisions between Protestants and Catholics. Nowadays you can jump in a black taxi tour to see the colourful murals and living history of the walls which stand as a stark reminder of the fragility of peace. After exploring the city’s historic divisions a reminder of Belfast’s uniting creativity can be found at the Metropolitan Arts Centre – a seven-storey tall building which invites light to gloriously cascade inside. The Cathedral Quarter is a cobbled blend of flower-adorned pubs restaurants and theatres and venues where music spills out onto the streets at night and many a pint is cheerily shared.

Trendy stores, a booming cultural life, fascinating architecture, and stylish restaurants reinforce Glasgow’s claim to being Scotland’s most exciting city. After decades of decline, it has experienced an urban renaissance uniquely its own. The city’s grand architecture reflects a prosperous past built on trade and shipbuilding. Today buildings by Charles Rennie Mackintosh hold pride of place along with the Zaha Hadid–designed Riverside Museum.Glasgow (the “dear green place,” as it was known) was founded some 1,500 years ago. Legend has it that the king of Strathclyde, irate about his wife’s infidelity, had a ring he had given her thrown into the river Clyde. (Apparently she had passed it on to an admirer.) When the king demanded to know where the ring had gone, the distraught queen asked the advice of her confessor, St. Mungo. He suggested fishing for it—and the first salmon to emerge had the ring in its mouth. The moment is commemorated on the city’s coat of arms.The medieval city expanded when it was given a royal license to trade; the current High Street was the main thoroughfare at the time. The vast profits from American cotton and tobacco built the grand mansions of the Merchant City in the 18th century. In the 19th century the river Clyde became the center of a vibrant shipbuilding industry, fed by the city’s iron and steel works. The city grew again, but its internal divisions grew at the same time. The West End harbored the elegant homes of the newly rich shipyard owners. Down by the river, areas like the infamous Gorbals, with its crowded slums, sheltered the laborers who built the ships. They came from the Highlands, expelled to make way for sheep, or from Ireland, where the potato famines drove thousands from their homes.During the 19th century the population grew from 80,000 to more than a million. And the new prosperity gave Glasgow its grand neoclassical buildings, such as those built by Alexander “Greek” Thomson, as well as the adventurous visionary buildings designed by Charles Rennie Mackintosh and others who produced Glasgow’s Arts and Crafts movement. The City Chambers, built in 1888, are a proud statement in marble and gold sandstone, a clear symbol of the wealthy and powerful Victorian industrialists’ hopes for the future.The decline of shipbuilding and the closure of the factories led to much speculation as to what direction the city would take now. The curious thing is that, at least in part, the past gave the city a new lease of life. It was as if people looked at their city and saw Glasgow’s beauty for the first time: its extraordinarily rich architectural heritage, its leafy parks, its artistic heritage, and its complex social history. Today Glasgow is a vibrant cultural center and a commercial hub, as well as a launching pad from which to explore the rest of Scotland, which, as it turns out, is not so far away. In fact, it takes only 40 minutes to reach Loch Lomond, where the other Scotland begins.

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A titan of culture and character, with a disarmingly warm welcome, Glasgow is a lively, Scottish city with bucket-loads of personality. Built on a bedrock of hard-work, and deep industrial roots, the city is a fascinating balance of old and new. Architectural treasures like the elegant Glasgow City Chambers of 1888 blend with new, angular shocks like the Riverside Museum and armadillo-shaped Clyde Auditorium – both part of a clutch of exciting new developments along the River Clyde’s banks. Also towering over the river – and perhaps Glasgow’s mightiest symbol – is the Titan – a colossal crane and an almighty reminder of Glasgow’s heritage as a constructor of giant battleships and cruise liners. It is far from a grey industrial city these days, however, and leafy parks, manicured gardens and stacked galleries douse the city with its colour and cultural intrigue. George Square is at the heart of it all, overlooked by Glasgow City Chambers and adorned with memorials, columns and statues honouring influential Scots and Prime Ministers of history. The sounds of shoppers and searing bagpipes rattle along the bustling Buchanan Street, where you can stroll and shop to your heart’s content. Stumble across the West End – Glasgow’s quirkier side – which is brimming with brightly painted cafes and pubs of character and characters, and the perfect spot for a sit-down. Glasgow’s Medieval Cathedral is the city’s oldest building and one of Scotland’s oldest cathedrals, while the university is an immaculate, turreted and vaulted temple of learning. With enormous concert halls, overflowing museums and storied castles, Glasgow is one of the United Kingdom’s most characterful, rewarding cities.

Cork City’s nearby harbor district has seen plenty of history. Cork Harbour’s draws include Fota Island—with an arboretum, a wildlife park, and the Fota House ancestral estate—and the fishing port of Cobh.

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The picturesque little seaside town of Cobh, pronounced Cove, has a magnificent natural harbour, the second largest in the world. This contributed to Cobh’s connection with some of the worlds most famous ships.Of all the passenger ships that sailed from here though, the most notorious must be the Titanic, Cobh being her final port of call. Not surprisingly there are plenty of memorials to the ship in town including the not to be missed is the Titanic Experience. Through interactive experiences, visitors get the chance to experience life on board the ship and to discover more about the passengers who made that ill-fated voyage.Back when the town was called Queenstown from 1849 – 1920, over 2.5 million people emigrated from Ireland through Cobh port. Some were heading to start new lives in North America, some involuntarily as convicts and others escaping famine. The Cobh Heritage Centre tells the moving stories of how these Irish people became scattered around the globe.Spike Island, just a short ferry ride away is Irelands version of Alcatraz. Over 1300 years old, the star shaped fortress later had the dubious honour of being the world’s largest prison. Daytime and spooky nighttime tours are possible for those who dare.Cobh is an extremely walkable town, down on the waterfront are some of the best views of the town. Brightly coloured houses and friendly pubs, meander up the hilly street, drawing the eye to the towns focal point, the impressive St Colman’s Cathedral towering above.

The bustle of this resort town’s fishing harbor, yachting center, and commercial port only adds to its charm. In the 18th century Falmouth was the main mail-boat port for North America, and in Flushing, a village across the inlet, you can see the slate-covered houses built by prosperous mail-boat captains. A ferry service now links the two towns. On Custom House Quay, off Arwenack Street, is the King’s Pipe, an oven in which seized contraband was burned.

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The bustle of this resort town’s fishing harbor, yachting center, and commercial port only adds to its charm. In the 18th century Falmouth was the main mail-boat port for North America, and in Flushing, a village across the inlet, you can see the slate-covered houses built by prosperous mail-boat captains. A ferry service now links the two towns. On Custom House Quay, off Arwenack Street, is the King’s Pipe, an oven in which seized contraband was burned.

Cobblestone streets, blooming floral displays, and tiny churches welcome you to this wonderfully pretty harbour. The town of St Peter Port is as pretty as they come, with glowing flower displays painting practically every street corner and window-ledge with colour. As the capital, and main port of Guernsey, St Peter Port puts all of the island’s gorgeous beaches, wonderful history and inspiring stories at your fingertips. Feel the gut punch of the midday gun firing at Castle Cornet, which stands guard over one of the world’s prettiest ports. This 800-year-old, Medieval castle offers staggering views of the harbour from its imposing, craggy island location, and you can look out across to the looming shorelines of the other Channel Islands from its weathered battlements. With four well-tended gardens, and five museums offering a rich overview of Guernsey’s history, you’ll want to leave a few hours aside to explore the many treasures that lie within the castle’s walls.

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The picturesque capital of Guernsey proves that you don’t have to go to the Caribbean for white sand and crystal clear water. St Peter Port is both wonderfully pretty and atmospheric, full of blooming floral displays, tiny stone churches and brightly painted boats. What’s more, summers are mostly sunny and comfortable, making the weather something you don’t have to worry about.As the capital of Guernsey, St. Peter Port is where the “action” is found. This mainly takes the form of strolling the cobbled streets, stopping every now and then to admire, and perhaps photograph, the stunning views. Once French (original name: St. Pierre Port), the town is at least 800 years old, with the stone castle and maze like streets to prove it. Once you have made you way up to the ancient castle, make like a local and find refreshment with a cream tea, washed down perhaps with a glass of cider!If the weather is on your side, then surely there is no more invigorating pastime than hiking up to the spectacular Guernsey cliffs, taking in stunning views of wildflowers, sandy beaches and English Channel views. For those who want to spread their wings a little further, the tiny island of Herm is just a 20-minute boat ride away, and homes no cars, one pub, a few cows, some puffins and about 50 people.Don’t be fooled by St Peter Port’s nostalgic exterior. The seaside town has made a name for itself as a foodie heaven, with everything from beach huts to Michelin starred restaurants offering sumptuous, locally sourced fare.

Lying near the head of Southampton Water, a peninsula between the estuaries of the Rivers Test and Itchen, Southampton is Britain’s largest cruise port. It has been one of England’s major ports since the Middle Ages, when it exported wool and hides from the hinterland and imported wine from Bordeaux. The city suffered heavy damage during World War Two and as a result the centre has been extensively rebuilt, but there are still some interesting medieval buildings including the Bargate, one of the finest city gatehouses in England.

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Home of the ill-fated Titanic departure, Southampton has a long maritime history. Henry V’s fleet bound for the battle of Agincourt left from here, as did the Mayflower (not from Plymouth as many believe) and the great British ocean liners, Queen Elizabeth 2 and Queen Mary both departed on their maiden voyages from the port. So suffice to say, that Southampton is a seafearing place.Today Southampton is the cruise capital of Northern Europe, so expect a city that understands how to have fun. This comes in a variety of ways: a castellated old city that has lots of charm, some excellent museums (the most notable of which is the Sea City Museum) and extensive green spaces. Authentic Tudor remains provide a fascinating insight to 15th century living while other landmarks date back even further. A stroll around the city is generous in its attractions, so there is no better way to see Southampton than on foot. Culture wise, the city’s bustling Guildhall Square is the centre for art, education and food and drink.Southampton’s location of the south coast of England means just a short distance away lie some interesting spots. Pre-historic enigma Stonehenge is less than an hour away while the quintessentially English market town Salisbury is perfect for a bit of shopping. Both are well worth a visit. For those who prefer their entertainment crafted by Mother Nature, a short ride to the New Forest will give you peace; think idyllic glades, ancient woodland, open moors, heathland and cliff top walks.